Tuning down compound draw weight

Question:

I purchased a Hoyt Banshee for my oldest son that needs to be tuned down in draw weight. I know to do both limbs equally, but I’m getting a little nervous because I have backed out the allen screws 4 full turns & I don’t want to back out too far & have the limbs detach. Question: Do the allen-bolts have a stop so that I cant back-out too far? (I need to reduce the draw some more and I have 5/16" limb-riser-gap right now.) I don’t have a pro-shop to go to in my area. Sincerely nervous, — Bruce.

Response:

> I purchased a Hoyt Banshee for my oldest son that needs > to be tuned down in draw weight. I know to do both limbs > equally, but I’m getting a little nervous because I have backed >out the allen screws 4 full turns & I don’t want to back out too > far & have the limbs detach. > Question: Do the allen-bolts have a stop so that I cant > back-out too far? (I need to reduce the draw some more and > I have 5/16" limb-riser-gap right now.) I don’t have a pro-shop > to go to in my area.

The allen bolts do NOT have a stop. If you keep undoing them, eventually the thing will just spring apart. I think you can take a Banshee up to 5 full turns and still have enough to shoot on. See if you can find some fishing scales – they go up to about 100# for those ambitious people and draw the bow with them. This will give you an idea of draw weight, and thus how far you have left to go before Bad Things (TM) happen. 7om

Response:

I know very little about compound bow adustments, but is it really safe to adjust a limb under tension like that when you don’t know for sure where the "oops" point is?   I understand that such a bow has a lot of stored energy, that if released while you are working on it, can be fatal. (and didn’t someone very well know in Britain suffer demise as a result of a cable loosing unexpectedly  while in a press on a compound?)   I would counsel taking this bow to a shop rather than seeking to loosen the bolts when you are unsure of how many turns you have left.  If that is out of the question, I would FIRST tighten down the bolt as far as possible, and then back off  from this "known" starting point while I was NOT over the bow, but to the side or even below.  Being a prudent person, (ie, coward)  I would also probably crouch down under the kitchen table while  I  reach around the top to unscrew it.<G>   Use a video camera or a mirror or something to see how many turns I’m backing it off. <RBG> TexARC bravado: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I purchased a Hoyt Banshee for my oldest son that needs >to be tuned down in draw weight. I know to do both limbs >equally, but I’m getting a little nervous because I have backed >out the allen screws 4 full turns & I don’t want to back out too >far & have the limbs detach. >Question: Do the allen-bolts have a stop so that I cant >back-out too far? (I need to reduce the draw some more and >I have 5/16" limb-riser-gap right now.) I don’t have a pro-shop >to go to in my area. >The allen bolts do NOT have a stop. If you keep undoing them, eventually the >thing will just spring apart. I think you can take a Banshee up to 5 full >turns and still have enough to shoot on. See if you can find some fishing >scales – they go up to about 100# for those ambitious people and draw >the bow with them. This will give you an idea of draw weight, and thus how >far you have left to go before Bad Things (TM) happen. >7om

Response:

For a compound with good cables.  The cables will hold the bow together in event of catastrophic limb failure.  I’ve seen compounds break on the firing line.  They fold up and drop straight down in a heap.  As the limb bolts are backed out the pressure on the limbs are decreasing so when and if the bolts pop out it won’t be with a lot of force.  I would mark the limbs, unstring the bow, and back a limb bolt out to see where you are.  It used to be one turn equals 2

Shallow or Deep Hook?

Question:

<sigh> and not a little derring-do: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->http://margo……l?sagibb >Hi! >Where can I find these Sage Boards everyone is talking about? There seems >to >be a wealth of knowlegde hiding there, waiting for me to be read! >menno >>Thanks for that great advice Ed.  Coincidently I have just been reading >some >>of the Sage Boards archives (file 31 I think it was) and stumbled upon a >>discussion of finger problems, finger tab and finger wraps.  Somewhere >in >>those discussions someone mentioned the same thing, draw elbow position. >I >>tried some shots where I purposefully shot with my elbow in different >>positions.  I was surprised at the results.  I did notice that the >string >>did slip on my index finger more readily when I dropped my elbow.  There >>were also differences in where my shots hit the bale.  So I’m gonna work >on >>my elbow and try not to let the string move on my fingers during the >draw >>and anchor. >>I also saw in the archives where many recurve shooters are indeed using >a >>deep hook. >>Norm >>>If your problem is only on the index finger, the problem is most >>>likely your elbow being too high at anchor.  Try using the deep hook, >>>roll the hand verticle and make sure you keep the elbow as level as >>>possible. >>>Ed DeBee >>>NAA Instructor >>>>I’m having the age-old problem of sore fingers.  Actually it is only >my >>>>index finger on my string hand.  I changed from a shallow hook (1st >>knuckle) >>>>to a deep hook (between 1st and 2nd joints) for a more relaxed hand >about >>2 >>>>weeks ago, and it is wreaking havoc on my finger.  I’m going to try >some >>of >>>>the recommended wraps to relieve the problem but was curious what >most >>>>recurve shooters use: shallow or deep hook? >>>>Norm >>>Ed DeBee

Response:

http://margo.student.utwente.nl/cgi-bin/bb/bb.pl?sagibb

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi! > Where can I find these Sage Boards everyone is talking about? There seems to > be a wealth of knowlegde hiding there, waiting for me to be read! > menno > Thanks for that great advice Ed.  Coincidently I have just been reading > some > of the Sage Boards archives (file 31 I think it was) and stumbled upon a > discussion of finger problems, finger tab and finger wraps.  Somewhere in > those discussions someone mentioned the same thing, draw elbow position. > I > tried some shots where I purposefully shot with my elbow in different > positions.  I was surprised at the results.  I did notice that the string > did slip on my index finger more readily when I dropped my elbow.  There > were also differences in where my shots hit the bale.  So I’m gonna work > on > my elbow and try not to let the string move on my fingers during the draw > and anchor. > I also saw in the archives where many recurve shooters are indeed using a > deep hook. > Norm > > If your problem is only on the index finger, the problem is most > > likely your elbow being too high at anchor.  Try using the deep hook, > > roll the hand verticle and make sure you keep the elbow as level as > > possible. > > Ed DeBee > > NAA Instructor > > >I’m having the age-old problem of sore fingers.  Actually it is only my > > >index finger on my string hand.  I changed from a shallow hook (1st > knuckle) > > >to a deep hook (between 1st and 2nd joints) for a more relaxed hand > about > 2 > > >weeks ago, and it is wreaking havoc on my finger.  I’m going to try > some > of > > >the recommended wraps to relieve the problem but was curious what most > > >recurve shooters use: shallow or deep hook? > > >Norm > > Ed DeBee

Response:

Hi! Where can I find these Sage Boards everyone is talking about? There seems to be a wealth of knowlegde hiding there, waiting for me to be read! menno

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks for that great advice Ed.  Coincidently I have just been reading some > of the Sage Boards archives (file 31 I think it was) and stumbled upon a > discussion of finger problems, finger tab and finger wraps.  Somewhere in > those discussions someone mentioned the same thing, draw elbow position. I > tried some shots where I purposefully shot with my elbow in different > positions.  I was surprised at the results.  I did notice that the string > did slip on my index finger more readily when I dropped my elbow.  There > were also differences in where my shots hit the bale.  So I’m gonna work on > my elbow and try not to let the string move on my fingers during the draw > and anchor. > I also saw in the archives where many recurve shooters are indeed using a > deep hook. > Norm > If your problem is only on the index finger, the problem is most > likely your elbow being too high at anchor.  Try using the deep hook, > roll the hand verticle and make sure you keep the elbow as level as > possible. > Ed DeBee > NAA Instructor > >I’m having the age-old problem of sore fingers.  Actually it is only my > >index finger on my string hand.  I changed from a shallow hook (1st > knuckle) > >to a deep hook (between 1st and 2nd joints) for a more relaxed hand about > 2 > >weeks ago, and it is wreaking havoc on my finger.  I’m going to try some > of > >the recommended wraps to relieve the problem but was curious what most > >recurve shooters use: shallow or deep hook? > >Norm > Ed DeBee

Response:

I have sent you the url privately to avoid getting a bunch of ummm, unwanted traffic up there… seems everytime the URL is posted here on the alts, there is a concommitant rise in rude and loutish behavior on the board.   and not a little derring-do: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hi! >Where can I find these Sage Boards everyone is talking about? There seems to >be a wealth of knowlegde hiding there, waiting for me to be read! >menno >Thanks for that great advice Ed.  Coincidently I have just been reading >some >of the Sage Boards archives (file 31 I think it was) and stumbled upon a >discussion of finger problems, finger tab and finger wraps.  Somewhere in >those discussions someone mentioned the same thing, draw elbow position. >I >tried some shots where I purposefully shot with my elbow in different >positions.  I was surprised at the results.  I did notice that the string >did slip on my index finger more readily when I dropped my elbow.  There >were also differences in where my shots hit the bale.  So I’m gonna work >on >my elbow and try not to let the string move on my fingers during the draw >and anchor. >I also saw in the archives where many recurve shooters are indeed using a >deep hook. >Norm >>If your problem is only on the index finger, the problem is most >>likely your elbow being too high at anchor.  Try using the deep hook, >>roll the hand verticle and make sure you keep the elbow as level as >>possible. >>Ed DeBee >>NAA Instructor >>>I’m having the age-old problem of sore fingers.  Actually it is only my >>>index finger on my string hand.  I changed from a shallow hook (1st >knuckle) >>>to a deep hook (between 1st and 2nd joints) for a more relaxed hand >about >2 >>>weeks ago, and it is wreaking havoc on my finger.  I’m going to try >some >of >>>the recommended wraps to relieve the problem but was curious what most >>>recurve shooters use: shallow or deep hook? >>>Norm >>Ed DeBee

Response:

Thanks for that great advice Ed.  Coincidently I have just been reading some of the Sage Boards archives (file 31 I think it was) and stumbled upon a discussion of finger problems, finger tab and finger wraps.  Somewhere in those discussions someone mentioned the same thing, draw elbow position.  I tried some shots where I purposefully shot with my elbow in different positions.  I was surprised at the results.  I did notice that the string did slip on my index finger more readily when I dropped my elbow.  There were also differences in where my shots hit the bale.  So I’m gonna work on my elbow and try not to let the string move on my fingers during the draw and anchor. I also saw in the archives where many recurve shooters are indeed using a deep hook. Norm

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> If your problem is only on the index finger, the problem is most > likely your elbow being too high at anchor.  Try using the deep hook, > roll the hand verticle and make sure you keep the elbow as level as > possible. > Ed DeBee > NAA Instructor >I’m having the age-old problem of sore fingers.  Actually it is only my >index finger on my string hand.  I changed from a shallow hook (1st knuckle) >to a deep hook (between 1st and 2nd joints) for a more relaxed hand about 2 >weeks ago, and it is wreaking havoc on my finger.  I’m going to try some of >the recommended wraps to relieve the problem but was curious what most >recurve shooters use: shallow or deep hook? >Norm > Ed DeBee

Response:

If your problem is only on the index finger, the problem is most likely your elbow being too high at anchor.  Try using the deep hook, roll the hand verticle and make sure you keep the elbow as level as possible. Ed DeBee NAA Instructor >I’m having the age-old problem of sore fingers.  Actually it is only my >index finger on my string hand.  I changed from a shallow hook (1st knuckle) >to a deep hook (between 1st and 2nd joints) for a more relaxed hand about 2 >weeks ago, and it is wreaking havoc on my finger.  I’m going to try some of >the recommended wraps to relieve the problem but was curious what most >recurve shooters use: shallow or deep hook? >Norm

Ed DeBee

Response:

> the recommended wraps to relieve the problem but was curious what most > recurve shooters use: shallow or deep hook?

Deep. MA

Response:

Deep every time, shallow makes for a tense hold.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Seems most of my friends shoot from the first crease ie shallow? > I’m having the age-old problem of sore fingers.  Actually it is only my > index finger on my string hand.  I changed from a shallow hook (1st > knuckle) > to a deep hook (between 1st and 2nd joints) for a more relaxed hand about > 2 > weeks ago, and it is wreaking havoc on my finger.  I’m going to try some > of > the recommended wraps to relieve the problem but was curious what most > recurve shooters use: shallow or deep hook? > Norm

Response:

I’m having the age-old problem of sore fingers.  Actually it is only my index finger on my string hand.  I changed from a shallow hook (1st knuckle) to a deep hook (between 1st and 2nd joints) for a more relaxed hand about 2 weeks ago, and it is wreaking havoc on my finger.  I’m going to try some of the recommended wraps to relieve the problem but was curious what most recurve shooters use: shallow or deep hook? Norm

Response:

Seems most of my friends shoot from the first crease ie shallow?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m having the age-old problem of sore fingers.  Actually it is only my > index finger on my string hand.  I changed from a shallow hook (1st knuckle) > to a deep hook (between 1st and 2nd joints) for a more relaxed hand about 2 > weeks ago, and it is wreaking havoc on my finger.  I’m going to try some of > the recommended wraps to relieve the problem but was curious what most > recurve shooters use: shallow or deep hook? > Norm

Response:

The TSAA is having a fund-raiser by offering an archery SPIRIT DECAL.   2/15/2003 Dear archers and parents of archers, and especially JOAD Instructors and coaches: For a limited time, the Texas State Archery Association is offering a SPIRIT DECAL for archers. You know how there are many vans, suburbans, SUVs, and cars you see which display white decals on the rear windows that show the kid’s name with a sport indicator, such as a soccer ball or a football? Well, now you can spread the image of archery around using a custom-designed archery spirit decal with your kid’s name (or your own) on your car window! There are four separate images, two for male archers and two for female archers, with either compound or recurve bow. You can have your kid’s name added for no additional charge, and if he or she has attained either a state championship or a national championship, Jr. USAT, Jr. World Team, etc., then we will accept your word for that, and you can have that title added as well. These decals are around 6 inches by 7 inches, and cost only $14 each with all proceeds going to the TSAA.   There is a modest $1 fee per address for postage and shipping materials, regardless of how many you buy, so JOAD COACHES, be sure to have all your kids place the order through you and save on postage costs. You can view examples of what the spirit decal will look like at this address: http://texasarchery.org/Photos/Decals/spiritdecals.htm and use the online form to print out your name on the form for ordering. This is a limited time offer – we will accept orders only through March 17, 2003 and your check must accompany your printed order. If you have any questions, feel free to write A.Ron Carmichael, webmaster subscribe to the XFILES JOAD Newsletter by sending an email to   subscribe to the TSAA newsletter by sending an email to  

Response:

Mathews Genesis

Question:

Hi, Does anyone know if this is a good bow? I am looking for a better bow for my 6 year old son. Regards. -Guy

Response:

> Hi, > Does anyone know if this is a good bow? I am looking for a better bow for my > 6 year old son. Regards. -Guy

Guy, A lot of it would depend on the size and strength of your son at 6 yrs.  He really needs to get to a shop (if he hasn’t already) and shoot one.  I shot one about 3 months ago at a shop in Pennsylvania (USA) and was pretty impressed by it.  It’s max draw weight is 25lbs., but I *think* it can be adjusted down a little.  If you know that you want to start your son out on a compound, and that he can handle this particular bow’s weight and draw length (15 inches minimum), then I think you really can’t go wrong with the Genesis.  The best thing is, he can use it for years without having to adjust/change cams or limbs on the bow.  It will draw all the way up to 30", so it is a great starter bow for just about anyone. Chris

Response:

From what I’ve found the Bowtech Rascal would be my suggestion for a compound for a six yeat old. It is a high quality bow, draw weight is adjustable from 10 to 40 pounds, draw length is adjustable from 19 to 25 inches. I tried to convince my eight year old to get one but he had his heart set on a bow he’d already seen (better camo). The recommendation on this one came from a dealer who is himself a Matthews shooter. You can check it out online at www.bowtecharchery.com.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > Does anyone know if this is a good bow? I am looking for a better bow for my > 6 year old son. Regards. -Guy

Response:

Korean TV Special

Question:

It took four days to make a twenty minute segment on Korean archery for the Korean TV network KBS.  There were some small errors (translated subtitles, mainly), but it was, overall, pretty good. http://wwwk.dongguk.ac.kr/~bluelake/goongdo.wmv The resolution is a bit grainy, as the file size had to be kept as low as possible, but it isn’t too bad.  The show is supposed to air internationally, but I don’t know when (I was told it was supposed to be at the same time it aired here in Korea, but I heard from others that it didn’t); so, you might see it in broadcast quality at some point.  It was made in conjunction with the World Cup competition going on here in Korea, so it might be shown at some point during the World Cup on the stations carrying it. Thomas http://www.koreanarchery.org

Response:

Darn good job you did there, Tom. Looking forward to seeing you at B4K or GLLI one of these days. — John Dickmon http://www.benefit4kids.org http://www.sportsmenagainsthunger.org http://www.pathwai.org

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> It took four days to make a twenty minute segment on Korean archery for the > Korean TV network KBS.  There were some small errors (translated subtitles, > mainly), but it was, overall, pretty good. > http://wwwk.dongguk.ac.kr/~bluelake/goongdo.wmv > The resolution is a bit grainy, as the file size had to be kept as low as > possible, but it isn’t too bad.  The show is supposed to air > internationally, but I don’t know when (I was told it was supposed to be at > the same time it aired here in Korea, but I heard from others that it > didn’t); so, you might see it in broadcast quality at some point.  It was > made in conjunction with the World Cup competition going on here in Korea, > so it might be shown at some point during the World Cup on the stations > carrying it. > Thomas > http://www.koreanarchery.org

Response:

There it is! 1:43 into this video an image of a man at full draw, with his drawing hand wayyyyyy passed his ear! When I mime drawing a bow, thats where I end up! Where’s me bow??? (footsteps running off into distance….)

Response:

>an image of a man at full draw, with his drawing hand wayyyyyy >passed his ear! >When I mime drawing a bow, thats where I end up! >Where’s me bow??? (footsteps running off into distance….)

<footsteps scurrying for cover to watch Pete shoot from a safe distance> If you shoot like that, I’m sure the target will be safe. ;o) You’ll be making thumb rings next…

Response:

Does illustrate my problem though. To get the draw onto my back, thats where my hand ends up (in a mime) With my hand further forward, the back is not doing the job properly. Advice? (Thinking about it, my arrows would not be long enough. ARCs piccies of overdraw accident are scary) Pete

Response:

  FITA type target shooting with a Recurve?? If so your "anchor" point should be with your first finger under your chin or the forward part of your jaw, string touching the center of your nose.   Compound with a release or "Traditional" would be different… — —– John Howland —–

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> There it is! > 1:43 into this video > an image of a man at full draw, with his drawing hand wayyyyyy > passed his ear! > When I mime drawing a bow, thats where I end up! > Where’s me bow??? (footsteps running off into distance….)

Response:

If I do that (As I have been since I started in february) My elbow sticks out & my back has very little to do with anything. When I mime without my bow, I feel my shoulders working as my draw elbow comes into a straight line with my bow hand. My draw hand ends up by my lugole (ear!)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->   FITA type target shooting with a Recurve?? If so your "anchor" point > should be with your first finger under your chin or the forward part of your > jaw, string touching the center of your nose. >   Compound with a release or "Traditional" would be different… > — > —– > John Howland > —– > There it is! > 1:43 into this video > an image of a man at full draw, with his drawing hand wayyyyyy > passed his ear! > When I mime drawing a bow, thats where I end up! > Where’s me bow??? (footsteps running off into distance….)

Response:

Pete – there is a book on archery anatomy (that’t the title)-  if you get that, and review all it has to say, AND you are in general conformance with it, then if your hand STILL ends up back by your ear, then you are merely "built that way" , and that is FINE.   We are all of us constructed of various pieces that are NOT the same, and there is a lot of variables that mean that for many things there is no definite "RIGHT" way to accomplish something. http://www.alltheweb.com/search?cat=web&cs=iso-8859-1&l=any&q=%22arch… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > If I do that (As I have been since I started in february) > My elbow sticks out & my back has very little to do with anything. > When I mime without my bow, I feel my shoulders working as my > draw elbow comes into a straight line with my bow hand. > My draw hand ends up by my lugole (ear!) >   FITA type target shooting with a Recurve?? If so your "anchor" point > should be with your first finger under your chin or the forward part of > your > jaw, string touching the center of your nose. >   Compound with a release or "Traditional" would be different… > — > —– > John Howland > —– > > There it is! > > 1:43 into this video > > an image of a man at full draw, with his drawing hand wayyyyyy > > passed his ear! > > When I mime drawing a bow, thats where I end up! > > Where’s me bow??? (footsteps running off into distance….)

– TexARC publicize the sport of Archery! http://www.texasarchery.org Outgoing messages scanned for viruses by Nortons AV 2002

Response:

I think its shirt-off time. grab a training bow & work in front of my coach. (I <think> she can stand it without being sick!) Book on order, Amazon

string & cable

Question:

I use shoot through system with my one-cam compound bow. (medium cam, 60 lbs draw weight, ATA 41”) How many strands are suggested for a string and cable? String and cable material will be FastFlight… Thanks!

Response:

Fast Flight 16-18 strands Fast Flight 2000 18 strands D75 16 strands D75 Thin 18-20 strands Ultra Cam 16 strands S4 10-12 strands S4 Thin 12-14 strands B50, Traditional 16 strands The actual number of strands can vary plus or minus two strands. Also check the link bellow: http://www.brownellco.com/pages/archeryMAIN.html Bowdoctor http://communities.msn.com/archeryrepair – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I use shoot through system with my one-cam compound bow. (medium cam, 60 lbs > draw weight, ATA 41”) > How many strands are suggested for a string and cable? > String and cable material will be FastFlight… > Thanks!

Response:

bow arm

Question:

Should the elbow of the bow arm be locked or slightly bent shooting a compound bow?

Response:

> Should the elbow of the bow arm be locked or slightly bent shooting a > compound bow?

Whatever floats yur boat.  However, a lot of very good shooters shoot with a slightly bent elbow. There is some thought that slightly bent absorbs shock.

Response:

well…if somehow I can convince my coach that, it will be nice. I started off shooting with slightly bent elbow for 7 months now and until today he insisted me to change to locked elbow & moving the kisser forward in an awful manner.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Should the elbow of the bow arm be locked or slightly bent shooting a > compound bow? > Whatever floats yur boat.  However, a lot of very good shooters shoot > with a slightly bent elbow. There is some thought that slightly bent > absorbs shock.

Response:

> well…if somehow I can convince my coach that, it will be nice. > I started off shooting with slightly bent elbow for 7 months now and until > today he insisted me to change to locked elbow & moving the kisser forward > in an awful manner.

Allways remember to question everything. Ask him for a good explanation for his teachings. MA

Response:

  Should be slightly bent – in a ‘natural’ position as if it was hanging at your side. Reason – allows you to hold the bow with less movement, extending it all the way out & locking may produce small movements (shaking). Also may rotate the elbow closer to the string. — Specialty Tech –  Main Boards, CPU, Memory and more… Lake Forest, Calif. (949) 951-7067 www.specialtytech.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> well…if somehow I can convince my coach that, it will be nice. > I started off shooting with slightly bent elbow for 7 months now and until > today he insisted me to change to locked elbow & moving the kisser forward > in an awful manner. > > Should the elbow of the bow arm be locked or slightly bent shooting a > > compound bow? > Whatever floats yur boat.  However, a lot of very good shooters shoot > with a slightly bent elbow. There is some thought that slightly bent > absorbs shock.

Response:

Think of it this way. Stand and relax with your arms by your side. Now lift bow arm to your shoulder height without extending your elbow. Notice that slight bend in the elbow ? Now just rotate your wrist to hold the riser of the bow.. That "should" work best but all archers are different. And it gives a little room for short Brace-Height bows to keep string from hitting forearm. One of my mentors showed me this trick and my field scores went from teens into the 520’s in a Field Round. Hope it works for you too !

Response:

Depends what feels good to you, and produces the tightest groups. The best advice I’ve seen is to try it with a straight arm, a bent arm and a very bent arm and see what gets you good groups. When I say "very bent" I mean reducing your draw length by somewhere on the order of 3 or more inches… Take a look at pictures of Dejan Sitar (2001 world champion) for an example of the "very bent" arm… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Should the elbow of the bow arm be locked or slightly bent shooting a > compound bow?

Response:

> Should the elbow of the bow arm be locked or slightly bent shooting a > compound bow?

I’ve gone through my pics from Las Vegas this year and I have to say a majority of the compound shooters shoot with a slightly bent arm and there were certainly a number of very good shooters.

Response:

slightly bent and you should be relaxed

Response:

> well…if somehow I can convince my coach that, it will be nice. > I started off shooting with slightly bent elbow for 7 months now and until > today he insisted me to change to locked elbow & moving the kisser forward > in an awful manner.

I think it’s MORE important to be comfortable. I shoot with my elbow just out a tad, but know others who find it uncomforable and don’t. We ALL have around the same scores week to week, so I’d say shoot the way you want to. Fred

Response:

>Should the elbow of the bow arm be locked or slightly bent shooting a >compound bow?

Locked for me. Locked with an open hand. (although with my broken-up old arm it probably looks bent in a photograph.;) Otherwise I had a tendency to push or pull or twist the bow slightly at release time. Don’t think there is any ‘right’ answer to this. Your instructor might have noticed you moving the bow forward a bit at release to compensate for the recoil. Many people don’t think they suffer from recoil anticipation. In rifle or pistol training we mix in a blank load and then ask them why the gun barrel is pointed down after they pull the trigger. Obviously not an exercise option for the archer. For us you must concentrate on what I call ‘follow-through’. That is; maintaining form long after release. Locking your elbow may help but being relaxed and comfortable is important.

Response:

Slightly bent     always!    use a finger sling or wrist sling

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Should the elbow of the bow arm be locked or slightly bent shooting a > compound bow?

Response:

well…thanks guys, I myself find it most comfortable shooting with a slightly bent arm. I got a tigher grouping.With my arm straight, I find more it more stressful and not able to get feeling I want.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Slightly bent     always!    use a finger sling or wrist sling > Should the elbow of the bow arm be locked or slightly bent shooting a > compound bow?

Response:

This is an argument that keeps popping up year after year.  There is a simple technique that avoids all of the confusion, is intuitive, and results in the most biomechanically sound solution. Stand with your side (bow arm) to an open door with an imaginary line through your shoulders aligned with the door frame.  Relax your arm at your side and lift it to about the height that it would be while aiming.  Relax the wrist and place the palm of your hand against the edge of the door frame.  You should be standing arms length away from the door so that you are relaxed with your arm extended and hand against the frame.  Now lift your foot on the bow arm side.  This should cause you to put body weight into your bowarm.  Adjust the bowarm position so that you hold the weight with the least effort and most stability.  Now slide your support foot a few more inches away from the door and get the same position of your bowarm and check.  The support for the weight against the door frame should come from alignment of the bones in your arm and shoulder more than muscles.  This is the position that you should use when shooting. Whether you call it straight or bent is irrelevant.  In truth, no one ever has a completely straight or locked elbow.  Generally, hyperextension is not good.   The goal is to find the most efficient alignment of YOUR skeleton to support the force of the draw with the least muscle effort possible.  This is the foundation of good shooting. Too many coaches and shooters cling to terminology and techniques that confuse and are not always effective because that’s what they were taught. Good common sense and a very basic understanding of physics and biomechanics usually leads to simple solutions. FYI, my credeitials are a B.S. in Kinesiology, M.S. in motor behavior with emphasis in biomechanics, former Sport Science consultant to the NAA coaches committee, former member of the USOC and NAA Sport Science Committees, and 20 years of archery experience. Leonard G. Caillouet

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Should the elbow of the bow arm be locked or slightly bent shooting a > compound bow? > Whatever floats yur boat.  However, a lot of very good shooters shoot > with a slightly bent elbow. There is some thought that slightly bent > absorbs shock.

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Archery in Germany??

Question:

Danke !! Ich kan auch Deustch aber Ich bin besser in english.  I will surley looking him up when I am down there!! Best regards Rolf – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I am going to Germany, Kassel and Idar-oberstein. Is there any clubs in that >area where I shoot? I will be there in August / September. > When you are in KASSEL, go to : > Bogensport Zentrum Kassel > Perfect Archery  PRO SHOP > Falk Thiele & Burkhard Gauding > Sandersh

trying a recurve

Question:

At the moment I shoot a compound bow set at 55 lbs But I want a new challenge…so i thought I might try a bare bow Recurve. What is a good poundage for someone just starting to shoot a recurve ? Any help appreciated Trev

Response:

> At the moment I shoot a compound bow set at 55 lbs > But I want a new challenge…so i thought I might try a bare bow Recurve. > What is a good poundage for someone just starting to shoot a recurve ? > Any help appreciated > Trev

Hmmm… I started out from scratch with a 46 lbs bow… after 6 months I re-upped to 56lbs… no problem there. I would surmise that you could easily start with 40-45 lbs. Work with it until you muscles get used to the progressive weight (as opposed to them new-fangled-space -age-star-trek thing-ama-jiggies ) All the best (In addition you don’t need to lug around that tool box..) — Juho Paaso Yet Another diabolical scheme to overthrow the world: http://www.dlc.fi/~jmpaaso

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > At the moment I shoot a compound bow set at 55 lbs > > But I want a new challenge…so i thought I might try a bare bow > Recurve. > > What is a good poundage for someone just starting to shoot a recurve ? > > Any help appreciated > > Trev > I would recommend at most 32# to 36#. > Charlotte

After starting to shoot at age 13 with a 28lb recurve i’ve managed to get up to 38lb now.. The main thing to do is try the bow before you buy.. Take it to a range and shoot a couple of dozen with it.. This will show up if you can or cannot handle this weight for a full round.. Vic XX

Response:

After a bit of a play at the Archery shop I settled on a #40 Samick SpiritRecurve. Thanks everybody for your help Now the fun begins Trev

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> At the moment I shoot a compound bow set at 55 lbs > But I want a new challenge…so i thought I might try a bare bow Recurve. > What is a good poundage for someone just starting to shoot a recurve ? > Any help appreciated > Trev

Response:

Drop away rest setup

Question:

Hey folks Just purchased and am setting up a spigarelli drop away rest for my compound. It comes with the rubber tubing to connect to the cable/s, I also purchased a spring. Anyone have an ideal combination of spring, fastflight, rubber tubing or anything else that’s proved to be reliable, durable and practically maintence free (with the exception of replacing yearly, bi-yearly etc) in regard to setting this type of rest up?!? I’ve just watched the ‘97 world target championships on video, but it’s really hard to pick up what those folks are using, so arrr yeah…. any suggestions are welcome. Cheers!! Stop by and say G’day An Australian Archer http://www.riverland.net.au/~manno/archery/main.htm

Response:

> Hey folks > Just purchased and am setting up a spigarelli drop away rest for my > compound. It comes with the rubber tubing to connect to the cable/s, I > also purchased a spring. Anyone have an ideal combination of spring, > fastflight, rubber tubing or anything else that’s proved to be reliable, > durable and practically maintence free (with the exception of replacing > yearly, bi-yearly etc) in regard to setting this type of rest up?!?

I have used the tubing type peep sights (hunting) and replaced the tube with surgical tubing For some reason it is long lasting and very flexible. I have had the same piece on my hunting bow for over 12 years and no failure(s) yet. > I’ve just watched the ‘97 world target championships on video, but it’s > really hard to pick up what those folks are using, so arrr yeah…. any > suggestions are welcome.

My bet would be (here in California at least) the majority use a plunger and flipper rest. I use the Spigarelli plunger with a spring loaded flipper from Golden Key (no longer in their catalog that I know of) The Beiter or lesser priced magnetic flippers are both very good as well. Hope this helps some wPm — S & B Enterprises                     Sunland, CA ICQ 7349522 …the mountains are calling and I must go… <J.Muir>    Do I look old enough to retire? Well I did!  <Buffalo>

Response:

PA archery?

Question:

I live in Pittsburgh PA and am looking for a place where I can get some lessons in target shooting ( recurve ). I used to be into archery a lot when I was younger and even won a few boy scout tournaments. I want to get back into it ( I’m 21 ) and am looking for some formal training or even a good club. thx.

Response:

> I live in Pittsburgh PA and am looking for a place where I can get some > lessons in target shooting ( recurve ). I used to be into archery a lot when > I was younger and even won a few boy scout tournaments. I want to get back > into it ( I’m 21 ) and am looking for some formal training or even a good > club. thx.

Luke,     I also just moved to Pittsburgh recently.  I’m living up in the north hills.  I just joined the North Side Sportsmen Assc.   They have a nice outdoor practice range that one can shoot up to 50 meters.  Actually, you can probably shoot more, but it’s not marked,so bring your range finder.  (c:  They also have an indoor range, much smaller though.  maybe 30 yards, not sure though. Mostly the club consists of just bowhunters, like myself.  I also shoot some target and 3-d, but only compound.   I have been thinking about getting a target recurve.  Not sure though. Anyway, drop me an email and I can give you a contact name at the club so that you may inquire about lessons, etc. Good luck and welcome back to archery, Mike Crowe

Response:

Another opiton for a Sportsman Cluc is the Clairton Sportsman club on Coal Valley Road.  It is locate just off Rt 885 on Coal Valley road toward the river, not two Rt 51. They have an indoor range, outdoor field range, outdoor line range, and a JOAD prgram on Saturday mornings and afternoons.  For the JOAD ask for Bud. Scott

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I live in Pittsburgh PA and am looking for a place where I can get some > lessons in target shooting ( recurve ). I used to be into archery a lot when > I was younger and even won a few boy scout tournaments. I want to get back > into it ( I’m 21 ) and am looking for some formal training or even a good > club. thx.

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