What's the worst bass you ever owned?

Question:

> My worst bass is an Ibanez Destroyer.  Bought it in the 80’s because I > wanted to look cool in the hair band I was in at the time.  Look cool > is all I did, because this thing was a piece of shit and sounded > accordingly.  My $75 Bradley Steinberger copy sounds better than it > did.  I took it to a pawnshop and traded it for a necklace for my > wife.  Best thing I ever did with it.

Ibanez BTB 5-string…  I’ve since been told that I must’ve had a lemon, but there weren’t too many places on that neck where it didn’t buzz.  I took it to my local luthier and he tried all sorts of tricks to help, but the only thing left was to remove the frets, sand the fretboard and then refret it. I sold it… I might add also that the Neutrick jack was bad – every cable I tried slid around and created a storm of static.  Since it was under warranty, I contacted Ibanez and was told that "Neutrick jacks are never defective…" Okay???  Now what?  Well, after several phone calls, I got really p*ssed and wrote a nasty letter.  Then I blanket mailed it (with CC info) to every Ibanez facility on the planet:  West Coast; their PA offices; Japan… Approximately 15 copies addressed to various people… In about two weeks, I received a new jack and an Ibanez T-shirt in the mail. I had to pay to have the jack installed. So, Ibanez not only was my worst bass, it was also my worst experience dealing with a manufacturer of musical instruments. But I’m not bitter… Cheers, Mark

Response:

> The neck was as fat as a telephone pole cut in half, and it was heavier than > a pickup truck full of red necks heading to Sizzler.

LOL!! Sounds like the ‘89 Warwick Thumb 5 neckthrough I owned.  I think it was made out of petrified bubinga. I haven’t really had any bad basses, ever.  Except for my dad’s bass that I started out on.. it was a generic bass, with a generic metal covered pickup, with a crusty volume and tone pot and mile high action.. and flatwounds.  I spray painted it green for some reason. Jordan

Response:

An Eko EB0 copy. Pure crap.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Damn that’s a hard one…"worst" or "most dissappionting"? If it was the > lattter I’d have to say any number of Hofner’s I’ve owned and really tried hard > to like but just couldn’t.

Response:

I take that back.  My Aunt and Uncle owned a rental property and when the tenets moved out they left a Peavey T-40(?) behind.  They kindly offered it to me.  When I finally met up with my them they had huge smiles on their faces as the handed over this *free* bass with a neck so warped it was better suited for an archery range.  I smiled politely and said thanks as "What the …?" went through my head.  The strings were insanely tight. They had no idea that anything was wrong with the bass.  I loosened the strings all the way and let it sit for about a week.  I couldn’t take looking at that horribly warped neck anymore so pitched it into a dumpster. Bud

Response:

Gibson Grabber or might have been the hofner violin… the hofner wouldn’t stay in tune and the gibson was poorly finished…

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My worst bass is an Ibanez Destroyer.  Bought it in the 80’s because I > wanted to look cool in the hair band I was in at the time.  Look cool > is all I did, because this thing was a piece of shit and sounded > accordingly.  My $75 Bradley Steinberger copy sounds better than it > did.  I took it to a pawnshop and traded it for a necklace for my > wife.  Best thing I ever did with it.

Response:

I sure am enjoying these stories of your crappy basses.  Makes me feel like I got off light with my Ibanez Destroyer.  At least it looked cool and had a neck that was playable.  BTW, I will second the notion that Ibanez has the absolute worst customer service in the world.  I have had to deal with them twice, and the person on the other end was a complete asshole the first time making it sound like it was my fault that the bass wasn’t working properly.  The second time I got someone else who promised to send me a wiring diagram and never did.  SO even though I have played many nice Ibanez basses, I will never ever buy one again and I totally recommend that nobody else buys one either. I will take a lawsuit Rick or Jazz if anyone’s giving them away, though

Response:

A Bently P-bass copy that I received as a gift.  It weighed a ton, and the neck was so warped that it was impossible to get the strings to within a playable distance of the fretboard.  The electronics were shot and the nut was destroyed.  As it was my first bass, I didn’t know any of this and painfully learned to play on it.  I also learned how to solder and file a proper nut. Eventually some fool stole it, and I ended up buying a bass that didn’t hurt to play.  It was quite a revelation!

Response:

> This one. > http://tinyurl.com/f31v > That’s not the one I owned but is one just like it.  I bought mine in > 1972 off the captain of our high school wrestling team and tried to > impress girls with it.  I was not successful. > Kept it until I bought my first real bass – a spiffy new ‘75 Precision. > The Univox sucked but I still loved it.

I wish I still had my Hofner bass. No offense intended, but it was tons better looking than the one in your picture. Trying to play American rock and roll on it was a bit of a bummer. But it rocked on the English rock tunes of the era. Ed Cregger

Response:

> I wish I still had my Hofner bass. > No offense intended, but it was tons better looking than the one in > your > picture. > Trying to play American rock and roll on it was a bit of a bummer. > But it > rocked on the English rock tunes of the era.

No offense taken, Ed – that’s not a Hofner, it’s a cheap Univox copy. It was kinda ugly but I only paid $50 for it in 1972. Played like a $50 bass, too  ;-)

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I don’t think I ever bought a Bass I hated. > When I started playing I didn’t know any better, and nowadays I take the > attitude that just about ALL basses (and guitars) have something they do > well and it is up to the player to find and exploit it. > I’ve had a few that I fell out of love with fairly rapidly (notably every > Rickenbacker I ever owned) but even those I only unloaded to make money for > their replacements. > Probably the Basses I liked the least were the Rickenbackers and a Gibson G3 > I had. But they weren’t actually bad basses – they just turned out to be not > my "thing". > Thump

Like you, I never owned a bass that I hated. I guess the worst bass experience I ever had was when I had to use my brother’s Sears (Danelectro) super long scale bass for a few months in the late sixties. I came right from playing a Hofner violin shaped bass with a short scale, to my brother’s poorly finished 6×2" neck equipped alleged bass guitar. It sounded so good when my brother played it, that it really did a number on my ego. Later, after I had my own bass again, I asked to borrow it once to go deer hunting. I figured it would be a great arrow launcher, and if I got close enough to the deer, I could always beat it to death with the bass. My brother was not amused, but he did serve venison later that week… Ed Cregger

Response:

My first bass was the worst.  A big red Kingston hollow body short scale that was in the shape of Rickenbacker guitar (not bass).  Super high action that was never able to be corrected even after two visits to the repair shop.  Second worst was a Fender Bullet bass that I hacked on.  I installed Jackson P-bass replacement pickup.   It sounded terrible. Big thick neck.  Yuk. Bud

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My worst bass is an Ibanez Destroyer.  Bought it in the 80’s because I > wanted to look cool in the hair band I was in at the time.  Look cool > is all I did, because this thing was a piece of shit and sounded > accordingly.  My $75 Bradley Steinberger copy sounds better than it > did.  I took it to a pawnshop and traded it for a necklace for my > wife.  Best thing I ever did with it.

Response:

Mid-80’s Yamaha Motion Bass. Short or Med. scale, I can’t remember – total piece of shit. Couldn’t get a tone out of it to save my soul. I was playing with a rock cover band at the time – Doobies, Wings, Huey Lewis, S&G, that kind of stuff. There was no way to mod this thing without routing etc. Traded it for a Squier Jazz ….. I know, I know, what a step up.

Response:

A friend gave me a Hondo P-bass with a snapped truss rod. Completely unplayable. I could fit my hand between the strings and the neck. Worst bass I ever bought was an ESP B-1. Sounded fine in the store, but was crap at a gig. I gigged with it once and returned it. I also briefly had an Epiphone EB-0. Bought it just for rehearsals, but hated it even for that. My band’s site: www.strongerthandirt.com

Response:

> My worst bass is an Ibanez Destroyer.  Bought it in the 80’s because I > wanted to look cool in the hair band I was in at the time.  Look cool > is all I did, because this thing was a piece of shit and sounded > accordingly.  My $75 Bradley Steinberger copy sounds better than it > did.  I took it to a pawnshop and traded it for a necklace for my > wife.  Best thing I ever did with it.

First bass I owned was a Westone Spectrum II (I think). Cheapest bass in the shop. Horrible.

Response:

Mine was a Squier P, 5 string. Really crappy pickups, and the B was pretty weak. Wes – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Without a doubt, a Guild B-302.  Bought it new for $375 which took a lot of > mowing lawns to save.  I was a stupid young kid, there was only 1 music store > within walking/bus distance and it was the first bass I played with roundwound > strings.  My first bass was a Carlo Robelli [Ibanez] copy of a Rickenbacker > which was a great bass.  The only thing I didn’t like about it was the sound > and feel [WAIT].  What I realized was the cause was that when I bought it, I > thought rough strings would be painful so I bought a set of Rotosound heavy > flats which I found very difficult.  When I played the Guild, it had light > roundwounds which I found easy and loved the piano-like tone so I assumed it > was a better bass.  I traded the Rick copy that I bought at that store for > $150.  [As an aside, they gave me $115 for it and later re-sold it for $175 > which really pissed me off after the way he told me it was not worth much and > he'd be lucky to get what I last paid for it--not a way to get a future sale > from me].  So I get the Guild home.  Put my strap on [calm down] and watch the > neck dive to the ground.  Worst balance ever.  Next, I notice how the pickups > pickup every little finger noise and I mean EVERY.  In fact, I could literally > talk into it and hear myself as if it was a microphone.  I’ve never encountered > such microphonic pickups since.  It even picked up radio stations.  Then I > notice that I can literally put a deep gouge in the wood with my finger nail as > if the wood was balsa (which may explain part of the neck-dive; more on this). > Then I notice that I’m getting shocks and that static electricity is building > up on the back of the body.  I live with this crap for a few weeks (it was not > easy getting this to the store myself) as the neck develops a nice bow making > it impossible to play.  I bring it back and they adjust the rod.  I watched and > didn’t know this was bad at the time but they turned it a few full turns until > it was max’ed.  I said I was not happy with it and asked that it be sent to > Guild.  When it came back, I was told that’s the best they could do.  So, bad > balance, microphonic pickups, static that not only shocks me but crackles and > pops through my amp as the bass rubs against my shirt (this was in Summer > too–humid), a warped neck and a light soft wood body.  A few weeks later, when > pulling the cord out of the bass, the entire pickguard assembly came with it > and every little screw went flying across my floor (17 of ‘em if I recall). > What the hell kind of wood did I get?  Needless to say after getting no > satisfaction from the dealer or Guild, I dumped it at a huge loss with masking > tape holding the pickguard on.  Funny but a few years later, I played an > identical Guild (used) at Sam Ash now that I was old enough to take the train > alone.  The wood was much heavier and more solid so I must have had a really > inferior piece of wood. Too bad Guild would not stand behind it.

Response:

Without a doubt, a Guild B-302.  Bought it new for $375 which took a lot of mowing lawns to save.  I was a stupid young kid, there was only 1 music store within walking/bus distance and it was the first bass I played with roundwound strings.  My first bass was a Carlo Robelli [Ibanez] copy of a Rickenbacker which was a great bass.  The only thing I didn’t like about it was the sound and feel [WAIT].  What I realized was the cause was that when I bought it, I thought rough strings would be painful so I bought a set of Rotosound heavy flats which I found very difficult.  When I played the Guild, it had light roundwounds which I found easy and loved the piano-like tone so I assumed it was a better bass.  I traded the Rick copy that I bought at that store for $150.  [As an aside, they gave me $115 for it and later re-sold it for $175 which really pissed me off after the way he told me it was not worth much and he'd be lucky to get what I last paid for it--not a way to get a future sale from me].  So I get the Guild home.  Put my strap on [calm down] and watch the neck dive to the ground.  Worst balance ever.  Next, I notice how the pickups pickup every little finger noise and I mean EVERY.  In fact, I could literally talk into it and hear myself as if it was a microphone.  I’ve never encountered such microphonic pickups since.  It even picked up radio stations.  Then I notice that I can literally put a deep gouge in the wood with my finger nail as if the wood was balsa (which may explain part of the neck-dive; more on this). Then I notice that I’m getting shocks and that static electricity is building up on the back of the body.  I live with this crap for a few weeks (it was not easy getting this to the store myself) as the neck develops a nice bow making it impossible to play.  I bring it back and they adjust the rod.  I watched and didn’t know this was bad at the time but they turned it a few full turns until it was max’ed.  I said I was not happy with it and asked that it be sent to Guild.  When it came back, I was told that’s the best they could do.  So, bad balance, microphonic pickups, static that not only shocks me but crackles and pops through my amp as the bass rubs against my shirt (this was in Summer too–humid), a warped neck and a light soft wood body.  A few weeks later, when pulling the cord out of the bass, the entire pickguard assembly came with it and every little screw went flying across my floor (17 of ‘em if I recall). What the hell kind of wood did I get?  Needless to say after getting no satisfaction from the dealer or Guild, I dumped it at a huge loss with masking tape holding the pickguard on.  Funny but a few years later, I played an identical Guild (used) at Sam Ash now that I was old enough to take the train alone.  The wood was much heavier and more solid so I must have had a really inferior piece of wood. Too bad Guild would not stand behind it.

Response:

I don’t think I ever bought a Bass I hated. When I started playing I didn’t know any better, and nowadays I take the attitude that just about ALL basses (and guitars) have something they do well and it is up to the player to find and exploit it. I’ve had a few that I fell out of love with fairly rapidly (notably every Rickenbacker I ever owned) but even those I only unloaded to make money for their replacements. Probably the Basses I liked the least were the Rickenbackers and a Gibson G3 I had. But they weren’t actually bad basses – they just turned out to be not my "thing". Thump

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My worst bass is an Ibanez Destroyer.  Bought it in the 80’s because I > wanted to look cool in the hair band I was in at the time.  Look cool > is all I did, because this thing was a piece of shit and sounded > accordingly.  My $75 Bradley Steinberger copy sounds better than it > did.  I took it to a pawnshop and traded it for a necklace for my > wife.  Best thing I ever did with it.

Response:

> My worst bass is an Ibanez Destroyer.  Bought it in the 80’s because I > wanted to look cool in the hair band I was in at the time.  Look cool > is all I did, because this thing was a piece of shit and sounded > accordingly.  My $75 Bradley Steinberger copy sounds better than it > did.  I took it to a pawnshop and traded it for a necklace for my > wife.  Best thing I ever did with it.

Hah! You got off light. It would have to be my first bass. A plank of wood-chip composite, roughly hacked into a P shape, with a P pickup and a neck bolted on. Of course, the plank weighed a ton, and the composite couldn’t handle the tension, so the action was like almost 3/4 of an inch on the 12th fret. And I had to replace the neck screws because the board was stripping. But I did learn to play on that piece of crap. The most disappointing was a Washburn XB400 I got for my 21st Bday. I loved it it was pretty, it had TWO pickups instead of one… (my previous bass, wno replaced the plank, was a yamaha rbx p-copy… great bass) had active electronics… but soo afterwars I noticed it was really heavy, and the electronics wouldn’t sound like anything but shit unless the bass and the treble were maxed out. SO I was basically left with one tone (three if you count panning and that one tone wasn’t all that good, all bass and treble but no mid-bite. — Javier Gonzalez Nicolini – remove the .com to e-mail " "I don’t think so," said Rene Descartes.  Just then, he vanished.

Response:

This one. http://tinyurl.com/f31v That’s not the one I owned but is one just like it.  I bought mine in 1972 off the captain of our high school wrestling team and tried to impress girls with it.  I was not successful. Kept it until I bought my first real bass – a spiffy new ‘75 Precision. The Univox sucked but I still loved it.

Response:

> Damn that’s a hard one…"worst" or "most dissappionting"? If it was the > lattter I’d have to say any number of Hofner’s I’ve owned and really tried hard > to like but just couldn’t.

I can agree with that! I’ve never owned a Hofner (and never would), a friend of mine has one that’s his pride and joy. He proudly showed it to me and let me play it. YUK! It was far and away heads above any other bass I’ve ever met as the WORST bass in the world. ZERO sustain. Horrible tone. Cheapie parts. To this day I have NO idea why he thought that was such a wonderful instrument. {he did stress how light it was a lot!} As for "owned" mine was a Kingston P bass copy I got at an Amateur Radio flea market. At the time I was a newbie who was playing a short scale Kingston (which I still have, by the way), but the P bass was the pits. Fret buzz up the wazoo, bad tone, shoddy construction, PLUS I had to repair it FIRST to even play it. Eventually, it became a computer experiment. I took the neck apart and soldered a wire to each fret that came out in a large ribbon cable. The idea was to use the frets and strings to make "cross-point" switches to sense which note was being played to drive a synth. The synth would then track the volume of the plucked note. Cool idea, right? Wrong! I forgot that if TWO strings touch a fret it makes this path from one to the other and you get these "ghost" notes (Notes which play but are not actually fingered) appearing. Sigh! It’s still somewhere down in my guitar junk bin. Benj — Due to SPAM innundation above address is turned off!

Response:

A Cort Steinberger copy in the early ’80s. Uncomfortable to sit with. Uncomfortable to stand with. The neck twisted within weeks. Sounded thin. Wouldn’t tune. Paid full retail price for it used. Thinking about it makes me feel like a moron all over again. On the other hand the ‘76 pre, ‘78 Musicman, ‘59 Pre, Jerry Jones Longhorn, Tokai Jazz Bass (the lawsuit model), Westone Rail (I don’t care what anyone says it was great!), ‘84 – ‘57 re-issue Pre (that I still have), the mighty Azola Decobass (I also still have) and a few other good ones have kinda taken the edge off. jeffb

Response:

Damn that’s a hard one…"worst" or "most dissappionting"? If it was the lattter I’d have to say any number of Hofner’s I’ve owned and really tried hard to like but just couldn’t.

Response:

The only bass I’ve ever sold. My ‘77-78ish P bass. I bought it for $450 in the early 90’s and only kept it for a couple years. The neck was as fat as a telephone pole cut in half, and it was heavier than a pickup truck full of red necks heading to Sizzler. It sounded as fat as it was, but by the end of the 1st set with it, I was almost completely hunched over with the bass touching the stage. It was absolutely mint when I got it. I swapped the bridge to (believe it or not) a heavier one and later traded it on something I can’t even remember, but I broke even. I do miss it though, especially when I check how much they sell for now. Jay S

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My worst bass is an Ibanez Destroyer.  Bought it in the 80’s because I > wanted to look cool in the hair band I was in at the time.  Look cool > is all I did, because this thing was a piece of shit and sounded > accordingly.  My $75 Bradley Steinberger copy sounds better than it > did.  I took it to a pawnshop and traded it for a necklace for my > wife.  Best thing I ever did with it.

Response:

My worst bass is an Ibanez Destroyer.  Bought it in the 80’s because I wanted to look cool in the hair band I was in at the time.  Look cool is all I did, because this thing was a piece of shit and sounded accordingly.  My $75 Bradley Steinberger copy sounds better than it did.  I took it to a pawnshop and traded it for a necklace for my wife.  Best thing I ever did with it.

Response:

Hate to say it, but it was my ‘84(I think) Fender Elite P Bass. Bought it new from a local music store; I busted my ass washing dishes for a year to get that baby. It was my only bass for almost 10 years because I didn’t have the money to get another one. First off, The neck was as thick as a tree trunk, even for a P Bass. But what did I know? I sucked back then, so all basses were difficult for me to play. Second, it had the standard ’80’s active preamp technology, with tons of hi mid (and no way to get rid of it) that buzzed like a chainsaw. Also, it seems the preamp was VERY  touchy –  it was impossible for me to go from fingerstyle to slap without turning down the bass’ volume by at least half, and I was constantly  having to tweak volume levels on everything else. And it ate batteries like they were candy, even though I unplugged it between every set. Third, the damn recessed jack kept falling out and/or breaking, usually on a gig. Replaced it with a football jack which helped slightly. Last, and the final straw –   it developed  the dreaded "S-curve". Traded it to a music dealer who didn’t know any better and never looked back. Much like a first love,  it has a lot of sentimental value and good memories, even though the reality was rather shitty. — Learning funk bass? visit www.js3jazz.com/store.htm "Speaking the Truth in times of Universal deceit is a revolutionary act." — George Orwell

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My worst bass is an Ibanez Destroyer.  Bought it in the 80’s because I > wanted to look cool in the hair band I was in at the time.  Look cool > is all I did, because this thing was a piece of shit and sounded > accordingly.  My $75 Bradley Steinberger copy sounds better than it > did.  I took it to a pawnshop and traded it for a necklace for my > wife.  Best thing I ever did with it.

Response:

Adjusting the truss rod question

Question:

> Presuming the bass was set up right at one time, the most common causes of > too much relief are a variation in climactic conditions, in which case it > won’t buzz at the high frets, or if the player put heavier strings on, same > deal.

Absolutely.  You and I agree on that.  However, the original poster was experiencing buzz at the high frets.

Response:

> Presuming the bass was set up right at one time, the most common causes of > too much relief are a variation in climactic conditions, in which case it > won’t buzz at the high frets, or if the player put heavier strings on, > same > deal. > Absolutely.  You and I agree on that.  However, the original poster was > experiencing buzz at the high frets.

Exactly.

Response:

> "When you get fret buzz at the high frets, that’s an indication that your > neck has too much bow (relief).  You need to tighten the truss rod some." > and I thought Frank ought to try raising the saddles instead. > Raising the saddles when the relief is too great may eliminate the buzz, but > at the expense of making the action so high as to be unplayable.

Presuming the bass was set up right at one time, the most common causes of too much relief are a variation in climactic conditions, in which case it won’t buzz at the high frets, or if the player put heavier strings on, same deal.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > If neck has too much relief and strings are too low, buzz will appear > high > > on the neck. > Which is what always happens, as I said above. > "When you get fret buzz at the high frets, that’s an indication that your > neck has too much bow (relief).  You need to tighten the truss rod some." > and I thought Frank ought to try raising the saddles instead.

Not usually. If one part of the neck buzzes and another doesn’t, that is an idication the truss rod isn’t adusted properly. True, raising the action would probably minimize this, but it will have the effect that when you play harder, the high frets will buzz, and the bottom frets won’t. Also, rasing the action might be a problem for someone who is used to the action being lower.

Response:

> "When you get fret buzz at the high frets, that’s an indication that your > neck has too much bow (relief).  You need to tighten the truss rod some." > and I thought Frank ought to try raising the saddles instead.

Raising the saddles when the relief is too great may eliminate the buzz, but at the expense of making the action so high as to be unplayable.  Over the years, this has been one of the most common situations described in this forum.  When there’s too much relief, it causes the action to be too high in the middle of the neck, but right at the end of the neck, it’s low again, because the side view of the neck is like an archery bow.  To get the action low enough at the middle of the neck, you have to lower the saddles to the point where they are almost touching the neck at the tail end.  If the player complains of fret buzz at the tail end of the neck, and you ask if the saddles are almost bottomed out, the answer is almost always, "Yes". Vice-versa, if the player complains that the saddles are bottomed out but the action’s still too high:  "Do you get fret buzz at the tail end of the neck?"  "Yes."  Never seems to fail.  Basses always come from the factory with too much relief, and a lot of players don’t even know that it can be adjusted, they only think of raising the saddles.  A lot of players are just plain afraid to touch the truss rod, so they raise the saddles.  So, you get the archery effect.  Correcting action and playability problems has to start with proper neck relief, you always do that first.

Response:

>>>What does "um" mean, anyway? >It means he’s not trying to jump in your face like some 1/2 wit. >Cautiously addressing something… > Awwright, look, you — just because we’ve already got one guy named Dr. > Smartass in this group doesn’t mean I can’t be one, too.  As a matter of > fact, I’ll be a half-wit smartass.

That was actually a reference to a different "true half-wit" poster who pretends to post to worng news groups.  :-) —    O< (.) (.) /()    ^^

Response:

> Call MusicMakers on South Lamar and ask for Ohlee (O-Lee). > I have a vintage bass and I noticed a buzz on the higher frets.  When > I sight down the neck I notice that it is bowed.  It looks to me like > I need to adjust the truss rod.  My question is… do I do this with > the strings on and tensioned or with the strings off? > Also does anyone have the name/phone number of a good bass guitar > technician in Austin, TX?  I may want to have someone else give the > bass a going over to get it set up properly. > Thanks for any advice. > Frank

Thanks for everyone’s advice.  I guess we’ve all been here before… Frank

Response:

> > What does "um" mean, anyway? > It means he’s not trying to jump in your face like some 1/2 wit. > Cautiously addressing something…

Awwright, look, you — just because we’ve already got one guy named Dr. Smartass in this group doesn’t mean I can’t be one, too.  As a matter of fact, I’ll be a half-wit smartass.

Response:

Okay, no ums this time. > If neck has too much relief and strings are too high, there will be no buzz > anywhere.

But, this never happens, because the player will not tolerate the extremely high action this creates.  The player will instinctively lower the saddles to lower the action.  If there’s too much relief, the player can never get the saddles low enough to get the action he wants — but, the end result will be that there will be fret buzz, and it will come from the highest end of the neck.  This happens all the time, as demonstrated by the common posts here — "I’ve got my saddles bottomed all the way out against the bridge, but my action’s still too high."  Too much neck relief. > If neck has too much relief and strings are too low, buzz will appear high > on the neck.

Which is what always happens, as I said above. > If neck has correct relief and strings are too low, buzz will appear high on > the neck.

No, the buzz will be all over the neck. > If neck has insufficient relief and strings are too high, buzz appears

low. No, if there’s too little relief, the buzz will be at the lower frets, even if the strings are at the correct height. > If neck has insufficient relief and strings are too low, notes totally choke > out.

This is what happens here in Wisconsin every spring, as the humidity rises after the dry winter.  You take out a bass after it’s been sitting a while, and all the strings are plastered flat against the frets.

Response:

> If neck has too much relief and strings are too low, buzz will appear high > on the neck. > Which is what always happens, as I said above.

"When you get fret buzz at the high frets, that’s an indication that your neck has too much bow (relief).  You need to tighten the truss rod some." and I thought Frank ought to try raising the saddles instead.

Response:

I have a vintage bass and I noticed a buzz on the higher frets.  When I sight down the neck I notice that it is bowed.  It looks to me like I need to adjust the truss rod.  My question is… do I do this with the strings on and tensioned or with the strings off? Also does anyone have the name/phone number of a good bass guitar technician in Austin, TX?  I may want to have someone else give the bass a going over to get it set up properly. Thanks for any advice. Frank

Response:

>I have a vintage bass and I noticed a buzz on the higher frets.  When >I sight down the neck I notice that it is bowed.  It looks to me like >I need to adjust the truss rod.  My question is… do I do this with >the strings on and tensioned or with the strings off? >Also does anyone have the name/phone number of a good bass guitar >technician in Austin, TX?  I may want to have someone else give the >bass a going over to get it set up properly. >Thanks for any advice. >Frank

Keith and Robert at The Custom Shop, right around the corner from Ray Hennig’s, do good work. They handle basses and guitars, but they’re bassists first from what I hear. Most of the stores around town have someone who can do this, but the Custom Shop’s been around for awhile. Check ‘em out here: http://bassland.home.texas.net Since it’s vintage (and likely worth alot), I’d give strong consideration to having a pro do this, ESPECIALLY if you’ve never done it before.

Response:

> I have a vintage bass and I noticed a buzz on the higher frets.  When > I sight down the neck I notice that it is bowed.  It looks to me like > I need to adjust the truss rod.  My question is… do I do this with > the strings on and tensioned or with the strings off?

Depends.  With some vintage basses, you have to remove the neck to adjust the truss rod, so… With basses where you can access the truss rod without removing the body, you usually leave the tension on.  If you are flattening the neck, and the nut is pretty stiff, you should loosen the strings to see if it helps.  If it’s a vintage Rickenbacker, I believe you move the neck by external (hand) pressure, then tighten the nut when you have the preferred bow achieved. For more info: http://www.altguitarbass.com/faq.asp#Setup http://members.rogers.com/dbl-bass/setups.htm http://archive.bassplayer.com/gear/specs.shtml http://www.mrgearhead.net/faq/basssetup.html http://garywillis.com/pages/bass/bassmanual/setupmanual.html http://www.geocities.com/Hollywood/6203/page33.html http://www.harmony-central.com/Bass/setups.txt http://sadowsky.com/media/pdf/technical/bp0999_bass_setup.pdf http://www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/ElectricGuitarRepair.htm If you’re unsure, find a pro. —    O> /()    ^^

Response:

I always release the string pressure and adjust about a quarter turn at a time.  It is not hard to overadjust and put a back bow in the neck.  A back bow is sometimes impossible to get out without removing or sliding the fretboard, a real bummer and expensive.  I only remove the neck if there is no other way to get at the trussrod. Kirk

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a vintage bass and I noticed a buzz on the higher frets.  When > I sight down the neck I notice that it is bowed.  It looks to me like > I need to adjust the truss rod.  My question is… do I do this with > the strings on and tensioned or with the strings off? > Also does anyone have the name/phone number of a good bass guitar > technician in Austin, TX?  I may want to have someone else give the > bass a going over to get it set up properly. > Thanks for any advice. > Frank

Response:

> I have a vintage bass and I noticed a buzz on the higher frets.  When > I sight down the neck I notice that it is bowed.  It looks to me like > I need to adjust the truss rod.  My question is… do I do this with > the strings on and tensioned or with the strings off?

When you get fret buzz at the high frets, that’s an indication that your neck has too much bow (relief).  You need to tighten the truss rod some. Makes no difference if you do it with the strings on and tensioned or not (in my experience), but if you make the adjustment with the strings tensioned, be sure to re-tune the bass before checking the relief again. Make your adjustments in quarter-turn increments, and check after each adjustment.

Response:

> When you get fret buzz at the high frets, that’s an indication > that your neck has too much bow (relief).

Um, actually I think it means your saddles are too low.

Response:

> > When you get fret buzz at the high frets, that’s an indication > that your neck has too much bow (relief). > Um, actually I think it means your saddles are too low.

Um, when you have the correct relief in your neck, if the saddles are too low, you will get fret buzz uniformly across the entire neck.  Um, if the relief is too little, or is even negative, then you get buzz at the head end of the neck.  Um, if the relief is too great, you will have to lower your saddles way down, sometimes bottomed all the way out.  Um, if your saddles are all the way down, and your action is still too high, it means you have too much neck relief.  Um, if that is the case, and you adjust your neck relief properly, you will have to raise your saddles, because the strings will be lying flat on the neck. What does "um" mean, anyway?

Response:

Call MusicMakers on South Lamar and ask for Ohlee (O-Lee).

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a vintage bass and I noticed a buzz on the higher frets.  When > I sight down the neck I notice that it is bowed.  It looks to me like > I need to adjust the truss rod.  My question is… do I do this with > the strings on and tensioned or with the strings off? > Also does anyone have the name/phone number of a good bass guitar > technician in Austin, TX?  I may want to have someone else give the > bass a going over to get it set up properly. > Thanks for any advice. > Frank

Response:

> > When you get fret buzz at the high frets, that’s an indication > > that your neck has too much bow (relief). > Um, actually I think it means your saddles are too low. > Um, when you have the correct relief in your neck, if the saddles are too > low, you will get fret buzz uniformly across the entire neck.

No. If everything is set right when playing harder than normal, buzz is uniform. If neck has too much relief and strings are too high, there will be no buzz anywhere. If neck has too much relief and strings are too low, buzz will appear high on the neck. If neck has correct relief and strings are too low, buzz will appear high on the neck. If neck has insufficient relief and strings are too high, buzz appears low. If neck has insufficient relief and strings are too low, notes totally choke out.

Response:

> What does "um" mean, anyway?

It means he’s not trying to jump in your face like some 1/2 wit. Cautiously addressing something… —    O> /()    ^^

Response:

online archery in UE

Question:

 Hi! I want to know if you know of any good online archery shops in the UE.  not UK since they still don

Peter S. Saly

Question:

Peter S. Saly is an incontinent LOSER that cannot exist without causing disharmony where ever he is.  He’s not happy unless everybody is as miserable as he is.  He’s no archer – ask him what tournament he ever shot in – the answer is none.  He’s pissed off so many people in his twisted life that he doesn’t dare go shoot at an archery shot because someone there might have an accidental release. To see how despised and reviled he is in EVERY usenet group he has ever been in (and man are there a lot) use http://groups.google.com  and look up (search) on Peter Saly.  Notice that there are over 77,500 hits returned ’cause Petey has a LOT of people angry with him, and ALL of them that do not have him as the sender are essentially announcing what is already very obvious from his posts up here.  He is a dilettante of archery, having been run out of cooking, home improvements, canadian, psychology, gardening, cooking, and numerous other groups. You know he has to be sick – he’s even been run out of the psychotherapy group. LOL He gets his jollies by arguing and belittling anyone that disagrees with him – it is a pathological thing with him – some people are congenital liars – PeterGirl is congenitally male genital-less and has to pick fights until everybody gets wise and puts a filter on so they can ignore his rantings.  He gets incredibly foul.  Even the French Canadian and the Belgium groups curse him. He seems to think he can freely insult people and never expects someone to knock on his door in Minneapolis and smack him in his ugly mug.  He’s around 40, he was shunned by all of his associates in Canada. Now he  lives off of his parents and a disability check in Minneapolis. Leaching off of your parents is  a damn shame as it is, but moving to the same city just to wait for them to die is sickening. Petey needs to learn how to earn his own money and not wait to inherit his existance from his poor parent’s years of accomplishments and hard work. The best thing everyone here can do is SHUN him.  Don’t respond – its torture to him to not be able to get a rise out of anyone here.   Or just reply to his post with the one most accurate word to describe him.  LOSER. — This post was anonymized at http://www.xganon.com —

Response:

> <snip drivel>.. > — > This post was anonymized at http://www.xganon.com > —

And that is why you are posting anonymously..     Because you are so full of courage and conviction……. Oh well..     The cowards keep slandering from behind the wall..

Response:

> > <snip drivel>.. > — > This post was anonymized at http://www.xganon.com > — > And that is why you are posting anonymously.. >     Because you are so full of courage and conviction……. > Oh well.. >     The cowards keep slandering from behind the wall..

<sigh> If it will *really* make you feel better I can call you a loser to your face … just pop an open First Class airline ticket in the post and I’ll be there Hope this helps HooDooWitch

Response:

> Hope this helps

It would help more if you’d take your childish plays elsewhere, preferably to your personal e-mails. ICCL MA

Response:

> Hope this helps > It would help more if you’d take your childish plays elsewhere, > preferably to your personal e-mails. > ICCL > MA

He (HooDooWitch) is just having a bit of innocent fun..     Get a clue, and unclench….. If there is anyone with whom you should have a bone to pick, it’s the little anus-nymous drone, who opbviously got so badly spanked some time back, that he’s reduced to this mode of attack to salve what passes for an ego.. ..

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > <snip drivel>.. > > — > > This post was anonymized at http://www.xganon.com > > — > And that is why you are posting anonymously.. >     Because you are so full of courage and conviction……. > Oh well.. >     The cowards keep slandering from behind the wall.. > <sigh> > If it will *really* make you feel better I can call you a loser to your face > > … just pop an open First Class airline ticket in the post and I’ll be > there > Hope this helps > HooDooWitch

Be man enough to assume responsibility for your choixes yourself.     Pop for your ticket yourself….

Response:

> Hope this helps > It would help more if you’d take your childish plays elsewhere, > preferably to your personal e-mails. > ICCL

Is that better? HooDooWitch

Response:

> Is that better?

Yup. MA

Response:

string question

Question:

Hello all.  I’m new to the group and haven’t seen a FAQ listing anywhere; so I hope this doesn’t bother any of you too much.  I have just purchased a nice older bow sans string.  I’m interested in making OR buying a few strings for this bow. I don’t know the draw height yet.  It’s a recurve; 45xx# 62".  Is this enough info to determine a good length for the string?  As this is an older bow, I’m interested in making a string with linen; what material should I use for serving the string? Thanxs in advance!! Chris

Response:

| Hello all.  I’m new to the group and haven’t seen a FAQ listing anywhere; | so I hope this doesn’t bother any of you too much.  I have just purchased | a nice older bow sans string.  I’m interested in making OR buying a few | strings for this bow. | | I don’t know the draw height yet.  It’s a recurve; 45xx# 62".  Is this | enough info to determine a good length for the string?  As this is an | older bow, I’m interested in making a string with linen; what | material should I use for serving the string? | Hum. *How* old? Be careful when shooting it for the first time, if it has any stress fractures etc, the first time you shoot, a limb could snap and take your nuts off… Im not sure about making a string out of linen, its not really my scene, but for an older bow I would suspect a fairly thick dacron string would be strong (and slow) enough to do the job. As for the length of said string, given the info Im not sure, I’d hazard a guess, the first 2 numbers indicate the draw weight [in inches], and the last two numbers indicate the bow length [in pounds]. I could be wrong, so use this advice at your own risk. Regards Ewan — Ewan Oughton [0143324] 2nd Year B.Sc. Comp. Sys. http://www.10xshot.com — Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

finished up at a measured 43#. The 62" is more than likely the AMO length of the bow; I’d put a tape measure to it to make sure. One thing that can be determined, is that bow is very likely 30-40 years old, and as such, I agree that it wouldn’t be the wisest thing in the world to string it up and shoot it. You are very correct; It may become discombobulated in a spectacular and possibly hazardous manner…

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > | Hello all.  I’m new to the group and haven’t seen a FAQ listing anywhere; > | so I hope this doesn’t bother any of you too much.  I have just purchased > | a nice older bow sans string.  I’m interested in making OR buying a few > | strings for this bow. > | > | I don’t know the draw height yet.  It’s a recurve; 45xx# 62".  Is this > | enough info to determine a good length for the string?  As this is an > | older bow, I’m interested in making a string with linen; what > | material should I use for serving the string? > | > Hum. *How* old? > Be careful when shooting it for the first time, if it has any stress > fractures etc, the first time you shoot, a limb could snap and take your > nuts off… > Im not sure about making a string out of linen, its not really my scene, but > for an older bow I would suspect a fairly thick dacron string would be > strong (and slow) enough to do the job. > As for the length of said string, given the info Im not sure, I’d hazard a > guess, the first 2 numbers indicate the draw weight [in inches], and the > last two numbers indicate the bow length [in pounds]. I could be wrong, so > use this advice at your own risk. > Regards > Ewan > — > Ewan Oughton [0143324] > 2nd Year B.Sc. Comp. Sys. > http://www.10xshot.com > — > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

> Be careful when shooting it for the first time, if it has any stress > fractures etc, the first time you shoot, a limb could snap and take your > nuts off… > Im not sure about making a string out of linen, its not really my scene, but > for an older bow I would suspect a fairly thick dacron string would be > strong (and slow) enough to do the job.

Making strings is fun but has it’s hazards.  Friend and I made a Kevlar string for his old Jennings.  Time involved was a 6 pack of beer. Unfortunately when we went in my yard to test it, he accidently dry-fired and the anchor on the bow’s cable broke! Fortunately there were 2 weeks til bow season and he got it fixed in time. For the matter at hand, I believe Dacron has lower modulus than linen and would be more forgiving.  Any serving material should do.  I believe my server has nylon in it. Frank

Response:

> Making strings is fun but has it’s hazards. > Unfortunately when we went in my yard to test it, he accidently dry-fired > and the anchor on the bow’s cable broke!

How does making strings and dry-firing connect? MA

Response:

> Making strings is fun but has it’s hazards. > Unfortunately when we went in my yard to test it, he accidently > dry-fired > and the anchor on the bow’s cable broke! > How does making strings and dry-firing connect?

They don’t but adds color to my comments.  Also going back to the incident, my friend’s bow may not have broken if the string was Dacron.  High modulus fibers such as Kevlar and Spectran are not recommended for bows built with lower modulus strings in mind. Frank

Response:

through a six-pack of beer? > Making strings is fun but has it’s hazards. > Unfortunately when we went in my yard to test it, he accidently > dry-fired > and the anchor on the bow’s cable broke! > How does making strings and dry-firing connect? > MA

– TexARC publicize the sport of Archery!  http://www.texasarchery.org and put your name in body of message.

Response:

> through a six-pack of beer?

Better response than mine.  Also recall they were 16 ounce cans.  Clyde never could hold his liquor Frank

Response:

Assuming a 45 lb. 62" bow make the string 59". Good shooting, — David Stites Mount Vernon, WA

| | Hello all.  I’m new to the group and haven’t seen a FAQ listing anywhere; | | so I hope this doesn’t bother any of you too much.  I have just purchased | | a nice older bow sans string.  I’m interested in making OR buying a few | | strings for this bow. | | | | I don’t know the draw height yet.  It’s a recurve; 45xx# 62".  Is this | | enough info to determine a good length for the string?  As this is an | | older bow, I’m interested in making a string with linen; what | | material should I use for serving the string? | | | | | Hum. *How* old? | | Be careful when shooting it for the first time, if it has any stress | fractures etc, the first time you shoot, a limb could snap and take your | nuts off… | | Im not sure about making a string out of linen, its not really my scene, but | for an older bow I would suspect a fairly thick dacron string would be | strong (and slow) enough to do the job. | | As for the length of said string, given the info Im not sure, I’d hazard a | guess, the first 2 numbers indicate the draw weight [in inches], and the | last two numbers indicate the bow length [in pounds]. I could be wrong, so | use this advice at your own risk. | | | Regards | | Ewan | | | — | Ewan Oughton [0143324] | 2nd Year B.Sc. Comp. Sys. | http://www.10xshot.com | | | — | Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. | Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). | | Posted Via Uncensored-News.Com – Still Only $9.95 – http://www.uncensored-news.com       <><><><><><><>   The Worlds Uncensored News Source   <><><><><><><><>

Response:

have you tried twine yet fred? Sam

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > > hey ho, > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > anyone have any suggestions? > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > > any others? > > f > —

> "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

I also recommend the DR Sunbeams.  They’ve got a great brightness to them and they really do last. –Winston TK

Response:

not yet, but, its on my list… f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> have you tried twine yet fred? > Sam > actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will > sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like > LaBella Slappers, > > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll > mess with a > > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to > find too. > > Ric > > > hey ho, > > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with > good results. > > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > > anyone have any suggestions? > > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund > nickels though. > > > any others? > > > f > > — > > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" > >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > > Ric Williams

Response:

Locally. Atomic Music in College Park, MD Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >where’d ya get them? >f > The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go >on > one of the fretlesses next. > Brad > >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? > >thanks > >fred > >> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith >Burners > >that > >> I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > >> Brad > >> >hey ho, > >> >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > >> >i’d like to try another nickel set… > >> >anyone have any suggestions? > >> >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > >> >any others?

Response:

where’d ya get them? f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go on > one of the fretlesses next. > Brad >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? >thanks >fred >> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners >that >> I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. >> Brad >> >hey ho, >> >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >> >i’d like to try another nickel set… >> >anyone have any suggestions? >> >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >> >any others?

Response:

The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go on one of the fretlesses next. Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? >thanks >fred > They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners >that > I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > Brad > >hey ho, > >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > >i’d like to try another nickel set… > >anyone have any suggestions? > >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > >any others?

Response:

Yeah, I just wasn’t sure if the tapered winding might ad another variable if the taper falls in the sensing area. I guess that, at worst, you might have to adjust the signal level for any string that was affected. Ric – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > > hey ho, > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > anyone have any suggestions? > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > > any others? > > f > — > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

– "You’re on a first name basis with lucidity, little friend. I have to call him ‘Mr. Lucidity’. "     — The Tick Ric Williams

Response:

actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY material. thanks for the info. f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f > — > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

Response:

I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. Ric > hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f

– "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?"   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 Ric Williams

Response:

they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? thanks fred

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners that > I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > Brad >hey ho, >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >i’d like to try another nickel set… >anyone have any suggestions? >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >any others?

Response:

I second the sunbeams suggestion – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f > Lo-rider nickels are nice. Also like DR Sunbeams for their slightly > softer feel.

Response:

hey ho, i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. i’d like to try another nickel set… anyone have any suggestions? i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. any others? f

Response:

They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners that I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >hey ho, >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >i’d like to try another nickel set… >anyone have any suggestions? >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >any others?

Response:

> hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f

Lo-rider nickels are nice. Also like DR Sunbeams for their slightly softer feel.

Response:

have you tried twine yet fred? Sam

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > > hey ho, > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > anyone have any suggestions? > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > > any others? > > f > —

> "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

I also recommend the DR Sunbeams.  They’ve got a great brightness to them and they really do last. –Winston TK

Response:

not yet, but, its on my list… f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> have you tried twine yet fred? > Sam > actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will > sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like > LaBella Slappers, > > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll > mess with a > > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to > find too. > > Ric > > > hey ho, > > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with > good results. > > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > > anyone have any suggestions? > > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund > nickels though. > > > any others? > > > f > > — > > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" > >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > > Ric Williams

Response:

Locally. Atomic Music in College Park, MD Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >where’d ya get them? >f > The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go >on > one of the fretlesses next. > Brad > >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? > >thanks > >fred > >> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith >Burners > >that > >> I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > >> Brad > >> >hey ho, > >> >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > >> >i’d like to try another nickel set… > >> >anyone have any suggestions? > >> >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > >> >any others?

Response:

where’d ya get them? f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go on > one of the fretlesses next. > Brad >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? >thanks >fred >> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners >that >> I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. >> Brad >> >hey ho, >> >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >> >i’d like to try another nickel set… >> >anyone have any suggestions? >> >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >> >any others?

Response:

The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go on one of the fretlesses next. Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? >thanks >fred > They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners >that > I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > Brad > >hey ho, > >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > >i’d like to try another nickel set… > >anyone have any suggestions? > >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > >any others?

Response:

Yeah, I just wasn’t sure if the tapered winding might ad another variable if the taper falls in the sensing area. I guess that, at worst, you might have to adjust the signal level for any string that was affected. Ric – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > > hey ho, > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > anyone have any suggestions? > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > > any others? > > f > — > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

– "You’re on a first name basis with lucidity, little friend. I have to call him ‘Mr. Lucidity’. "     — The Tick Ric Williams

Response:

actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY material. thanks for the info. f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f > — > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

Response:

I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. Ric > hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f

– "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?"   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 Ric Williams

Response:

they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? thanks fred

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners that > I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > Brad >hey ho, >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >i’d like to try another nickel set… >anyone have any suggestions? >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >any others?

Response:

I second the sunbeams suggestion – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f > Lo-rider nickels are nice. Also like DR Sunbeams for their slightly > softer feel.

Response:

hey ho, i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. i’d like to try another nickel set… anyone have any suggestions? i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. any others? f

Response:

They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners that I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >hey ho, >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >i’d like to try another nickel set… >anyone have any suggestions? >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >any others?

Response:

> hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f

Lo-rider nickels are nice. Also like DR Sunbeams for their slightly softer feel.

Response:

have you tried twine yet fred? Sam

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > > hey ho, > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > anyone have any suggestions? > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > > any others? > > f > —

> "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

I also recommend the DR Sunbeams.  They’ve got a great brightness to them and they really do last. –Winston TK

Response:

not yet, but, its on my list… f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> have you tried twine yet fred? > Sam > actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will > sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like > LaBella Slappers, > > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll > mess with a > > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to > find too. > > Ric > > > hey ho, > > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with > good results. > > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > > anyone have any suggestions? > > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund > nickels though. > > > any others? > > > f > > — > > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" > >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > > Ric Williams

Response:

Locally. Atomic Music in College Park, MD Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >where’d ya get them? >f > The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go >on > one of the fretlesses next. > Brad > >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? > >thanks > >fred > >> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith >Burners > >that > >> I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > >> Brad > >> >hey ho, > >> >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > >> >i’d like to try another nickel set… > >> >anyone have any suggestions? > >> >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > >> >any others?

Response:

where’d ya get them? f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go on > one of the fretlesses next. > Brad >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? >thanks >fred >> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners >that >> I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. >> Brad >> >hey ho, >> >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >> >i’d like to try another nickel set… >> >anyone have any suggestions? >> >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >> >any others?

Response:

The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go on one of the fretlesses next. Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? >thanks >fred > They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners >that > I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > Brad > >hey ho, > >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > >i’d like to try another nickel set… > >anyone have any suggestions? > >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > >any others?

Response:

Yeah, I just wasn’t sure if the tapered winding might ad another variable if the taper falls in the sensing area. I guess that, at worst, you might have to adjust the signal level for any string that was affected. Ric – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > > hey ho, > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > anyone have any suggestions? > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > > any others? > > f > — > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

– "You’re on a first name basis with lucidity, little friend. I have to call him ‘Mr. Lucidity’. "     — The Tick Ric Williams

Response:

actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY material. thanks for the info. f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f > — > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

Response:

I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. Ric > hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f

– "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?"   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 Ric Williams

Response:

they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? thanks fred

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners that > I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > Brad >hey ho, >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >i’d like to try another nickel set… >anyone have any suggestions? >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >any others?

Response:

I second the sunbeams suggestion – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f > Lo-rider nickels are nice. Also like DR Sunbeams for their slightly > softer feel.

Response:

hey ho, i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. i’d like to try another nickel set… anyone have any suggestions? i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. any others? f

Response:

They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners that I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >hey ho, >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >i’d like to try another nickel set… >anyone have any suggestions? >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >any others?

Response:

> hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f

Lo-rider nickels are nice. Also like DR Sunbeams for their slightly softer feel.

Response:

have you tried twine yet fred? Sam

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > > hey ho, > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > anyone have any suggestions? > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > > any others? > > f > —

> "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

I also recommend the DR Sunbeams.  They’ve got a great brightness to them and they really do last. –Winston TK

Response:

not yet, but, its on my list… f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> have you tried twine yet fred? > Sam > actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will > sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like > LaBella Slappers, > > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll > mess with a > > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to > find too. > > Ric > > > hey ho, > > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with > good results. > > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > > anyone have any suggestions? > > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund > nickels though. > > > any others? > > > f > > — > > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" > >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > > Ric Williams

Response:

Locally. Atomic Music in College Park, MD Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >where’d ya get them? >f > The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go >on > one of the fretlesses next. > Brad > >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? > >thanks > >fred > >> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith >Burners > >that > >> I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > >> Brad > >> >hey ho, > >> >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > >> >i’d like to try another nickel set… > >> >anyone have any suggestions? > >> >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > >> >any others?

Response:

where’d ya get them? f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go on > one of the fretlesses next. > Brad >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? >thanks >fred >> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners >that >> I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. >> Brad >> >hey ho, >> >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >> >i’d like to try another nickel set… >> >anyone have any suggestions? >> >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >> >any others?

Response:

The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go on one of the fretlesses next. Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? >thanks >fred > They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners >that > I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > Brad > >hey ho, > >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > >i’d like to try another nickel set… > >anyone have any suggestions? > >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > >any others?

Response:

Yeah, I just wasn’t sure if the tapered winding might ad another variable if the taper falls in the sensing area. I guess that, at worst, you might have to adjust the signal level for any string that was affected. Ric – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > > hey ho, > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > anyone have any suggestions? > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > > any others? > > f > — > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

– "You’re on a first name basis with lucidity, little friend. I have to call him ‘Mr. Lucidity’. "     — The Tick Ric Williams

Response:

actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY material. thanks for the info. f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f > — > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

Response:

I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. Ric > hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f

– "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?"   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 Ric Williams

Response:

they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? thanks fred

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners that > I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > Brad >hey ho, >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >i’d like to try another nickel set… >anyone have any suggestions? >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >any others?

Response:

I second the sunbeams suggestion – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f > Lo-rider nickels are nice. Also like DR Sunbeams for their slightly > softer feel.

Response:

hey ho, i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. i’d like to try another nickel set… anyone have any suggestions? i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. any others? f

Response:

They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners that I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >hey ho, >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >i’d like to try another nickel set… >anyone have any suggestions? >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >any others?

Response:

> hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f

Lo-rider nickels are nice. Also like DR Sunbeams for their slightly softer feel.

Response:

have you tried twine yet fred? Sam

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > > hey ho, > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > anyone have any suggestions? > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > > any others? > > f > —

> "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

I also recommend the DR Sunbeams.  They’ve got a great brightness to them and they really do last. –Winston TK

Response:

not yet, but, its on my list… f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> have you tried twine yet fred? > Sam > actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will > sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like > LaBella Slappers, > > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll > mess with a > > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to > find too. > > Ric > > > hey ho, > > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with > good results. > > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > > anyone have any suggestions? > > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund > nickels though. > > > any others? > > > f > > — > > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" > >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > > Ric Williams

Response:

Locally. Atomic Music in College Park, MD Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >where’d ya get them? >f > The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go >on > one of the fretlesses next. > Brad > >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? > >thanks > >fred > >> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith >Burners > >that > >> I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > >> Brad > >> >hey ho, > >> >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > >> >i’d like to try another nickel set… > >> >anyone have any suggestions? > >> >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > >> >any others?

Response:

where’d ya get them? f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go on > one of the fretlesses next. > Brad >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? >thanks >fred >> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners >that >> I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. >> Brad >> >hey ho, >> >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >> >i’d like to try another nickel set… >> >anyone have any suggestions? >> >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >> >any others?

Response:

The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go on one of the fretlesses next. Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? >thanks >fred > They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners >that > I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > Brad > >hey ho, > >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > >i’d like to try another nickel set… > >anyone have any suggestions? > >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > >any others?

Response:

Yeah, I just wasn’t sure if the tapered winding might ad another variable if the taper falls in the sensing area. I guess that, at worst, you might have to adjust the signal level for any string that was affected. Ric – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > > hey ho, > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > anyone have any suggestions? > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > > any others? > > f > — > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

– "You’re on a first name basis with lucidity, little friend. I have to call him ‘Mr. Lucidity’. "     — The Tick Ric Williams

Response:

actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY material. thanks for the info. f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f > — > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

Response:

I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. Ric > hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f

– "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?"   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 Ric Williams

Response:

they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? thanks fred

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners that > I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > Brad >hey ho, >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >i’d like to try another nickel set… >anyone have any suggestions? >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >any others?

Response:

I second the sunbeams suggestion – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f > Lo-rider nickels are nice. Also like DR Sunbeams for their slightly > softer feel.

Response:

hey ho, i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. i’d like to try another nickel set… anyone have any suggestions? i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. any others? f

Response:

They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners that I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >hey ho, >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >i’d like to try another nickel set… >anyone have any suggestions? >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >any others?

Response:

> hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f

Lo-rider nickels are nice. Also like DR Sunbeams for their slightly softer feel.

Response:

have you tried twine yet fred? Sam

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > > hey ho, > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > anyone have any suggestions? > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > > any others? > > f > —

> "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

I also recommend the DR Sunbeams.  They’ve got a great brightness to them and they really do last. –Winston TK

Response:

not yet, but, its on my list… f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> have you tried twine yet fred? > Sam > actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will > sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like > LaBella Slappers, > > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll > mess with a > > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to > find too. > > Ric > > > hey ho, > > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with > good results. > > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > > anyone have any suggestions? > > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund > nickels though. > > > any others? > > > f > > — > > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" > >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > > Ric Williams

Response:

Locally. Atomic Music in College Park, MD Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >where’d ya get them? >f > The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go >on > one of the fretlesses next. > Brad > >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? > >thanks > >fred > >> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith >Burners > >that > >> I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > >> Brad > >> >hey ho, > >> >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > >> >i’d like to try another nickel set… > >> >anyone have any suggestions? > >> >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > >> >any others?

Response:

where’d ya get them? f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go on > one of the fretlesses next. > Brad >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? >thanks >fred >> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners >that >> I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. >> Brad >> >hey ho, >> >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >> >i’d like to try another nickel set… >> >anyone have any suggestions? >> >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >> >any others?

Response:

The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go on one of the fretlesses next. Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? >thanks >fred > They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners >that > I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > Brad > >hey ho, > >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > >i’d like to try another nickel set… > >anyone have any suggestions? > >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > >any others?

Response:

Yeah, I just wasn’t sure if the tapered winding might ad another variable if the taper falls in the sensing area. I guess that, at worst, you might have to adjust the signal level for any string that was affected. Ric – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > > hey ho, > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > anyone have any suggestions? > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > > any others? > > f > — > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

– "You’re on a first name basis with lucidity, little friend. I have to call him ‘Mr. Lucidity’. "     — The Tick Ric Williams

Response:

actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY material. thanks for the info. f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f > — > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

Response:

I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. Ric > hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f

– "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?"   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 Ric Williams

Response:

they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? thanks fred

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners that > I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > Brad >hey ho, >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >i’d like to try another nickel set… >anyone have any suggestions? >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >any others?

Response:

I second the sunbeams suggestion – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f > Lo-rider nickels are nice. Also like DR Sunbeams for their slightly > softer feel.

Response:

hey ho, i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. i’d like to try another nickel set… anyone have any suggestions? i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. any others? f

Response:

They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners that I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >hey ho, >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >i’d like to try another nickel set… >anyone have any suggestions? >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >any others?

Response:

> hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f

Lo-rider nickels are nice. Also like DR Sunbeams for their slightly softer feel.

Response:

have you tried twine yet fred? Sam

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > > hey ho, > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > anyone have any suggestions? > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > > any others? > > f > —

> "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

I also recommend the DR Sunbeams.  They’ve got a great brightness to them and they really do last. –Winston TK

Response:

not yet, but, its on my list… f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> have you tried twine yet fred? > Sam > actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will > sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like > LaBella Slappers, > > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll > mess with a > > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to > find too. > > Ric > > > hey ho, > > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with > good results. > > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > > anyone have any suggestions? > > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund > nickels though. > > > any others? > > > f > > — > > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" > >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > > Ric Williams

Response:

Locally. Atomic Music in College Park, MD Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >where’d ya get them? >f > The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go >on > one of the fretlesses next. > Brad > >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? > >thanks > >fred > >> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith >Burners > >that > >> I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > >> Brad > >> >hey ho, > >> >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > >> >i’d like to try another nickel set… > >> >anyone have any suggestions? > >> >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > >> >any others?

Response:

where’d ya get them? f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go on > one of the fretlesses next. > Brad >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? >thanks >fred >> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners >that >> I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. >> Brad >> >hey ho, >> >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >> >i’d like to try another nickel set… >> >anyone have any suggestions? >> >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >> >any others?

Response:

The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go on one of the fretlesses next. Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? >thanks >fred > They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners >that > I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > Brad > >hey ho, > >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > >i’d like to try another nickel set… > >anyone have any suggestions? > >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > >any others?

Response:

Yeah, I just wasn’t sure if the tapered winding might ad another variable if the taper falls in the sensing area. I guess that, at worst, you might have to adjust the signal level for any string that was affected. Ric – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > > hey ho, > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > anyone have any suggestions? > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > > any others? > > f > — > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

– "You’re on a first name basis with lucidity, little friend. I have to call him ‘Mr. Lucidity’. "     — The Tick Ric Williams

Response:

actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY material. thanks for the info. f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f > — > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

Response:

I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. Ric > hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f

– "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?"   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 Ric Williams

Response:

they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? thanks fred

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners that > I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > Brad >hey ho, >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >i’d like to try another nickel set… >anyone have any suggestions? >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >any others?

Response:

I second the sunbeams suggestion – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f > Lo-rider nickels are nice. Also like DR Sunbeams for their slightly > softer feel.

Response:

hey ho, i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. i’d like to try another nickel set… anyone have any suggestions? i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. any others? f

Response:

They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners that I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >hey ho, >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >i’d like to try another nickel set… >anyone have any suggestions? >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >any others?

Response:

> hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f

Lo-rider nickels are nice. Also like DR Sunbeams for their slightly softer feel.

Response:

have you tried twine yet fred? Sam

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > > hey ho, > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > anyone have any suggestions? > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > > any others? > > f > —

> "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

I also recommend the DR Sunbeams.  They’ve got a great brightness to them and they really do last. –Winston TK

Response:

not yet, but, its on my list… f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> have you tried twine yet fred? > Sam > actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will > sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like > LaBella Slappers, > > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll > mess with a > > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to > find too. > > Ric > > > hey ho, > > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with > good results. > > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > > anyone have any suggestions? > > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund > nickels though. > > > any others? > > > f > > — > > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" > >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > > Ric Williams

Response:

Locally. Atomic Music in College Park, MD Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >where’d ya get them? >f > The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go >on > one of the fretlesses next. > Brad > >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? > >thanks > >fred > >> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith >Burners > >that > >> I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > >> Brad > >> >hey ho, > >> >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > >> >i’d like to try another nickel set… > >> >anyone have any suggestions? > >> >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > >> >any others?

Response:

where’d ya get them? f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go on > one of the fretlesses next. > Brad >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? >thanks >fred >> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners >that >> I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. >> Brad >> >hey ho, >> >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >> >i’d like to try another nickel set… >> >anyone have any suggestions? >> >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >> >any others?

Response:

The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go on one of the fretlesses next. Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? >thanks >fred > They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners >that > I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > Brad > >hey ho, > >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > >i’d like to try another nickel set… > >anyone have any suggestions? > >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > >any others?

Response:

Yeah, I just wasn’t sure if the tapered winding might ad another variable if the taper falls in the sensing area. I guess that, at worst, you might have to adjust the signal level for any string that was affected. Ric – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > > hey ho, > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > anyone have any suggestions? > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > > any others? > > f > — > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

– "You’re on a first name basis with lucidity, little friend. I have to call him ‘Mr. Lucidity’. "     — The Tick Ric Williams

Response:

actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY material. thanks for the info. f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f > — > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

Response:

I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. Ric > hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f

– "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?"   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 Ric Williams

Response:

they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? thanks fred

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners that > I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > Brad >hey ho, >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >i’d like to try another nickel set… >anyone have any suggestions? >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >any others?

Response:

I second the sunbeams suggestion – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f > Lo-rider nickels are nice. Also like DR Sunbeams for their slightly > softer feel.

Response:

hey ho, i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. i’d like to try another nickel set… anyone have any suggestions? i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. any others? f

Response:

They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners that I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >hey ho, >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >i’d like to try another nickel set… >anyone have any suggestions? >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >any others?

Response:

> hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f

Lo-rider nickels are nice. Also like DR Sunbeams for their slightly softer feel.

Response:

GNAS Forum

Question:

Guys, Does anybody know why the GNAS Forum has been taken off-line suddenly…. I’ve read that nutters post below and went in for a look-see…but its dead now. David

Response:

WebBat typed the following message: > Does anybody know why the GNAS Forum has been taken off-line > suddenly….

Perhaps because the clown below who bitched and moaned about it so much, and kept posting messages to their forum which had nothing to do with archery, it is possible that it might have been deemed not feasible for the admin to keep it up. So instead of a forum which may (or may not) have had some problems, GNAS site viewers have *no* forum to use for the time being. I don’t blame the admin from pulling it. I would have done the same thing under similar circumstances. Too much trouble with all the pissing and moaning going on for it to be worthwhile.

Response:

Ron Reddon typed the following message: > I don’t blame the admin from > pulling it. I would have done the same thing under similar > circumstances. Too much trouble with all the pissing and moaning > going on for it to be worthwhile.

Actually, I think I’ll modify this statement of mine… If I were in charge of their site, I’d take the board offline for a short time, and then I’d drop an .htaccess file (simply a text file named .htaccess) into the forum directory on their Zeus/4.1 server containing the following: <Limit GET> order allow,deny deny from 213.122.174.          * (block by /24 block-256 addresses) deny from 213.122.174.158   * (block by single IP if it is static) allow from all </Limit> One would remove the stuff in parenthesis after the asterisk before placing in .htaccess file like this: <Limit GET> order allow,deny deny from 213.122.174. deny from 213.122.174.158 allow from all </Limit> This would keep Ian, Locke or ekcol or whatever name he morphed himself into, completely off the forum using selected IP address(es), but would allow the abuser to continue to access other parts of the website. This way, the "rude" keyword could be deleted, and would allow others to post without fear of having their posts zapped, and would give the site admin better administration over the forum abuser. Just in case *someone* (Neil?) who might be reading this board wants to know how to remove this type of abuser with a little more surgical precision…

Response:

Too late. The forum has now been "removed permanently due to sustained misuse". Interesting term, that, "misuse". I can’t ever recall a definition of it being supplied, but it seems to be "critiscism of the admin". So far as I can tell, there was only one person doing that… Unless it’s referring to the recent topics on the quality of coach training. But I can’t imagine how that could validly be labelled "misuse". It’s not as if anyone was saying anything which hadn’t been said before. At great length. On numerous electronic and print forums… ho hum. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Ron Reddon typed the following message: > I don’t blame the admin from > pulling it. I would have done the same thing under similar > circumstances. Too much trouble with all the pissing and moaning > going on for it to be worthwhile. > Actually, I think I’ll modify this statement of mine… If I were in > charge of their site, I’d take the board offline for a short time, and > then I’d drop an .htaccess file (simply a text file named .htaccess) > into the forum directory on their Zeus/4.1 server containing the > following: > <Limit GET> > order allow,deny > deny from 213.122.174.          * (block by /24 block-256 addresses) > deny from 213.122.174.158   * (block by single IP if it is static) > allow from all > </Limit> > One would remove the stuff in parenthesis after the asterisk before > placing in .htaccess file like this: > <Limit GET> > order allow,deny > deny from 213.122.174. > deny from 213.122.174.158 > allow from all > </Limit> > This would keep Ian, Locke or ekcol or whatever name he morphed > himself into, completely off the forum using selected IP address(es), > but would allow the abuser to continue to access other parts of the > website. This way, the "rude" keyword could be deleted, and would > allow others to post without fear of having their posts zapped, and > would give the site admin better administration over the forum abuser. > Just in case *someone* (Neil?) who might be reading this board wants > to know how to remove this type of abuser with a little more surgical > precision…

Response:

I note that the official GNAS online tournament diary has now been permanently removed too.  Is the entire GNAS site going to disappear shortly?  How can the society justify not having these things on their site when so many other people do?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Too late. The forum has now been "removed permanently due to sustained > misuse".

Response:

WebBat typed the following message: > I note that the official GNAS online tournament diary has now been > permanently removed too.  Is the entire GNAS site going to disappear > shortly?  How can the society justify not having these things on > their site when so many other people do?

I would surmise, the page has probably been removed, due to incorrect or abusive listings, perhaps put there by the whining little garden slug who came in here and bitched and moaned about their website. From the GNAS website: "The Online Tournament Diary has been permanently removed due to sustained misuse." Too bad… I’d say you can blame Locke, or whatever name it ended up under. It wouldn’t surprise me to find out that most of the bogus entries in that diary were put there by him/her/it, which destroyed any value it provided to the overall GNAS web site. I don’t blame the site administrator for gaining control of their website. Abuse a site like that, and poof, it quickly loses its beneficial value not only for the web admin or other users, but also for the entire organization altogether. AAMOF it fast becomes a serious liability for the larger organization as a whole, to have their organization’s site (its "global face" if you will) turned into an abuse-filled hostel. Pretty sad that those who consider themselves archers can’t comport themselves on an archery site in a demeanor that exalts the sport, rather than acting in a way that serves to demean it, and causes an entire organization to consider retreating off the web. I guess Locke got what he wanted. You might ask him/her/it, if it was worth it.

Response:

>Sorry to disappoint you guys, but I dont have a personal site, lots of >commercial ones….as I’m a mercenary and in it for the money ! >www.sofaworkshopdirect.co.uk >www.vivasofa.co.uk >www.volantia.com >www.argos.com >www.marksandspencer.com >www.bestofruralwales.com

are you asking us to critic your sites, who do you want us to send it to.. you, NAH,  better the owners!:>

Response:

>Sorry to disappoint you guys, but I dont have a personal site, lots of >commercial ones….as I’m a mercenary and in it for the money !

<snip> > are you asking us to critic your sites, who do you want us to send it to..

you, NAH,  better the owners!: Geez, take long enuff why dont you ? Oh no, you may mail someone I once worked for….. Grow up, man. D

Response:

Newbie Question: Bow Manufacturer?

Question:

I have a bow that was given to me by my father.  He bought it and had it painted camo.  Unfortunately, I’m not sure who the manufacturer is.  Has anyone heard of a OEM named "Yorx" or "Yorks" or something like it? Thanks in advance for any information. Guy

Response:

> I have a bow that was given to me by my father.  He bought it and had > it painted camo.  Unfortunately, I’m not sure who the manufacturer is. >  Has anyone heard of a OEM named "Yorx" or "Yorks" or something like > it? > Thanks in advance for any information. > Guy

York Archery was a manufacture since 1922 but I believe the company has been bought out or closed for the last  couple of years.

Response:

york

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a bow that was given to me by my father.  He bought it and had > it painted camo.  Unfortunately, I’m not sure who the manufacturer is. >  Has anyone heard of a OEM named "Yorx" or "Yorks" or something like > it? > Thanks in advance for any information. > Guy

Response:

And IF it is YORK they have been out of business for about 15 years or Bowdoctor http://communities.msn.com/archeryrepair

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> york > I have a bow that was given to me by my father.  He bought it and had > it painted camo.  Unfortunately, I’m not sure who the manufacturer is. >  Has anyone heard of a OEM named "Yorx" or "Yorks" or something like > it? > Thanks in advance for any information. > Guy

Response:

Peter S. (for SICK) Saly

Question:

>Must I post a link the piccie of your camel vagina face for all to see? Must >I post a link to your messages to you gay friends?

Twice: YES. SCNR :-> — Sven

Response:

> >Must I post a link the piccie of your camel vagina face for all to see? Must >I post a link to your messages to you gay friends? > Twice: YES. > SCNR :-> > — > Sven

Why Am I not surprised to see you respond..

Response:

>No matter.   Up here we know him for what he is.

Ron, it’s your call my friend but IMHO it’s best to put these people on a killfile and forget it. The best thing you can do with an errant child is to: (a) punish them. (b) set a good example for them to follow. Since we can’t do (a), I suggest (b) to be the best option. I understand your anger and desire to hit out, but chill mon ami, you are simply adding fuel to fire their personal pleasure. Life’s too short and there are WAY too many arrows to shoot. Last posting on the subject )

Response:

> By the way, I have been on usenet a lot longer that you by quite a few > yearsmore than your 2 years…

And yet you still top post? PLONK! — Marc T Shirts, Sweatshirts, polo shirts, banners, signs,decals, stickers etc for one make car clubs and sports clubs http://www.jaceeprint.demon.co.uk/

Response:

> By the way, I have been on usenet a lot longer that you by quite a few > yearsmore than your 2 years… > And yet you still top post? > PLONK!

Oh my…     The mutliple reasons that people get their knickers twisted are just amazing.. 1)    Where is it written that top-posting is an ABSOLUTE no-no ? 2)    I post in the same style as the person I am responding to. 3)    Pesonally, I think top-posting makes a LOT more sense than bottom posting in this medium.. But different strokes for different folk..

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Poor runny.. >     Why don’t you wipe your nose.. > Too bad that only one here trying to pick a fight is you.. > By the way, I can put your name in the header too… > And while we’re at it.. >     Weren’t you the twit who claimed that Zolan was my sock-puppet ? > We’re still waiting for an explanation as to how posters from England and > the US can share an IP node… > Or are you too busy enjoying your spanking to deal with FACTS that make > you > look silly ? > > What must someone like this sick Peter S. Saly be in real life?  He > > obviously is not an archer, and has no interest in archery, merely > > poses.  He must have to go from newsgroup to newsgroup, leaving each > > only when he has worn out his welcome and is no longer tolerated nor has > > any shred of credibility left.  He lurks a group for awhile, and picks > > up some nuances, enough so that he can continue being a POSER as he > > picks fights.    He tries to create an image of himself as being somehow > > autoritarian, in other words, worthy of respect, and each time he > > manages to convince all those in the newsgroup that he is > > inconveniencing that he is anything BUT worthy of their respect. Then, > > he moves on to another group in the broken record style of trying to > > achieve self-worth and self validation, only to fail each time. > > No matter.   Up here we know him for what he is. > > Loser. > Well you simple fuck, why don’t you stay in your mn and Canadian crappy > groups? > You are the same no matter where you go, upsetting the troops, having a bad > attitude and so on. > Must I post a link the piccie of your camel vagina face for all to see? Must > I post a link to your messages to you gay friends? > Must I post all the crap about you and your sorry ass old motorcycles and ve > hicles given to you by your ex-wife’s relatives because you cannot earn a > decent living? > Did you ever get a decent spell checker, or are you still claiming to be > brain damaged? > Face it, your a stupid fuk so leave the regs alone or I’ll have to start > dancing on your pinhead and messing with whatever mind you have left after > the last spnaking. > YEP! Your right, it is your Nemesis. And do not start on your little puppy > crap, I will show how you follow people around in the vain attempts to > occupy all that empty space between you BIG ears.

Well look what crawled out of the cesspit…     But thank you for demonstrating that you are still a sick little puppy trying to impress me.. The only one following people around here is you..     Too bad

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > Poor runny.. > >     Why don’t you wipe your nose.. > > Too bad that only one here trying to pick a fight is you.. > > By the way, I can put your name in the header too… > > And while we’re at it.. > >     Weren’t you the twit who claimed that Zolan was my sock-puppet ? > > We’re still waiting for an explanation as to how posters from England > and > > the US can share an IP node… > > Or are you too busy enjoying your spanking to deal with FACTS that make > you > > look silly ? > > > What must someone like this sick Peter S. Saly be in real life?  He > > > obviously is not an archer, and has no interest in archery, merely > > > poses.  He must have to go from newsgroup to newsgroup, leaving each > > > only when he has worn out his welcome and is no longer tolerated nor > has > > > any shred of credibility left.  He lurks a group for awhile, and picks > > > up some nuances, enough so that he can continue being a POSER as he > > > picks fights.    He tries to create an image of himself as being > somehow > > > autoritarian, in other words, worthy of respect, and each time he > > > manages to convince all those in the newsgroup that he is > > > inconveniencing that he is anything BUT worthy of their respect. > Then, > > > he moves on to another group in the broken record style of trying to > > > achieve self-worth and self validation, only to fail each time. > > > No matter.   Up here we know him for what he is. > > > Loser. > Well you simple fuck, why don’t you stay in your mn and Canadian crappy > groups? > You are the same no matter where you go, upsetting the troops, having a > bad > attitude and so on. > Must I post a link the piccie of your camel vagina face for all to see? > Must > I post a link to your messages to you gay friends? > Must I post all the crap about you and your sorry ass old motorcycles and > ve > hicles given to you by your ex-wife’s relatives because you cannot earn a > decent living? > Did you ever get a decent spell checker, or are you still claiming to be > brain damaged? > Face it, your a stupid fuk so leave the regs alone or I’ll have to start > dancing on your pinhead and messing with whatever mind you have left after > the last spnaking. > YEP! Your right, it is your Nemesis. And do not start on your little puppy > crap, I will show how you follow people around in the vain attempts to > occupy all that empty space between you BIG ears. > Well look what crawled out of the cesspit… >     But thank you for demonstrating that you are still a sick little puppy > trying to impress me.. > The only one following people around here is you.. >     Too bad

What’s the matter, cat got your tongue again, did you start sputtering and muttering already? Yup! Bet you just got some giant skid marks in your panties. cesspit? WTF is that! You already freaking out with your spelling errors? Wanna take it up in the correct group you lAAmEr wAnnAbe? and leave these fine folks alone? Face it, you claim to be a mountie, a special forces guy (Canadian) and EMT in NY, a rocket scientist, a ladies man, etc.You are nothing short of a f00l! A tr0ll with 4eyes! y3t you still can’t spell right. Lets go for it in the right group you short little freak!

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Poor runny.. >     Why don’t you wipe your nose.. > Too bad that only one here trying to pick a fight is you.. > By the way, I can put your name in the header too… > And while we’re at it.. >     Weren’t you the twit who claimed that Zolan was my sock-puppet ? > We’re still waiting for an explanation as to how posters from England and > the US can share an IP node… > Or are you too busy enjoying your spanking to deal with FACTS that make you > look silly ? > What must someone like this sick Peter S. Saly be in real life?  He > obviously is not an archer, and has no interest in archery, merely > poses.  He must have to go from newsgroup to newsgroup, leaving each > only when he has worn out his welcome and is no longer tolerated nor has > any shred of credibility left.  He lurks a group for awhile, and picks > up some nuances, enough so that he can continue being a POSER as he > picks fights.    He tries to create an image of himself as being somehow > autoritarian, in other words, worthy of respect, and each time he > manages to convince all those in the newsgroup that he is > inconveniencing that he is anything BUT worthy of their respect.   Then, > he moves on to another group in the broken record style of trying to > achieve self-worth and self validation, only to fail each time. > No matter.   Up here we know him for what he is. > Loser.

Well you simple fuck, why don’t you stay in your mn and Canadian crappy groups? You are the same no matter where you go, upsetting the troops, having a bad attitude and so on. Must I post a link the piccie of your camel vagina face for all to see? Must I post a link to your messages to you gay friends? Must I post all the crap about you and your sorry ass old motorcycles and ve hicles given to you by your ex-wife’s relatives because you cannot earn a decent living? Did you ever get a decent spell checker, or are you still claiming to be brain damaged? Face it, your a stupid fuk so leave the regs alone or I’ll have to start dancing on your pinhead and messing with whatever mind you have left after the last spnaking. YEP! Your right, it is your Nemesis. And do not start on your little puppy crap, I will show how you follow people around in the vain attempts to occupy all that empty space between you BIG ears.

Response:

What must someone like this sick Peter S. Saly be in real life?  He obviously is not an archer, and has no interest in archery, merely poses.  He must have to go from newsgroup to newsgroup, leaving each only when he has worn out his welcome and is no longer tolerated nor has any shred of credibility left.  He lurks a group for awhile, and picks up some nuances, enough so that he can continue being a POSER as he picks fights.    He tries to create an image of himself as being somehow autoritarian, in other words, worthy of respect, and each time he manages to convince all those in the newsgroup that he is inconveniencing that he is anything BUT worthy of their respect.   Then, he moves on to another group in the broken record style of trying to achieve self-worth and self validation, only to fail each time. No matter.   Up here we know him for what he is. Loser.

Response:

Poor runny..     Why don’t you wipe your nose.. Too bad that only one here trying to pick a fight is you.. By the way, I can put your name in the header too… And while we’re at it..     Weren’t you the twit who claimed that Zolan was my sock-puppet ? We’re still waiting for an explanation as to how posters from England and the US can share an IP node… Or are you too busy enjoying your spanking to deal with FACTS that make you look silly ?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> What must someone like this sick Peter S. Saly be in real life?  He > obviously is not an archer, and has no interest in archery, merely > poses.  He must have to go from newsgroup to newsgroup, leaving each > only when he has worn out his welcome and is no longer tolerated nor has > any shred of credibility left.  He lurks a group for awhile, and picks > up some nuances, enough so that he can continue being a POSER as he > picks fights.    He tries to create an image of himself as being somehow > autoritarian, in other words, worthy of respect, and each time he > manages to convince all those in the newsgroup that he is > inconveniencing that he is anything BUT worthy of their respect.   Then, > he moves on to another group in the broken record style of trying to > achieve self-worth and self validation, only to fail each time. > No matter.   Up here we know him for what he is. > Loser.

Response:

Let me me quote you runny…. == X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.78 [en] (Windows NT 5.0; U) == X-Accept-Language: en,pdf == MIME-Version: 1.0 == Newsgroups: rec.sport.archery == Xref: sn-us rec.sport.archery:30292 == == While I don’t have all that much experience or time as an archer, == I gather from listening to others that do and reading a lot, that: == ……<snip> Too bad your knowledge of usenet is even more limited that your knowledge of archery…. By the way, I have been on usenet a lot longer that you by quite a few yearsmore than your 2 years… But feel free to support your claims with EVIDENCE..     Until then you are nothing but a stupid little liar who doesn’t take to being spanked in public for being stupid…

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> What must someone like this sick Peter S. Saly be in real life?  He > obviously is not an archer, and has no interest in archery, merely > poses.  He must have to go from newsgroup to newsgroup, leaving each > only when he has worn out his welcome and is no longer tolerated nor has > any shred of credibility left.  He lurks a group for awhile, and picks > up some nuances, enough so that he can continue being a POSER as he > picks fights.    He tries to create an image of himself as being somehow > autoritarian, in other words, worthy of respect, and each time he > manages to convince all those in the newsgroup that he is > inconveniencing that he is anything BUT worthy of their respect.   Then, > he moves on to another group in the broken record style of trying to > achieve self-worth and self validation, only to fail each time. > No matter.   Up here we know him for what he is. > Loser.

Response:

LOSER. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Let me me quote you runny…. > == X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.78 [en] (Windows NT 5.0; U) > == X-Accept-Language: en,pdf > == MIME-Version: 1.0 > == Newsgroups: rec.sport.archery > == Xref: sn-us rec.sport.archery:30292 > == > == While I don’t have all that much experience or time as an archer, > == I gather from listening to others that do and reading a lot, that: > == ……<snip> > Too bad your knowledge of usenet is even more limited that your knowledge of > archery…. > By the way, I have been on usenet a lot longer that you by quite a few > yearsmore than your 2 years… > But feel free to support your claims with EVIDENCE.. >     Until then you are nothing but a stupid little liar who doesn’t take to > being spanked in public for being stupid… > What must someone like this sick Peter S. Saly be in real life?  He > obviously is not an archer, and has no interest in archery, merely > poses.  He must have to go from newsgroup to newsgroup, leaving each > only when he has worn out his welcome and is no longer tolerated nor has > any shred of credibility left.  He lurks a group for awhile, and picks > up some nuances, enough so that he can continue being a POSER as he > picks fights.    He tries to create an image of himself as being somehow > autoritarian, in other words, worthy of respect, and each time he > manages to convince all those in the newsgroup that he is > inconveniencing that he is anything BUT worthy of their respect.   Then, > he moves on to another group in the broken record style of trying to > achieve self-worth and self validation, only to fail each time. > No matter.   Up here we know him for what he is. > Loser.

– TexARC publicize the sport of Archery! http://www.texasarchery.org Outgoing messages scanned for viruses by Nortons AV 2002

Response:

To be called a loser by a snivelling whiny weenie like you can only be a compliment..

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> LOSER. > Let me me quote you runny…. > == X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.78 [en] (Windows NT 5.0; U) > == X-Accept-Language: en,pdf > == MIME-Version: 1.0 > == Newsgroups: rec.sport.archery > == Xref: sn-us rec.sport.archery:30292 > == > == While I don’t have all that much experience or time as an archer, > == I gather from listening to others that do and reading a lot, that: > == ……<snip> > Too bad your knowledge of usenet is even more limited that your knowledge of > archery…. > By the way, I have been on usenet a lot longer that you by quite a few > yearsmore than your 2 years… > But feel free to support your claims with EVIDENCE.. >     Until then you are nothing but a stupid little liar who doesn’t take to > being spanked in public for being stupid… > > What must someone like this sick Peter S. Saly be in real life?  He > > obviously is not an archer, and has no interest in archery, merely > > poses.  He must have to go from newsgroup to newsgroup, leaving each > > only when he has worn out his welcome and is no longer tolerated nor has > > any shred of credibility left.  He lurks a group for awhile, and picks > > up some nuances, enough so that he can continue being a POSER as he > > picks fights.    He tries to create an image of himself as being somehow > > autoritarian, in other words, worthy of respect, and each time he > > manages to convince all those in the newsgroup that he is > > inconveniencing that he is anything BUT worthy of their respect. Then, > > he moves on to another group in the broken record style of trying to > > achieve self-worth and self validation, only to fail each time. > > No matter.   Up here we know him for what he is. > > Loser. > — > TexARC > publicize the sport of Archery! > http://www.texasarchery.org > Outgoing messages scanned for viruses by Nortons AV 2002

Response:

Archery clubs in New Orleans area

Question:

Do you know of any archery clubs/classes in the New Orleans, LA area? Clifton Juan Harvey, Louisiana PH# & FAX#:  504-368-0694

Response:

For adult or for Junior (JOAD)? There is a link on the TSAA website that explains JOAD and helps find local chapters using the National Archery Association’s website link… http://texasarchery.org/L1/ClubsJOADs.htm and scroll down past the FAQ and other resources. For adults, best to check the yellow pages and call/ask the local archery shops… > Do you know of any archery clubs/classes in the New Orleans, LA area? > Clifton Juan > Harvey, Louisiana > PH# & FAX#:  504-368-0694

– TexARC publicize the sport of Archery! http://www.texasarchery.org Outgoing messages scanned for viruses by Nortons AV 2002

Response:

Check this link, the website of the Louisiana Field Archery Association. http://www.southwestla.com/lfaa/ That should help.

Response:

Copper John

Question:

Could anyone tell me where I could order the Copper John   Dead Nut Pro II. I live in Texas. Thanks

Response:

You might call www.lancasterarchery.com and ask Rob (owner) if he can get it. Norm

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Could anyone tell me where I could order the Copper John   Dead Nut Pro II. > I live in Texas. > Thanks

Response: