Information on V5 cams

Question:

I need some information on Vector 5 cams from PSE. I got an offer of two used V5 cams. The seller told me the one cam has got the # V5-5B  and one has # V5-5T. Is it so, that the upper cam has a different number than the lower cam or dont fit this two cams together? And, for which draw length are this cams? — Sven

Response:

Sven they are a matched set.  The V5-5t goes on the top, and the V5-5B goes on the bottem. Very nice cams with a solid wall. Reed – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I need some information on Vector 5 cams from PSE. > I got an offer of two used V5 cams. > The seller told me the one cam has got > the # V5-5B  and one has # V5-5T. > Is it so, that the upper cam has a different number than the lower cam > or dont fit this two cams together? > And, for which draw length are this cams? > — > Sven

Response:

> I need some information on Vector 5 cams from PSE. > I got an offer of two used V5 cams. > The seller told me the one cam has got > the # V5-5B  and one has # V5-5T. > Is it so, that the upper cam has a different number than the lower cam > or dont fit this two cams together? > And, for which draw length are this cams?

It is correct, that Cams have twodifferent Numbers. "B" means "Bottom", "T" means "Top" Cam on your bow.

Response:

> I need some information on Vector 5 cams from PSE. > I got an offer of two used V5 cams. > The seller told me the one cam has got > the # V5-5B  and one has # V5-5T. > Is it so, that the upper cam has a different number than the lower cam > or dont fit this two cams together? > And, for which draw length are this cams?

"B" means the Bottom Cam, "T" means the Top Cam, about Draw length contact www.pse-archery.com

Response:

>Sven they are a matched set.  The V5-5t goes on the top, and the V5-5B goes >on the bottem.

Thanks a lot, but what draw length have the # 5? — Sven

Response:

Sven, what ATA length bow are you putting them on, as that will pay a role in the draw length.  If I recall, on a 41 ATA bow it sould be 29 in the middle of the cam. Reed – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I need some information on Vector 5 cams from PSE. > I got an offer of two used V5 cams. > The seller told me the one cam has got > the # V5-5B  and one has # V5-5T. > Is it so, that the upper cam has a different number than the lower cam > or dont fit this two cams together? > And, for which draw length are this cams? > — > Sven

Response:

>Sven, what ATA length bow are you putting them on

It is a Millenium with 40" ata. — Sven

Response:

I have a Millennium with V5 (#5) cams on it and it is 28" in the center slot. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Sven, what ATA length bow are you putting them on > It is a Millenium with 40" ata. > — > Sven

Response:

>I have a Millennium with V5 (#5) cams on it and it is 28" in the center

draw length modules for Martin Pantera

Question:

Greetings all,         I have a Martin Pantera that is 6 or 7 years old that is currently set at 28" draw length.  Does anyone know where I might find modules necessary to increase the draw length to 30" or 31"?  I have emailed Martin with the same question and am currently waiting for their reply.  All help is much appreciated! Ron

Response:

> I have >emailed Martin with the same question and am currently waiting for >their reply.

I think, that is the only way. I guess that your Pantera has  Z-Cams? — Sven

Response:

Martin are usually pretty good with their technical help – it may take a few days, but they WILL get back to you. J. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Greetings all, >    I have a Martin Pantera that is 6 or 7 years old that is > currently set at 28" draw length.  Does anyone know where I might find > modules necessary to increase the draw length to 30" or 31"?  I have > emailed Martin with the same question and am currently waiting for > their reply.  All help is much appreciated! > Ron

Response:

> Martin are usually pretty good with their technical help – it may take a > few days, but they WILL get back to you.

If you don’t receive an answer in a few days, give Martin a call. I’ve gotten very good advice directly from Martin several times. — Arlington, Massachusetts USA

Response:

says… >Greetings all, >        I have a Martin Pantera that is 6 or 7 years old that is >currently set at 28" draw length.  Does anyone know where I might find >modules necessary to increase the draw length to 30" or 31"?  I have >emailed Martin with the same question and am currently waiting for >their reply.  All help is much appreciated!

What kind of cams are on the bow?   Alex     __O        _-<,_       (_)/ (_)

Response:

>What kind of cams are on the bow?   >Alex     __O >       _-<,_ >      (_)/ (_)

I truthfully don’t know.  I bought this bow off a friend a few years back and never got into the details.  How might I go about identifying the cams I have?  wow, I am sounding more and more ignorant with each post!! lol  Once again, all help is appreciated! Ron

Response:

>I truthfully don’t know.  I bought this bow off a friend a few years >back and never got into the details.  How might I go about identifying >the cams I have?  wow, I am sounding more and more ignorant with each >post!! lol  Once again, all help is appreciated!

Go to: http://www.martinarchery.com/chart/chart.html and try to identify your bow. And: http://www.martinarchery.com/catalog.html Download the catalog. On the first 3 pages you will find a discription of different Martin cams. I assume, as old as the bow is, you got Z-cams or Sonic-cams. Z and Sonic cams looking very similar and the maintaining is very easy. The bow has got a split string harness yet, or steel cables? — Sven

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I truthfully don’t know.  I bought this bow off a friend a few years >back and never got into the details.  How might I go about identifying >the cams I have?  wow, I am sounding more and more ignorant with each >post!! lol  Once again, all help is appreciated! >Go to: >http://www.martinarchery.com/chart/chart.html >and try to identify your bow. >And: >http://www.martinarchery.com/catalog.html >Download the catalog. On the first 3 pages you will find a discription >of different Martin cams. >I assume, as old as the bow is, you got Z-cams or Sonic-cams. >Z and Sonic cams looking very similar and the maintaining is very >easy. >The bow has got a split string harness yet, or steel cables?

http://www.martinarchery.com/chart/mod/ultramod.htm states that the Pantera has Sonic cams. Pity, cause if they were Z cams I probably could have helped you out Regards, Peter A&F Custom Kites Werkhoven NL For kitebuilding tips: <http://www.xs4all.nl/~pdj>

Response:

>http://www.martinarchery.com/chart/mod/ultramod.htm states that the >Pantera has Sonic cams. Pity, cause if they were Z cams I probably >could have helped you out >Regards, Peter >A&F Custom Kites Werkhoven NL >For kitebuilding tips: <http://www.xs4all.nl/~pdj>

I saaw that chart as well.  However, http://www.martinarchery.com/chart/mod/zmod.htm shows a pantera with the Z-cam as well.  Of course I got my hopes up, but after downloading the manual, I do believe I must have the Sonic cams as my cams look similar to the Z cams, but they are not the same.  Thanks Peter for your help! Ron

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Go to: >http://www.martinarchery.com/chart/chart.html >and try to identify your bow. >And: >http://www.martinarchery.com/catalog.html >Download the catalog. On the first 3 pages you will find a discription >of different Martin cams. >I assume, as old as the bow is, you got Z-cams or Sonic-cams. >Z and Sonic cams looking very similar and the maintaining is very >easy. >The bow has got a split string harness yet, or steel cables?

OK.  Did that and after careful consideration I believe I must have sonic cams as my cams look very similar to the z cams, but they are not the same.  Also, I have the steel cables.  Thanks for all your help Sven! Ron

Response:

Opionion on martin Rage Xrg compund bow for target archery

Question:

as header many thanks Robin…

Response:

Can’t speak for the Rage but the Scepter II XRG with Fury cams is superb > as header > many thanks > Robin…

– Stop by and say G’day An Australian Archer http://www.riverland.net.au/~manno/archery/main.htm

Response:

Martin Firecat Compound Bow (Quality?)

Question:

My father bought a Martin Firecat bow over the internet, and I am curious to find out what the quality is of this particular model.  If anyone knows anything, could you let me know.  I want to know more about reliability, accuracy, durability, etc. * Sent from AltaVista http://www.altavista.com Where you can also find related Web Pages, Images, Audios, Videos, News, and Shopping.  Smart is Beautiful

Response:

>My father bought a Martin Firecat bow over the internet, and >I am curious to find out what the quality is of this

It is a little bit outdated bow, but the quality of that bow was very good. I know a lot of people they use it still for target shooting and the scores are great! >particular model.  If anyone knows anything, could you let >me know.  I want to know more about reliability, accuracy, >durability, etc.

Tell me more about the specs, what kind of limbs? XR? XRG? Straight? Which cams? Tri draw flite wheels? Sonic? Z-cams? Steel cable? Fast Flite system? — Sven

Response:

I have the 92 Firecat X-Pro with straight limbs and Sonic wheels 65-80 Lbs. It is a breeze to shoot but is quite heavy.  It will make a good 3D Range bow but is heavy in the woods if you wish to hunt with it.  I do miss the Sonic wheels as they are the easiest to pull even at 80 Lbs and are fairly quiet.  Your father can use this bow for a long time however I would recommend you check the axles on this old bow to ensure they are in good condition and replace if needed to keep it shooting straight.

> My father bought a Martin Firecat bow over the internet, and > I am curious to find out what the quality is of this > particular model.  If anyone knows anything, could you let > me know.  I want to know more about reliability, accuracy, > durability, etc. > * Sent from AltaVista http://www.altavista.com Where you can also find

related Web Pages, Images, Audios, Videos, News, and Shopping.  Smart is Beautiful

Response:

>I would >recommend you check the axles on this old bow to ensure they are in good >condition and replace if needed to keep it shooting straight.

With a little luck, his father got the bow directly from Terry Martin. In that case, it is an unused bow. He sells old Martin bows at eBay. — Sven

Response:

I’m not sure about the type of limbs, but I can find out. It has Z-cams and came wrapped in plastic.  Brand new.  I believe it is 39" axle to axle, 75% let off, and 55-75#.  I don’t know the year of the bow either.  He did get it off of ebay.  I appreciate your replies.  More to come probably tomorrow. * Sent from AltaVista http://www.altavista.com Where you can also find related Web Pages, Images, Audios, Videos, News, and Shopping.  Smart is Beautiful

Response:

>I’m not sure about the type of limbs, but I can find out. >It has Z-cams and came wrapped in plastic.  Brand new.  I

Z-cams are pretty good. Smooth to draw, fast, but also pretty accurate! The Firecat is forgiving. With Z-cams I am sure, he got straight glas limbs. >believe it is 39" axle to axle, 75% let off, and 55-75#.  I >don’t know the year of the bow either.  He did get it off of >ebay.  

Ask him: If the seller was   "sporthouse"  than he got a brand new bow from Terry MARTIN, the oldest son of Gail Martin the boss of MARTIN Archery. In that case a very good deal!!  Full warranty. — Sven

Response:

Advice on Hoyt Bow

Question:

I am about to purchase a new bow and I know I want a Hoyt. I am pretty set on the Striker II target bow but I do have one concern. The minumum draw length is only 25 and I pull 24. My local dealer says that I can put a different string on it and do something to the cams to make it fit me. Has anyone done this before? I don’t want to blow a $800 bow before I get to shoot it. I hate being small but I am sure I am not the only female shooter out there with this problem. Thanks in advance! MD  -> ->     * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

Response:

Interestingly enough, I’ve got a Hoyt Intec on order with the "Power" cams which allow you to tweak the draw length a little bit.  According to the 1999 Hoyt catalog you can get the Striker II with the Carbon Plus 4 limbs (Hoyt’s top ‘o line) and the AccuWheel cams which allow a draw length from 24-31"  It’s all in how you set the bow up.  If you don’t already have one, you should really get the 1999 Hoyt catalog; on the back outside cover is a breakdown of all the possible options to choose from when ordering a Hoyt. Page 45 details the different types of cams and page 47 details the different types of limbs.  So, digest that my archery lovin’ compadre!!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am about to purchase a new bow and I know I want a Hoyt. > I am pretty set on the Striker II target bow but I do have > one concern. The minumum draw length is only 25 and I pull > 24. My local dealer says that I can put a different string > on it and do something to the cams to make it fit me. Has > anyone done this before? I don’t want to blow a $800 bow > before I get to shoot it. I hate being small but I am sure > I am not the only female shooter out there with this > problem. > Thanks in advance! > MD  -> -> > * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * > The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

Response:

    I had a Hoyt Raider (the old model from 8 years ago) that was too short. The 36" string gave about 27.5" draw and I needed a 30".  The BowMan put on a 38" string and all was fine.  The draw weight went up to 77 from 62 tops and I learned a lot about the sport.  It didn’t have a real smooth draw any more but I learned to deal with it.     My oldest son got hooked….Got him a used WhiteTail II from a friend for a song….then the two youngest were watching and I could tell they wanted to join in….I priced the small bows and decided that since Daddy needed a new bow why not put a 35" string on the Hoyt for them to use.  It lowered the draw to where they could comfortably pull it and cut about 1.5 inches off the draw so it fit them well.  They will grow so I can add the 36" string back on and so on until they decide they like the sport enough to want a new bow.     Your BowMan knows his/her stuff. A little shorter string will easily get you there though the draw characteristics may change a bit so have him set one up then try it before you add all the fixin’s. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I am about to purchase a new bow and I know I want a Hoyt. >I am pretty set on the Striker II target bow but I do have >one concern. The minumum draw length is only 25 and I pull >24. My local dealer says that I can put a different string >on it and do something to the cams to make it fit me. Has >anyone done this before? I don’t want to blow a $800 bow >before I get to shoot it. I hate being small but I am sure >I am not the only female shooter out there with this >problem. >Thanks in advance! >MD  -> -> >* Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * >The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

Response:

Misty… To offer the correct advise I’d need to know the exact model Striker2 you’d like t o purchase.  I can give some general recommendations though.  Try to stay away from "making a bow fit" it is best to get one that will fit you right out of the box.  The problem with short stringing is it changes the bow drastically, you’ll loose weight and let off and take the cams out of proper (optimal) position.  I would suggest, if a Striker2 is what you like, is to check out Hoyt’s custom shop and to get a Carbonite limbed model with the Intensity youth cam, this makes a very nice short draw bow. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am about to purchase a new bow and I know I want a Hoyt. > I am pretty set on the Striker II target bow but I do have > one concern. The minumum draw length is only 25 and I pull > 24. My local dealer says that I can put a different string > on it and do something to the cams to make it fit me. Has > anyone done this before? I don’t want to blow a $800 bow > before I get to shoot it. I hate being small but I am sure > I am not the only female shooter out there with this > problem. > Thanks in advance!

Response:

M.D., I currently own a new Striker II with redline limbs and HO cam.  I shoot 26 1/2 inches.  I bought it for $580 not $800.  You have to be careful when talking about draw length because it varies based on your type of shooting.  I find the 26 1/2 inch draw length too short for shooting with fingers.  However, I am shooting with a back tension release and the draw length is perfect.  So, if you are shooting with a release you may find that 24" is still too long, and then what do you do with the bow.  Do not buy a bow with too long of a draw length, because you will regret doing so.  I would order the Striker II with the limb and cam/wheel combo that fits you.  If you shorten the draw on a bow the letoff percentage changes in a not so favorable way as it decreases, making the bow harder to hold back.  I would call Hoyt and get their current 1999 catalog and check out their options.  I think most women shoot the Striker II with split limb design and cams, but check it out first. SAm – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I am about to purchase a new bow and I know I want a Hoyt. > I am pretty set on the Striker II target bow but I do have > one concern. The minumum draw length is only 25 and I pull > 24. My local dealer says that I can put a different string > on it and do something to the cams to make it fit me. Has > anyone done this before? I don’t want to blow a $800 bow > before I get to shoot it. I hate being small but I am sure > I am not the only female shooter out there with this > problem. > Thanks in advance! > MD  -> -> > * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * > The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

Response:

No your not the only short draw woman out there, I am 24.5 inches and I shoot an accutec and a powertech (both with carbonite limbs).  My accutec is set with an accuwheel and my powertec has a command cam.   I shoot FITA style with both bows and am able to get the 70 meter distance very well with 50 lbs, with lots of sight window to spare. Email me if you would like more specifics Ann

Response:

Response:

Thanks everyone for the responses! I think you helped me solve my problem. I am going to change my release from a caliper to a back tension which should make my draw length longer. This way I can get the bow I want and I wont have to change it when I get it. Thanks again. * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

Response:

MARTINs Tri Draw Flight wheels

Question:

Hi ALL, anybody out there who shoot a Firecat or a Scepter with this system? Is it possible to get a drawstop for it? — Bye, Sven

Response:

: anybody out there who shoot a Firecat or a Scepter : with this system? : Is it possible to get a drawstop for it? I have a Scepter with the flite wheels and tried all sorts of things to put a draw stop on it. Note of my attempts were successful. Someone suggested  a compound clicker (that worked by placing two stops on your cables and clicked when they came together) but I was unable to purchase such a thing in the USA, perhaps you might be luckier than I. The lack of a definite stop wasn’t so bad indoors, but resulted in inconsistant arrows outdoors. I guess if my form where better (more consistant draw length) this wouldn’t be a problem. I called Martin and they suggested changing to Fury cams, since they had a very sharp/hard wall. Please let me know if you find a solution.        Marty Sasaki

Response:

>I called Martin and they suggested changing to Fury cams, since they >had a very sharp/hard wall.

That is for my Scepter NOT possible, cause I shoot it with XR wooden recurve limbs. Some weeks ago, on a tournament, I saw a shooter with a Firecat, with the same cable and wheels system. He had 2 small pieces of metal. Every piece was set at one cable. At that point where he want that the draw stops, the metal pieces came together and  blocked the draw. I think that was a draw stop. I did  not ask him, cause at that time I had not the Scepter yet. You know what that could be? I never saw it before and never again. If someone knows it, please tell me and tell me where and how to get it. Thanks, — Bye, Sven

Response:

: >I called Martin and they suggested changing to Fury cams, since they : >had a very sharp/hard wall. : That is for my Scepter NOT possible, cause I shoot it with : XR wooden recurve limbs. I have the XR limbs too. This means getting the limbs, and the cams. Too much money… : Some weeks ago, on a tournament, I saw a shooter with : a Firecat, with the same cable and wheels system. : He had 2 small pieces of metal. Every piece was set at one : cable. At that point where he want that the draw stops, : the metal pieces came together and  blocked the draw. I tried the plastic draw stops, but they would not stay in place. I didn’t want to glue them to the cables. Maybe more desparate measures are necessary.     Marty Sasaki

Response:

HI Sven, I tried the draw stops on my Scepter and they worked as long as you didn’t try to pull through too hard. The problem was that no matter how hard you tightened them they slipped on the metal cable ’s plastic covering. If you want to try them look in the 98/99 Quicks catalogue on page 59 item MA51. or look ot their on-line site at www.quicks.com In the end I switched over to Kudlacheck cams and found them excellent with definite speed increase, smoothdraw and positive stop. Give Don a ring and he would make you up a set complete with cables. Best of luck either way. Trev – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hi ALL, >anybody out there who shoot a Firecat or a Scepter >with this system? >Is it possible to get a drawstop for it? >– >Bye, >Sven

Response:

>In the end I switched over to Kudlacheck cams and found them excellent with >definite speed increase, smoothdraw and positive stop. Give Don a ring and >he would make you up a set complete with cables.

Hm, to cams? Witch kind of limbs? I shoot my Scepter with wooden XR limbs. Is it possible to change to cams? Who is Don? — Bye, Sven

Response:

PSE Carrera – Perimeter Weighted Cam

Question:

I talked to a bow shop owner and he told me that the PSE Carrera did not have a perimeter weighted cam.  Is this true?  If so, is there a PSE model that does? — Scott

Response:

> I talked to a bow shop owner and he told me that the PSE Carrera did not have > a perimeter weighted cam.  Is this true?  If so, is there a PSE model that > does? > — > Scott

Hi Scott Check out the new 1999 PSE web site at http://pse-archery.com They show various cams, some of which look as though they have perimeter weighting. Good Shooting Rich

Response:

Scott, I replied to you before about the "Carrera" remember its not a Matthews but the closest replica of the "Perimeter Weighted cam" is the Lightning one cam by PSE .  Bear / Jenning has a Close version of it also. If you have more Questions look us up at    http://www.acsnet.com/~art – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I talked to a bow shop owner and he told me that the PSE Carrera did not have >a perimeter weighted cam.  Is this true?  If so, is there a PSE model that >does? >– >Scott

Response:

PSE won’t be selling this because Xerox Pete got his ass sued by Matthews patent owner, Bear for this total ripoff.

Response:

yes it is true and yes there is it is the driano (i cant thing of how to spell it now ) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I talked to a bow shop owner and he told me that the PSE Carrera did not have > a perimeter weighted cam.  Is this true?  If so, is there a PSE model that > does? > — > Scott

Response:

timing

Question:

I have seen multiple times people mention timing of the two cams and would like to know how to check to see if my bow is timed properly.  It is a PSE fireflite with a fast flite string.  How do you know if the timing is off?  Thanks

Response:

>I have seen multiple times people mention timing of the two cams and >would like to know how to check to see if my bow is timed properly.  It >is a PSE fireflite with a fast flite string.  How do you know if the >timing is off?  Thanks

There are several ways and everyone has their own method.  This is how I do it. First, put an arrow nock on your string and then suspend the bow from the release that you normally use.  If you are using fingers it will be more difficult to get the timing right and you may need someone to help you. With the bow suspended from the release, draw the bow to full draw. Now look at the gap between the cable and the cam module.  This gap should be the same for both cams.  It the gap is not the same, adjust the cables until it is. If you are using fingers, get someone to look at the bow while you draw it to full draw. HTH — Terry M. Trier       Michigan State University When you arrive at a fork in the road, take it.                                 Yogi Berra

Response:

: I have seen multiple times people mention timing of the two cams and : would like to know how to check to see if my bow is timed properly.  It : is a PSE fireflite with a fast flite string.  How do you know if the : timing is off?  Thanks I can actually feel it on my bow, but it has a much sharper valley than your Fireflite.  I like to check timing at peak draw weight, i.e. middle of the draw.  Find a specific feature on your cams, and see if that feature is in the same relative position with respect to each limb at partial draw.  You can do this by either having someone look at it while you hold it, or put it on a bow scale and hold it at partial draw while you look to see if the cams have "rolled over" the same amount.  If they’re not the same, you need to slightly shorten one of the cables to bring them into synchronization. This can be done by twisting the cable slightly.  Make sure you twist it in the direction it’s wound, though.  Hope that helps, Laszlo         Member: Wildlife Legislation Fund of America                 National Rifle Association                 Colorado Bowhunters Association                 Ft. Collins Archery Association      PETA– People for the Eating of Tasty Animals    

Response:

Put the bow on a scale to full draw and look at the cams and if they roll over the same amount they are in time if not then you will need to twist the cable to take up some distance in the cam that has rolled over first. Usually, unless you have the equipment this procedure will take two people.

Response:

: I have seen multiple times people mention timing of the two cams and : would like to know how to check to see if my bow is timed properly.  It : is a PSE fireflite with a fast flite string.  How do you know if the : timing is off?  Thanks This takes two people.  Draw the bow and hold it.  Have the other person check the position of the cams – both should be in exactly the same position, although mirrored.  The string should contact them both in exactly the same place. If the string is different, then the timing is definately off, and the cams are turning over at different times, causing problems with the flight of the arrow. Larry Diehr

Response:

My 94 chevy 350 says to disconnect di timing wire prior to setting timing. Which connection is it? thanks

Response:

My 1995 Suburban was under the dash on the passenger side, right next to the heater blower.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My 94 chevy 350 says to disconnect di timing wire prior to setting timing. > Which connection is it? > thanks

Response:

It’s typically a single connector, brown or tan wire.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My 1995 Suburban was under the dash on the passenger side, right next to the > heater blower. > My 94 chevy 350 says to disconnect di timing wire prior to setting timing. > Which connection is it? > thanks

Response:

I found a tan(I think)with a black stripe and small black connector taped outside the main wires by the heater fan.Is this the one you mean? Thanks

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My 1995 Suburban was under the dash on the passenger side, right next to the > heater blower. > My 94 chevy 350 says to disconnect di timing wire prior to setting timing. > Which connection is it? > thanks

Response:

>I found a tan(I think)with a black stripe and small black connector taped >outside the main wires by the heater fan.Is this the one you mean? >Thanks

Yup, that’s the one.

Response:

Thanks to all!  It is the correct wire.I would never of thought to look there.I would think the DI  timing bypass might be near the distributor. Original owner 80,000 miles and first time I set timing. It was out by 8 degrees.Due to chain strech and gear wear I presume. New plugs,wires,cap,rotor and looking forward to better fuel economy. Next will be new o2 sensor and clean EGT valve. I only see one o2 sensor on single stock exhaust. Please correct me if I’m wrong. Thanks.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My 94 chevy 350 says to disconnect di timing wire prior to setting timing. > Which connection is it? > thanks

Response: