string question

Question:

Hello all.  I’m new to the group and haven’t seen a FAQ listing anywhere; so I hope this doesn’t bother any of you too much.  I have just purchased a nice older bow sans string.  I’m interested in making OR buying a few strings for this bow. I don’t know the draw height yet.  It’s a recurve; 45xx# 62".  Is this enough info to determine a good length for the string?  As this is an older bow, I’m interested in making a string with linen; what material should I use for serving the string? Thanxs in advance!! Chris

Response:

| Hello all.  I’m new to the group and haven’t seen a FAQ listing anywhere; | so I hope this doesn’t bother any of you too much.  I have just purchased | a nice older bow sans string.  I’m interested in making OR buying a few | strings for this bow. | | I don’t know the draw height yet.  It’s a recurve; 45xx# 62".  Is this | enough info to determine a good length for the string?  As this is an | older bow, I’m interested in making a string with linen; what | material should I use for serving the string? | Hum. *How* old? Be careful when shooting it for the first time, if it has any stress fractures etc, the first time you shoot, a limb could snap and take your nuts off… Im not sure about making a string out of linen, its not really my scene, but for an older bow I would suspect a fairly thick dacron string would be strong (and slow) enough to do the job. As for the length of said string, given the info Im not sure, I’d hazard a guess, the first 2 numbers indicate the draw weight [in inches], and the last two numbers indicate the bow length [in pounds]. I could be wrong, so use this advice at your own risk. Regards Ewan — Ewan Oughton [0143324] 2nd Year B.Sc. Comp. Sys. http://www.10xshot.com — Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

finished up at a measured 43#. The 62" is more than likely the AMO length of the bow; I’d put a tape measure to it to make sure. One thing that can be determined, is that bow is very likely 30-40 years old, and as such, I agree that it wouldn’t be the wisest thing in the world to string it up and shoot it. You are very correct; It may become discombobulated in a spectacular and possibly hazardous manner…

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > | Hello all.  I’m new to the group and haven’t seen a FAQ listing anywhere; > | so I hope this doesn’t bother any of you too much.  I have just purchased > | a nice older bow sans string.  I’m interested in making OR buying a few > | strings for this bow. > | > | I don’t know the draw height yet.  It’s a recurve; 45xx# 62".  Is this > | enough info to determine a good length for the string?  As this is an > | older bow, I’m interested in making a string with linen; what > | material should I use for serving the string? > | > Hum. *How* old? > Be careful when shooting it for the first time, if it has any stress > fractures etc, the first time you shoot, a limb could snap and take your > nuts off… > Im not sure about making a string out of linen, its not really my scene, but > for an older bow I would suspect a fairly thick dacron string would be > strong (and slow) enough to do the job. > As for the length of said string, given the info Im not sure, I’d hazard a > guess, the first 2 numbers indicate the draw weight [in inches], and the > last two numbers indicate the bow length [in pounds]. I could be wrong, so > use this advice at your own risk. > Regards > Ewan > — > Ewan Oughton [0143324] > 2nd Year B.Sc. Comp. Sys. > http://www.10xshot.com > — > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

> Be careful when shooting it for the first time, if it has any stress > fractures etc, the first time you shoot, a limb could snap and take your > nuts off… > Im not sure about making a string out of linen, its not really my scene, but > for an older bow I would suspect a fairly thick dacron string would be > strong (and slow) enough to do the job.

Making strings is fun but has it’s hazards.  Friend and I made a Kevlar string for his old Jennings.  Time involved was a 6 pack of beer. Unfortunately when we went in my yard to test it, he accidently dry-fired and the anchor on the bow’s cable broke! Fortunately there were 2 weeks til bow season and he got it fixed in time. For the matter at hand, I believe Dacron has lower modulus than linen and would be more forgiving.  Any serving material should do.  I believe my server has nylon in it. Frank

Response:

> Making strings is fun but has it’s hazards. > Unfortunately when we went in my yard to test it, he accidently dry-fired > and the anchor on the bow’s cable broke!

How does making strings and dry-firing connect? MA

Response:

> Making strings is fun but has it’s hazards. > Unfortunately when we went in my yard to test it, he accidently > dry-fired > and the anchor on the bow’s cable broke! > How does making strings and dry-firing connect?

They don’t but adds color to my comments.  Also going back to the incident, my friend’s bow may not have broken if the string was Dacron.  High modulus fibers such as Kevlar and Spectran are not recommended for bows built with lower modulus strings in mind. Frank

Response:

through a six-pack of beer? > Making strings is fun but has it’s hazards. > Unfortunately when we went in my yard to test it, he accidently > dry-fired > and the anchor on the bow’s cable broke! > How does making strings and dry-firing connect? > MA

– TexARC publicize the sport of Archery!  http://www.texasarchery.org and put your name in body of message.

Response:

> through a six-pack of beer?

Better response than mine.  Also recall they were 16 ounce cans.  Clyde never could hold his liquor Frank

Response:

Assuming a 45 lb. 62" bow make the string 59". Good shooting, — David Stites Mount Vernon, WA

| | Hello all.  I’m new to the group and haven’t seen a FAQ listing anywhere; | | so I hope this doesn’t bother any of you too much.  I have just purchased | | a nice older bow sans string.  I’m interested in making OR buying a few | | strings for this bow. | | | | I don’t know the draw height yet.  It’s a recurve; 45xx# 62".  Is this | | enough info to determine a good length for the string?  As this is an | | older bow, I’m interested in making a string with linen; what | | material should I use for serving the string? | | | | | Hum. *How* old? | | Be careful when shooting it for the first time, if it has any stress | fractures etc, the first time you shoot, a limb could snap and take your | nuts off… | | Im not sure about making a string out of linen, its not really my scene, but | for an older bow I would suspect a fairly thick dacron string would be | strong (and slow) enough to do the job. | | As for the length of said string, given the info Im not sure, I’d hazard a | guess, the first 2 numbers indicate the draw weight [in inches], and the | last two numbers indicate the bow length [in pounds]. I could be wrong, so | use this advice at your own risk. | | | Regards | | Ewan | | | — | Ewan Oughton [0143324] | 2nd Year B.Sc. Comp. Sys. | http://www.10xshot.com | | | — | Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. | Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). | | Posted Via Uncensored-News.Com – Still Only $9.95 – http://www.uncensored-news.com       <><><><><><><>   The Worlds Uncensored News Source   <><><><><><><><>

Response:

have you tried twine yet fred? Sam

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > > hey ho, > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > anyone have any suggestions? > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > > any others? > > f > —

> "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

I also recommend the DR Sunbeams.  They’ve got a great brightness to them and they really do last. –Winston TK

Response:

not yet, but, its on my list… f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> have you tried twine yet fred? > Sam > actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will > sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like > LaBella Slappers, > > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll > mess with a > > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to > find too. > > Ric > > > hey ho, > > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with > good results. > > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > > anyone have any suggestions? > > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund > nickels though. > > > any others? > > > f > > — > > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" > >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > > Ric Williams

Response:

Locally. Atomic Music in College Park, MD Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >where’d ya get them? >f > The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go >on > one of the fretlesses next. > Brad > >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? > >thanks > >fred > >> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith >Burners > >that > >> I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > >> Brad > >> >hey ho, > >> >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > >> >i’d like to try another nickel set… > >> >anyone have any suggestions? > >> >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > >> >any others?

Response:

where’d ya get them? f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go on > one of the fretlesses next. > Brad >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? >thanks >fred >> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners >that >> I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. >> Brad >> >hey ho, >> >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >> >i’d like to try another nickel set… >> >anyone have any suggestions? >> >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >> >any others?

Response:

The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go on one of the fretlesses next. Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? >thanks >fred > They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners >that > I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > Brad > >hey ho, > >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > >i’d like to try another nickel set… > >anyone have any suggestions? > >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > >any others?

Response:

Yeah, I just wasn’t sure if the tapered winding might ad another variable if the taper falls in the sensing area. I guess that, at worst, you might have to adjust the signal level for any string that was affected. Ric – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > > hey ho, > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > anyone have any suggestions? > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > > any others? > > f > — > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

– "You’re on a first name basis with lucidity, little friend. I have to call him ‘Mr. Lucidity’. "     — The Tick Ric Williams

Response:

actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY material. thanks for the info. f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f > — > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

Response:

I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. Ric > hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f

– "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?"   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 Ric Williams

Response:

they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? thanks fred

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners that > I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > Brad >hey ho, >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >i’d like to try another nickel set… >anyone have any suggestions? >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >any others?

Response:

I second the sunbeams suggestion – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f > Lo-rider nickels are nice. Also like DR Sunbeams for their slightly > softer feel.

Response:

hey ho, i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. i’d like to try another nickel set… anyone have any suggestions? i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. any others? f

Response:

They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners that I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >hey ho, >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >i’d like to try another nickel set… >anyone have any suggestions? >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >any others?

Response:

> hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f

Lo-rider nickels are nice. Also like DR Sunbeams for their slightly softer feel.

Response:

have you tried twine yet fred? Sam

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > > hey ho, > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > anyone have any suggestions? > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > > any others? > > f > —

> "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

I also recommend the DR Sunbeams.  They’ve got a great brightness to them and they really do last. –Winston TK

Response:

not yet, but, its on my list… f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> have you tried twine yet fred? > Sam > actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will > sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like > LaBella Slappers, > > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll > mess with a > > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to > find too. > > Ric > > > hey ho, > > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with > good results. > > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > > anyone have any suggestions? > > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund > nickels though. > > > any others? > > > f > > — > > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" > >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > > Ric Williams

Response:

Locally. Atomic Music in College Park, MD Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >where’d ya get them? >f > The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go >on > one of the fretlesses next. > Brad > >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? > >thanks > >fred > >> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith >Burners > >that > >> I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > >> Brad > >> >hey ho, > >> >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > >> >i’d like to try another nickel set… > >> >anyone have any suggestions? > >> >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > >> >any others?

Response:

where’d ya get them? f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go on > one of the fretlesses next. > Brad >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? >thanks >fred >> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners >that >> I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. >> Brad >> >hey ho, >> >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >> >i’d like to try another nickel set… >> >anyone have any suggestions? >> >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >> >any others?

Response:

The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go on one of the fretlesses next. Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? >thanks >fred > They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners >that > I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > Brad > >hey ho, > >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > >i’d like to try another nickel set… > >anyone have any suggestions? > >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > >any others?

Response:

Yeah, I just wasn’t sure if the tapered winding might ad another variable if the taper falls in the sensing area. I guess that, at worst, you might have to adjust the signal level for any string that was affected. Ric – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > > hey ho, > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > anyone have any suggestions? > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > > any others? > > f > — > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

– "You’re on a first name basis with lucidity, little friend. I have to call him ‘Mr. Lucidity’. "     — The Tick Ric Williams

Response:

actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY material. thanks for the info. f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f > — > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

Response:

I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. Ric > hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f

– "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?"   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 Ric Williams

Response:

they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? thanks fred

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners that > I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > Brad >hey ho, >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >i’d like to try another nickel set… >anyone have any suggestions? >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >any others?

Response:

I second the sunbeams suggestion – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f > Lo-rider nickels are nice. Also like DR Sunbeams for their slightly > softer feel.

Response:

hey ho, i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. i’d like to try another nickel set… anyone have any suggestions? i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. any others? f

Response:

They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners that I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >hey ho, >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >i’d like to try another nickel set… >anyone have any suggestions? >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >any others?

Response:

> hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f

Lo-rider nickels are nice. Also like DR Sunbeams for their slightly softer feel.

Response:

have you tried twine yet fred? Sam

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > > hey ho, > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > anyone have any suggestions? > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > > any others? > > f > —

> "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

I also recommend the DR Sunbeams.  They’ve got a great brightness to them and they really do last. –Winston TK

Response:

not yet, but, its on my list… f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> have you tried twine yet fred? > Sam > actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will > sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like > LaBella Slappers, > > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll > mess with a > > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to > find too. > > Ric > > > hey ho, > > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with > good results. > > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > > anyone have any suggestions? > > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund > nickels though. > > > any others? > > > f > > — > > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" > >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > > Ric Williams

Response:

Locally. Atomic Music in College Park, MD Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >where’d ya get them? >f > The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go >on > one of the fretlesses next. > Brad > >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? > >thanks > >fred > >> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith >Burners > >that > >> I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > >> Brad > >> >hey ho, > >> >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > >> >i’d like to try another nickel set… > >> >anyone have any suggestions? > >> >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > >> >any others?

Response:

where’d ya get them? f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go on > one of the fretlesses next. > Brad >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? >thanks >fred >> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners >that >> I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. >> Brad >> >hey ho, >> >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >> >i’d like to try another nickel set… >> >anyone have any suggestions? >> >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >> >any others?

Response:

The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go on one of the fretlesses next. Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? >thanks >fred > They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners >that > I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > Brad > >hey ho, > >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > >i’d like to try another nickel set… > >anyone have any suggestions? > >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > >any others?

Response:

Yeah, I just wasn’t sure if the tapered winding might ad another variable if the taper falls in the sensing area. I guess that, at worst, you might have to adjust the signal level for any string that was affected. Ric – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > > hey ho, > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > anyone have any suggestions? > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > > any others? > > f > — > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

– "You’re on a first name basis with lucidity, little friend. I have to call him ‘Mr. Lucidity’. "     — The Tick Ric Williams

Response:

actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY material. thanks for the info. f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f > — > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

Response:

I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. Ric > hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f

– "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?"   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 Ric Williams

Response:

they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? thanks fred

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners that > I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > Brad >hey ho, >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >i’d like to try another nickel set… >anyone have any suggestions? >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >any others?

Response:

I second the sunbeams suggestion – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f > Lo-rider nickels are nice. Also like DR Sunbeams for their slightly > softer feel.

Response:

hey ho, i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. i’d like to try another nickel set… anyone have any suggestions? i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. any others? f

Response:

They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners that I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >hey ho, >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >i’d like to try another nickel set… >anyone have any suggestions? >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >any others?

Response:

> hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f

Lo-rider nickels are nice. Also like DR Sunbeams for their slightly softer feel.

Response:

have you tried twine yet fred? Sam

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > > hey ho, > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > anyone have any suggestions? > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > > any others? > > f > —

> "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

I also recommend the DR Sunbeams.  They’ve got a great brightness to them and they really do last. –Winston TK

Response:

not yet, but, its on my list… f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> have you tried twine yet fred? > Sam > actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will > sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like > LaBella Slappers, > > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll > mess with a > > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to > find too. > > Ric > > > hey ho, > > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with > good results. > > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > > anyone have any suggestions? > > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund > nickels though. > > > any others? > > > f > > — > > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" > >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > > Ric Williams

Response:

Locally. Atomic Music in College Park, MD Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >where’d ya get them? >f > The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go >on > one of the fretlesses next. > Brad > >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? > >thanks > >fred > >> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith >Burners > >that > >> I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > >> Brad > >> >hey ho, > >> >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > >> >i’d like to try another nickel set… > >> >anyone have any suggestions? > >> >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > >> >any others?

Response:

where’d ya get them? f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go on > one of the fretlesses next. > Brad >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? >thanks >fred >> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners >that >> I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. >> Brad >> >hey ho, >> >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >> >i’d like to try another nickel set… >> >anyone have any suggestions? >> >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >> >any others?

Response:

The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go on one of the fretlesses next. Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? >thanks >fred > They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners >that > I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > Brad > >hey ho, > >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > >i’d like to try another nickel set… > >anyone have any suggestions? > >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > >any others?

Response:

Yeah, I just wasn’t sure if the tapered winding might ad another variable if the taper falls in the sensing area. I guess that, at worst, you might have to adjust the signal level for any string that was affected. Ric – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > > hey ho, > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > anyone have any suggestions? > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > > any others? > > f > — > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

– "You’re on a first name basis with lucidity, little friend. I have to call him ‘Mr. Lucidity’. "     — The Tick Ric Williams

Response:

actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY material. thanks for the info. f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f > — > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

Response:

I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. Ric > hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f

– "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?"   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 Ric Williams

Response:

they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? thanks fred

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners that > I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > Brad >hey ho, >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >i’d like to try another nickel set… >anyone have any suggestions? >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >any others?

Response:

I second the sunbeams suggestion – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f > Lo-rider nickels are nice. Also like DR Sunbeams for their slightly > softer feel.

Response:

hey ho, i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. i’d like to try another nickel set… anyone have any suggestions? i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. any others? f

Response:

They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners that I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >hey ho, >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >i’d like to try another nickel set… >anyone have any suggestions? >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >any others?

Response:

> hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f

Lo-rider nickels are nice. Also like DR Sunbeams for their slightly softer feel.

Response:

have you tried twine yet fred? Sam

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > > hey ho, > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > anyone have any suggestions? > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > > any others? > > f > —

> "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

I also recommend the DR Sunbeams.  They’ve got a great brightness to them and they really do last. –Winston TK

Response:

not yet, but, its on my list… f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> have you tried twine yet fred? > Sam > actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will > sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like > LaBella Slappers, > > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll > mess with a > > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to > find too. > > Ric > > > hey ho, > > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with > good results. > > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > > anyone have any suggestions? > > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund > nickels though. > > > any others? > > > f > > — > > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" > >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > > Ric Williams

Response:

Locally. Atomic Music in College Park, MD Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >where’d ya get them? >f > The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go >on > one of the fretlesses next. > Brad > >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? > >thanks > >fred > >> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith >Burners > >that > >> I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > >> Brad > >> >hey ho, > >> >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > >> >i’d like to try another nickel set… > >> >anyone have any suggestions? > >> >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > >> >any others?

Response:

where’d ya get them? f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go on > one of the fretlesses next. > Brad >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? >thanks >fred >> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners >that >> I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. >> Brad >> >hey ho, >> >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >> >i’d like to try another nickel set… >> >anyone have any suggestions? >> >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >> >any others?

Response:

The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go on one of the fretlesses next. Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? >thanks >fred > They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners >that > I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > Brad > >hey ho, > >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > >i’d like to try another nickel set… > >anyone have any suggestions? > >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > >any others?

Response:

Yeah, I just wasn’t sure if the tapered winding might ad another variable if the taper falls in the sensing area. I guess that, at worst, you might have to adjust the signal level for any string that was affected. Ric – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > > hey ho, > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > anyone have any suggestions? > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > > any others? > > f > — > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

– "You’re on a first name basis with lucidity, little friend. I have to call him ‘Mr. Lucidity’. "     — The Tick Ric Williams

Response:

actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY material. thanks for the info. f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f > — > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

Response:

I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. Ric > hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f

– "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?"   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 Ric Williams

Response:

they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? thanks fred

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners that > I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > Brad >hey ho, >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >i’d like to try another nickel set… >anyone have any suggestions? >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >any others?

Response:

I second the sunbeams suggestion – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f > Lo-rider nickels are nice. Also like DR Sunbeams for their slightly > softer feel.

Response:

hey ho, i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. i’d like to try another nickel set… anyone have any suggestions? i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. any others? f

Response:

They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners that I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >hey ho, >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >i’d like to try another nickel set… >anyone have any suggestions? >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >any others?

Response:

> hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f

Lo-rider nickels are nice. Also like DR Sunbeams for their slightly softer feel.

Response:

have you tried twine yet fred? Sam

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > > hey ho, > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > anyone have any suggestions? > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > > any others? > > f > —

> "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

I also recommend the DR Sunbeams.  They’ve got a great brightness to them and they really do last. –Winston TK

Response:

not yet, but, its on my list… f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> have you tried twine yet fred? > Sam > actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will > sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like > LaBella Slappers, > > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll > mess with a > > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to > find too. > > Ric > > > hey ho, > > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with > good results. > > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > > anyone have any suggestions? > > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund > nickels though. > > > any others? > > > f > > — > > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" > >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > > Ric Williams

Response:

Locally. Atomic Music in College Park, MD Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >where’d ya get them? >f > The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go >on > one of the fretlesses next. > Brad > >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? > >thanks > >fred > >> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith >Burners > >that > >> I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > >> Brad > >> >hey ho, > >> >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > >> >i’d like to try another nickel set… > >> >anyone have any suggestions? > >> >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > >> >any others?

Response:

where’d ya get them? f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go on > one of the fretlesses next. > Brad >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? >thanks >fred >> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners >that >> I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. >> Brad >> >hey ho, >> >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >> >i’d like to try another nickel set… >> >anyone have any suggestions? >> >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >> >any others?

Response:

The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go on one of the fretlesses next. Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? >thanks >fred > They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners >that > I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > Brad > >hey ho, > >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > >i’d like to try another nickel set… > >anyone have any suggestions? > >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > >any others?

Response:

Yeah, I just wasn’t sure if the tapered winding might ad another variable if the taper falls in the sensing area. I guess that, at worst, you might have to adjust the signal level for any string that was affected. Ric – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > > hey ho, > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > anyone have any suggestions? > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > > any others? > > f > — > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

– "You’re on a first name basis with lucidity, little friend. I have to call him ‘Mr. Lucidity’. "     — The Tick Ric Williams

Response:

actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY material. thanks for the info. f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f > — > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

Response:

I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. Ric > hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f

– "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?"   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 Ric Williams

Response:

they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? thanks fred

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners that > I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > Brad >hey ho, >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >i’d like to try another nickel set… >anyone have any suggestions? >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >any others?

Response:

I second the sunbeams suggestion – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f > Lo-rider nickels are nice. Also like DR Sunbeams for their slightly > softer feel.

Response:

hey ho, i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. i’d like to try another nickel set… anyone have any suggestions? i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. any others? f

Response:

They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners that I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >hey ho, >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >i’d like to try another nickel set… >anyone have any suggestions? >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >any others?

Response:

> hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f

Lo-rider nickels are nice. Also like DR Sunbeams for their slightly softer feel.

Response:

have you tried twine yet fred? Sam

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > > hey ho, > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > anyone have any suggestions? > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > > any others? > > f > —

> "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

I also recommend the DR Sunbeams.  They’ve got a great brightness to them and they really do last. –Winston TK

Response:

not yet, but, its on my list… f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> have you tried twine yet fred? > Sam > actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will > sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like > LaBella Slappers, > > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll > mess with a > > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to > find too. > > Ric > > > hey ho, > > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with > good results. > > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > > anyone have any suggestions? > > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund > nickels though. > > > any others? > > > f > > — > > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" > >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > > Ric Williams

Response:

Locally. Atomic Music in College Park, MD Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >where’d ya get them? >f > The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go >on > one of the fretlesses next. > Brad > >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? > >thanks > >fred > >> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith >Burners > >that > >> I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > >> Brad > >> >hey ho, > >> >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > >> >i’d like to try another nickel set… > >> >anyone have any suggestions? > >> >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > >> >any others?

Response:

where’d ya get them? f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go on > one of the fretlesses next. > Brad >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? >thanks >fred >> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners >that >> I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. >> Brad >> >hey ho, >> >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >> >i’d like to try another nickel set… >> >anyone have any suggestions? >> >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >> >any others?

Response:

The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go on one of the fretlesses next. Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? >thanks >fred > They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners >that > I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > Brad > >hey ho, > >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > >i’d like to try another nickel set… > >anyone have any suggestions? > >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > >any others?

Response:

Yeah, I just wasn’t sure if the tapered winding might ad another variable if the taper falls in the sensing area. I guess that, at worst, you might have to adjust the signal level for any string that was affected. Ric – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > > hey ho, > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > anyone have any suggestions? > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > > any others? > > f > — > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

– "You’re on a first name basis with lucidity, little friend. I have to call him ‘Mr. Lucidity’. "     — The Tick Ric Williams

Response:

actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY material. thanks for the info. f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f > — > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

Response:

I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. Ric > hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f

– "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?"   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 Ric Williams

Response:

they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? thanks fred

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners that > I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > Brad >hey ho, >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >i’d like to try another nickel set… >anyone have any suggestions? >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >any others?

Response:

I second the sunbeams suggestion – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f > Lo-rider nickels are nice. Also like DR Sunbeams for their slightly > softer feel.

Response:

hey ho, i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. i’d like to try another nickel set… anyone have any suggestions? i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. any others? f

Response:

They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners that I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >hey ho, >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >i’d like to try another nickel set… >anyone have any suggestions? >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >any others?

Response:

> hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f

Lo-rider nickels are nice. Also like DR Sunbeams for their slightly softer feel.

Response:

have you tried twine yet fred? Sam

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > > hey ho, > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > anyone have any suggestions? > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > > any others? > > f > —

> "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

I also recommend the DR Sunbeams.  They’ve got a great brightness to them and they really do last. –Winston TK

Response:

not yet, but, its on my list… f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> have you tried twine yet fred? > Sam > actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will > sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like > LaBella Slappers, > > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll > mess with a > > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to > find too. > > Ric > > > hey ho, > > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with > good results. > > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > > anyone have any suggestions? > > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund > nickels though. > > > any others? > > > f > > — > > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" > >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > > Ric Williams

Response:

Locally. Atomic Music in College Park, MD Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >where’d ya get them? >f > The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go >on > one of the fretlesses next. > Brad > >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? > >thanks > >fred > >> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith >Burners > >that > >> I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > >> Brad > >> >hey ho, > >> >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > >> >i’d like to try another nickel set… > >> >anyone have any suggestions? > >> >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > >> >any others?

Response:

where’d ya get them? f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go on > one of the fretlesses next. > Brad >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? >thanks >fred >> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners >that >> I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. >> Brad >> >hey ho, >> >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >> >i’d like to try another nickel set… >> >anyone have any suggestions? >> >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >> >any others?

Response:

The DR’s. I have Lowriders on the Elrick and have a Sunbeam set here to go on one of the fretlesses next. Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? >thanks >fred > They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners >that > I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > Brad > >hey ho, > >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > >i’d like to try another nickel set… > >anyone have any suggestions? > >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > >any others?

Response:

Yeah, I just wasn’t sure if the tapered winding might ad another variable if the taper falls in the sensing area. I guess that, at worst, you might have to adjust the signal level for any string that was affected. Ric – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY > material. > thanks for the info. > f > I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > > hey ho, > > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > > i’d like to try another nickel set… > > anyone have any suggestions? > > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > > any others? > > f > — > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

– "You’re on a first name basis with lucidity, little friend. I have to call him ‘Mr. Lucidity’. "     — The Tick Ric Williams

Response:

actually, the lightwaves (not relying on magnetics) will sense nearly ANY material. thanks for the info. f

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, > but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a > lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. > Ric > hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f > — > "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?" >   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 > Ric Williams

Response:

I like both the DR Lo Riders and Sunbeams. I also like LaBella Slappers, but they have a taper core, and I don’t know if that’ll mess with a lightwave pickup in some way. They’re a little hard to find too. Ric > hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f

– "Would you like something to dip your Tenders in?"   — Cracker Barrel waitress, 1/12/02 Ric Williams

Response:

they being the zons? or the dr lowriders? thanks fred

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners that > I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. > Brad >hey ho, >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >i’d like to try another nickel set… >anyone have any suggestions? >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >any others?

Response:

I second the sunbeams suggestion – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f > Lo-rider nickels are nice. Also like DR Sunbeams for their slightly > softer feel.

Response:

hey ho, i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. i’d like to try another nickel set… anyone have any suggestions? i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. any others? f

Response:

They are nice, I use them on the Elrick, along with the Ken Smith Burners that I use on my Zon. My local used gear store stocks both. Brad – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >hey ho, >i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. >i’d like to try another nickel set… >anyone have any suggestions? >i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. >any others?

Response:

> hey ho, > i’ve been using medium zon nickel ultrasonics with good results. > i’d like to try another nickel set… > anyone have any suggestions? > i’ve hear the DR Lowriders are good….hard to fiund nickels though. > any others? > f

Lo-rider nickels are nice. Also like DR Sunbeams for their slightly softer feel.

Response:

Question regarding Bear bow

Question:

Hello, I’m new to archery and new to the group. I’ve recently purchased an older Bear Kodiak Special target bow from, I believe, the early 60s. It’s in excellent condition, and is ready to shoot, EXCEPT, it’s missing the sighting device. There’s a slot in the sight window with a scale on it, but no sight. Can anyone tell me a good source for this item? Thanks in advance, and peace… christopher

Response:

Sounds like you bought a bow that a "Bare-Bow" shooter had. Meaning no sight.Other than the marks on the riser in the sight window.Those are the sights. Unless you can duplicate that archers form,forget those marks and get a sight. Less headache later….

Response:

It’s possible that a "bare-bow" shooter used this particular bow, however the slot and hardware are there just waiting for a sight to be mounted. I’ve seen other (Fred) Bear bows with the same hardware, and the sights, most notable a Temujin.  I’m not keen on mounting a new sight, as it would detract from the aesthetic value of the bow, and probably the monetary value as well. Thanks for the input, though! I appreciate it. christopoher

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Sounds like you bought a bow that a "Bare-Bow" shooter had. Meaning no > sight.Other than the marks on the riser in the sight window.Those are the > sights. Unless you can duplicate that archers form,forget those marks and get a > sight. > Less headache later….

Response:

I agree. I wouldn’t mount an aftermarket sight as it would involve drilling holes in the riser most likely. Those sights are out there. Maybe I can pick you up one at the Trad Expo in January. If I find one, I’ll let you know and then email me your shipping address.

Response:

John, I really don’t want to mount an aftermarket for that exact reason. This bow is in great condition, and even came with the original stabilizers (two lengths/weights, both stainless steel). The riser is beautiful, and the limbs are nearly perfect. I wouldnt’ want to add any "new" equipment to it. Your offer is most kind, and most appreciated! I’ll take you up on that, thanks. Peace, christopher Thank you. That would be MOST appreciated!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I agree. I wouldn’t mount an aftermarket sight as it would involve drilling > holes in the riser most likely. > Those sights are out there. Maybe I can pick you up one at the Trad Expo in > January. > If I find one, I’ll let you know and then email me your shipping address.

Response:

Help Me please

Question:

Hello all, I’m newbie and I need help for a  HCA Silent Hunter. Can someone tell me technical informations and/or coments about this bow ? (or, where I can find) Thanks Mauro

Response:

>Hello all, >I’m newbie and I need help for a  HCA Silent Hunter. >Can someone tell me technical informations and/or coments about this bow ? >(or, where I can find)

http://www.highcountryarchery.com/ Maybe that helps. — Sven

Response:

Win and Win (newbie new bow question)

Question:

Hello all, Just a quick one. I’m looking to by a new bow. After picking some brains at my club it seems that a Win & Win Toz with A Form Limbs is probably the best choice for my budget (about

I may be gone for some time

Question:

Hello all, Sadly, the time has come to make some major decisions. The results of which are: a: I shall not be seen around these parts until mid June of the space year 2001 b: My website shall not be updated until mid June of the space year 2001. c: If you send me an email, it shall be replied to on a Friday. "Why!?" you may ask. The question? The Leaving Certificate examinations, which, in the good old Republic, basically dictate what you do with the rest of your life. My last exam is Applied Mathematics on June 22nd, so I shall return on the afternoon of that very day. Easy now, Ewan — Ewan Oughton www.archery2k.com

Response:

good luck to you on your examinations. Archeryking "Ewan" – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello all, > Sadly, the time has come to make some major decisions. > The results of which are: > a: I shall not be seen around these parts until mid June of the space year > 2001 > b: My website shall not be updated until mid June of the space year 2001. > c: If you send me an email, it shall be replied to on a Friday. > "Why!?" you may ask. The question? The Leaving Certificate examinations, > which, in the good old Republic, basically dictate what you do with the rest > of your life. > My last exam is Applied Mathematics on June 22nd, so I shall return on the > afternoon of that very day. > Easy now, > Ewan > — > Ewan Oughton > www.archery2k.com

Response:

Don’t think of them as exams – think of them as "biscuits" – alot less stressful.   "Ewan" – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hello all, > Sadly, the time has come to make some major decisions. > The results of which are: > a: I shall not be seen around these parts until mid June of the space year > 2001 > b: My website shall not be updated until mid June of the space year 2001. > c: If you send me an email, it shall be replied to on a Friday. > "Why!?" you may ask. The question? The Leaving Certificate examinations, > which, in the good old Republic, basically dictate what you do with the rest > of your life. > My last exam is Applied Mathematics on June 22nd, so I shall return on the > afternoon of that very day. > Easy now, > Ewan > — > Ewan Oughton > www.archery2k.com

Response:

Study hard and ace those exams. We will miss you. Jane "Ewan" – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello all, > Sadly, the time has come to make some major decisions. > The results of which are: > a: I shall not be seen around these parts until mid June of the space year > 2001 > b: My website shall not be updated until mid June of the space year 2001. > c: If you send me an email, it shall be replied to on a Friday. > "Why!?" you may ask. The question? The Leaving Certificate examinations, > which, in the good old Republic, basically dictate what you do with the rest > of your life. > My last exam is Applied Mathematics on June 22nd, so I shall return on the > afternoon of that very day. > Easy now, > Ewan > — > Ewan Oughton > www.archery2k.com

Response:

Television coverage of archery

Question:

Hello all I don’t know about the rest of Europe, but here in Ireland archery has a fairly small following: if it was shown on TV it would be of little interest to most of the population. This really is a shame, as I would love to see the top recurve shooters shoot in detail. This, as far as I can see, is the main problem: there isn’t enough people interested in archery for it to televised. — Ewan Oughton www.archery2000.cjb.net www.cyberarmy.com

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello all > I don’t know about the rest of Europe, but here in Ireland archery has a > fairly small following: if it was shown on TV it would be of little interest > to most of the population. This really is a shame, as I would love to see > the top recurve shooters shoot in detail. > This, as far as I can see, is the main problem: there isn’t enough people > interested in archery for it to televised. > — > Ewan Oughton > www.archery2000.cjb.net > www.cyberarmy.com

Same In Britain I Join in Your Sadness

Response:

> This, as far as I can see, is the main problem: there isn’t enough people > interested in archery for it to televised.

Not counting that it would be as booring as watching paint dry. Marc

Response:

>This, as far as I can see, is the main problem: there isn’t enough people >interested in archery for it to televised.

Same in Germany.  :-(( — Sven

Response:

> Hello all > I don’t know about the rest of Europe, but here in Ireland archery has a > fairly small following: if it was shown on TV it would be of little interest > to most of the population. This really is a shame, as I would love to see > the top recurve shooters shoot in detail. > This, as far as I can see, is the main problem: there isn’t enough people > interested in archery for it to televised.

Lets face it.  Archery is a great participant sport, but a lousy spectator sport.  TV networks aren’t going to show anything that doesn’t get good ratings because the sponsors won’t pay for it. Dick F.

Response:

> > This, as far as I can see, is the main problem: there isn’t enough people > interested in archery for it to televised. > Not counting that it would be as booring as watching paint dry.

If it is boring it is either because you don’t know what is happening (e.g. you see some people shooting but you can’t see where they are hitting), or because there is no good match. In the finals there usually is a good match. Millions of people watch golf, probably the most boring of all sports. Not only does it drag on for hours and hours and hours, you can hardly see the ball either. I believe there are two reasons why people watch it: 1) It is there. You turn on the TV and there it is, you can’t avoid it. 2) The producers make sure you can see where the ball falls down, how the players fare relative to each other and more. Now, archery finals have almost everything that is needed to make it exiting. The nerves, the shooter to shooter match, the failures that always come. All we lack are some girls in bikini. I propose we change to nude shooting in the Olympics — Kjetil Kilhavn http://home.sol.no/~kkilhavn/

Response:

Really. I’d much rather be out stump shooting in the rain, than watching someone who’se NOT in the rain shoot on TV. John Dickmon

Response:

>Lets face it.  Archery is a great participant sport, but a lousy spectator >sport.  TV networks aren’t going to show anything that doesn’t get good >ratings because the sponsors won’t pay for it.

On the last WC in France, the french TV televised all of the competition on national TV. The resonance in archery in France is very good. They set a camera direct in front of the archer, a second one only 2 meters right before the target and a third one (VERY small) into the  X towards the shooter!! From the moment, the finals started, it was very exciting. Unfortunaltely, our german sport TV (DSF) shows only 3 hours of the whole World Championship.  :-/ — Sven

Response:

They did that same trick at the Olympics in Atlanta. As I remember, the Women’s Gold Medalist ruined two of their X-ring cameras. That was cool. John Dickmon

Response:

> > This, as far as I can see, is the main problem: there isn’t enough people > interested in archery for it to televised. > Not counting that it would be as booring as watching paint dry.

I’m not so sure of that… after all they televise (in order of boredom): Darts, Golf, Cricket and manage to make them more or less watchable (well, maybe not with the Darts…). All it needs is slick enough presentation… I went to watch the (much maligned) World Indoor at the NSC in Birmingham a few years back and enjoyed it a lot. Mind you, I took my own scope, so I wouldn’t have to rely on the big screens to follow the "action". Before you buy.

Response:

<snip>  Ouch, I know some girls that will be happy to not worry about catching their sleeves in the string, but will be much more worried about other things! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> come. All we lack are some girls in bikini. I propose we change to nude > shooting in the Olympics > — > Kjetil Kilhavn > http://home.sol.no/~kkilhavn/

Response:

Should have ruined more than that!

Response:

>They did that same trick at the Olympics in Atlanta. As I remember, the Women’s >Gold Medalist ruined two of their X-ring cameras. That was cool.

No risk, no fun.   )) — Sven

Response:

>This, as far as I can see, is the main problem: there isn’t enough people >interested in archery for it to televised.

Two points: 1) Eurosport televise the World Champs (and very well, too!). 2) Videos of the worldchamps/olympics are available (from FITA perhaps? – can’t remember, sorry) But yes, I agree – they could do more. I’ve seen some VERY dull sport on all of the SKY sports channels! — Murray

Response:

Kjetil  -  you will find MORE interest if the guys and girls wear  just a LITTLE bit of covering – leaving more to the imagination….   Although it could be fun if the LOSER of each round has to strip and run out to the target and back!  :) (Slo mo replay allowed) <G> – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > This, as far as I can see, is the main problem: there isn’t enough people > > interested in archery for it to televised. > Not counting that it would be as booring as watching paint dry. > If it is boring it is either because you don’t know what is happening (e.g. > you see some people shooting but you can’t see where they are hitting), or > because there is no good match. In the finals there usually is a good > match. Millions of people watch golf, probably the most boring of all > sports. Not only does it drag on for hours and hours and hours, you can > hardly see the ball either. I believe there are two reasons why people > watch it: > 1) It is there. You turn on the TV and there it is, you can’t avoid it. > 2) The producers make sure you can see where the ball falls down, how the > players fare relative to each other and more. > Now, archery finals have almost everything that is needed to make it > exiting. The nerves, the shooter to shooter match, the failures that always > come. All we lack are some girls in bikini. I propose we change to nude > shooting in the Olympics > — > Kjetil Kilhavn > http://home.sol.no/~kkilhavn/

– ARC in  Lago Vista, TX A hen is an egg’s way of making another egg.

Response:

> <snip>  Ouch, I know some girls that will be happy to not worry about catching > their sleeves in the string, but will be much more worried about other things!

Our 3 week summer holiday is spent at a naturist camp site, with and archery course. The women there have no more trouble catching their "sleeves" there than anywhere else. — Marc Printing for Motorsport http://www.jaceeprint.demon.co.uk/JACEE%20MOTORSPORTS%20page.html

Response:

lets face it people, when they televise such sports as curling golf SNOOKER DARTS Why the hell can’t they do the same for archery??? Darts is like watching paint dry!! At least in golf you can laugh at them when they slice the ball into a pond or something. — Ewan Oughton www.archery2000.cjb.net www.cyberarmy.com

Response:

>curling >golf >SNOOKER >DARTS

You guys missed out some fairly major sleep-inducing televised events: Chess Bridge (yes, honestly, there HAVE been televised bridge matches!!) Rock climbing … I could go on … I believe that Scottish Television had intended to do some coverage of the recent Scottish Indoor Championships… They failed to turn up. Typical! — Murray

Response:

Keeping brace height constant ?

Question:

Hello How do you keep your brace height constant with a take down recurve bow ? When unstrung the string unwinds itself & is a pain to put the correct number of turns in again. any suggestions please thanks Robin…

Response:

Two ways.  One, remove the string from the limbs, and poke one end through the other loop so that they cannot easily unwind. Other way, is leave the strings ON the limbs and pack them in the case that way. — ARC in Lago Vista, TX What garlic is to food, insanity is to art.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello > How do you keep your brace height constant with a take down recurve bow ? > When unstrung the string unwinds itself & is a pain to put the correct > number of turns in again. > any suggestions please > thanks > Robin…

Response:

>Hello >How do you keep your brace height constant with a take down recurve bow ? >When unstrung the string unwinds itself & is a pain to put the correct >number of turns in again. >any suggestions please

Beeswax the string, it tends to hold together better. When you unbrace the bow, slip the loop back along the top limb, undo both limb bolts or whatever else holds the limbs in the pockets, at the same time and slip the limbs out of the riser with the string looped on them. Stow the limbs in the case. Reassemble in the reverse order and as you re-brace the bow, the string is in exactly the same place it was last time you struck it down. A rubber band can help stop the string coming off the limb nocks. — Michael Ney

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A safety pin holds the two nock loops with their twists.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello > How do you keep your brace height constant with a take down recurve bow ? > When unstrung the string unwinds itself & is a pain to put the correct > number of turns in again. > any suggestions please > thanks > Robin…

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> Hello > How do you keep your brace height constant with a take down recurve bow ? > When unstrung the string unwinds itself & is a pain to put the correct > number of turns in again. > any suggestions please

First make sure the string is properly waxed, that way it will be less likely to untwist if you drop an end. Give it a good coating of wax and buff the excess into the string with a piece of leather (chamois maybe) or lint free cloth. If you have one of these foam arrow racks that come with a lot of the rigid bowcases, I find that one of these will hold a string quite well: put the end loops of the string together and tuck them into one of the arrow holes, then tuck the rest of the string into a couple of the other holes to stop it rattling around your case and getting caught up on other things. Another method I’ve seen, with home made cases, is to install four posts, so that the rectangle they make is slightly longer than the string length, then wrap the string round them, fastening the loops together with a rubber-band/paper-clip. You also just clip the loops together with a bulldog clip, before you put the string away the way you currently do. Whatever you do, make sure you don’t accidentally put a twist in or take one out as you set up/take down your bow, otherwise you’ll end up with a very gradually changing string length (I’ve seen this happen, it puzzled the hell out the guy who was doing it too). Before you buy.

Response:

I use a small rubber band to hold the bottom end of the string on, The top end stays looped around the limb. This has worked well for me for a number of years. Waxing a string is a mixed bag. The amount of wax on a string does have an impact on how a bow shoots, or so I’ve been told. Many people feel that the waxless nature of ASB is desireable. I add wax when I make strings and a little bit every now and then. Regardless of what you do, check the brace height at the beginning of a session and at the end. You might be surprosed…         Marty Sasaki

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>>How do you keep your brace height constant with a take down recurve bow ? >When unstrung the string unwinds itself & is a pain to put the correct >number of turns in again.

Simpler than some methods: Take off both loops, being careful not to twist them (lets call them loops a and b). Put loop a through loop b. Pull loop b through loop a. Quick and easy. Refitting is the opposite of removal! — Murray Happy New Year!

Response:

well said.  that’s what I meant. <GGG> — ARC in Lago Vista, TX A person’s maturity consists in having found again the seriousness one had as a child, at play.   – Friedrich Wilhelm Nietzsche (1844-1900)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>How do you keep your brace height constant with a take down recurve bow ? >>When unstrung the string unwinds itself & is a pain to put the correct >>number of turns in again. > Simpler than some methods: > Take off both loops, being careful not to twist them (lets call them > loops a and b). Put loop a through loop b. Pull loop b through loop a. > Quick and easy. > Refitting is the opposite of removal! > — > Murray > Happy New Year!

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>well said.  that’s what I meant. <GGG>

?? You posted a reply? Sorry if I repeated something you said Ron, but your earlier post hasn’t appeared on my newsreader… — Murray

Response:

> Take off both loops, being careful not to twist them (lets call them > loops a and b). Put loop a through loop b. Pull loop b through loop a. > Quick and easy.

Related question for a recurve newbie, how many twists is to many twists, I get a good brace height at about 25 turns. Is that excessive?  Should I just get a shorter string and work from there?

Response:

In article > Take off both loops, being careful not to twist them (lets call them > loops a and b). Put loop a through loop b. Pull loop b through loop a. > Quick and easy. > Related question for a recurve newbie, how many twists > is to many twists, I get a good brace height at about 25 turns. > Is that excessive?  Should I just get a shorter string and work > from there?

Well, you haven’t told us how long the string is, but that doesn’t sound excessive for an average string length. As a rule of thumb, there should be enough twists for the string to form a good round "rope", but not so many that it curls itself up like a dying snake, when you take it off the bow. Between these extremes use as many twists as you need to get the right bracing height. Before you buy.

Response:

>Related question for a recurve newbie, how many twists >is to many twists, I get a good brace height at about 25 turns.

I reckon, from my limited experience, that somewhere between 15 and 30 turns is fine. If you’ve got a nice sounding bow at 25 turns, I’d leave it as it is. You could always make a slightly shorter string and see what difference (if any) it makes to your grouping, but I don’t think it’ll make any difference at all. — Murray.

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> Related question for a recurve newbie, how many twists > is to many twists, I get a good brace height at about 25 turns. > Is that excessive?  Should I just get a shorter string and work > from there?

The rule of thumb is 1 turn for each 3" of string i.e. 60" siring = 20 turns. You need some twists to stop the string ‘parachuting’ on release.

Response:

There are reports that several top FITA archers have used up to 40 twists on their strings, with good results. I’ve also shot Flemish strings which have had around 35 twists will no ill effect. It was fun to shoot a red and white flemish string (Dynaflite97) for a while, but I changed to ASB, which doesn’t come in colors and is hard to use for Flemish strings since it is basically unwaxed.         Marty Sasaki

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>There are reports that several top FITA archers have used up to 40 >twists on their strings, with good results. >I’ve also shot Flemish strings which have had around 35 twists will no >ill effect. It was fun to shoot a red and white flemish string >(Dynaflite97) for a while, but I changed to ASB, which doesn’t come in >colors and is hard to use for Flemish strings since it is basically >unwaxed. >       Marty Sasaki

It depends on the type of string.  If you are using FastFlight, then I use between 75 and 100 twists, however I them polish the string using a leather, to make it into a rope. — Alex Ramage

Response:

>How do you keep your brace height constant with a take down recurve bow ? >When unstrung the string unwinds itself & is a pain to put the correct >number of turns in again. >any suggestions please >thanks >Robin…

Robin, there are a few things out there that work well for this, one of the easy ways is to keep the bow together and slide the big ended loup down the limb, or you can use a small string and clip it to the end of the string back to the limb pockit

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I would use as many twists as required to get the brace height you need.  If the string curls up like a "dying snake" when you take it off….so what as long as when the bow is strung, it performs.  You will know if you have too many twists for a given string length if one or both end loops start to twist over themselves.   bownut In article – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Take off both loops, being careful not to twist them (lets call them > loops a and b). Put loop a through loop b. Pull loop b through loop a. > Quick and easy. >Related question for a recurve newbie, how many twists >is to many twists, I get a good brace height at about 25 turns. >Is that excessive?  Should I just get a shorter string and work >from there?

Response:

Crossbows for climbers?

Question:

Hello. Does anyone know about crossbows being used for shooting bolts with attached anchor and rope? Use in rock climbing possibly? These ARE used by special police forces, etc., but any sales in the open market you know of?

Response:

I don’t know of any on the markets. But if you really need one you might go to a machine shop and ask them if they could build you something. It would be more expensive than something constructed on an assembly line, but it’d do the job, and be constructed esspecially for your crossbow. -Doc (The Archery Impaired King Of The World)

Response:

> Hello. > Does anyone know about crossbows being used for shooting bolts with attached > anchor and rope? Use in rock climbing possibly? These ARE used by special > police forces, etc., but any sales in the open market you know of?

Try adapting bowfishing gear, at least to get a line around something. You’d need a real heavy bow and bolt to carry any amount of something heavier than fishing line. Don — Don Humberson   Though a program be but 3 lines long,   someday it will have to be maintained.         G. James, The Tao of Programming Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

Response:

Archery Tournament

Question:

Hello, We are holding a huge archery triple crown on a long weekend in Sault Ste. Marie Ontario we would like to have as many peple come to it as we could. Its on July 31st, Aug 1st and Aug 2nd, on a long weekend. We have many people pre-registered and if you would like to also please respond to this message, Thanks in advance

Response:

Hey, is this an IBO tournament?? need more info before I make plans to come. Is it 3D or spots or what.. If it is 3D what kind of max. yardage will there be..

Response:

Its an OAA rules 3-D archery shoot, there is a max yardage of 50 plus some odd percentage error something like 3%, If you think you may want to come just give me your fax and I can send you a registration form, you may want to register because they are only allowing up to 150 shooters, and there are many shooters already registered. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hey, is this an IBO tournament?? need more info before I make plans to come. Is > it 3D or spots or what.. If it is 3D what kind of max. yardage will there be..

Response:

Chek-It

Question:

Hello, anyone out there from the US. Would like to find out where Chek-It is – the company, that is. Would like to correspond with them to get a catalog, etc. Can anyone tell me what’s their address, phone number – fax number preferably. Thanks mucho…Lito

Response:

Chek-It is located at:         Chek-It         W7385 C.T.H. ZN         Onalaska, WI  54650         (608)781-6500

Response:

: Hello, anyone out there from the US. Would like to find out where : Chek-It is – the company, that is. Would like to correspond with : them to get a catalog, etc. Can anyone tell me what’s their : address, phone number – fax number preferably. Thanks : mucho…Lito From their 1995 catalog: Chek-It Products, Inc. W 7385 C.T.H. ZN, Onalaska, WI 54650 (608) 781-6500 (608) 781-6501 (fax) — <—Stan Siatkowski – Toronto Archery Supply—<<<<< Stan, Terrie & Jen, with Mookie, Psycho, Cecil & Cocoa in Toronto

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Does any one know what has happened to Chek-It Company, there phones have been disconnected and I was looking for some parts for a site but I am unable to locate them, are they out of business?

Response:

They have gone out of business but I believe their product range has been taken over by x-ring. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Does any one know what has happened to Chek-It Company, there phones have > been disconnected and I was looking for some parts for a site but I am > unable to locate them, are they out of business?

Response:

I do not think they are out of business. I called them and ordered part in december. I am sorry that I donot have their phone number as I am on vaction . However I found them on the web. Good luck John

Response:

They are still sold thru Bowhunters warehouse try calling them.

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