Stabilizer

Question:

Hi: I broke my stabliizer last year while climbing over some blowdowns.  I have shot without one for about 6 months now and have decided that I want to get another on as I have noticed that since mine broke I have trouble holding my bow vertical while aiming.  Any suggestions about hydrolic v. non-hydrolic or maker?  any help would be appreciated. Chris Brown

Response:

>I had the same problem

What worked for me was the "ACE MAGNUM HYDRAULIC STABILIZER" from golden key.  It comes with three additional weight to add on if you like.  I found out I’m more stable and can dial my shot in a tight pattern.  good luck Chris kardassis form The Great White North Canada

Response:

How can I determine what stabilizer to put on my bow? I have a Hoyt Magnatec, 70 # pull. I mainly hunt with this bow, so I don’t want a stabilizer that is to big .

Response:

John, Try the NAP ShockBlcker its fantastic.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> How can I determine what stabilizer to put on my bow? I have a Hoyt > Magnatec, 70 # pull. I mainly hunt with this bow, so I don’t want a > stabilizer that is to big .

Response:

Do what I did, go to your local archery shop and try all the different ones. I took my shop owners advice and tried the " Doinker."  Wasn’t what I went looking for, but after I shot it, I realized it was what I wanted!  ( 7 inches I think)

Response:

Hello everyone    Can any one give me any good sites or addresses of any companies that would be a good source for some carbon fibre tube material to make stabilizer bars. I know that it might be cheaper to buy one, but being a machinist, I do like making some of the toys that I play with. Any help would be appreciated.                                   Thanks   Dave

Response:

Hi, I think the stabilizers are made out of carbon fiber rods.  I did a search and found the following site. http://www.centralhobbies.com/Accessories/carbrod.html They list rods from 1/8-3/16" up to 36" long. Bill * Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet’s Discussion Network * The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet – Free!

Response:

>   Can any one give me any good sites or addresses of any companies that >would be a good source for some carbon fibre tube material to make >stabilizer bars.

When I was into model airplanes I bought a bunch of carbon tubes from an outfit named something like AeroSpace Composites. Check the rec.models.xxx.xxx groups or do a Web search.  A Dejanews search on rec.models….. for AeroSpace Composites might lead you in the right direction.

Response:

: Hello everyone :    Can any one give me any good sites or addresses of any companies that : would be a good source for some carbon fibre tube material to make : stabilizer bars. I know that it might be cheaper to buy one, but being a : machinist, I do like making some of the toys that I play with. Any help : would be appreciated. Dave, Sure!  I made one a couple years ago and really like it.  I went for very light and long with a standard 5/16"-24 stud in each end for bow/weight attachment.  I found an excellent place for small quantity carbon tube purchases: AEROSPACE COMPOSITE PRODUCTS 14210 Doolittle Drive San Leandro, Ca 94577 Order Desk:800-811-2009 Technical Asst:510-352-2022 FAX:510-352-2021 http://www.deltronix.com/public/acp/ACP-CAT.HTM I used the 3/4" ID tube and it is very, very stiff.  I’ve been threatening to make another out or 1/2" or multiple 1/4" but haven’t done it yet.  One thing I did find was that the bow attach end had to be an outsert as there is enough force that I split the tube initially when I was using an insert: Bow attach end:                          __|  |                         |__|–| I made the side walls surrounding the tube 1/8" thick and the base 1/4" thick, drilled and tapped and used a 5/16"-24 SS Socket Head Cap Screw locktited in place.  Roughed up the outside of the tube and inside of the sleeve and glued it in with 24 hour epoxy.  It’s helpful to align the tube/sleeve on a lathe while gluing as the OD of the tube is not exact since it’s wound on a drill rod blank, the ID is good, I chucked the sleeve and put the other end of the tube over a center in the tailstock. Good luck, I’d be interested in hearing what you do and how it turns out. -Scot — ***  ANTI-SPAM ALERT  ***  Note the "removethis." in the return address.  *** Scot E. Heath, P.E.                     "Nothing beats turning clay to dust." Fort Collins, CO

Response:

Well, Carbofast in Ireland or a kite shop but I’ve been going to a local golf club repair shop and asking for their broken carbon shafts.I’ve made a few and they work pretty well. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hello everyone >    Can any one give me any good sites or addresses of any companies that > would be a good source for some carbon fibre tube material to make > stabilizer bars. I know that it might be cheaper to buy one, but being a > machinist, I do like making some of the toys that I play with. Any help > would be appreciated. >                                   Thanks   Dave

Response:

Got any more hints on that ? I am thinking about making my own stabs that way. Could use some veteran advice, so I don`t make the same mistakes. Thanks ! Marc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Well, Carbofast in Ireland or a kite shop but I’ve been going to a local >golf club repair shop and asking for their broken carbon shafts.I’ve made a >few and they work pretty well. > Hello everyone >    Can any one give me any good sites or addresses of any companies that > would be a good source for some carbon fibre tube material to make > stabilizer bars. I know that it might be cheaper to buy one, but being a > machinist, I do like making some of the toys that I play with. Any help > would be appreciated. >                                   Thanks   Dave

Response:

Hello Marc      I’m always glad to help out a fello archer. When I do get a source lined up for the carbon fibre, I will let you know how I made mine, and give you any advise that I possibly can too. I do have a couple of places lined up to get the rods, and as soon as they get back to me, I will get the material, and get started. Be talking to ya soon.                                         Dave – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Got any more hints on that ? I am thinking about making my own stabs > that way. > Could use some veteran advice, so I don`t make the same mistakes. > Thanks ! > Marc >Well, Carbofast in Ireland or a kite shop but I’ve been going to a > local >golf club repair shop and asking for their broken carbon shafts.I’ve > made a >few and they work pretty well. >> Hello everyone >>    Can any one give me any good sites or addresses of any companies > that >> would be a good source for some carbon fibre tube material to make >> stabilizer bars. I know that it might be cheaper to buy one, but > being a >> machinist, I do like making some of the toys that I play with. Any > help >> would be appreciated. >>                                   Thanks   Dave

Response:

Well, the carbon graphite golf shafts tend to break just above the club head so nearly all the shaft is available to use and you can make different lengths, even side rods. I strip off the grip and then trim the club head end up so there are no shattered stringy pieces, usually not much trimming is needed and I use my Dremel tool.The trick, of course is to manufacture some sort of connection to the bow. I start with the correct size bolt or stud for the bow and the correct smaller one for the other end. I’ve tried several options,  so far all aimed at having an internal, glued-in arragement rather than an external ferrule type because I can do the internal stuff in the garage after a trip to the hardware store. I’ve tried a bolt with a head big enough to wedge down into the shaft and then fill in with Bondo (worked OK but the Bondo doesnt bond well and I had to epoxy that in after it cured) to using a stud and nuts and epoxying in the nuts. My current favorite is I found a pretty hard rubber stopper-like thing at a specialty fastener store that fit well into the shaft. It already had a center hole so I greased up a stud with epoxy and screwed it in and let the epoxy set, then glued the rubber into the shaft. So far so good and I rationalize the rubber helps absorb vibrations. The other end is a bit trickier for me because the ID of a golf shaft at that end is quite small although the walls are pretty thick. To get the right size stud in there I’ve had to drill it out a bit and without more equipment than my Black and Decker cordless it is a bit dicey which is to say I’ve drilled out the side of the shaft at least once. However, for one of the kids who didn’t want or need extra weight anyway, I added a bigger rubber stopper thing and glued it on. That’s working just fine and looks like poor man’s Limb Saver. The thing I like about the golf shafts is they are made to take some tremendous forces while keeping a resonance. (not to mention cheap)  If you hold one of the bare shafts at just the right spot, about 2/3 to 3/4 of the way up and tap it on the ground, they feel like a tuning fork. So I’m playing around with these things and trying them on myself and kids who need lightweight but want to look like the big boys. What do I actually use though? I love my new Genisis five-star by Don Kudlacek. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Got any more hints on that ? I am thinking about making my own stabs > that way. > Could use some veteran advice, so I don`t make the same mistakes. > Thanks ! > Marc >Well, Carbofast in Ireland or a kite shop but I’ve been going to a > local >golf club repair shop and asking for their broken carbon shafts.I’ve > made a >few and they work pretty well. >> Hello everyone >>    Can any one give me any good sites or addresses of any companies > that >> would be a good source for some carbon fibre tube material to make >> stabilizer bars. I know that it might be cheaper to buy one, but > being a >> machinist, I do like making some of the toys that I play with. Any > help >> would be appreciated. >>                                   Thanks   Dave

Response:

Check out kite supply places. Carbon kite spars are relatively inexpensive. Two sources in the USA are Hang-em High Fabrics, and the Kite Studio. A list of online kite resources are in www.kfs.org/kites.         Marty Sasaki

Response:

thanks for the advice… Guess I will be spending some time at ACE after I get done begging at the golf shop – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Well, the carbon graphite golf shafts tend to break just above the club >head so nearly all the shaft is available to use and you can make >different lengths, even side rods. I strip off the grip and then trim the >club head end up so there are no shattered stringy pieces, usually not >much trimming is needed and I use my Dremel tool.The trick, of course is >to manufacture some sort of connection to the bow. I start with the >correct size bolt or stud for the bow and the correct smaller one for the >other end. I’ve tried several options,  so far all aimed at having an >internal, glued-in arragement rather than an external ferrule type >because I can do the internal stuff in the garage after a trip to the >hardware store. I’ve tried a bolt with a head big enough to wedge down >into the shaft and then fill in with Bondo (worked OK but the Bondo >doesnt bond well and I had to epoxy that in after it cured) to using a >stud and nuts and epoxying in the nuts. My current favorite is I found a >pretty hard rubber stopper-like thing at a specialty fastener store that >fit well into the shaft. It already had a center hole so I greased up a >stud with epoxy and screwed it in and let the epoxy set, then glued the >rubber into the shaft. So far so good and I rationalize the rubber helps >absorb vibrations. The other end is a bit trickier for me because the ID >of a golf shaft at that end is quite small although the walls are pretty >thick. To get the right size stud in there I’ve had to drill it out a bit >and without more equipment than my Black and Decker cordless it is a bit >dicey which is to say I’ve drilled out the side of the shaft at least >once. However, for one of the kids who didn’t want or need extra weight >anyway, I added a bigger rubber stopper thing and glued it on. That’s >working just fine and looks like poor man’s Limb Saver. >The thing I like about the golf shafts is they are made to take some >tremendous forces while keeping a resonance. (not to mention cheap) If >you hold one of the bare shafts at just the right spot, about 2/3 to 3/4 >of the way up and tap it on the ground, they feel like a tuning fork. >So I’m playing around with these things and trying them on myself and >kids who need lightweight but want to look like the big boys. >What do I actually use though? I love my new Genisis five-star by Don >Kudlacek. > Got any more hints on that ? I am thinking about making my own stabs > that way. > Could use some veteran advice, so I don`t make the same mistakes. > Thanks ! > Marc Hills > >Well, Carbofast in Ireland or a kite shop but I’ve been going to a > local > >golf club repair shop and asking for their broken carbon shafts.I’ve > made a > >few and they work pretty well. > >> Hello everyone > >>    Can any one give me any good sites or addresses of any companies > that > >> would be a good source for some carbon fibre tube material to make > >> stabilizer bars. I know that it might be cheaper to buy one, but > being a > >> machinist, I do like making some of the toys that I play with. Any > help > >> would be appreciated. > >>                                   Thanks   Dave

Response:

The easiest way would be to buy a couple of carbon arrows; a friend of mine did this and it works beautifully. > Hello everyone >    Can any one give me any good sites or addresses of any companies that > would be a good source for some carbon fibre tube material to make > stabilizer bars. I know that it might be cheaper to buy one, but being a > machinist, I do like making some of the toys that I play with. Any help > would be appreciated. >                                   Thanks   Dave

Before you buy.

Response:

Recurve New limbs new string?

Question:

  I bought a used PSE Coyote at 50# and being new at this I was in a lot of pain after a few days of practice. So I’ve decided to get some 35# limbs for it and I’m wondering do I need to get a different string when I put the new limbs on the bow? Thanks, Hugh Before you buy.

Response:

:   I bought a used PSE Coyote at 50# and being new at : this I was in a lot of pain after a few days of practice. : So I’ve decided to get some 35# limbs for it and I’m : wondering do I need to get a different string when I put : the new limbs on the bow? : Thanks, : Hugh You can use the same string only if the limbs are the exact same length, since you are going down in draw weight.  Obviously, if the string is worn, you should replace it regardless. The only other thing to watch for is any limitation of the new limbs.  It’s uncommon, but some older limbs won’t take Fastflight string because the tips aren’t built up enough.  If the tips of the old and new limbs look substancially different, you’d better ask an archery shop person about it.  Otherwise, you may be risking catastrophic failure.

Response:

Learning the sport

Question:

I am very interested in taking up archery.  Can anyone put me let me have details of a club local to Hemel Hempstead, Aylesbury, Chesham?

Response:

>I am very interested in taking up archery.  Can anyone put me let me have >details of a club local to Hemel Hempstead, Aylesbury, Chesham?

Go here to find some contact details: http://www.gnas.org/pages/info.htm — Murray

Response:

> I am very interested in taking up archery.  Can anyone put me let me have > details of a club local to Hemel Hempstead, Aylesbury, Chesham?

You’ll be best off talking to the relevant County officers for your area (Buckinghamshire/Hertfordshire by the sound of it). Try the "how to find your local club", bit on: www.gnas.org At a guess there’s probably somewhere in the region of 5 – 10 clubs, in, or close to the area you’ve defined. Before you buy.

Response:

Go to the GNAS site at http://www.gnas.org/home1.htm and click on "find your local club" Donald – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I am very interested in taking up archery.  Can anyone put me let me have > details of a club local to Hemel Hempstead, Aylesbury, Chesham?

Response:

Field archery club details are available at http://www.clark-1.demon.co.uk/nfas/ Look in previous newsletters for current contacts. Danny – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I am very interested in taking up archery.  Can anyone put me let me have > details of a club local to Hemel Hempstead, Aylesbury, Chesham?

Response:

Go to the GNAS web site at http://www.gnas.org where you can get contact details for your county’s archery organisation. There is an archery shop at Buckland, Aston Clinton just outside Aylesbury. Buckland archers are based there they have outdoor and indoor ranges on site. Go to the shop and see Martin Saunders for details. But if you live nearer Hemel Hempstead I am sure there will be clubs nearer to you. >I am very interested in taking up archery.  Can anyone put me let me have >details of a club local to Hemel Hempstead, Aylesbury, Chesham?

– John R Grove

Response:

> But if you live nearer Hemel Hempstead I am sure there will be clubs > nearer to you.

Used to be a fine club in Berkhamstead (guess where I once shot a lemonwood flatbow, made by Slazenger, no less!). But I haven’t been in the UK for 25 years. Ian

Response:

SHAKEY BOW

Question:

       I am finding that when I have my bow drawn back I am not able to hold it steady.  It is just kinda all over the place I can hit my target dead center when i have it steady other wise i am off like 5 inches or so. Any ideas???? Jason

Response:

Jason,  I sounds to me like you are straining too hard when you pull back on the bow. It almost sounds like your muscles are buckling, and you need more stregnth to hold the bow steady (oh to be Stalone). It maight also be that you are overstraining your bow, that would be if the accualy bow itself is shaking, and not jsut your arm.

Response:

You need to limb tune your bow till you can hold steady and the grouping is best. Ronny

Response:

       Check your cam timing first with your limbs at even tiller .If you’re not sure about this procedure check out a local archery shop , they should be happy to help.Good luck

Response:

Martin Fury vs. Hoyt Viper!!

Question:

A buddy of mine runs a archery shop and is a Hoyt dealer he got this new viper in and I have a 96 Martin Fury we shot through the chronograph and we measured weight of the bow measured the draw length and the whole 9 ytds everthing was the same my fury shot 318fps and this new viper that was supposed to be faster shot 295 and we shot a dozen times and still the fury was much faster needless to say i left with a real big smile!! Regaurds Brian

Response:

Just curious .. did you shoot the same arrows?  Was EVERYTHIGN except the bow different?  Like was even the rest the same?  The release was same? Did you change bow between friends?  DId each of you shoot each shot? Although things like a release, rest, sight, etc. everything you think wouldn’t affect speed shouldn’t affect the speed of the bow, it might make a difference.  I’d say really to make sure everything was even, the bows were bare, exact same poundage, same tiller if possible and brace height, u both use the same arrows, and u both shoot each of the bows. Han Su Kim

Response:

> A buddy of mine runs a archery shop and is a Hoyt dealer he got this new viper > in and I have a 96 Martin Fury we shot through the chronograph and we measured > weight of the bow measured the draw length and the whole 9 ytds everthing was > the same my fury shot 318fps and this new viper that was supposed to be faster > shot 295 and we shot a dozen times and still the fury was much faster needless > to say i left with a real big smile!! > Regaurds Brian

This is just my 2 cents worth, but I had to reply because I shoot for Hoyt. I have a 99 Viper with the Redline H.O. setup on it. I set my bow at 66 pounds and I have a 29" draw length. Shawn

Response:

>A buddy of mine runs a archery shop and is a Hoyt dealer he got this new viper >in and I have a 96 Martin Fury we shot through the chronograph and we measured >weight of the bow measured the draw length and the whole 9 ytds everthing was >the same my fury shot 318fps and this new viper that was supposed to be faster >shot 295 and we shot a dozen times and still the fury was much faster needless >to say i left with a real big smile!! >Regaurds Brian

You have to consider, that viper was a new bow. I guess, you have been trimming the fury, for best results. If you would do the same with the viper its speed would increase. Tonny

Response:

 This is for Shawn, Shawn I was wondering how forgiving your viper is I’ve been looking at them and trying to decide on it or not. I realize with a 51/2" brace height it can’t be to forgiving but would like an honest opinion on how it shoots and acts. Rick – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> A buddy of mine runs a archery shop and is a Hoyt dealer he got this new viper > in and I have a 96 Martin Fury we shot through the chronograph and we measured > weight of the bow measured the draw length and the whole 9 ytds everthing was > the same my fury shot 318fps and this new viper that was supposed to be faster > shot 295 and we shot a dozen times and still the fury was much faster needless > to say i left with a real big smile!! > Regaurds Brian > This is just my 2 cents worth, but I had to reply because I shoot for > Hoyt. > I have a 99 Viper with the Redline H.O. setup on it. > I set my bow at 66 pounds and I have a 29" draw length. > Shawn

Response:

Buckmaster?????

Question:

I am buying my first bow. I will use it for hunting. I am thinking about a Jennings Buckmaster. Any opinions??? Bob Kennedy

Response:

Although I don’t own one and I’m not a hunter or big on compounds in general, the Jennings is nto a bad bow for the money.  It seems to do it’s job okay, and for the price it’s not bad at all. Han Su Kim

Response:

  In my opinion the "Buckmaster" is over priced and over rated. There are many fine bows that will out perform at less cost. All you are buying is a name. My wife left!! Wonder who’s gonna clean this deer now?

Response:

>  In my opinion the "Buckmaster" is over priced and over rated. There are many >fine bows that will out perform at less cost. All you are buying is a name.

I second that !!! — Bye, Sven

Response:

>I am buying my first bow. I will use it for hunting. I am thinking about >a Jennings Buckmaster. Any opinions???

Go to: http://listings.ebay.com/aw/listings/list/category383/index.html and look for a  MARTIN FURY. A better bow for a better price. btw: The bows are NEW !!! — Bye, Sven

Response:

I purchased a Buckmaster bow last year and I must tell you I Really like it I dont think you will go wrong with it.It isn’t the fastest bow on the market but is well balanced and shoots very well with great power.I shoot xx78 super slams with 85 gr. tips and overdraw it shoots consistently 250fps. I have enjoyed mine very much. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I am buying my first bow. I will use it for hunting. I am thinking about > a Jennings Buckmaster. Any opinions??? > Bob Kennedy

Response:

Ok bob here is my view on that bow my father and i own a archery shop in ohio and we are a bear/jennings dealer i owend a buckmaster the first year they came out i got ride of mine cause the vibration and how it hit me in my wrist no matter how u hold it it hits u my father still loves his..we sold around 30 last year and had no complants..they have 4 buckmasters for "99" the buckmaster "pwc" which is a great bow  they re desinged it  the seem very nice hope it works out for u if u need any other help write me back

Response:

> I am buying my first bow. I will use it for hunting. I am thinking about > a Jennings Buckmaster. Any opinions??? > Bob Kennedy

After shooting a PSE for 7 years, I wanted a second bow, so I bought a Buckmaster too. With my PSE EDGE 50 50 serie, I got quite few deer, 2 black bears and small game. My buckmaster is still on my wall, waiting that my PSE die, then I`ll use it. Why? It vibrates a lot, too much recoil, the Zebra string and cables stretch way too much(in 2 weeks almost 1 and 1/2 inches) and  it is very noisy. About speed? With the same arrows, same poundage, my old PSE is 27fps faster than the Buckmaster. That is why is still hanging on my wall.

Response:

rather have a Browning BloodBrother or a selfbow. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am buying my first bow. I will use it for hunting. I am thinking > about > a Jennings Buckmaster. Any opinions??? > Bob Kennedy > After shooting a PSE for 7 years, I wanted a second bow, so I bought a > Buckmaster too. With my PSE EDGE 50 50 serie, I got quite few deer, 2 > black bears and small game. My buckmaster is still on my wall, waiting > that my PSE die, then I`ll use it. Why? It vibrates a lot, too much > recoil, the Zebra string and cables stretch way too much(in 2 weeks > almost 1 and 1/2 inches) and  it is very noisy. About speed? With the > same arrows, same poundage, my old PSE is 27fps faster than the > Buckmaster. That is why is still hanging on my wall.

Response:

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Pardon me, Sir, what is that for a bullsh….  ???? — Bye, Sven

Response:

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Your newsreader is corrupt. Or could it really be, that you use a browser for the newsgroups? — Bye, Sven

Response:

I need information on the riser of a bow

Question:

My brother and I have both recently bought a Browning Afterburner and he had recently broke a few strands of his string so he decided to take the bow in and have a new string put on his bow.  This has also happened to me.  While my brothers bow was at the archery shop they had called him to let him know that his riser was twisted.  Now my question, is there any easy way to tell if the riser is either twisted or bent.  If so what are ways to tell.  Also would a good marker or sign of a bent or twisted riser be the constant braking of the cable slide.  I’ve gone through four of them.  Any imput would be great.                                                     Thanks,                                                              Clint Allen

Response:

Well clint and allen theres no advice I can give you except over here in the Scotland no one likes the afterburner because of its split limbs  seems to be full of problems anyhow goodluck with your question. why not trade in and get a Firecat    much better believe me. Yours joe

Response:

Looking for an archery shop job

Question:

Hello, my name is mike and I live in California I am an avid Bowhunter as well as a Target Archer.  I have won many tournaments on the circuit and have six years experience working in an archery shop as a manager as well as an Instructor the shop I worked in closed down a few years ago and I am looking for work again while out of school if any of my fellow archers Know of a place that might be hiring please let me know!!!    If any of you need help with any thing I am always willing to give you some advice for what it is worth thanks again Mike!!

Response:

>Hello, my name is mike and I live in California I am an avid Bowhunter >as well as a Target Archer.  I have won many tournaments on the >circuit and have six years experience working in an archery shop as a >manager as well as an Instructor the shop I worked in closed down a >few years ago and I am looking for work again while out of school if >any of my fellow archers Know of a place that might be hiring please >let me know!!!    If any of you need help with any thing I am always >willing to give you some advice for what it is worth thanks again >Mike!!

testing system

Response: