Finger shoot a 75% let-off compound?

Question:

The bow is 40" so thats not a problem for me. I’m more curious about getting a clean release while only holding 20 pounds or less. Is anyone shooting these bows with fingers? I’d sure like to switch over if its not going to be a problem. I think it would help with my traditional shooting if I got my compound shooting as similar as possible.

Response:

Sure, once you get used to the high let-off and low holding weight, there is not much difference. It will take a while to adapt, so don’t get discouraged. Stick with it. 40" axle to axle is short for fingers, in my opinion. 44 to 46 inches is better.

Response:

> 40" axle to axle is short for fingers, in my opinion. 44 to 46 inches is > better.

I’d agree, but I have a 40" bow.  The pinch is really not bad once past let-off. (I think the riser is long enough that its not a problem, I’ll have to try it and see)  I do miss my old 46" Laserflight some days…. Thanks for the input!

Response:

I shoot a 80 % let off bow with a finger tab and do not have a problem with a clean release. I think the big problem in a compound is finding a bow that is long 40 inch is about the right length for a finger shooter otherwise it is hard on your fingers….

Response:

I shoot a 40" bow using gloved fingers.  I started with 65% letoff and went to 50% letoff to try and improve my release.  It made no difference so I went back to 65%, but I do draw into the back wall of the draw curve before releasing the arrow.  I think it improves the crispness of my release.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The bow is 40" so thats not a problem for me. I’m more curious about getting > a clean release while only holding 20 pounds or less. > Is anyone shooting these bows with fingers? > I’d sure like to switch over if its not going to be a problem. I think it > would help with my traditional shooting if I got my compound shooting as > similar as possible.

Response:

A lot depends on the quality of your shot. When beginning to shoot a low poundage bow the tendancy is to ease up a bit and actually shoot a dead release or a fake back tension shot. That’s the reason most shooters try to shoot at the wall, they focus on their form and follow thru at that point. — Cathy Korby Archery Coach

Response:

> A lot depends on the quality of your shot. > When beginning to shoot a low poundage bow > the tendancy is to ease up a bit and actually shoot > a dead release or a fake back tension shot. > That’s the reason most shooters try to shoot at the > wall, they focus on their form and follow thru at > that point.

Cathy, I hope your still watching this thread? I tried the finger release with this bow and now know exactly what you posted about. It is hard to keep from creeping with a hard cam.  I did get better results pulling against the wall with a constant finger pressure, then pushing away with the bow arm to increase tension for the release. Shooting with a tab seems to work better than the glove too. Probably because of the limited amount of finger space for a 40" bow. I’d call it a success so far. I am much more comfortable shooting with a finger in my mouth for an anchor instead of using a peep to squint through and  a kisser and a low mechanical release anchor point. My main goals in moving to a manual release was so I could shoot with both eyes open, get a higher anchor and most of all, to develop my natural archery skills rather than my "point and shoot" skills. Something I’ll be able to apply to insinctive shooting of the recurve. Another benefit has been improving on my target panic. !

Response:

Bow Part definition

Question:

When looking at specs, what is ‘brace’ height?  How does this relate to riser height?  Finally, is it better to have a shorter or longer brace height? Thanks, mark

Response:

schrob: >When looking at specs, what is ‘brace’ height?  How does this relate to >riser height?  Finally, is it better to have a shorter or longer brace >height?

Dimension from the grip pivot point to inside edge of string measured at 90 degrees with the bow in the undrawn condition. A shorter brace height is better for velocity. (More power stroke.) A higher brace height is better for accuracy and forgiveness. The best description in english is here: http://www.thebowman.com/tbindex.html sp.: http://www.thebowman.com/tb_glossaryindex.html and http://www.thebowman.com/glossary-b.htm HTH — Sven

Response:

Thanks!  This group is great.  I just started archery 2 months ago, and this is the best information source.  I learn more here than in the pro shops. mark – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > schrob: >When looking at specs, what is ‘brace’ height?  How does this relate to >riser height?  Finally, is it better to have a shorter or longer brace >height? > Dimension from the grip pivot point to inside edge of string measured > at 90 degrees with the bow in the undrawn condition. > A shorter brace height is better for velocity. (More power stroke.) > A higher brace height is better for accuracy and forgiveness. > The best description in english is here: > http://www.thebowman.com/tbindex.html > sp.: http://www.thebowman.com/tb_glossaryindex.html > and http://www.thebowman.com/glossary-b.htm > HTH > — > Sven

Response:

Mark, brace height is the distance between the string and the low point of the grip. The shorter the BH, the less forgiving (and faster) the bow gets. Think of it this way, the shorter the BH, the longer the arrow is on the string. Any bow movement by you (like dropping your bow arm) while the arrow is still on the string will make your arrow go places you didn’t want it to. Bows made for speed (ie. 3D bows), generally have a shorter BH. Bows made for target shooting (indoor spots for example) generally have a longer BH because speed is NOT important,  accuracy and forgiveness are. I would not recommend a short BH bow for a beginner (under 7" or so). Charlie – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > When looking at specs, what is ‘brace’ height?  How does this relate to > riser height?  Finally, is it better to have a shorter or longer brace > height? > Thanks, > mark

Response:

schrob: >I learn more here than in the pro shops.

Sure, in your pro shop you have 2 or maybe 3 experts. Here you have got thousands.  :-))) — Sven

Response:

oriental archery

Question:

In Hungary, where I live at the moment, there are quite a number of excellent oriental-type bows available: traditional Hungarian and Turkish recurves, etc (some local makes and some imports from Korea and elsewhere).  I can shoot them fine with fingers, but the traditional way is with a thunb ring.  Making a thumb ring does not seem to be much of a problem, but I need advice on its employment. I read somewhere, that with thumb release you put the arrow on the same side as the release hand (as the Japaneese do).  Is this the case?  Is this a procedure required by tradition, or requred by physics? Thanks for your advice. Peter Kiss Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

Response:

> Making a thumb ring does not seem to be much >of a problem, but I need advice on its employment. >I read somewhere, that with thumb release you put the arrow on the same >side as the release hand (as the Japaneese do).  Is this the case?  Is >this a procedure required by tradition, or requred by physics?

Peter, When using the thumb ring release, the arrow will go on the opposite side from when you use a three-finger release.  The reason being, when using a t-ring, the index finger of your draw hand pushes the arrow into the bow; if you had it on the same side as the 3F, it would tend to push the arrow off the bow.  There have been historical exceptions to this, but that is the general rule. As for the correct useage of the t-ring, the string will fit between the ring and thumb at the inner knuckle of the draw hand.  Close your index finger around the thumb, like you are going to flip a coin; you may wish to put a little bit more of your index finger over the thumb tip (whatever makes it feel more comfortable).  When nocked, the arrow will rest in the crease between the thumb and forefinger.  Draw the string back (in Korea, it’s usually near the draw shoulder, with a slightly floating anchor).  When you reach anchor, release by relaxing the draw hand.  Be patient; it usually takes a week or two of steady practice to get used to it. If you give me your address, I’ll send you a two-page pamphlet I made on thumb ring use. Good luck. Thomas http://www.ncmc.cc.mi.us/esl/korarch.html

Response:

> Be patient; it usually >takes a week or two of steady practice to get used to it.

Thomas, you were a child prodigy! the rest of us however….. I’m using a ring I got from Thomas, made in Korea. at 20 yards, I’m averaging 90% hits on a standard 18"? diameter target.I started with the thumb-ring in late March. I’m using a Kassai Mongol, 37# at 32" and arrows by Arrow Art. spine is critical here, since even though the handle is narrow, its still not center-shot.  Nick

Response:

> Be patient; it usually >takes a week or two of steady practice to get used to it. >Thomas, you were a child prodigy! the rest of us however…..

Gee, if at near-forty I’m a child prodigy, my parents, in their 70’s must just be starting the prime of their life!  <G>  I’ll be sure to tell them Thomas

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Making a thumb ring does not seem to be much >of a problem, but I need advice on its employment. >I read somewhere, that with thumb release you put the arrow on the same >side as the release hand (as the Japaneese do).  Is this the case? Is >this a procedure required by tradition, or requred by physics? > Peter, > When using the thumb ring release, the arrow will go on the opposite side > from when you use a three-finger release.  The reason being, when using a > t-ring, the index finger of your draw hand pushes the arrow into the bow; if > you had it on the same side as the 3F, it would tend to push the arrow off > the bow.  There have been historical exceptions to this, but that is the > general rule. > As for the correct useage of the t-ring, the string will fit between the > ring and thumb at the inner knuckle of the draw hand.  Close your index > finger around the thumb, like you are going to flip a coin; you may wish to > put a little bit more of your index finger over the thumb tip (whatever > makes it feel more comfortable).  When nocked, the arrow will rest in the > crease between the thumb and forefinger.  Draw the string back (in Korea, > it’s usually near the draw shoulder, with a slightly floating anchor).  When > you reach anchor, release by relaxing the draw hand.  Be patient; it usually > takes a week or two of steady practice to get used to it. > If you give me your address, I’ll send you a two-page pamphlet I made on > thumb ring use. > Good luck. > Thomas > http://www.ncmc.cc.mi.us/esl/korarch.html

Thomas, Thank you.  I will appreciate the pamphlet.  My address is Peter A. Kiss 2145 Szilasliget Ady E. u. 34 Hungary Peter Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> >I read somewhere, that with thumb release you put the arrow on the >same > >side as the release hand (as the Japaneese do).  Is this the case? >Is > >this a procedure required by tradition, or requred by physics? > Peter, > When using the thumb ring release, the arrow will go on the opposite >side > from when you use a three-finger release.  The reason being, when >using a > t-ring, the index finger of your draw hand pushes the arrow into the >bow; if > you had it on the same side as the 3F, it would tend to push the >arrow off > the bow.  There have been historical exceptions to this, but that is >the > general rule.

The other reason is that on release the string slips off the thumb to the right (for a right handed archer), flexing the arrow nock in the same direction, and the centre of the arrow bows out to the left. Then, while passing the bow’s grip, the arrow centre flexes to the right, clearing the grip without striking it. It takes only a few miliseconds for the two oscillations.  Exactly the opposite happens for a right handed shooter and three finger release with the arrow on the left side of the bow.  As Thomas mentioned, there were and are people who shoot with arrows on the left side, I tried this once and it did not work for me. Adam

Response:

>Thomas, >Thank you.  I will appreciate the pamphlet.  My address is >Peter A. Kiss >2145 Szilasliget >Ady E. u. 34 >Hungary

I’ll have one sent out to you. Best, Thomas

Response:

Ranges in the Minneapolis Area

Question:

>Hi all.  I’m  newbie here in need of some help.  I am currently >attending the University of Minnesota in Minneapolis, and haven’t been >able to find a range which I could reach without a 2 hour one way trip. >My problem is that I don’t have a car so the bus is my only option. >Does anyone know of any ranges close to down town?  If you do please let >me know.  I haven’t shot in 5 months, and am dying of it. >Thanks, >Scott Rich

When I was a kid the Park Board had a number of ranges, it seemed that most of the larger city parks had outdoor targets.  I know of one in Fridley but that would be a long bus ride.  Does the University have a team? let me know what you find, I’m coming back for good next summer.

Response:

You might try either Archer’s Choice in Crystal or Bwana Archery west of the river.  If you go to Archer’s Choice, say hi to Neil and Tim for me. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi all.  I’m  newbie here in need of some help.  I am currently > attending the University of Minnesota in Minneapolis, and haven’t been > able to find a range which I could reach without a 2 hour one way trip. > My problem is that I don’t have a car so the bus is my only option. > Does anyone know of any ranges close to down town?  If you do please let > me know.  I haven’t shot in 5 months, and am dying of it. > Thanks, > Scott Rich

Response:

If you are looking for outdoor ranges there are several Minneapolis Parks ranges that I know of. There is one at Theadore Wirth Park over by the club house, It is not maintained very well and if you miss the backstop your arrow may end up in the water. Secound is a park on the south side of I-94 where the freeway crosses the river. You can shoot some long distances there, but vandals do a lot of damage to the place. It is easily reachable by bus from the U of M area.Third, and by far the best, is the range on the south side of Columbia Golf Course. To get there take the bus up Central Ave. to St. Anthony Parkway.(check your map, I might be wrong about the name). Then it is only about a one block walk, west along the parkway, to the range.  Craig H – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hi all.  I’m  newbie here in need of some help.  I am currently >attending the University of Minnesota in Minneapolis, and haven’t been >able to find a range which I could reach without a 2 hour one way trip. >My problem is that I don’t have a car so the bus is my only option. >Does anyone know of any ranges close to down town?  If you do please let >me know.  I haven’t shot in 5 months, and am dying of it. >Thanks, >Scott Rich > When I was a kid the Park Board had a number of ranges, it seemed that > most of the larger city parks had outdoor targets.  I know of one in > Fridley but that would be a long bus ride.  Does the University have a > team? > let me know what you find, I’m coming back for good next summer.

Response:

Hi all.  I’m  newbie here in need of some help.  I am currently attending the University of Minnesota in Minneapolis, and haven’t been able to find a range which I could reach without a 2 hour one way trip. My problem is that I don’t have a car so the bus is my only option. Does anyone know of any ranges close to down town?  If you do please let me know.  I haven’t shot in 5 months, and am dying of it. Thanks, Scott Rich

Response:

serated broadheads?

Question:

Hello, I was just at WAL-MART of all places and was looking at the broadhead selection. Well, the had some Game Tracker (I believe) broadheads that had serated blades. Now I know that a serated kitchen knife can do hell on my finger, but what about as a broadhead? Good Bad? Thanks, Jeff Green

Response:

Bad idea, stick with razor sharp, straight broadheads.  With a well placed shot you will be rewarded with a quick humane kill and recovery of you game. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hello, > I was just at WAL-MART of all places and was looking at the broadhead selection. > Well, the had some Game Tracker (I believe) broadheads that had serated blades. > Now I know that a serated kitchen knife can do hell on my finger, but what > about as a broadhead? Good Bad? > Thanks, > Jeff Green

  jwinfrey.vcf

< 1K Download

Response:

You should check your hunting reg,s they maybe illeagal for big game.They rip more than cut,more suited for small game were you want the arrow to stay in the animal.

Response:

All good advise so far.  Stay away from serrated blades for large game.

Response:

These things seem to keep coming around like a bad penny… I’m not sure I would even use the steel serrateds. Last ones I used, was the nylon one from Martin, with a Scorpio behind it, for rabbits and the like. Now, for small game I’m using the Magnus T-blunt, with a bleeder blade. I think they work as good, even if I lose a blade occasionally. John Dickmon http://members.aol.com/Razorhead1 Human by Providence Hunter by Instinct Bowhunter by Choice

Response:

W> Hello, W> I was just at WAL-MART of all places and was looking at the broadhead selection. W> Well, the had some Game Tracker (I believe) broadheads that had serated blades. W> Now I know that a serated kitchen knife can do hell on my finger, but what W> about as a broadhead? Good Bad? Hi, just like to share some info I picked up at the knife newsgroup. Serrated blades provide more cutting surface at the expense of a less smoother cut. They cut more aggresively (i.e. they cut ropes,fibres better), but are harder to sharpen. I guess that would be a major consideration when trying to sharpen your broadheads in the field. It seems to me that the "jagged" edge would make it harder to make pass-through shots, but in event of pass-through shots, it would be likely that there would be more blood. Good shooting Lan – Make every shot one shot

Response:

Archery Breathing

Question:

Can anyone give me any advice on some proper methods for breathing in target archery?  IE, when to inhale, exhale…  I want to make this consistent, but I don’t know what to make consistent.  Thanks for all your help!!! -+–Jeff

Response:

Way back when, as a teenager, one of the tactics that was often used was to ask someone whether they inhaled or exhaled as they pulled the string back. Most people don’t know, so they would spend a bit of time being frustrated as they tried inhaling and exhaling. Here’s another plug for "The Simple Art of Winning", by Rick McKinney. Rick looks at how various top archers do it. I find that breathing helps me relax and get centered before beginnng the shot. I inhale as I lift the bow and place an arrow on the string, and exhale placing my fingers on the string. I raise the bow, and inhale, set my grip, check my shoulder and exhale. Then I inhale as I draw the bow back, and begin exhaling as I get to full draw. The exhale is slow, and with any luck (everything else being done properly), the arrow is gone before I’ve completed my exhale. The only problem with establishing a rythm based on relatively deep breathing is when you shoot in an area with lots of air polution. I remember shooting in Pasadena in the late 1960’s and early 1970’s where the air was so full of stuff, that I would take a deep breath and then cough. It’s very difficult to get through the clicker while you are coughing…         Marty Sasaki         PSE Zone

Response:

I would also consider how you draw the bow.  If you use a high draw and lower your arms to your anchor point then breathing out will not conflict in terms of muscular contraction (your ribs expand and raise as you inhale) if you shoot with a level draw then in- or exhaling makes no difference–just  do it the same each time

Response:

> Can anyone give me any advice on some proper methods for breathing in target archery?

One school of thought is to breathe in and then extend the stomach muscles  whilst holding the breathe once done release. The breathing and release should be done without conscieous effortand the breathing technicque should be correcxt before you start to do the other things. The breathing should be practised regularly, set aside at least a small portion of every day to this. Keep the faith Reynauld Greenleaf

Response:

?point blank?

Question:

In another group somebody posted: Adrian Eliot Hodgkin in his book The Archer’s Craft writes: "All I can say with assurance is that the bows I make for myself, according to the methods given here, WEIGH ABOUT 60 lb. and have a point blank-range of SEVENTY-ODD YARDS with birch arrows and SEVENTY TO EIGHTY YARDS with bamboos. By ‘point-blank’ I mean that that range at which the center of the target will be hit when aim is taken in such a way that the arrowhead seems to rest on that center." I don’t have access to the Archer’s Craft so I would like to ask a couple of questions… 1) please explain in words of one sylable what the above paragraph    means. 2) Does the book talk about how frequently Mr. Hodgkin practices? 3) Does anyone here know of anyone who can fairly consistantly    hit bullseyes at 70 yards? Thank you for your time and trouble. Robert

Response:

I’ll try ;-> When I am set up with my longbow, the easiest way to aim (no sights) is to place the point of the arrow on the bullseye and let fly. With my setup, I hit home at around 40 yards. With the authors, the figures he gave. How often do I (or he) actually HIT the bullseye at that range !? Another question entirely ;-> RW – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Adrian Eliot Hodgkin in his book The Archer’s Craft writes: >"All I can say with assurance is that the bows I make for myself, >according to the methods given here, WEIGH ABOUT 60 lb. and have a >point blank-range of SEVENTY-ODD YARDS with birch arrows and SEVENTY >TO EIGHTY YARDS with bamboos. By ‘point-blank’ I mean that that range >at which the center of the target will be hit when aim is taken in >such a way that the arrowhead seems to rest on that center."

Response:

The origin of the phrase point blanc is the distance at which the point of the arrow is aimed on the target at full draw to hit the target. With an under the chin reference (anchor) it will be around 60-70yds. At lesser distances the pont of the arrow will be aimed under the target (blanc) At longer distances the point of the arrow will be over the target. Some how the gun shooters have taken the phrase to mean shooting at short range. We shoot for golds not bullseyes, it is not difficult to get 4 or 5 out of 6 in the gold, with the other 1 or 2 in the red at 60 yds.

Response:

>The origin of the phrase point blanc is the distance at which the point of the >arrow is aimed on the target at full draw to hit the target. With an under the >chin reference (anchor) it will be around 60-70yds. At lesser distances the >pont of the arrow will be aimed under the target (blanc) At longer distances >the point of the arrow will be over the target. Some how the gun shooters have >taken the phrase to mean shooting at short range.

Thank you very much. >We shoot for golds not bullseyes, it is not difficult to get 4 or 5 out of 6 in >the gold, with the other 1 or 2 in the red at 60 yds.

If you would be so kind… Using modern bows I assume? How much practice is assumed here? What is the diameter of the gold? Thanks again for the input. Robert

Response:

I haven’t read Hodgkin’s book either,  but I’m pretty sure what he is discussing is gap shooting.  When he draws the bow back to his anchor point, he then uses the tip of the arrow as an aiming point.  Seventy – eighty yards is quite far, especially for a selfbow, so I would assume he uses a low anchor point, probably something like just below his jaw and possibly as far back as his ear?  And no, I doubt Eliot Hodgin was able to hit CONSISTANT bullseye at those distances.  That is a diffiucult challenge for most sight shooters; however, I’m sure Hodgking was able to establish a grouping in and around the bullseye and thus was able to determine what his point-on distance was for his style of shooting. Stuart Ware

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > In another group somebody posted: > Adrian Eliot Hodgkin in his book The Archer’s Craft writes: > "All I can say with assurance is that the bows I make for myself, > according to the methods given here, WEIGH ABOUT 60 lb. and have a > point blank-range of SEVENTY-ODD YARDS with birch arrows and SEVENTY > TO EIGHTY YARDS with bamboos. By ‘point-blank’ I mean that that range > at which the center of the target will be hit when aim is taken in > such a way that the arrowhead seems to rest on that center." > I don’t have access to the Archer’s Craft so I would like to ask > a couple of questions… > 1) please explain in words of one sylable what the above paragraph >    means.

Draw the bow, line the point of the arrow up with the gold, the point blank range is the distance at which the arrow hits the gold given the above aim. > 2) Does the book talk about how frequently Mr. Hodgkin practices?

sorry I have not seen the book > 3) Does anyone here know of anyone who can fairly consistantly >    hit bullseyes at 70 yards?

Yes, I know at least one shooter (Olympic recurve) who can regularly hit the gold at 70 yards > Thank you for your time and trouble. > Robert

danny www http://euler.ntu.ac.uk/dk/dk.html

Response:

snip > Some how the gun shooters have > taken the phrase to mean shooting at short range.

It also has another meaning. When siting in a rifle, the point blank range is the distance which the bullet travels and does not rise or fall beyond a set measurement. For example, i site my .270 (actually my wife’s) in with zero at approx. 230 yds (if i can remember that is about 2 in. high at 100 yards with 130 grain bullets). The rise of the bullet is about 3.5 in. at 150 yds (approx.) and 4 in low at 280 yds. Theoretically my point blank range is 280 yds., which means that for a deer sized animal i do not have to aim high or low out to 280 yds (aim at the center of the chest and there is 4 in. above and 4 in. below of lung and heart). For small deer and antilope the range would have to be shortened (and the gun resighted) to give 3 in. high and low, and for larger game (moose, elk with a heavier bullet) it may be possible to go to +- 5 or 6 in. Using the point blank range takes a lot of worry out of range estimation at reasonalble distances. Of course you have to be able to see that far, but on the prarries and in the west that is a real possibility (also across fields).         Point blank range (this definition) may not be practical for archery but the methodology may be used to get rid of one or two site pins (say range 0 – 25 yds, 25 – 30 yds etc.) I can’t say much here, i shoot instinctively and have no concept of site pin dynamics (even when i did shoot with a site pin i used only one set at 20 yds, but how quickly we forget). Ray

Response:

Target Panic

Question:

Is there any info about this?  Or, does anyone have suggestions about the definitive cure!  I’m interested. John

Response:

John Richardson wrote :>Is there any info about this?  Or, does anyone have suggestions about >the definitive cure!  I’m interested.

Do you have it?  Many people believe that just saying the "word" will make it infect you. It affects some people more than others.  I’ve seen people who could not shoot the bow at all and fell down trying.  Many people don’t know they have it, and don’t understand why their scores  don’t improve with practice.  There are many treatments but no real cures, once you get it you have to battle it forever.  I recently heard  "Dart-board" players talking about it.  They didn’t call it "target panic" but once they described the symptomes I knew..     Some people can’t hold their sight pin on target without getting nervouse and shaky,  they can hold rock steady under the spot,  over it, or beside it.  These people usually become "Punchers".  They can’t hold on the spot so they try to punch it off as their sight pin crosses over the dot.    That was my problem and this  is what I did to help control it.  I bought "Punch Proof" releases.  I bought a used 4-finger Stanislawski back-tension release ($30) and practiced with it untill I mastered it.  To start all I did was draw and hold with my eyes closed shooting into a bale three feet away.  I had the target picture in my minds eye as I slowly applied back tension and pivot untill the release.  I pictured my arrow hitting the bulls eye.  This release is very freaky, you don’t know when it will go off and it will drive you crazy at first.  Be sure you start trying it very close to the bale.  This release won’t let you punch.  With a couple days practice you’ll get a feel for it.  Stop when you get tired, or you’ll get worse.  Another thing I did was practice holding on the spot without shooting at all.     The stans practice helped me a lot  and I now shoot my scott caliper with back tension.  I put my finger behind the trigger, draw, and anchor. Then I lightly rest my finger on the trigger and keep it very relaxed. While holding on the spot I start slowly increasing back tension, my hand starts slidding back into the wrist strap, the trigger is creeping forward untill it fires itself.    When  the panic takes  over  and my brain wants to punch again, I go back to the stans and start over.    I know my treatment won’t work for everyone and my wife is one of them.  Stans scare her stiff, she just can’t do it.  I got the "answer"  release  for her, it is also punch-proof.  It also scared her because she could not make it shoot.  Eventually she was able to make it work.  If you buy one, get your friends to try it,  especially the ones who claim to have perfect form.   It’s good for laughs, and very educational for them too.    I don’t claim to be an expert and there is more than one way to skin a cat.  This method worked for me maybe someone else will share another.    Everyone who shoots a bow long enough is going to get target panic in some form or another, someday.  They may never know it either.  It is like a disease and the earlier it is detected the easier it is to get it under control.  Repetition of good form is the best way.   "Practice does not make perfect… rather perfect practice makes perfect".  I forget  who said that.  I  heard it said on a PSE video some years back and I believe it sums it all up.   Good luck and I hope you get better, Phil

Response:

> Is there any info about this?  Or, does anyone have suggestions about > the definitive cure!  I’m interested. > John

Among the remedies typically proposed are a clicker (for target archers) and going to a lighter draw weight (for bowhunters.)  I’m not sure that’s definitive enough, but it’s the best I can come up with at the moment. –Pedro

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> Is there any info about this?  Or, does anyone have suggestions about > the definitive cure!  I’m interested. > John

Getting archers to talk about taa…taa…targ.. well you know what, is hard.  I know from personal experience, it aint no fun! I tried rotational aiming.  Basically, you aim at a different spot on the target each time you draw.  you then move from that spot to the spot you wish to hit.  This is supposed to trick your mind because you get on target from all different directions.  Result, not to good! I tried the 21 day plan.  you move up real close to a back stop and shoot at a paper plate size target.  every couple of days you move back from the target and decrease the size of the target.  Supposedly, after 21 days you should be cured. Result, not to good either! These methods or others mentioned in other posts, like the back tension release, may work for you, they just didn’t do didly for me! In the end I was cured literaly overnight.  My brother was coming in from out of town the next day and I knew if he saw me shoot as bad as I was shooting, I was going to catch hell.  Well, walah, no target panic! I guess that kinda shows you it’s all in your head, so just forget it!

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>                                 Target Panic >   Organization: MindSpring Enterprises >   Newsgroups: >          [2]rec.sport.archery >   Followup to: [3]newsgroup(s) >Is there any info about this?  Or, does anyone have suggestions about >the definitive cure!  I’m interested. >John

        I suffer from mild attacks of this ailment every so often, though I know people who have quit shooting because of it. To my way of thinking, target panic is a simple fear of missing. If the pin does not settle out completely and hold absolutely still, the shooter does not want to fire the shot, and therefore ends up punching the trigger as the pin passes the target. Interestingly, some shooters who are rock-steady are also affected, but in a different way. They are afraid that squeezing the trigger will upset the sight picture and spoil a perfect shot.         I cannot hold absolutely steady, but I can hold the pin so that it moves around slightly. When I use a release, (I also shoot with fingers), I simply draw , anchor, lay my trigger finger on the trigger, and when I am satisfied with the sight picture, apply more back tension. If the sight picture degrades, slack off until it improves, then increase again. The shot will go with no real conscious effort on the part of the shooter.         The advantage of this method is that you can concentrate entirely on aiming without being distracted by squeezing the trigger. It sounds a little odd, but it does work.         Once you stop worrying about when to squeeze the trigger, you’ll relax more and shoot better as a result. The same approach applies to finger shooting but is a bit more difficult since you need to be able to relax your fingers smoothly, which I find takes more actual conscious effort. Sean —

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>Is there any info about this?  Or, does anyone have suggestions about >the definitive cure!  I’m interested. >John

John, There are many supposed cures, how many of them are long lasting or merely a temporary respite I am not sure.  However there is any interesting approach given at the following Web site http://www.altservices.co.uk in the Shooting Range advise section. I have this problem to some degree and will give this method a try. Regards, John Golding                  Sennocke Archers, Sevenoaks, Kent                               Invicta Coaching Group

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ladies bow???

Question:

Hi , my wife is presently shooting a pse polaris express and is now looking to purchase a higher performance bow in the mid to high end price range. She is a finger shooter 26" draw length 46 lbs draw weight( but can pull more easily) she has shot a bow with a 37"axel to axel without any finger pinch problems. She is a small person so weight is a factor and she would like something with some speed. We were wondering what models you would suggest us to look at and why.We shoot 3-d tournamenets every weekend but we also hunt so a dual purpose bowwould be ideal. Thanks, Ian

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> Hi , my wife is presently shooting a pse polaris express and is now > looking to purchase a higher performance bow in the mid to high end > price range. She is a finger shooter 26" draw length 46 lbs draw weight( > but can pull more easily) she has shot a bow with a 37"axel to axel > without any finger pinch problems. She is a small person so weight is a > factor and she would like something with some speed. We were wondering > what models you would suggest us to look at and why.We shoot 3-d > tournamenets every weekend but we also hunt so a dual purpose bowwould > be ideal. > Thanks, > Ian

My girlfriend shoots a Hoyt Defiant (now defunct) and loves it, she shoots it at 48lbs, with I believe PC4.5’s and is getting about 275fps.   Really sweet bow to shoot.  I might suggest as a bow to try the Hoyt Enticer.  I think that it is still in production.  Nice and light and pretty quick too. Andrew G

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Have her try the new recurve limb Martin Fury.  You can see it at www.martinarchery.com Terry

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Sorry, the fury doesn’t come that short.  Try the Bengal XRG It is almost as fast. Terry

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Check out the Blue Mountain Line.. I spoke with the V.P of the company about just such a situation and he said the big problem for women is finding an arrow light enough. There is an acc that might fit the bill but I believe its hard to find. The URL for blue mountain is on my home page…. http://www.geocities.com/Colosseum/Track/1491 I hope this is a start.. —

Dan Baker "Far better is it to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs, even though checkered by failure, than to rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy much nor suffer much because they live in the gray twilight that knows neither victory nor defeat." Theodore Roosevelt. http://www.geocities.com/Colosseum/Track/1491

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Plastic adjustable string nock – opinions wanted

Question:

I have always been frustrated tuning my bow with the current string nocks. I have  designed a plastic string nock that is light weight and can be easily adjusted on the string by loosening or tightening the nock. The purpose for the new nock is to make tuning easier and eliminate many of the hassles associated with trying to move a brass nock. Could you give your opinion of the need for a new nock such as this?

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I don’t mean to crash your party but I feel there is already a better method of connecting nock locators. If you look at the bowstring of nearly any long-time competitive archer you will find that they tie their nocking points with No. 4 Dacron Serving Thread. You tie the nocking point on by making a half-square knot on one side of the string, laying the ends over the serving and making another half-square knot on the other side of the serving.  You continue making these half-square knots on each side of the serving for approximately 8 loops and then finish with a square knot.  Cut off the excess string to about 1/4" length and use a match or lighter to burn/melt the free ends.  Use your finger to tap the melted ends over the knots and your nock locator will not come apart.  You should begin your knots where the nock locator comes in contact with the nock and your finish knot should be away from your nock.  Practice this a few times on an old string. You can move this nock locator up and down your string by screwing it up or down around your serving.  It provides very precise tuning adjustment, and if tied snugly, will never move on its own.   I like to also tie a smaller version of this nock locator below the nock (make sure the finish knot is away from your nock).  This prevents your arrow from sliding down the bowstring on the forward stroke of the bow.  If you look at one of Easton’s slow-motion videos, you will see that it is not unusual for your nock to drop down the serving on release. Good Shooting, and keep working on new ideas. Regards, Perry

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> I have always been frustrated tuning my bow with the current string nocks. > I have  designed a plastic string nock that is light weight and can be > easily adjusted on the string by loosening or tightening the nock. The > purpose for the new nock is to make tuning easier and eliminate many of > the hassles associated with trying to move a brass nock. Could you give > your opinion of the need for a new nock such as this?

Browning sells a simialar item. You should be able to sell them too. I’ll take a few myself ….. — *                                   |      Archery       * * Michael P. Sullivan               |     O            *         * Digital Technology Research Lab.  |    <|-|    >–>    * * Motorola Inc.                     |     | /            *         *                                   | Copyright 1995 MPS *

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