Posts tagged: Archery

What's the worst bass you ever owned?

Question:

> My worst bass is an Ibanez Destroyer.  Bought it in the 80’s because I > wanted to look cool in the hair band I was in at the time.  Look cool > is all I did, because this thing was a piece of shit and sounded > accordingly.  My $75 Bradley Steinberger copy sounds better than it > did.  I took it to a pawnshop and traded it for a necklace for my > wife.  Best thing I ever did with it.

Ibanez BTB 5-string…  I’ve since been told that I must’ve had a lemon, but there weren’t too many places on that neck where it didn’t buzz.  I took it to my local luthier and he tried all sorts of tricks to help, but the only thing left was to remove the frets, sand the fretboard and then refret it. I sold it… I might add also that the Neutrick jack was bad – every cable I tried slid around and created a storm of static.  Since it was under warranty, I contacted Ibanez and was told that "Neutrick jacks are never defective…" Okay???  Now what?  Well, after several phone calls, I got really p*ssed and wrote a nasty letter.  Then I blanket mailed it (with CC info) to every Ibanez facility on the planet:  West Coast; their PA offices; Japan… Approximately 15 copies addressed to various people… In about two weeks, I received a new jack and an Ibanez T-shirt in the mail. I had to pay to have the jack installed. So, Ibanez not only was my worst bass, it was also my worst experience dealing with a manufacturer of musical instruments. But I’m not bitter… Cheers, Mark

Response:

> The neck was as fat as a telephone pole cut in half, and it was heavier than > a pickup truck full of red necks heading to Sizzler.

LOL!! Sounds like the ‘89 Warwick Thumb 5 neckthrough I owned.  I think it was made out of petrified bubinga. I haven’t really had any bad basses, ever.  Except for my dad’s bass that I started out on.. it was a generic bass, with a generic metal covered pickup, with a crusty volume and tone pot and mile high action.. and flatwounds.  I spray painted it green for some reason. Jordan

Response:

An Eko EB0 copy. Pure crap.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Damn that’s a hard one…"worst" or "most dissappionting"? If it was the > lattter I’d have to say any number of Hofner’s I’ve owned and really tried hard > to like but just couldn’t.

Response:

I take that back.  My Aunt and Uncle owned a rental property and when the tenets moved out they left a Peavey T-40(?) behind.  They kindly offered it to me.  When I finally met up with my them they had huge smiles on their faces as the handed over this *free* bass with a neck so warped it was better suited for an archery range.  I smiled politely and said thanks as "What the …?" went through my head.  The strings were insanely tight. They had no idea that anything was wrong with the bass.  I loosened the strings all the way and let it sit for about a week.  I couldn’t take looking at that horribly warped neck anymore so pitched it into a dumpster. Bud

Response:

Gibson Grabber or might have been the hofner violin… the hofner wouldn’t stay in tune and the gibson was poorly finished…

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My worst bass is an Ibanez Destroyer.  Bought it in the 80’s because I > wanted to look cool in the hair band I was in at the time.  Look cool > is all I did, because this thing was a piece of shit and sounded > accordingly.  My $75 Bradley Steinberger copy sounds better than it > did.  I took it to a pawnshop and traded it for a necklace for my > wife.  Best thing I ever did with it.

Response:

I sure am enjoying these stories of your crappy basses.  Makes me feel like I got off light with my Ibanez Destroyer.  At least it looked cool and had a neck that was playable.  BTW, I will second the notion that Ibanez has the absolute worst customer service in the world.  I have had to deal with them twice, and the person on the other end was a complete asshole the first time making it sound like it was my fault that the bass wasn’t working properly.  The second time I got someone else who promised to send me a wiring diagram and never did.  SO even though I have played many nice Ibanez basses, I will never ever buy one again and I totally recommend that nobody else buys one either. I will take a lawsuit Rick or Jazz if anyone’s giving them away, though ;)

Response:

A Bently P-bass copy that I received as a gift.  It weighed a ton, and the neck was so warped that it was impossible to get the strings to within a playable distance of the fretboard.  The electronics were shot and the nut was destroyed.  As it was my first bass, I didn’t know any of this and painfully learned to play on it.  I also learned how to solder and file a proper nut. Eventually some fool stole it, and I ended up buying a bass that didn’t hurt to play.  It was quite a revelation!

Response:

> This one. > http://tinyurl.com/f31v > That’s not the one I owned but is one just like it.  I bought mine in > 1972 off the captain of our high school wrestling team and tried to > impress girls with it.  I was not successful. > Kept it until I bought my first real bass – a spiffy new ‘75 Precision. > The Univox sucked but I still loved it.

I wish I still had my Hofner bass. No offense intended, but it was tons better looking than the one in your picture. Trying to play American rock and roll on it was a bit of a bummer. But it rocked on the English rock tunes of the era. Ed Cregger

Response:

> I wish I still had my Hofner bass. > No offense intended, but it was tons better looking than the one in > your > picture. > Trying to play American rock and roll on it was a bit of a bummer. > But it > rocked on the English rock tunes of the era.

No offense taken, Ed – that’s not a Hofner, it’s a cheap Univox copy. It was kinda ugly but I only paid $50 for it in 1972. Played like a $50 bass, too  ;-)

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I don’t think I ever bought a Bass I hated. > When I started playing I didn’t know any better, and nowadays I take the > attitude that just about ALL basses (and guitars) have something they do > well and it is up to the player to find and exploit it. > I’ve had a few that I fell out of love with fairly rapidly (notably every > Rickenbacker I ever owned) but even those I only unloaded to make money for > their replacements. > Probably the Basses I liked the least were the Rickenbackers and a Gibson G3 > I had. But they weren’t actually bad basses – they just turned out to be not > my "thing". > Thump

Like you, I never owned a bass that I hated. I guess the worst bass experience I ever had was when I had to use my brother’s Sears (Danelectro) super long scale bass for a few months in the late sixties. I came right from playing a Hofner violin shaped bass with a short scale, to my brother’s poorly finished 6×2" neck equipped alleged bass guitar. It sounded so good when my brother played it, that it really did a number on my ego. Later, after I had my own bass again, I asked to borrow it once to go deer hunting. I figured it would be a great arrow launcher, and if I got close enough to the deer, I could always beat it to death with the bass. My brother was not amused, but he did serve venison later that week… Ed Cregger

Response:

My first bass was the worst.  A big red Kingston hollow body short scale that was in the shape of Rickenbacker guitar (not bass).  Super high action that was never able to be corrected even after two visits to the repair shop.  Second worst was a Fender Bullet bass that I hacked on.  I installed Jackson P-bass replacement pickup.   It sounded terrible. Big thick neck.  Yuk. Bud

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My worst bass is an Ibanez Destroyer.  Bought it in the 80’s because I > wanted to look cool in the hair band I was in at the time.  Look cool > is all I did, because this thing was a piece of shit and sounded > accordingly.  My $75 Bradley Steinberger copy sounds better than it > did.  I took it to a pawnshop and traded it for a necklace for my > wife.  Best thing I ever did with it.

Response:

Mid-80’s Yamaha Motion Bass. Short or Med. scale, I can’t remember – total piece of shit. Couldn’t get a tone out of it to save my soul. I was playing with a rock cover band at the time – Doobies, Wings, Huey Lewis, S&G, that kind of stuff. There was no way to mod this thing without routing etc. Traded it for a Squier Jazz ….. I know, I know, what a step up.

Response:

A friend gave me a Hondo P-bass with a snapped truss rod. Completely unplayable. I could fit my hand between the strings and the neck. Worst bass I ever bought was an ESP B-1. Sounded fine in the store, but was crap at a gig. I gigged with it once and returned it. I also briefly had an Epiphone EB-0. Bought it just for rehearsals, but hated it even for that. My band’s site: www.strongerthandirt.com

Response:

> My worst bass is an Ibanez Destroyer.  Bought it in the 80’s because I > wanted to look cool in the hair band I was in at the time.  Look cool > is all I did, because this thing was a piece of shit and sounded > accordingly.  My $75 Bradley Steinberger copy sounds better than it > did.  I took it to a pawnshop and traded it for a necklace for my > wife.  Best thing I ever did with it.

First bass I owned was a Westone Spectrum II (I think). Cheapest bass in the shop. Horrible.

Response:

Mine was a Squier P, 5 string. Really crappy pickups, and the B was pretty weak. Wes – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Without a doubt, a Guild B-302.  Bought it new for $375 which took a lot of > mowing lawns to save.  I was a stupid young kid, there was only 1 music store > within walking/bus distance and it was the first bass I played with roundwound > strings.  My first bass was a Carlo Robelli [Ibanez] copy of a Rickenbacker > which was a great bass.  The only thing I didn’t like about it was the sound > and feel [WAIT].  What I realized was the cause was that when I bought it, I > thought rough strings would be painful so I bought a set of Rotosound heavy > flats which I found very difficult.  When I played the Guild, it had light > roundwounds which I found easy and loved the piano-like tone so I assumed it > was a better bass.  I traded the Rick copy that I bought at that store for > $150.  [As an aside, they gave me $115 for it and later re-sold it for $175 > which really pissed me off after the way he told me it was not worth much and > he'd be lucky to get what I last paid for it--not a way to get a future sale > from me].  So I get the Guild home.  Put my strap on [calm down] and watch the > neck dive to the ground.  Worst balance ever.  Next, I notice how the pickups > pickup every little finger noise and I mean EVERY.  In fact, I could literally > talk into it and hear myself as if it was a microphone.  I’ve never encountered > such microphonic pickups since.  It even picked up radio stations.  Then I > notice that I can literally put a deep gouge in the wood with my finger nail as > if the wood was balsa (which may explain part of the neck-dive; more on this). > Then I notice that I’m getting shocks and that static electricity is building > up on the back of the body.  I live with this crap for a few weeks (it was not > easy getting this to the store myself) as the neck develops a nice bow making > it impossible to play.  I bring it back and they adjust the rod.  I watched and > didn’t know this was bad at the time but they turned it a few full turns until > it was max’ed.  I said I was not happy with it and asked that it be sent to > Guild.  When it came back, I was told that’s the best they could do.  So, bad > balance, microphonic pickups, static that not only shocks me but crackles and > pops through my amp as the bass rubs against my shirt (this was in Summer > too–humid), a warped neck and a light soft wood body.  A few weeks later, when > pulling the cord out of the bass, the entire pickguard assembly came with it > and every little screw went flying across my floor (17 of ‘em if I recall). > What the hell kind of wood did I get?  Needless to say after getting no > satisfaction from the dealer or Guild, I dumped it at a huge loss with masking > tape holding the pickguard on.  Funny but a few years later, I played an > identical Guild (used) at Sam Ash now that I was old enough to take the train > alone.  The wood was much heavier and more solid so I must have had a really > inferior piece of wood. Too bad Guild would not stand behind it.

Response:

Without a doubt, a Guild B-302.  Bought it new for $375 which took a lot of mowing lawns to save.  I was a stupid young kid, there was only 1 music store within walking/bus distance and it was the first bass I played with roundwound strings.  My first bass was a Carlo Robelli [Ibanez] copy of a Rickenbacker which was a great bass.  The only thing I didn’t like about it was the sound and feel [WAIT].  What I realized was the cause was that when I bought it, I thought rough strings would be painful so I bought a set of Rotosound heavy flats which I found very difficult.  When I played the Guild, it had light roundwounds which I found easy and loved the piano-like tone so I assumed it was a better bass.  I traded the Rick copy that I bought at that store for $150.  [As an aside, they gave me $115 for it and later re-sold it for $175 which really pissed me off after the way he told me it was not worth much and he'd be lucky to get what I last paid for it--not a way to get a future sale from me].  So I get the Guild home.  Put my strap on [calm down] and watch the neck dive to the ground.  Worst balance ever.  Next, I notice how the pickups pickup every little finger noise and I mean EVERY.  In fact, I could literally talk into it and hear myself as if it was a microphone.  I’ve never encountered such microphonic pickups since.  It even picked up radio stations.  Then I notice that I can literally put a deep gouge in the wood with my finger nail as if the wood was balsa (which may explain part of the neck-dive; more on this). Then I notice that I’m getting shocks and that static electricity is building up on the back of the body.  I live with this crap for a few weeks (it was not easy getting this to the store myself) as the neck develops a nice bow making it impossible to play.  I bring it back and they adjust the rod.  I watched and didn’t know this was bad at the time but they turned it a few full turns until it was max’ed.  I said I was not happy with it and asked that it be sent to Guild.  When it came back, I was told that’s the best they could do.  So, bad balance, microphonic pickups, static that not only shocks me but crackles and pops through my amp as the bass rubs against my shirt (this was in Summer too–humid), a warped neck and a light soft wood body.  A few weeks later, when pulling the cord out of the bass, the entire pickguard assembly came with it and every little screw went flying across my floor (17 of ‘em if I recall). What the hell kind of wood did I get?  Needless to say after getting no satisfaction from the dealer or Guild, I dumped it at a huge loss with masking tape holding the pickguard on.  Funny but a few years later, I played an identical Guild (used) at Sam Ash now that I was old enough to take the train alone.  The wood was much heavier and more solid so I must have had a really inferior piece of wood. Too bad Guild would not stand behind it.

Response:

I don’t think I ever bought a Bass I hated. When I started playing I didn’t know any better, and nowadays I take the attitude that just about ALL basses (and guitars) have something they do well and it is up to the player to find and exploit it. I’ve had a few that I fell out of love with fairly rapidly (notably every Rickenbacker I ever owned) but even those I only unloaded to make money for their replacements. Probably the Basses I liked the least were the Rickenbackers and a Gibson G3 I had. But they weren’t actually bad basses – they just turned out to be not my "thing". Thump

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My worst bass is an Ibanez Destroyer.  Bought it in the 80’s because I > wanted to look cool in the hair band I was in at the time.  Look cool > is all I did, because this thing was a piece of shit and sounded > accordingly.  My $75 Bradley Steinberger copy sounds better than it > did.  I took it to a pawnshop and traded it for a necklace for my > wife.  Best thing I ever did with it.

Response:

> My worst bass is an Ibanez Destroyer.  Bought it in the 80’s because I > wanted to look cool in the hair band I was in at the time.  Look cool > is all I did, because this thing was a piece of shit and sounded > accordingly.  My $75 Bradley Steinberger copy sounds better than it > did.  I took it to a pawnshop and traded it for a necklace for my > wife.  Best thing I ever did with it.

Hah! You got off light. It would have to be my first bass. A plank of wood-chip composite, roughly hacked into a P shape, with a P pickup and a neck bolted on. Of course, the plank weighed a ton, and the composite couldn’t handle the tension, so the action was like almost 3/4 of an inch on the 12th fret. And I had to replace the neck screws because the board was stripping. But I did learn to play on that piece of crap. The most disappointing was a Washburn XB400 I got for my 21st Bday. I loved it it was pretty, it had TWO pickups instead of one… (my previous bass, wno replaced the plank, was a yamaha rbx p-copy… great bass) had active electronics… but soo afterwars I noticed it was really heavy, and the electronics wouldn’t sound like anything but shit unless the bass and the treble were maxed out. SO I was basically left with one tone (three if you count panning :) and that one tone wasn’t all that good, all bass and treble but no mid-bite. — Javier Gonzalez Nicolini – remove the .com to e-mail " "I don’t think so," said Rene Descartes.  Just then, he vanished.

Response:

This one. http://tinyurl.com/f31v That’s not the one I owned but is one just like it.  I bought mine in 1972 off the captain of our high school wrestling team and tried to impress girls with it.  I was not successful. Kept it until I bought my first real bass – a spiffy new ‘75 Precision. The Univox sucked but I still loved it.

Response:

> Damn that’s a hard one…"worst" or "most dissappionting"? If it was the > lattter I’d have to say any number of Hofner’s I’ve owned and really tried hard > to like but just couldn’t.

I can agree with that! I’ve never owned a Hofner (and never would), a friend of mine has one that’s his pride and joy. He proudly showed it to me and let me play it. YUK! It was far and away heads above any other bass I’ve ever met as the WORST bass in the world. ZERO sustain. Horrible tone. Cheapie parts. To this day I have NO idea why he thought that was such a wonderful instrument. {he did stress how light it was a lot!} As for "owned" mine was a Kingston P bass copy I got at an Amateur Radio flea market. At the time I was a newbie who was playing a short scale Kingston (which I still have, by the way), but the P bass was the pits. Fret buzz up the wazoo, bad tone, shoddy construction, PLUS I had to repair it FIRST to even play it. Eventually, it became a computer experiment. I took the neck apart and soldered a wire to each fret that came out in a large ribbon cable. The idea was to use the frets and strings to make "cross-point" switches to sense which note was being played to drive a synth. The synth would then track the volume of the plucked note. Cool idea, right? Wrong! I forgot that if TWO strings touch a fret it makes this path from one to the other and you get these "ghost" notes (Notes which play but are not actually fingered) appearing. Sigh! It’s still somewhere down in my guitar junk bin. Benj — Due to SPAM innundation above address is turned off!

Response:

A Cort Steinberger copy in the early ’80s. Uncomfortable to sit with. Uncomfortable to stand with. The neck twisted within weeks. Sounded thin. Wouldn’t tune. Paid full retail price for it used. Thinking about it makes me feel like a moron all over again. On the other hand the ‘76 pre, ‘78 Musicman, ‘59 Pre, Jerry Jones Longhorn, Tokai Jazz Bass (the lawsuit model), Westone Rail (I don’t care what anyone says it was great!), ‘84 – ‘57 re-issue Pre (that I still have), the mighty Azola Decobass (I also still have) and a few other good ones have kinda taken the edge off. jeffb

Response:

Damn that’s a hard one…"worst" or "most dissappionting"? If it was the lattter I’d have to say any number of Hofner’s I’ve owned and really tried hard to like but just couldn’t.

Response:

The only bass I’ve ever sold. My ‘77-78ish P bass. I bought it for $450 in the early 90’s and only kept it for a couple years. The neck was as fat as a telephone pole cut in half, and it was heavier than a pickup truck full of red necks heading to Sizzler. It sounded as fat as it was, but by the end of the 1st set with it, I was almost completely hunched over with the bass touching the stage. It was absolutely mint when I got it. I swapped the bridge to (believe it or not) a heavier one and later traded it on something I can’t even remember, but I broke even. I do miss it though, especially when I check how much they sell for now. Jay S

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My worst bass is an Ibanez Destroyer.  Bought it in the 80’s because I > wanted to look cool in the hair band I was in at the time.  Look cool > is all I did, because this thing was a piece of shit and sounded > accordingly.  My $75 Bradley Steinberger copy sounds better than it > did.  I took it to a pawnshop and traded it for a necklace for my > wife.  Best thing I ever did with it.

Response:

My worst bass is an Ibanez Destroyer.  Bought it in the 80’s because I wanted to look cool in the hair band I was in at the time.  Look cool is all I did, because this thing was a piece of shit and sounded accordingly.  My $75 Bradley Steinberger copy sounds better than it did.  I took it to a pawnshop and traded it for a necklace for my wife.  Best thing I ever did with it.

Response:

Hate to say it, but it was my ‘84(I think) Fender Elite P Bass. Bought it new from a local music store; I busted my ass washing dishes for a year to get that baby. It was my only bass for almost 10 years because I didn’t have the money to get another one. First off, The neck was as thick as a tree trunk, even for a P Bass. But what did I know? I sucked back then, so all basses were difficult for me to play. Second, it had the standard ’80’s active preamp technology, with tons of hi mid (and no way to get rid of it) that buzzed like a chainsaw. Also, it seems the preamp was VERY  touchy –  it was impossible for me to go from fingerstyle to slap without turning down the bass’ volume by at least half, and I was constantly  having to tweak volume levels on everything else. And it ate batteries like they were candy, even though I unplugged it between every set. Third, the damn recessed jack kept falling out and/or breaking, usually on a gig. Replaced it with a football jack which helped slightly. Last, and the final straw –   it developed  the dreaded "S-curve". Traded it to a music dealer who didn’t know any better and never looked back. Much like a first love,  it has a lot of sentimental value and good memories, even though the reality was rather shitty. — Learning funk bass? visit www.js3jazz.com/store.htm "Speaking the Truth in times of Universal deceit is a revolutionary act." — George Orwell

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My worst bass is an Ibanez Destroyer.  Bought it in the 80’s because I > wanted to look cool in the hair band I was in at the time.  Look cool > is all I did, because this thing was a piece of shit and sounded > accordingly.  My $75 Bradley Steinberger copy sounds better than it > did.  I took it to a pawnshop and traded it for a necklace for my > wife.  Best thing I ever did with it.

Response:

How Straight does a neck need to be?

Question:

> I bought a nice used P-bass about a month ago.  It has recieved little > use, and plays very nicely.  I just sighted down the neck, and it > appears very slightly bowed towards the strings.

Bowed TOWARDS the strings? No, it should be somewhere between flat and bowed AWAY from the strings, otherwise you will get buzz or you will have to set your strings uncomfortably high. I find a bass playable with neck relief (how low the frets are at the middle of the neck compared to the ends) somewhere between flat and maybe .025" though I like it best roughly midway in that range. YMMV.

Response:

Hi all Some time ago, I read a Roger Sadowski’s article about setting up a bass guitar. According to him, the trussrod adjustment should be just enough to avoid 1st fret buzz/rattle. I tried this with my Warwick Corvette and it worked fine. Just my two cents. Cristiano Oliveira – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I bought a nice used P-bass about a month ago.  It has recieved little > use, and plays very nicely.  I just sighted down the neck, and it > appears very slightly bowed towards the strings. > Should the neck appear this way?  I have a Les Paul that has the > flattest neck you have ever seen.  Should a bass be different? > Pete Collin > I prefer my bass necks to be nearly straight.. I tend to use far less relief > than any factory spec.. and more straight than most players. > You have to have a pretty good fingerboard and fret work to get away with > it. > But, yes, they do have some relief, and are supposed to, but it should play > nicely even so. > Twang! > — > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

> I bought a nice used P-bass about a month ago.  It has recieved little > use, and plays very nicely.  I just sighted down the neck, and it > appears very slightly bowed towards the strings. > Bowed TOWARDS the strings? No, it should be somewhere between flat and bowed > AWAY from the strings, otherwise you will get buzz or you will have to set > your strings uncomfortably high.

If you look at an archery bow. you could say the the bow was bowed toward the strings.. the middle of the bow is bowed away, but the ends bend toward.. I’m sure he meant the same thing. Twang! I find a bass playable with neck relief > (how low the frets are at the middle of the neck compared to the ends) > somewhere between flat and maybe .025" though I like it best roughly midway > in that range. YMMV.

— Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

> -Brian Pearl said…- > *…I found that it is best to wait 24 hrs before judging the > effectiveness of a truss rod adjustment…[/color] *

I recommend the same. — ‘My Website’ (http://tinyurl.com/l68a) posted via the bass forum at http://pointbeing.com

Response:

> I bought a nice used P-bass about a month ago.  It has recieved little > use, and plays very nicely.  I just sighted down the neck, and it > appears very slightly bowed towards the strings. > Should the neck appear this way?  I have a Les Paul that has the > flattest neck you have ever seen.  Should a bass be different? > Pete Collin

I prefer my bass necks to be nearly straight.. I tend to use far less relief than any factory spec.. and more straight than most players. You have to have a pretty good fingerboard and fret work to get away with it. But, yes, they do have some relief, and are supposed to, but it should play nicely even so. Twang! — Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

I like the way this page describes ’setting up’ a bass.  The only tricky part is that it lists metric feeler guages… http://www.wheatdesign.com/rmmbfaq.html#setup Bass Player also did a series of articles over 4 issues that thoroughly explains the different aspects of setting up a bass guitar (Nov ‘01, Dec ‘01, Jan ‘02 & Feb ‘02).  About a year ago, I decided to stop paying folks to tweak the truss rod, raise the strings and intonate the bridge – and the Bass Player articles were my initial handbook. There was also an article in Jan ‘03 about a bass tech at Berklee – very insightful. I’d recommend that all bass players learn to set up their instrument…it really taught me a lot about my basses.  Sure – it takes a while to get good at it…but it is pretty hard to REALLY screw up a bass, and over the long run saves a lot of $$. FWIW – I found that it is best to wait 24 hrs before judging the effectiveness of a truss rod adjustment… — be blessed…bp

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I bought a nice used P-bass about a month ago.  It has recieved little > use, and plays very nicely.  I just sighted down the neck, and it > appears very slightly bowed towards the strings. > Should the neck appear this way?  I have a Les Paul that has the > flattest neck you have ever seen.  Should a bass be different? > Pete Collin

Response:

it’s called relief and every bass (or guitar) must have it otherwise it’s almost unplayable. Have a look at Gary Willis’  pages for an explanation http://www.garywillis.com/pages/bass/bassmanual/setupmanual.html

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I bought a nice used P-bass about a month ago.  It has recieved little > use, and plays very nicely.  I just sighted down the neck, and it > appears very slightly bowed towards the strings. > Should the neck appear this way?  I have a Les Paul that has the > flattest neck you have ever seen.  Should a bass be different? > Pete Collin

Response:

Contary to the belief of many, a bass neck and fongerboad shouldn’t be laser straight.  However, it does have to be stable and in control, with a tiny amount of slope between the nut and the bottom of the fretboard, called ‘relief’.  It’s really a feel adjustment.  If you like the way the thing plays, don’t worry about changing it.  If a string buzzes at seemingly random spots on the neck, you could need a truss rod adjustment.  Under no circumstances do you turn the truss rod more than 1/4 turn at a time. One-eighth (1/8) turn at a time is wise.  After each  turn of the truss rod, re-string, re-tune, whatever it takes, and give the effect of the change a couple of hours to take hold.  Eventhough you may notice a change right off the bat, it may not set in fully right away.  All this is why if you like the bass the way it is, leave it be.  It can be a painstaking process…or relatively easy.  It just depends on the bass. Edward G. — "You don’t always get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get."  –Don King —

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I bought a nice used P-bass about a month ago.  It has recieved little > use, and plays very nicely.  I just sighted down the neck, and it > appears very slightly bowed towards the strings. > Should the neck appear this way?  I have a Les Paul that has the > flattest neck you have ever seen.  Should a bass be different? > Pete Collin

Response:

> I bought a nice used P-bass about a month ago.  It has recieved little > use, and plays very nicely.  I just sighted down the neck, and it > appears very slightly bowed towards the strings. > Should the neck appear this way?  I have a Les Paul that has the > flattest neck you have ever seen.  Should a bass be different? > Pete Collin

Needs a truss rod adjustment. Simple matter. — Neal Pollack The Bad Habit Allstars http://www.badhabitallstars.com Carbondale, CO, USA

Response:

> I bought a nice used P-bass about a month ago.  It has recieved little > use, and plays very nicely.  I just sighted down the neck, and it > appears very slightly bowed towards the strings. > Should the neck appear this way?  I have a Les Paul that has the > flattest neck you have ever seen.  Should a bass be different? > Pete Collin

That’s normal, and desirable, for a bass to have some bow in the neck.  It’s called "relief".  Read the FAQs at altguitarbass.com to learn more.

Response:

I bought a nice used P-bass about a month ago.  It has recieved little use, and plays very nicely.  I just sighted down the neck, and it appears very slightly bowed towards the strings. Should the neck appear this way?  I have a Les Paul that has the flattest neck you have ever seen.  Should a bass be different? Pete Collin

Response:

Adjusting the truss rod question

Question:

> Presuming the bass was set up right at one time, the most common causes of > too much relief are a variation in climactic conditions, in which case it > won’t buzz at the high frets, or if the player put heavier strings on, same > deal.

Absolutely.  You and I agree on that.  However, the original poster was experiencing buzz at the high frets.

Response:

> Presuming the bass was set up right at one time, the most common causes of > too much relief are a variation in climactic conditions, in which case it > won’t buzz at the high frets, or if the player put heavier strings on, > same > deal. > Absolutely.  You and I agree on that.  However, the original poster was > experiencing buzz at the high frets.

Exactly.

Response:

> "When you get fret buzz at the high frets, that’s an indication that your > neck has too much bow (relief).  You need to tighten the truss rod some." > and I thought Frank ought to try raising the saddles instead. > Raising the saddles when the relief is too great may eliminate the buzz, but > at the expense of making the action so high as to be unplayable.

Presuming the bass was set up right at one time, the most common causes of too much relief are a variation in climactic conditions, in which case it won’t buzz at the high frets, or if the player put heavier strings on, same deal.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > If neck has too much relief and strings are too low, buzz will appear > high > > on the neck. > Which is what always happens, as I said above. > "When you get fret buzz at the high frets, that’s an indication that your > neck has too much bow (relief).  You need to tighten the truss rod some." > and I thought Frank ought to try raising the saddles instead.

Not usually. If one part of the neck buzzes and another doesn’t, that is an idication the truss rod isn’t adusted properly. True, raising the action would probably minimize this, but it will have the effect that when you play harder, the high frets will buzz, and the bottom frets won’t. Also, rasing the action might be a problem for someone who is used to the action being lower.

Response:

> "When you get fret buzz at the high frets, that’s an indication that your > neck has too much bow (relief).  You need to tighten the truss rod some." > and I thought Frank ought to try raising the saddles instead.

Raising the saddles when the relief is too great may eliminate the buzz, but at the expense of making the action so high as to be unplayable.  Over the years, this has been one of the most common situations described in this forum.  When there’s too much relief, it causes the action to be too high in the middle of the neck, but right at the end of the neck, it’s low again, because the side view of the neck is like an archery bow.  To get the action low enough at the middle of the neck, you have to lower the saddles to the point where they are almost touching the neck at the tail end.  If the player complains of fret buzz at the tail end of the neck, and you ask if the saddles are almost bottomed out, the answer is almost always, "Yes". Vice-versa, if the player complains that the saddles are bottomed out but the action’s still too high:  "Do you get fret buzz at the tail end of the neck?"  "Yes."  Never seems to fail.  Basses always come from the factory with too much relief, and a lot of players don’t even know that it can be adjusted, they only think of raising the saddles.  A lot of players are just plain afraid to touch the truss rod, so they raise the saddles.  So, you get the archery effect.  Correcting action and playability problems has to start with proper neck relief, you always do that first.

Response:

>>>What does "um" mean, anyway? >It means he’s not trying to jump in your face like some 1/2 wit. >Cautiously addressing something… > Awwright, look, you — just because we’ve already got one guy named Dr. > Smartass in this group doesn’t mean I can’t be one, too.  As a matter of > fact, I’ll be a half-wit smartass.

That was actually a reference to a different "true half-wit" poster who pretends to post to worng news groups.  :-) —    O< (.) (.) /()    ^^

Response:

> Call MusicMakers on South Lamar and ask for Ohlee (O-Lee). > I have a vintage bass and I noticed a buzz on the higher frets.  When > I sight down the neck I notice that it is bowed.  It looks to me like > I need to adjust the truss rod.  My question is… do I do this with > the strings on and tensioned or with the strings off? > Also does anyone have the name/phone number of a good bass guitar > technician in Austin, TX?  I may want to have someone else give the > bass a going over to get it set up properly. > Thanks for any advice. > Frank

Thanks for everyone’s advice.  I guess we’ve all been here before… :-) Frank

Response:

> > What does "um" mean, anyway? > It means he’s not trying to jump in your face like some 1/2 wit. > Cautiously addressing something…

Awwright, look, you — just because we’ve already got one guy named Dr. Smartass in this group doesn’t mean I can’t be one, too.  As a matter of fact, I’ll be a half-wit smartass.

Response:

Okay, no ums this time. > If neck has too much relief and strings are too high, there will be no buzz > anywhere.

But, this never happens, because the player will not tolerate the extremely high action this creates.  The player will instinctively lower the saddles to lower the action.  If there’s too much relief, the player can never get the saddles low enough to get the action he wants — but, the end result will be that there will be fret buzz, and it will come from the highest end of the neck.  This happens all the time, as demonstrated by the common posts here — "I’ve got my saddles bottomed all the way out against the bridge, but my action’s still too high."  Too much neck relief. > If neck has too much relief and strings are too low, buzz will appear high > on the neck.

Which is what always happens, as I said above. > If neck has correct relief and strings are too low, buzz will appear high on > the neck.

No, the buzz will be all over the neck. > If neck has insufficient relief and strings are too high, buzz appears

low. No, if there’s too little relief, the buzz will be at the lower frets, even if the strings are at the correct height. > If neck has insufficient relief and strings are too low, notes totally choke > out.

This is what happens here in Wisconsin every spring, as the humidity rises after the dry winter.  You take out a bass after it’s been sitting a while, and all the strings are plastered flat against the frets.

Response:

> If neck has too much relief and strings are too low, buzz will appear high > on the neck. > Which is what always happens, as I said above.

"When you get fret buzz at the high frets, that’s an indication that your neck has too much bow (relief).  You need to tighten the truss rod some." and I thought Frank ought to try raising the saddles instead.

Response:

I have a vintage bass and I noticed a buzz on the higher frets.  When I sight down the neck I notice that it is bowed.  It looks to me like I need to adjust the truss rod.  My question is… do I do this with the strings on and tensioned or with the strings off? Also does anyone have the name/phone number of a good bass guitar technician in Austin, TX?  I may want to have someone else give the bass a going over to get it set up properly. Thanks for any advice. Frank

Response:

>I have a vintage bass and I noticed a buzz on the higher frets.  When >I sight down the neck I notice that it is bowed.  It looks to me like >I need to adjust the truss rod.  My question is… do I do this with >the strings on and tensioned or with the strings off? >Also does anyone have the name/phone number of a good bass guitar >technician in Austin, TX?  I may want to have someone else give the >bass a going over to get it set up properly. >Thanks for any advice. >Frank

Keith and Robert at The Custom Shop, right around the corner from Ray Hennig’s, do good work. They handle basses and guitars, but they’re bassists first from what I hear. Most of the stores around town have someone who can do this, but the Custom Shop’s been around for awhile. Check ‘em out here: http://bassland.home.texas.net Since it’s vintage (and likely worth alot), I’d give strong consideration to having a pro do this, ESPECIALLY if you’ve never done it before.

Response:

> I have a vintage bass and I noticed a buzz on the higher frets.  When > I sight down the neck I notice that it is bowed.  It looks to me like > I need to adjust the truss rod.  My question is… do I do this with > the strings on and tensioned or with the strings off?

Depends.  With some vintage basses, you have to remove the neck to adjust the truss rod, so… With basses where you can access the truss rod without removing the body, you usually leave the tension on.  If you are flattening the neck, and the nut is pretty stiff, you should loosen the strings to see if it helps.  If it’s a vintage Rickenbacker, I believe you move the neck by external (hand) pressure, then tighten the nut when you have the preferred bow achieved. For more info: http://www.altguitarbass.com/faq.asp#Setup http://members.rogers.com/dbl-bass/setups.htm http://archive.bassplayer.com/gear/specs.shtml http://www.mrgearhead.net/faq/basssetup.html http://garywillis.com/pages/bass/bassmanual/setupmanual.html http://www.geocities.com/Hollywood/6203/page33.html http://www.harmony-central.com/Bass/setups.txt http://sadowsky.com/media/pdf/technical/bp0999_bass_setup.pdf http://www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/ElectricGuitarRepair.htm If you’re unsure, find a pro. —    O> /()    ^^

Response:

I always release the string pressure and adjust about a quarter turn at a time.  It is not hard to overadjust and put a back bow in the neck.  A back bow is sometimes impossible to get out without removing or sliding the fretboard, a real bummer and expensive.  I only remove the neck if there is no other way to get at the trussrod. Kirk

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a vintage bass and I noticed a buzz on the higher frets.  When > I sight down the neck I notice that it is bowed.  It looks to me like > I need to adjust the truss rod.  My question is… do I do this with > the strings on and tensioned or with the strings off? > Also does anyone have the name/phone number of a good bass guitar > technician in Austin, TX?  I may want to have someone else give the > bass a going over to get it set up properly. > Thanks for any advice. > Frank

Response:

> I have a vintage bass and I noticed a buzz on the higher frets.  When > I sight down the neck I notice that it is bowed.  It looks to me like > I need to adjust the truss rod.  My question is… do I do this with > the strings on and tensioned or with the strings off?

When you get fret buzz at the high frets, that’s an indication that your neck has too much bow (relief).  You need to tighten the truss rod some. Makes no difference if you do it with the strings on and tensioned or not (in my experience), but if you make the adjustment with the strings tensioned, be sure to re-tune the bass before checking the relief again. Make your adjustments in quarter-turn increments, and check after each adjustment.

Response:

> When you get fret buzz at the high frets, that’s an indication > that your neck has too much bow (relief).

Um, actually I think it means your saddles are too low.

Response:

> > When you get fret buzz at the high frets, that’s an indication > that your neck has too much bow (relief). > Um, actually I think it means your saddles are too low.

Um, when you have the correct relief in your neck, if the saddles are too low, you will get fret buzz uniformly across the entire neck.  Um, if the relief is too little, or is even negative, then you get buzz at the head end of the neck.  Um, if the relief is too great, you will have to lower your saddles way down, sometimes bottomed all the way out.  Um, if your saddles are all the way down, and your action is still too high, it means you have too much neck relief.  Um, if that is the case, and you adjust your neck relief properly, you will have to raise your saddles, because the strings will be lying flat on the neck. What does "um" mean, anyway?

Response:

Call MusicMakers on South Lamar and ask for Ohlee (O-Lee).

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a vintage bass and I noticed a buzz on the higher frets.  When > I sight down the neck I notice that it is bowed.  It looks to me like > I need to adjust the truss rod.  My question is… do I do this with > the strings on and tensioned or with the strings off? > Also does anyone have the name/phone number of a good bass guitar > technician in Austin, TX?  I may want to have someone else give the > bass a going over to get it set up properly. > Thanks for any advice. > Frank

Response:

> > When you get fret buzz at the high frets, that’s an indication > > that your neck has too much bow (relief). > Um, actually I think it means your saddles are too low. > Um, when you have the correct relief in your neck, if the saddles are too > low, you will get fret buzz uniformly across the entire neck.

No. If everything is set right when playing harder than normal, buzz is uniform. If neck has too much relief and strings are too high, there will be no buzz anywhere. If neck has too much relief and strings are too low, buzz will appear high on the neck. If neck has correct relief and strings are too low, buzz will appear high on the neck. If neck has insufficient relief and strings are too high, buzz appears low. If neck has insufficient relief and strings are too low, notes totally choke out.

Response:

> What does "um" mean, anyway?

It means he’s not trying to jump in your face like some 1/2 wit. Cautiously addressing something… —    O> /()    ^^

Response:

Tips on stuff

Question:

> Amen Brian. I believe that i am open to cirtisism, i can take it, and > well….i think i’m a very nice guy :-P heheh, but i spose thats not really > for me to decide! > I have a gig tonight with them, and if at some point we’re all in the band > room, i’ll take that chance to go over it with them definatly. I’ll tell ya > how it all goes!

Not at a gig! Do it at practice! Gigs are for the audience. Practice is for the band.

Response:

Hello Cris Yes I’m from Brasil, but from Sao Paulo (nobody is perfect ;-) It is a coincidence, most people I know from Brasil don’t use the usenet. Perhaps we can chat now and then about stuff, like I said, I am currently living in Germany, and picked up bass again after a 11 year break. Sooooo happy I did this!!! I found out I have a neighbour here that is also from rio and plays guitar, we are going to turn my drum maschine on and jam a little now and then. Um grande abra

Archery PDA software for pocket PC

Question:

Hi all. I fell down the stairs & broke my bowarm (elbow joint) So I purchased a PDA to have something to play with. I notice that all the software out there is for a Palm. Is there any for a Pocket PC? Regards Pete

Response:

> Hi all. > I fell down the stairs & broke my bowarm (elbow joint) > So I purchased a PDA to have something to play with. > I notice that all the software out there is for a Palm. > Is there any for a Pocket PC? > Regards > Pete

Not that I’m aware of – there’s TargetPlot and AAPalm for the Palm, and I can’t think of any other PDA archery software. Of course, you could just get a Palm… – there’s a Palm V on eBay for a less than ridiculous amount at the moment. Hope your arm gets better sharpish, or at least in time for outdoor season. 7om

Response:

Well… I came across this one (if your Spanish is any good…) http://perso.wanadoo.es/fernandodediego/info.html#_Toc32893858 but I can’t tell if this is a live page. I don’t know if any of the Java stuff around can be made to run on Wince – it might be worth a try (I think both Sun and IBM have VMs which run on PDA platforms). – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi all. > I fell down the stairs & broke my bowarm (elbow joint) > So I purchased a PDA to have something to play with. > I notice that all the software out there is for a Palm. > Is there any for a Pocket PC? > Regards > Pete

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi all. > I fell down the stairs & broke my bowarm (elbow joint) > So I purchased a PDA to have something to play with. > I notice that all the software out there is for a Palm. > Is there any for a Pocket PC? > Regards > Pete > Not that I’m aware of – there’s TargetPlot and AAPalm for the Palm, and I > can’t think of any other PDA archery software. > Of course, you could just get a Palm… – there’s a Palm V on eBay for a > less than ridiculous amount at the moment. > Hope your arm gets better sharpish, or at least in time for outdoor

season. Thanks mate. I’m out pf plaster at the end of the month, thanks to the metalwork thats still in there! (yep, I made a real mess of it!) Then on with the physio. (the really annoying thing is that all of my hobbies (and chores, thinking about it) rely on 2 good arms!) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 7om

Response:

Marksman Welbeck limbs

Question:

Antone know where I can get limbs to fit a Marksman Welbeck wooden riser? Steve

Response:

> Antone know where I can get limbs to fit a Marksman Welbeck wooden > riser? > Steve

Try asking KG Archery, http://www.kgarchery.co.uk/index2.html — John

Response:

I tried KG but no luck, thanks anyway Steve

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Antone know where I can get limbs to fit a Marksman Welbeck wooden > riser? > Steve > Try asking KG Archery, http://www.kgarchery.co.uk/index2.html > — > John

Response:

There are  a few places still selling Marksmen limbs. Archery World is one place you could try. http://www.archeryworld.co.uk/acatalog/Marksman_Limbs.html

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I tried KG but no luck, thanks anyway > Steve > > Antone know where I can get limbs to fit a Marksman Welbeck wooden > > riser? > > Steve > Try asking KG Archery, http://www.kgarchery.co.uk/index2.html > — > John

Response:

Went to Archery World, no luck. Anyone got a second hand Marsman Welbeck or M75 or M77 bow they want to sell? Steve

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> There are  a few places still selling Marksmen limbs. Archery World is one > place you could try. > http://www.archeryworld.co.uk/acatalog/Marksman_Limbs.html > I tried KG but no luck, thanks anyway > Steve > > > Antone know where I can get limbs to fit a Marksman Welbeck wooden > > > riser? > > > Steve > > Try asking KG Archery, http://www.kgarchery.co.uk/index2.html > > — > > John

Response:

Determining string length

Question:

Howdy, Just got a couple of fiberglass recurve bows through and auction.  They are low poundage (20-30#) recurve bows, but came without strings.  Is there a rule of thumb I can use in order to get the proper length bow string for these bows so that I can take the wife out shooting? Thanks! Unkel Gilbey

Response:

Make a provisional string of variable length, using the "bowstring knot". Adjust it until the bow looks right, then measure the length. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Howdy, > Just got a couple of fiberglass recurve bows through and auction.  They are > low poundage (20-30#) recurve bows, but came without strings.  Is there a > rule of thumb I can use in order to get the proper length bow string for > these bows so that I can take the wife out shooting? > Thanks! > Unkel Gilbey

Response:

> Howdy, > Just got a couple of fiberglass recurve bows through and auction. > They are > low poundage (20-30#) recurve bows, but came without strings.  Is > there a rule of thumb I can use in order to get the proper length bow > string for these bows so that I can take the wife out shooting? > Thanks! > Unkel Gilbey

The AMO standards give a length of 3" shorter than the length of the bow. See the AMO standards booklet (PDF) for more details. — John

Response:

Address for the AMO Standards: http://www.archerytrade.org/publications/images/AmoStandards.pdf — John

Response:

Toxophilus

Question:

Does Toxophilus, the 1545 archery book by Roger Ascham, exist anywhere in ebook (html, pdf, MS Reader, text, anything electronic) format?  I’ve searched but can’t find anything. Thanks

Response:

> Does Toxophilus, the 1545 archery book by Roger Ascham, exist anywhere in > ebook (html, pdf, MS Reader, text, anything electronic) format?  I’ve > searched but can’t find anything.

Maybe you should try the archery library? http://www.xs4all.nl/~marcelo/archery/library/

Response:

My copy is published by the Simon Archery Foundation and is copyrighted "A Wendy Hodgkinson, 1985". She was then the Honorary Keeper of the Simon Archery Collection. The Simon Collection is housed by the Manchester Museum and they have a webpage at http://museum.man.ac.uk/archery/ They may be able to tell you more. Chris

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Does Toxophilus, the 1545 archery book by Roger Ascham, exist anywhere in > ebook (html, pdf, MS Reader, text, anything electronic) format?  I’ve > searched but can’t find anything. > Thanks

Response:

Try Quicks at http://www.quicks.com I have seen Toxophilus for sale in their catalogue, try their web site to see if it is still available. — John Grove

Response:

>Does Toxophilus, the 1545 archery book by Roger Ascham, exist anywhere in >ebook (html, pdf, MS Reader, text, anything electronic) format?  I’ve >searched but can’t find anything. >Thanks >NO, but the book can be had from Quicks and other archery stores.

Neil

Response:

It’s not available in electronic form, but you can get a very nice hardcover edition direct from the publisher, Derrydale Press, at http://www.derrydalepress.com/Catalog/SingleBook.shtml?command=Search…DB/CATALOG.db&eqSKUdata=1564160920 —

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Does Toxophilus, the 1545 archery book by Roger Ascham, exist anywhere in >ebook (html, pdf, MS Reader, text, anything electronic) format?  I’ve >searched but can’t find anything. >Thanks >NO, but the book can be had from Quicks and other archery stores. > Neil

Response:

software help

Question:

anyone know of any software for archery for pocket PC

Response:

Yes.. There is a product called TargetPlot here: http://www.targetplot.com.au/targplot.htm if you also are looking for tournamet software it would be here: www.archersoft.dk The site is in danish, but on the menu to the left is a link to Archery in english. This software is for the shooting director, try it… /Jens Fudge – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> anyone know of any software for archery for pocket PC

Response:

Actually, TargetPlot only works on Palm machines, there isn’t a Pocket PC version… I don’t know about Archers Advantage, there might be a PPC version of that… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Yes.. > There is a product called TargetPlot here: > http://www.targetplot.com.au/targplot.htm > if you also are looking for tournamet software it would be here: > www.archersoft.dk The site is in danish, but on the menu to the left is a > link to Archery in english. > This software is for the shooting director, try it… > /Jens Fudge > anyone know of any software for archery for pocket PC

Response:

Oh! My mistake.. I hadnt really noticed that it was for palm…. Sorry about that. Jens Fudge Archersoft, software for archery. www.archersoft.dk > Actually, TargetPlot only works on Palm machines, there isn’t a Pocket PC version… > I don’t know about Archers Advantage, there might be a PPC version of that…

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Yes.. > There is a product called TargetPlot here: > http://www.targetplot.com.au/targplot.htm > if you also are looking for tournamet software it would be here: > www.archersoft.dk The site is in danish, but on the menu to the left is a > link to Archery in english. > This software is for the shooting director, try it… > /Jens Fudge > > anyone know of any software for archery for pocket PC

Response:

online archery in UE

Question:

 Hi! I want to know if you know of any good online archery shops in the UE.  not UK since they still don