Hunting in LA County

Question:

I have a archery deer tag for LA County that I picked up since I moved to the area.  Anyone out there have any ideas where to start.  I am new to the area an live in Claremont.  Thanks TZ

Response:

Rodeo Drive?  <akkkhhhh> – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I have a archery deer tag for LA County that I picked up since I moved to > the area.  Anyone out there have any ideas where to start.  I am new to the > area an live in Claremont.  Thanks TZ

Response:

Hehehehehe…..now that’s good! Fred > Rodeo Drive?  <akkkhhhh> > I have a archery deer tag for LA County that I picked up since I moved to > the area.  Anyone out there have any ideas where to start.  I am new to the > area an live in Claremont.  Thanks TZ

– "Anyone who thinks Microsoft never does anything truly innovative isn’t paying attention to the part of the company that pushes the state of its art: Microsoft’s legal department."

Response:

The area above Flintridge is productive for Mule deer. Big Bear area has some turkeys. Make sure you have somebody drop you off and pick you up in the Flintridge area. As to the locals are animal lovers and will slash tires of hunters. NOT KIDDING ! There are many areas. Go to the local bowshop. They will tell you where they hear of harvests taken.  Good Luck.

Response:

I grew up in your area, now living in Mississippi, my suggestion would be to contact the California Highway Patrol office in Running Springs.  They spend a lot of time out and about and can probably tell you where they have seen deer on public land.  I had one put me on a very nice buck about 10 years ago!  Hope this helps. "Higgy"

Response:

Archery in the Netherlands?

Question:

I’m about to move from the UK to the Netherlands (The Hague area) and am interested in any information I can get on Archery clubs in the area. Am I likely to have to re-take a beginners course there? (I’ve been shooting weekly for over a year and a half here in the UK) Do they do Field archery there?  How about Traditional Archery (I’ve been shooting an English Longbow quite a bit lately) TIA Al…

Response:

Try: http://holland.archery.start4all.com/ For a club in The Hague: http://www.denhaag.org/~handboog/ If you have been shooting for a year and a half it is very unlikely you will have to take a beginners course. Maybe one of the trainers at the club would like to see you shoot, but I don’t think there will be any problems. We do have field competitions and traditional shooters. I don’t have the URL at hand at the moment, but I will look and post it a.s.a.p. Good luck Ringare – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m about to move from the UK to the Netherlands (The Hague area) and am > interested in any information I can get on Archery clubs in the area. > Am I likely to have to re-take a beginners course there? (I’ve been shooting > weekly for over a year and a half here in the UK) > Do they do Field archery there?  How about Traditional Archery (I’ve been > shooting an English Longbow quite a bit lately) > TIA > Al…

Response:

Hi Where abouts are you moving to? Try the links on the Grand National Archery Society site (GNAS) Yes, there is quite an active field scene here

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m about to move from the UK to the Netherlands (The Hague area) and am > interested in any information I can get on Archery clubs in the area. > Am I likely to have to re-take a beginners course there? (I’ve been shooting > weekly for over a year and a half here in the UK) > Do they do Field archery there?  How about Traditional Archery (I’ve been > shooting an English Longbow quite a bit lately) > TIA > Al…

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hi >Where abouts are you moving to? >Try the links on the Grand National Archery Society site (GNAS) >Yes, there is quite an active field scene here > I’m about to move from the UK to the Netherlands (The Hague area) and am > interested in any information I can get on Archery clubs in the area. > Am I likely to have to re-take a beginners course there? (I’ve been >shooting > weekly for over a year and a half here in the UK) > Do they do Field archery there?  How about Traditional Archery (I’ve been > shooting an English Longbow quite a bit lately) > TIA > Al…

Hi Take a look at http://holland.archery.start4all.com/ You will find a lot of links to dutch archery sites, for the Hague see the "club links Zuid Holland" section. There’s one in the Hague and 2 in Delft (close by). Regards, Peter A&F Custom Kites Werkhoven NL For kitebuilding tips: <http://www.xs4all.nl/~pdj>

Response:

Stabilizer

Question:

Hi: I broke my stabliizer last year while climbing over some blowdowns.  I have shot without one for about 6 months now and have decided that I want to get another on as I have noticed that since mine broke I have trouble holding my bow vertical while aiming.  Any suggestions about hydrolic v. non-hydrolic or maker?  any help would be appreciated. Chris Brown

Response:

>I had the same problem

What worked for me was the "ACE MAGNUM HYDRAULIC STABILIZER" from golden key.  It comes with three additional weight to add on if you like.  I found out I’m more stable and can dial my shot in a tight pattern.  good luck Chris kardassis form The Great White North Canada

Response:

How can I determine what stabilizer to put on my bow? I have a Hoyt Magnatec, 70 # pull. I mainly hunt with this bow, so I don’t want a stabilizer that is to big .

Response:

John, Try the NAP ShockBlcker its fantastic.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> How can I determine what stabilizer to put on my bow? I have a Hoyt > Magnatec, 70 # pull. I mainly hunt with this bow, so I don’t want a > stabilizer that is to big .

Response:

Do what I did, go to your local archery shop and try all the different ones. I took my shop owners advice and tried the " Doinker."  Wasn’t what I went looking for, but after I shot it, I realized it was what I wanted!  ( 7 inches I think)

Response:

Hello everyone    Can any one give me any good sites or addresses of any companies that would be a good source for some carbon fibre tube material to make stabilizer bars. I know that it might be cheaper to buy one, but being a machinist, I do like making some of the toys that I play with. Any help would be appreciated.                                   Thanks   Dave

Response:

Hi, I think the stabilizers are made out of carbon fiber rods.  I did a search and found the following site. http://www.centralhobbies.com/Accessories/carbrod.html They list rods from 1/8-3/16" up to 36" long. Bill * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

Response:

>   Can any one give me any good sites or addresses of any companies that >would be a good source for some carbon fibre tube material to make >stabilizer bars.

When I was into model airplanes I bought a bunch of carbon tubes from an outfit named something like AeroSpace Composites. Check the rec.models.xxx.xxx groups or do a Web search.  A Dejanews search on rec.models….. for AeroSpace Composites might lead you in the right direction.

Response:

: Hello everyone :    Can any one give me any good sites or addresses of any companies that : would be a good source for some carbon fibre tube material to make : stabilizer bars. I know that it might be cheaper to buy one, but being a : machinist, I do like making some of the toys that I play with. Any help : would be appreciated. Dave, Sure!  I made one a couple years ago and really like it.  I went for very light and long with a standard 5/16"-24 stud in each end for bow/weight attachment.  I found an excellent place for small quantity carbon tube purchases: AEROSPACE COMPOSITE PRODUCTS 14210 Doolittle Drive San Leandro, Ca 94577 Order Desk:800-811-2009 Technical Asst:510-352-2022 FAX:510-352-2021 http://www.deltronix.com/public/acp/ACP-CAT.HTM I used the 3/4" ID tube and it is very, very stiff.  I’ve been threatening to make another out or 1/2" or multiple 1/4" but haven’t done it yet.  One thing I did find was that the bow attach end had to be an outsert as there is enough force that I split the tube initially when I was using an insert: Bow attach end:                          __|  |                         |__|–| I made the side walls surrounding the tube 1/8" thick and the base 1/4" thick, drilled and tapped and used a 5/16"-24 SS Socket Head Cap Screw locktited in place.  Roughed up the outside of the tube and inside of the sleeve and glued it in with 24 hour epoxy.  It’s helpful to align the tube/sleeve on a lathe while gluing as the OD of the tube is not exact since it’s wound on a drill rod blank, the ID is good, I chucked the sleeve and put the other end of the tube over a center in the tailstock. Good luck, I’d be interested in hearing what you do and how it turns out. -Scot — ***  ANTI-SPAM ALERT  ***  Note the "removethis." in the return address.  *** Scot E. Heath, P.E.                     "Nothing beats turning clay to dust." Fort Collins, CO

Response:

Well, Carbofast in Ireland or a kite shop but I’ve been going to a local golf club repair shop and asking for their broken carbon shafts.I’ve made a few and they work pretty well. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hello everyone >    Can any one give me any good sites or addresses of any companies that > would be a good source for some carbon fibre tube material to make > stabilizer bars. I know that it might be cheaper to buy one, but being a > machinist, I do like making some of the toys that I play with. Any help > would be appreciated. >                                   Thanks   Dave

Response:

Got any more hints on that ? I am thinking about making my own stabs that way. Could use some veteran advice, so I don`t make the same mistakes. Thanks ! Marc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Well, Carbofast in Ireland or a kite shop but I’ve been going to a local >golf club repair shop and asking for their broken carbon shafts.I’ve made a >few and they work pretty well. > Hello everyone >    Can any one give me any good sites or addresses of any companies that > would be a good source for some carbon fibre tube material to make > stabilizer bars. I know that it might be cheaper to buy one, but being a > machinist, I do like making some of the toys that I play with. Any help > would be appreciated. >                                   Thanks   Dave

Response:

Hello Marc      I’m always glad to help out a fello archer. When I do get a source lined up for the carbon fibre, I will let you know how I made mine, and give you any advise that I possibly can too. I do have a couple of places lined up to get the rods, and as soon as they get back to me, I will get the material, and get started. Be talking to ya soon.                                         Dave – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Got any more hints on that ? I am thinking about making my own stabs > that way. > Could use some veteran advice, so I don`t make the same mistakes. > Thanks ! > Marc >Well, Carbofast in Ireland or a kite shop but I’ve been going to a > local >golf club repair shop and asking for their broken carbon shafts.I’ve > made a >few and they work pretty well. >> Hello everyone >>    Can any one give me any good sites or addresses of any companies > that >> would be a good source for some carbon fibre tube material to make >> stabilizer bars. I know that it might be cheaper to buy one, but > being a >> machinist, I do like making some of the toys that I play with. Any > help >> would be appreciated. >>                                   Thanks   Dave

Response:

Well, the carbon graphite golf shafts tend to break just above the club head so nearly all the shaft is available to use and you can make different lengths, even side rods. I strip off the grip and then trim the club head end up so there are no shattered stringy pieces, usually not much trimming is needed and I use my Dremel tool.The trick, of course is to manufacture some sort of connection to the bow. I start with the correct size bolt or stud for the bow and the correct smaller one for the other end. I’ve tried several options,  so far all aimed at having an internal, glued-in arragement rather than an external ferrule type because I can do the internal stuff in the garage after a trip to the hardware store. I’ve tried a bolt with a head big enough to wedge down into the shaft and then fill in with Bondo (worked OK but the Bondo doesnt bond well and I had to epoxy that in after it cured) to using a stud and nuts and epoxying in the nuts. My current favorite is I found a pretty hard rubber stopper-like thing at a specialty fastener store that fit well into the shaft. It already had a center hole so I greased up a stud with epoxy and screwed it in and let the epoxy set, then glued the rubber into the shaft. So far so good and I rationalize the rubber helps absorb vibrations. The other end is a bit trickier for me because the ID of a golf shaft at that end is quite small although the walls are pretty thick. To get the right size stud in there I’ve had to drill it out a bit and without more equipment than my Black and Decker cordless it is a bit dicey which is to say I’ve drilled out the side of the shaft at least once. However, for one of the kids who didn’t want or need extra weight anyway, I added a bigger rubber stopper thing and glued it on. That’s working just fine and looks like poor man’s Limb Saver. The thing I like about the golf shafts is they are made to take some tremendous forces while keeping a resonance. (not to mention cheap)  If you hold one of the bare shafts at just the right spot, about 2/3 to 3/4 of the way up and tap it on the ground, they feel like a tuning fork. So I’m playing around with these things and trying them on myself and kids who need lightweight but want to look like the big boys. What do I actually use though? I love my new Genisis five-star by Don Kudlacek. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Got any more hints on that ? I am thinking about making my own stabs > that way. > Could use some veteran advice, so I don`t make the same mistakes. > Thanks ! > Marc >Well, Carbofast in Ireland or a kite shop but I’ve been going to a > local >golf club repair shop and asking for their broken carbon shafts.I’ve > made a >few and they work pretty well. >> Hello everyone >>    Can any one give me any good sites or addresses of any companies > that >> would be a good source for some carbon fibre tube material to make >> stabilizer bars. I know that it might be cheaper to buy one, but > being a >> machinist, I do like making some of the toys that I play with. Any > help >> would be appreciated. >>                                   Thanks   Dave

Response:

Check out kite supply places. Carbon kite spars are relatively inexpensive. Two sources in the USA are Hang-em High Fabrics, and the Kite Studio. A list of online kite resources are in www.kfs.org/kites.         Marty Sasaki

Response:

thanks for the advice… Guess I will be spending some time at ACE after I get done begging at the golf shop – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Well, the carbon graphite golf shafts tend to break just above the club >head so nearly all the shaft is available to use and you can make >different lengths, even side rods. I strip off the grip and then trim the >club head end up so there are no shattered stringy pieces, usually not >much trimming is needed and I use my Dremel tool.The trick, of course is >to manufacture some sort of connection to the bow. I start with the >correct size bolt or stud for the bow and the correct smaller one for the >other end. I’ve tried several options,  so far all aimed at having an >internal, glued-in arragement rather than an external ferrule type >because I can do the internal stuff in the garage after a trip to the >hardware store. I’ve tried a bolt with a head big enough to wedge down >into the shaft and then fill in with Bondo (worked OK but the Bondo >doesnt bond well and I had to epoxy that in after it cured) to using a >stud and nuts and epoxying in the nuts. My current favorite is I found a >pretty hard rubber stopper-like thing at a specialty fastener store that >fit well into the shaft. It already had a center hole so I greased up a >stud with epoxy and screwed it in and let the epoxy set, then glued the >rubber into the shaft. So far so good and I rationalize the rubber helps >absorb vibrations. The other end is a bit trickier for me because the ID >of a golf shaft at that end is quite small although the walls are pretty >thick. To get the right size stud in there I’ve had to drill it out a bit >and without more equipment than my Black and Decker cordless it is a bit >dicey which is to say I’ve drilled out the side of the shaft at least >once. However, for one of the kids who didn’t want or need extra weight >anyway, I added a bigger rubber stopper thing and glued it on. That’s >working just fine and looks like poor man’s Limb Saver. >The thing I like about the golf shafts is they are made to take some >tremendous forces while keeping a resonance. (not to mention cheap) If >you hold one of the bare shafts at just the right spot, about 2/3 to 3/4 >of the way up and tap it on the ground, they feel like a tuning fork. >So I’m playing around with these things and trying them on myself and >kids who need lightweight but want to look like the big boys. >What do I actually use though? I love my new Genisis five-star by Don >Kudlacek. > Got any more hints on that ? I am thinking about making my own stabs > that way. > Could use some veteran advice, so I don`t make the same mistakes. > Thanks ! > Marc Hills > >Well, Carbofast in Ireland or a kite shop but I’ve been going to a > local > >golf club repair shop and asking for their broken carbon shafts.I’ve > made a > >few and they work pretty well. > >> Hello everyone > >>    Can any one give me any good sites or addresses of any companies > that > >> would be a good source for some carbon fibre tube material to make > >> stabilizer bars. I know that it might be cheaper to buy one, but > being a > >> machinist, I do like making some of the toys that I play with. Any > help > >> would be appreciated. > >>                                   Thanks   Dave

Response:

The easiest way would be to buy a couple of carbon arrows; a friend of mine did this and it works beautifully. > Hello everyone >    Can any one give me any good sites or addresses of any companies that > would be a good source for some carbon fibre tube material to make > stabilizer bars. I know that it might be cheaper to buy one, but being a > machinist, I do like making some of the toys that I play with. Any help > would be appreciated. >                                   Thanks   Dave

Before you buy.

Response:

Archery Clubs in London, Ontario, Canada

Question:

Does anyone out there know of any archery clubs in London, Ontario?

Response:

Check the book …

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Does anyone out there know of any archery clubs in London, Ontario?

Response:

Hi Ted: Check with the Archer’s Nook http://mars.execulink.com/~archnook/index.html . They are a Pro Shop based in London Ontario, and I’m sure they can help. They are also a terrific retailer. I’m in Victoria BC, and I order from them despite the fact that they are about 3,000 KM away You may also want to browse the Federation of Canadian Arches’ Web site http://www.fca.ca/ as I’m sure they have a club list. Good luck…. — Mitch Rosenberg Victoria, British Columbia Canada

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Does anyone out there know of any archery clubs in London, Ontario?

Response:

> > Does anyone out there know of any archery clubs in London, Ontario?

Forest City Archers, c/o Penny Poyntz (519) 660-0155

Response:

Thanks to everyone who replied for the information.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > Does anyone out there know of any archery clubs in London, Ontario? > Forest City Archers, c/o Penny Poyntz (519) 660-0155

Response:

Hoyt Radian

Question:

Hello all, A friend of mine is willing to sell me his radian riser.  As I don’t know this riser very well, I would be grateful to hear some info about it. Isn’t this bow designed to shoot with a stabilizer?  I’m a barebow shooter.  Is it possible to shoot this bow without a button (centershot)? Isn’t it a kind of "waste" of such a good quality bow to shoot it barebow? Thank you very much in advance for any answer, Regards, Dom.

Response:

Dom: My apologies if this is a duplicate message–I am confused about how to post replies here. The best place to get the info you want is www.student.utwente.nl/~sagi/.  This is THE bulletin board for target archery, with some of the world’s top archers and coaches.  There has recently been a discussion of various barebow risers there. I can tell you that the Radian has a great cult following among elite archers.  It is not made anymore, so people hoard them.  It is also most definitely not a barebow riser.  It is designed for use with a big stabilizer, and the better barebow risers have more weight below the handle in lieu of a stabilizer.  Also, your friend can sell his Radian easily for good money.  I myself might be interested. Check out Sagi and good luck! –Pat

Response:

To all toxophilites reading the post below.  BE AWARE that the Sag board is not NOT not an  ALT / binary  group, and that you must follow the rules of the board – in essence, to display good, cordial manners and maintain consideration of others and respect for their opinions and perspectives.   No flaming, the SAG board is for LEARNING, not pontificating and being rude.  Stay here in the Alt groups for that<RBG>…. And before you start posting questions over there, try reviewing the archives for key words – you will find a wealth of information, without ever having to ask a (redundant) question.  And lurk long enough to get familiar with how things are done there.  It’s a great place. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > The best place to get the info you want is > www.student.utwente.nl/~sagi/.  This is THE bulletin board for target > archery, with some of the world’s top archers and coaches.  There has > recently been a discussion of various barebow risers there.

Response:

ACK… The participants of the Sagi blackboard are VERY protective of the board and are a fairly tight-knit group… that doesn’t mean that newcomers are not welcome, quite the opposite, just that spammers and idiots will not be tolerated. The search engine/faqs/articles/etc which abound on the site are a great place to start before asking questions.

Response:

Dom: Don’t be intimidated about the Sagi board.  The barebow riser discussion began about halfway down on page 165.  The guy with the question, Richard, concluded that the Spigarelli vbs2001 riser is the favorite current riser for BB because of the variable weight system. They are $400 new from Lancaster Archery.  There has been nothing posted on the board – ever – about the particular suitability of the Radian for BB, so don’t worry.  We’d love to have a good old-fashioned girl like yourself on the board! ;^) –Pat (PBM)

Response:

I may be gone for some time

Question:

Hello all, Sadly, the time has come to make some major decisions. The results of which are: a: I shall not be seen around these parts until mid June of the space year 2001 b: My website shall not be updated until mid June of the space year 2001. c: If you send me an email, it shall be replied to on a Friday. "Why!?" you may ask. The question? The Leaving Certificate examinations, which, in the good old Republic, basically dictate what you do with the rest of your life. My last exam is Applied Mathematics on June 22nd, so I shall return on the afternoon of that very day. Easy now, Ewan — Ewan Oughton www.archery2k.com

Response:

good luck to you on your examinations. Archeryking "Ewan" – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello all, > Sadly, the time has come to make some major decisions. > The results of which are: > a: I shall not be seen around these parts until mid June of the space year > 2001 > b: My website shall not be updated until mid June of the space year 2001. > c: If you send me an email, it shall be replied to on a Friday. > "Why!?" you may ask. The question? The Leaving Certificate examinations, > which, in the good old Republic, basically dictate what you do with the rest > of your life. > My last exam is Applied Mathematics on June 22nd, so I shall return on the > afternoon of that very day. > Easy now, > Ewan > — > Ewan Oughton > www.archery2k.com

Response:

Don’t think of them as exams – think of them as "biscuits" – alot less stressful.   "Ewan" – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hello all, > Sadly, the time has come to make some major decisions. > The results of which are: > a: I shall not be seen around these parts until mid June of the space year > 2001 > b: My website shall not be updated until mid June of the space year 2001. > c: If you send me an email, it shall be replied to on a Friday. > "Why!?" you may ask. The question? The Leaving Certificate examinations, > which, in the good old Republic, basically dictate what you do with the rest > of your life. > My last exam is Applied Mathematics on June 22nd, so I shall return on the > afternoon of that very day. > Easy now, > Ewan > — > Ewan Oughton > www.archery2k.com

Response:

Study hard and ace those exams. We will miss you. Jane "Ewan" – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello all, > Sadly, the time has come to make some major decisions. > The results of which are: > a: I shall not be seen around these parts until mid June of the space year > 2001 > b: My website shall not be updated until mid June of the space year 2001. > c: If you send me an email, it shall be replied to on a Friday. > "Why!?" you may ask. The question? The Leaving Certificate examinations, > which, in the good old Republic, basically dictate what you do with the rest > of your life. > My last exam is Applied Mathematics on June 22nd, so I shall return on the > afternoon of that very day. > Easy now, > Ewan > — > Ewan Oughton > www.archery2k.com

Response:

Stop Spam

Question:

Ever since I started to participate in these archery chat groups I have been receiving an increasing number of SPAM mailings from people usuing our addresses. I talked to my provider and was given the following advice. 1.  Do not answer with "Remove" in the subject line if you are told that this is a way to get off the mailing list.  What this does is confirm to the sender that you are an active email account. 2.  Forword the SPAM message to the provider of the person who sent you the mail.  You do this by replacing the portion of the address before will usually answer you saying that they will look into the problem. Good Luck. * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

Response:

This isn’t really the forum for this, there are whole newsgroups devoted to mail abuse. I tried following one for a while, but the number of messages in it racked up too quickly for me to keep up with. But anyway… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Ever since I started to participate in these archery chat groups I have > been receiving an increasing number of SPAM mailings from people usuing > our addresses. I talked to my provider and was given the following > advice. > 1.  Do not answer with "Remove" in the subject line if you are told > that this is a way to get off the mailing list.  What this does is > confirm to the sender that you are an active email account. Sound advice. > 2.  Forword the SPAM message to the provider of the person who sent you > the mail.  You do this by replacing the portion of the address before > will usually answer you saying that they will look into the problem.

This would be nice if it worked. In practice, most spammers seem to forge their e-mail headers, so locating where the message was sent from is difficult, maybe impossible for thos of us without the time or inclination to go digging into the technicalities. Following up on the "remove" address or any website URLs mentioned may be worthwhile, but they usually seem to be just mail-drop points, and the spammer hasn’t violated THEIR terms of service (usually). I find that at best you get a "we are investigating" message back following a complaint, maybe followed by a "the header was forged" message. And if you close one line of attack, they’ll just switch to another provider. I use a filter to trashcan spam before I see it, note this doesn’t work for new spam, only for stuff I’ve seen before. I also filter out based on a heuristic (I hope no-one I know ever wants to send me stuff with "earn lots!!!" as a subject :-]). A better solution may be to use one of these false return addresses you see people using (the NOSPAM sort of thing), which, hopefully stops the spammers harvesting your real address from the newsgroups. I don’t know how effective this is, as I can’t easily do it, posting as I do through Deja.com. Before you buy.

Response:

Wood arrows

Question:

Gang, I am looking for Two Rivers web address.  I think they are the tradionalist group aren’t they? If so, could you please send it my way?  Thanks, Rick

Response:

<< My guess is you’re looking for "Three Rivers" web site. Yes, they are traditional and have all kinds of good stuff. Try "www.3riversarchery.com" and good luck… >> You are correct. Thanks for responding! Rick

Response:

if you cant find what yo are looking for iv me a yell  .ican find it for you .

Response:

Backyard Shooting—-Newbie Needs Help

Question:

The writer is new to the newsgroup and new to archery. I have taken three lessons and am thoroughly hooked. I am in the process of buying a bow and am looking forward to doing some shooting in my backyard. However, I obviously want to do this safely. The yard is about 200 feet square, and is fenced in on three sides (with the house providing the other "border". The side which would provide the "backdrop" behind the target is wooded and there is about a 50 foot buffer between my back fence and the next very lightly traveled street. Is there any advice that you experts out there in cyberspace might have as to how I can maximize safety? Any advice or direction is appreciated in advance. Thanks. Jim Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

Response:

The main thing is don’t start shooting from 200 ft away, work yourself back to that. And there will be those occasional stray because you lost concentration, or the wind picked up, or you were mauled by a wolverine while shooting, so get yourself a backdrop. I use a few peices of plywood standing up behind my bale. U ussually hit the bail dead center, but better sae than sorry. -Doc (The Archery Impaired King Of The World)

Response:

Check your area laws.  In my area it is unlawful to shoot your bow within 500′ of any dwelling.  If you neighbors are closer than 500′ you must get their permission.  I would recommend a backdrop net (Alternative Archery Services).  I am in a similar situation and can’t really shoot like I would like because kids use the woods behind my house to play and it makes me too nervous. Good Luck, AnchorPt

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The writer is new to the newsgroup and new to archery. I have taken > three lessons and am thoroughly hooked. I am in the process of buying a > bow and am looking forward to doing some shooting in my backyard. > However, I obviously want to do this safely. The yard is about 200 feet > square, and is fenced in on three sides (with the house providing the > other "border". The side which would provide the "backdrop" behind the > target is wooded and there is about a 50 foot buffer between my back > fence and the next very lightly traveled street. Is there any advice > that you experts out there in cyberspace might have as to how I can > maximize safety? > Any advice or direction is appreciated in advance. Thanks. > Jim > Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

Response:

Where to start

Question:

I recently was on vacation and took some archery lessons.  It was a great deal of fun and now I’m hooked, but I can’t seem to find any archery ranges, places for instruction and information about archery leagues in the Washington, DC area. If you know of any, I would appreciate hearing from you.  Thanks, Mark

Response:

You might want to look in the Yellow Pages for your area under "archery and "sporting goods."   When you find an archery store, they will be able to get you going.  Ask for a lead on a certified coach and start there.  Good luck!

Response: