recurve string

Question:

I have a recurve bow and the string appears to come out of the grooves at the ends when i draw it. Does this mean the bow is warped. Is there anything i can do about it.

Response:

Check your limbs with some limb gauges or with a mark on the center of the limbs (on tape of course-don’t mark on the limbs themselves).  Make the mark about the middle of the limbs on the string side.  Your string should line up with the center of the limbs and with the center of the riser.  What kind of riser and limbs do you have? Norm

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a recurve bow and the string appears to come out of the grooves at the > ends when i draw it. Does this mean the bow is warped. Is there anything i can > do about it.

Response:

The bow (browning) is all wood and the limbs are laminated. There is a groove in the centre of the limbs at the end. The string doesn’t stay within the groove.

Response:

I don’t know anything about that bow myself.  Did you get a chance to make the checks I mentioned?  There are other folks here that know waaaay more than I do ’bout these things, but you need to check the limb straightness the way I described.  There are other checks to make but start with those. Norm

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The bow (browning) is all wood and the limbs are laminated. There is a groove > in the centre of the limbs at the end. The string doesn’t stay within the > groove.

Response:

Do you mean it doesn’t stay there when the bow is drawn? Or when it’s not drawn? I’d *expect* the string to be out of the groove (more or less) when the bow is drawn, unless it is way too long. I’d expect the string to sit nicely in the groove when it’s not drawn, unless it is way too short. The easiest way to tell whether the string is right, is to check the bracing height – see if it is in the range suggested by the manufacturer. If the bracing height is way too low, the string is too long. If it’s way too high, the string is too short. Just over or under can probably be adjusted by (un)twisting the string, depending on how many twists it’s carrying already… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > The bow (browning) is all wood and the limbs are laminated. There is a groove > in the centre of the limbs at the end. The string doesn’t stay within the > groove.

Response:

Sounds like your limbs are twisted a little.  I’ve had success massaging them back by applying heat (hair dryer or hot tap water, not too much) and gently twisting them back in line.  Take your time and check for alignment often.  Then let them sit for a while and check again.  Don’t rush. Richard Kawamura NFAA Life Member

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The bow (browning) is all wood and the limbs are laminated. There is a groove > in the centre of the limbs at the end. The string doesn’t stay within the > groove.

Response:

Is it me, or does this question seem to be getting odd answers? Mr Crankbait (!) If you have a correctly strung recurve with detachable limbs i.e. a "takedown" type regular bow, when it is strung you will find the string lies in the grooves at the limb ends, just separating from the limb where the groove ends and the limb curves away. When you draw it the string it comes right away from the limb and may make an angle of around 90 degrees with the limb tip…this is normal. If the string does not align in the groove when undrawn then your limbs could be warped, or the limb pocket adjusters (if you have them) could be set badly. Warped limbs can be fixed but you need some expertise and a bucket of hot water  (not recommended). – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The bow (browning) is all wood and the limbs are laminated. There is a > groove > in the centre of the limbs at the end. The string doesn’t stay within the > groove.

Response:

Nope, it’s not you. I think it’s just a case of people making assumptions – "he can’t mean that, he must mean…". Dangerous thing to do. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Is it me, or does this question seem to be getting odd answers? > Mr Crankbait (!) If you have a correctly strung recurve with detachable > limbs i.e. a "takedown" type regular bow, when it is strung you will find > the string lies in the grooves at the limb ends, just separating from the > limb where the groove ends and the limb curves away. > When you draw it the string it comes right away from the limb and may make > an angle of around 90 degrees with the limb tip…this is normal. > If the string does not align in the groove when undrawn then your limbs > could be warped, or the limb pocket adjusters (if you have them) could be > set badly. Warped limbs can be fixed but you need some expertise and a > bucket of hot water  (not recommended). > > The bow (browning) is all wood and the limbs are laminated. There is a >  groove > > in the centre of the limbs at the end. The string doesn’t stay within >  the > > groove.

Response:

personally, I think perhaps he is just gripping the bow *a lot*.   GDRLH bravado: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Is it me, or does this question seem to be getting odd answers? >Mr Crankbait (!) If you have a correctly strung recurve with detachable >limbs i.e. a "takedown" type regular bow, when it is strung you will find >the string lies in the grooves at the limb ends, just separating from the >limb where the groove ends and the limb curves away. >When you draw it the string it comes right away from the limb and may make >an angle of around 90 degrees with the limb tip…this is normal. >If the string does not align in the groove when undrawn then your limbs >could be warped, or the limb pocket adjusters (if you have them) could be >set badly. Warped limbs can be fixed but you need some expertise and a >bucket of hot water  (not recommended). >>The bow (browning) is all wood and the limbs are laminated. There is a >groove >>in the centre of the limbs at the end. The string doesn’t stay within >the >>groove.

Response:

personally, I think perhaps he is just gripping the bow *a lot*.   GDRLH Hi Tex! Er, GDRLH (God Does Read Large Headers) ???

Response:

> personally, I think perhaps he is just gripping the bow *a lot*.   GDRLH > Hi Tex! Er, GDRLH (God Does Read Large Headers) ???

Knowing my mate Ron, "Grinnin, Ducking & Running Like Hell!" HTH!

Response:

> personally, I think perhaps he is just gripping the bow *a lot*.   GDRLH > Hi Tex! Er, GDRLH (God Does Read Large Headers) ???

Grinnin, Duckin, Runnin Lahk Hell. 7om

Response:

> personally, I think perhaps he is just gripping the bow *a lot*.   GDRLH > Hi Tex! Er, GDRLH (God Does Read Large Headers) ??? > Grinnin, Duckin, Runnin Lahk Hell. > 7om

You do the accent better than I do! (Plaster’s off! Training bow on Sunday!)

Response:

> > Grinnin, Duckin, Runnin Lahk Hell. > 7om > You do the accent better than I do! > (Plaster’s off! Training bow on Sunday!)

Lucky man. I’m off to Dundee, allegedly for a competition. I suspect it will devolve into the usual thing of a bit of archery mixed with a lot of drinking and envy of Edinburgh, but hey. How long before you can get back to a proper weight bow? 7om

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > Grinnin, Duckin, Runnin Lahk Hell. > > 7om > You do the accent better than I do! > (Plaster’s off! Training bow on Sunday!) > Lucky man. I’m off to Dundee, allegedly for a competition. I suspect it will > devolve into the usual thing of a bit of archery mixed with a lot of > drinking and envy of Edinburgh, but hey. > How long before you can get back to a proper weight bow?

TBD mate. We’ll see how it goes. I got back into swimming as well this week, and boy that was ……challenging! Wanna see the x-rays?

Response:

> > How long before you can get back to a proper weight bow? > TBD mate. We’ll see how it goes. I got back into swimming as well this week, > and boy that was ……challenging! > Wanna see the x-rays?

If they’re the sort of thing with large fragments of bone everywhere, definitely not. 7om

Response:

> > How long before you can get back to a proper weight bow? > TBD mate. We’ll see how it goes. I got back into swimming as well this > week, > and boy that was ……challenging! > Wanna see the x-rays? > If they’re the sort of thing with large fragments of bone everywhere, > definitely not.

LOL! They’re really jolly interesting in an abstract sort of way!

Response:

managed to post: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > > How long before you can get back to a proper weight bow? > > TBD mate. We’ll see how it goes. I got back into swimming as well this > week, > > and boy that was ……challenging! > > Wanna see the x-rays? > If they’re the sort of thing with large fragments of bone everywhere, > definitely not. >LOL! They’re really jolly interesting in an abstract sort of way!

C’mon then Pete – where’s the URL?    Keep it between the ditches                                                HooDooWitch          

Response:

grinnin’, duckin’, runnin’ lahk hell    :) bravado: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >personally, I think perhaps he is just gripping the bow *a lot*.   GDRLH >Hi Tex! Er, GDRLH (God Does Read Large Headers) ???

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > managed to post: message >> > > How long before you can get back to a proper weight bow? >> > TBD mate. We’ll see how it goes. I got back into swimming as well this >> week, >> > and boy that was ……challenging! >> > Wanna see the x-rays? >> If they’re the sort of thing with large fragments of bone everywhere, >> definitely not. >LOL! They’re really jolly interesting in an abstract sort of way! > C’mon then Pete – where’s the URL?

www.petersamuels.co.uk

Response:

>Lucky man. I’m off to Dundee, allegedly for a competition. I suspect it will >devolve into the usual thing of a bit of archery mixed with a lot of >drinking and envy of Edinburgh, but hey.

Damn… he sneaked through the border controls ;o) Must’ve been due to that nicely camoufladged bow! Couldn’t even get the judge to tell him his bow as overweight )

Response:

managed to post: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> managed to post: >message > >> > Wanna see the x-rays? > >> If they’re the sort of thing with large fragments of bone everywhere, > >> definitely not. > >LOL! They’re really jolly interesting in an abstract sort of way! > C’mon then Pete – where’s the URL? >www.petersamuels.co.uk

Cool. Is that wire or graffitti on the bottom image?    Keep it between the ditches                                                HooDooWitch          

Response:

> grinnin’, duckin’, runnin’ lahk hell    :)

Great! I got it to the accent – although I think I missed some punctuation… 7om

Response:

>Lucky man. I’m off to Dundee, allegedly for a competition. I suspect it will >devolve into the usual thing of a bit of archery mixed with a lot of >drinking and envy of Edinburgh, but hey. > Damn… he sneaked through the border controls ;o) Must’ve been due to > that nicely camoufladged bow! > Couldn’t even get the judge to tell him his bow as overweight )

It was FITA legal. They let you have up to 60#, and it was. 60#. On the dot (and second attempt.) And you are now the official Scottish Equipment Jinx. I’ll see if I can sort out something saying that you can put on your desk. 7om

Response:

>It was FITA legal. They let you have up to 60#, and it was. 60#. On the dot >(and second attempt.)

And you weren’t worried in the slightest (was that a bunch of allen keys in your pocket, or were you just pleased to see me . >And you are now the official Scottish Equipment Jinx. I’ll see if I can sort >out something saying that you can put on your desk.

MMMmeeeeeee? Nah… My equipment is just fine )

Response:

Score Cards?

Question:

I’m slowly getting back into archery after a few decades.  While I’m building up my arms & working on getting my equipment & form sorted out, I’d like to keep track of my practice results.  I figured the easiest thing to do would be to get some "score cards" like those used in competition.  I’m shooting indoors, and the local Club league seems to use the NFAA targets. Unfortunately, a web search came up with all sorts of mention of score cards in various rules, but no place to order them, no images, etc.   Does anyone know where I could get some, or download something I could print out?  I’m assuming they have twelve rows with 5 boxes, and I can certainly whip up something to work with for now.  I’m just curious as to what the heck a real one looks like & why they seem to be a big secret. Thanks! Doug White

Response:

Doug Ill be glad to help. Score cards can be brought in packs or books from most archery stores. Try www.quicks.com to buy them online. They typically consist of a number of rows (the number dependant on the round being shot) each of which has a dozen boxes diveded into half with a total at the end of each half. At the end of each row, is a total for that dozen, the number of hits, the number of golds and a running total. At the bottom of the score card is a place for yourself and a witness to sign that the score is correct. Hope it helps. AJ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I’m slowly getting back into archery after a few decades.  While I’m > building up my arms & working on getting my equipment & form sorted > out, I’d like to keep track of my practice results.  I figured the > easiest thing to do would be to get some "score cards" like those used > in competition.  I’m shooting indoors, and the local Club league seems > to use the NFAA targets. > Unfortunately, a web search came up with all sorts of mention of score > cards in various rules, but no place to order them, no images, etc.   > Does anyone know where I could get some, or download something I could > print out?  I’m assuming they have twelve rows with 5 boxes, and I can > certainly whip up something to work with for now.  I’m just curious as > to what the heck a real one looks like & why they seem to be a big > secret. > Thanks! > Doug White

Response:

Hi there Score cards a secret??? Naaahhh…. Here is a link to download the official danish scorecards from the National organisation. www.dbsf.dk On the menu to the left click download. On the download page you’ll find the word "Skydesedler" which is danish for scorecard. The scorecards are in excell format, and of course the text on them is in danish. You should however be able to figure them out…. There are three different scorecards in the worksheet as I remember, Outdoor, indoor and field archery, you select them by clicking the tabs at the bottom of the page. Jens Fudge, Archersoft Software for Archery – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m slowly getting back into archery after a few decades.  While I’m > building up my arms & working on getting my equipment & form sorted > out, I’d like to keep track of my practice results.  I figured the > easiest thing to do would be to get some "score cards" like those used > in competition.  I’m shooting indoors, and the local Club league seems > to use the NFAA targets. > Unfortunately, a web search came up with all sorts of mention of score > cards in various rules, but no place to order them, no images, etc. > Does anyone know where I could get some, or download something I could > print out?  I’m assuming they have twelve rows with 5 boxes, and I can > certainly whip up something to work with for now.  I’m just curious as > to what the heck a real one looks like & why they seem to be a big > secret. > Thanks! > Doug White

Response:

National Archery Centre

Question:

> how about a contemporary yet very functional system for storage of bow cases, > etc.?? maybe include some mirrors and areas to paper-tune so one can see your > own form and correct possibly without a coach. possibly having very distinct > shooting lanes. I could also suggest, that its a personal preference that if > i’m shooting indoors, i hate flourescent light for hours, i would much prefer > natural sunlight, so if at all possible include some windows for the archers, > but be sure it isn’t going to get glare in their eyes.

I’m a lover of artificial light, but if you must insist on being lit by the big yellow orb, then there are now domes that sit on the roof, that collect sun-light very efficiently, pushing it down a mirrored tube, and into what looks like conventional light fittings. No need for windows. No glare (although what you mean by glare isn’t technically glare (at least not in the UK)), but it gets rid of that too! Cheaper than windows as well. For me, a couple of 60WATT bulbs would be infinitely preferable. DV

Response:

> I’m a lover of artificial light, but if you must insist on being lit by the > big yellow orb, > then there are now domes that sit on the roof, that collect sun-light very > efficiently, > pushing it down a mirrored tube, and into what looks like conventional light > fittings. No need for windows. No glare (although what you mean by glare > isn’t > technically glare (at least not in the UK)), but it gets rid of that too! > Cheaper than > windows as well.

Way cool. I wonder if we can get it installed here….. <returns limping and clutching head> Nope, I have been informed that budgetary constraints mitigate against it. > For me, a couple of 60WATT bulbs would be infinitely preferable.

Uh uh. I’d go with hundreds. Tom

Response:

> Way cool. I wonder if we can get it installed here….. > <returns limping and clutching head> > Nope, I have been informed that budgetary constraints mitigate against it. >

I think that shows a remarkable lack of dedication. go get you some roof-light-thingys! > For me, a couple of 60WATT bulbs would be infinitely preferable. > Uh uh. I’d go with hundreds.

I grew up in a 600year old house that is very dark. I can see in very poor lighting conditions, and am much happier under artificial light, and in slightly damp places (as it were). DV

Response:

how about a contemporary yet very functional system for storage of bow cases, etc.?? maybe include some mirrors and areas to paper-tune so one can see your own form and correct possibly without a coach. possibly having very distinct shooting lanes. I could also suggest, that its a personal preference that if i’m shooting indoors, i hate flourescent light for hours, i would much prefer natural sunlight, so if at all possible include some windows for the archers, but be sure it isn’t going to get glare in their eyes. Ok, i guess i’m done. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > I am a final year architecture student in the UK, but perhaps more > > importantly a regular archer. My thesis design project is to design a > > ‘National Archery Centre’. On this basis I would welcome feedback on > > existing good facilities i could perhaps visit, what you would want in > an > > archery centre and any other information you may feel i would benefit > from.. > I am also an architecture student in the UK, and am returning to archery > now. > Can I sugest that you use the following terms. >         – "Ego Lodge" >         – "Bio-Dynamic Quiver Store" >         – "Sustainable boss recycling cycle" > mmmm architectural bullshit… > Lots of space. Good netting. Good cafe and a shop. All that’s needed. > DV > Don’t forget the Bar!

Response:

You might want to check out my club’s website: http://www.geocities.com/archersofcaledon/ This was designed and built strictly as an archery centre. It’s a real joy to have a facility of this calibre for shooting. We’re in Caledon, Ontario, Canada.  If you ever travel across the pond, please drop by – you’d be most welcome!

Response:

> You might want to check out my club’s website: > http://www.geocities.com/archersofcaledon/ > This was designed and built strictly as an archery centre. > It’s a real joy to have a facility of this calibre for shooting. > We’re in Caledon, Ontario, Canada.  If you ever travel across > the pond, please drop by – you’d be most welcome!

Requirements for an ideal Archery Centre…. 1. An indoor area with comfy seats where archers can have a nice cuppa and jaw about stuff between ends. 2. An automatic scoring target so scopes are unnecessary and we can all get on with it at a reasonable speed. 3. A professional coach available to offer really helpful tips when requested. 4. A decent shop where they really do keep the advertised equipment in stock. 5. A tuning advice service – run by someone who actually knows how to do this correctly.

Response:

> I am a final year architecture student in the UK, but perhaps more > importantly a regular archer. My thesis design project is to design a > ‘National Archery Centre’. On this basis I would welcome feedback on > existing good facilities i could perhaps visit, what you would want in an > archery centre and any other information you may feel i would benefit

from.. I am also an architecture student in the UK, and am returning to archery now. Can I sugest that you use the following terms.         – "Ego Lodge"         – "Bio-Dynamic Quiver Store"         – "Sustainable boss recycling cycle" mmmm architectural bullshit… Lots of space. Good netting. Good cafe and a shop. All that’s needed. DV

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am a final year architecture student in the UK, but perhaps more > importantly a regular archer. My thesis design project is to design a > ‘National Archery Centre’. On this basis I would welcome feedback on > existing good facilities i could perhaps visit, what you would want in an > archery centre and any other information you may feel i would benefit > from.. > I am also an architecture student in the UK, and am returning to archery > now. > Can I sugest that you use the following terms. >         – "Ego Lodge" >         – "Bio-Dynamic Quiver Store" >         – "Sustainable boss recycling cycle" > mmmm architectural bullshit… > Lots of space. Good netting. Good cafe and a shop. All that’s needed. > DV

Don’t forget the Bar!

Response:

> ‘National Archery Centre’. On this basis I would welcome feedback on > existing good facilities i could perhaps visit, what you would want in an > archery centre and any other information you may feel i would benefit

from.. In Europe, The Iris and Werner Center in Dauchingen, Germany. http://www.wernerbeiter.com Add a night club and few guest rooms and I’ll move right in:) MA

Response:

"simon.rispin" wrote > I am a final year architecture student in the UK, but perhaps more > importantly a regular archer. My thesis design project is to design a > ‘National Archery Centre’. On this basis I would welcome feedback on > existing good facilities i could perhaps visit, what you would want in an > archery centre and any other information you may feel i would benefit from..

Which Uni? If you are Uni, you might remember last year’s BUSA Outdoors (hosted by Imperial) at Lilleshall. That’s (I believe) the UK’s National Sports Centre. It’s kinda an Archery Centre as well, due to the fact that GNAS is there. Tom’s Thoughts for an archery centre? 90m indoors would be nice. Space for certainly clout and possibly flight outside. And tack on a decent size shop. Oh, and for location, somewhere where you don’t get much in the way of wind. (As in, 1500 feet above sea level could be a bit iffy.) HTH Tom

Response:

> Oh, and for location, somewhere where you don’t get much in the way of > wind. (As in, 1500 feet above sea level could be a bit iffy.)

Just had another thought – a high altitude will mess with your arrow flight due to different pressure. The higher you go, the further your arrows fly, the higher your sight marks. Likewise, the lower you go towards sea level, the lower your arrows will fly, and your sight marks will be. Like a certain Jason Elam trying for a 58 yard FG against the Ravens at sea level when he’s only really capable of it at Mile High …. idiot. Tom

Response:

Hiya, I am a final year architecture student in the UK, but perhaps more importantly a regular archer. My thesis design project is to design a ‘National Archery Centre’. On this basis I would welcome feedback on existing good facilities i could perhaps visit, what you would want in an archery centre and any other information you may feel i would benefit from.. Thank you in anticapation. Regards, Simon Rispin

Response:

The Archery Discussion Forum – http://board.onlinearchery.org .uk

Question:

Come and visit us at the Archery Discussion Forum today, talk to other archers from around the world, discuss problems new equipment or just chat. The Archery Discussion Forum http://board.onlinearchery.org.uk

Response:

Or try http://www.knhs-concordia.org A very comprehensive site (mainly in Dutch), with a forum, chat, Archery E-cards, Pictures, movies, patents etc etc. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Come and visit us at the Archery Discussion Forum today, talk to other > archers from around the world, discuss problems new equipment or just chat. > The Archery Discussion Forum > http://board.onlinearchery.org.uk

Response:

Recomend a scope

Question:

Can anyone recomend a good quality scope available in the UK. I dont want to spend excesive amounts of money. Regads Hands

Response:

>Can anyone recomend a good quality scope available in the UK. >I dont want to spend excesive amounts of money.

If you mean a SPOTTING scope, then http://www.archery-optics.co.uk/ have one for

2nd Class scores – how to improve? AND follow-through??

Question:

Hi, I’m consistantly shooting 2nd-Class (using the Australian Rating System) scores. I don’t seem to be able to improve in any great amounts, certainly not 1st class yet. Now, I don’t get to shoot more than once a week (I will be trying to build an home "range" one day, for practice after work in the hallway) so the obvious solution is to shoot more. This is currently an impossibility given the outdoor only club i’m in and the early darkness these days – hence the home practise idea. Other than shooting more ( and I KNOW someone will suggest I shoot more ) what can I do to improve my scores? I’ve noticed that I don’t have a long follow-through when I release too. My hand stays in basically the same position, i.e. doesn’t move back any further. I was told that my arrows are too long but I haven’t wanted to cut them because I’ve been considering new equipment (again I’ll get around to it one day!). Could it be possible that I am so far back, just getting the arrows through the clicker, that I have nowhere to follow through to? I really don’t think my arm can move any further back… Cheers hip

Response:

What part of Australia are you from? Where is your hand on your face and where are you alinging the string to on your site

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > I’m consistantly shooting 2nd-Class (using the Australian Rating System) > scores. > I don’t seem to be able to improve in any great amounts, certainly not 1st > class yet. > Now, I don’t get to shoot more than once a week (I will be trying to build > an home > "range" one day, for practice after work in the hallway) so the obvious > solution is to > shoot more. This is currently an impossibility given the outdoor only club > i’m in and > the early darkness these days – hence the home practise idea. > Other than shooting more ( and I KNOW someone will suggest I shoot more > ) > what can I do to improve my scores? > I’ve noticed that I don’t have a long follow-through when I release too. My > hand stays > in basically the same position, i.e. doesn’t move back any further. I was > told that my > arrows are too long but I haven’t wanted to cut them because I’ve been > considering > new equipment (again I’ll get around to it one day!). Could it be possible > that I am so > far back, just getting the arrows through the clicker, that I have nowhere > to follow > through to? I really don’t think my arm can move any further back… > Cheers > hip

Response:

East Melbourne. My hand is under my jaw bone on the side of my face. I use a shelf-tab and that is anchored on the right edge of my jaw bone. The string, as far as I know, is to the left of the sight ring at full draw. Probably along the edge of the sight window. cheers hip – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > What part of Australia are you from? Where is your hand on your face and > where are you alinging the string to on your site > Hi, > I’m consistantly shooting 2nd-Class (using the Australian Rating System) > scores. > I don’t seem to be able to improve in any great amounts, certainly not 1st > class yet. > Now, I don’t get to shoot more than once a week (I will be trying to build > an home > "range" one day, for practice after work in the hallway) so the obvious > solution is to > shoot more. This is currently an impossibility given the outdoor only club > i’m in and > the early darkness these days – hence the home practise idea. > Other than shooting more ( and I KNOW someone will suggest I shoot more > ) > what can I do to improve my scores? > I’ve noticed that I don’t have a long follow-through when I release too. > My > hand stays > in basically the same position, i.e. doesn’t move back any further. I was > told that my > arrows are too long but I haven’t wanted to cut them because I’ve been > considering > new equipment (again I’ll get around to it one day!). Could it be possible > that I am so > far back, just getting the arrows through the clicker, that I have nowhere > to follow > through to? I really don’t think my arm can move any further back… > Cheers > hip

Response:

First, don’t be discouraged. Archery isn’t a completely natural act so you  have to learn by doing. Also, if I remember rorrectly, you haven’t really been shooting very long, ie, you need to set your expectations correctly. Obviously your goal is to shoot the best you can, but remember that it takes time so set your expectations correctly. As to your follow through, your release hand should naturally move back some. Likewise, your bow hand should move forward (towards the target) and maybe to the left (right handed archer). My bet is that you are slightly collapsing on the shot. You are relaxing the muscles in your arms, shoulders, and back as you release the arrow. There is a gizmo called a Formaster. Some think it is a torture device, but it does work to let you see if you are maintaining muscle tension after the release. My suggestion is to get one and try it out. You can also use one to do reversals, a great way to build up shooting muscles without shooting. — Arlington, Massachusetts USA

Response:

Hi, I think second class is ok(!), advancement seems to come in small changes that can build slowly or make little bumps in the learning curve. You’ll notice that score-wise there is less and less between the classes as they increase. Stick at it. Is there a reason for your side of face draw position, or did you just adopt it to pull the most out of long arrows? I think people tend to go for a side-anchor to get more draw length if they need the extra power to reach the further distances. (they’ll all shoot me down now…) If you have the size and strength (what are your bow specs. and draw length?) you may like to try a regular point of chin, lips-kissing-the-string anchor. The advantage is that your chin stays there, your cheek point could vary quite a lot unless you are very careful. If you get the anchor point fixed, then get your target picture sorted, sight and string position consistent, you should get improvement.

> East Melbourne. My hand is under my jaw bone on the side of my face. > I use a shelf-tab and that is anchored on the right edge of my jaw bone. > The string, as far as I know, is to the left of the sight ring at full draw. > Probably along the edge of the sight window. > cheers > hip

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> What part of Australia are you from? Where is your hand on your face and > where are you alinging the string to on your site > > Hi, > > I’m consistantly shooting 2nd-Class (using the Australian Rating System) > > scores. > > I don’t seem to be able to improve in any great amounts, certainly not 1st > > class yet. > > Now, I don’t get to shoot more than once a week (I will be trying to build > > an home > > "range" one day, for practice after work in the hallway) so the obvious > > solution is to > > shoot more. This is currently an impossibility given the outdoor only club > > i’m in and > > the early darkness these days – hence the home practise idea. > > Other than shooting more ( and I KNOW someone will suggest I shoot more > > ) > > what can I do to improve my scores? > > I’ve noticed that I don’t have a long follow-through when I release too. > My > > hand stays > > in basically the same position, i.e. doesn’t move back any further. I was > > told that my > > arrows are too long but I haven’t wanted to cut them because I’ve been > > considering > > new equipment (again I’ll get around to it one day!). Could it be possible > > that I am so > > far back, just getting the arrows through the clicker, that I have nowhere > > to follow > > through to? I really don’t think my arm can move any further back… > > Cheers > > hip

Response:

> Hi, > I think second class is ok(!), advancement seems to come in small changes > that can build slowly or make little bumps in the learning curve. You’ll > notice that score-wise there is less and less between the classes as they > increase. Stick at it. Is there a reason for your side of face draw > position, or did you just adopt it to pull the most out of long arrows? > I think people tend to go for a side-anchor to get more draw length if they > need the extra power to reach the further distances. (they’ll all shoot me > down now…) If you have the size and strength (what are your bow specs. and > draw length?) you may like to try a regular point of chin,

It’s a TD3 with 39# limbs. I don’t know my draw length but I shoot with a clicker – could I just measure the arrows? From memory, the poundage when I’m at full draw with these arrows was about 41-42#. I haven’t managed to get hold of one of those bow scales to test it on recently though. > lips-kissing-the-string anchor. The advantage is that your chin stays

there, Sorry, need to clarify… what I meant is that I put the tab’s shelf under my chin slightly to the RHS. The string is aligned in the middle of my nose and my lips, in the traditional target archery style, although I don’t use a kisser button. > your cheek point could vary quite a lot unless you are very careful. If you > get the anchor point fixed, then get your target picture sorted, sight and > string position consistent, you should get improvement.

Thanks for that. I’ve been shooting only 30m for a while now so that I don’t bring sight settings into the long list of variables. I’m finding that I get tired by the end of the round (90 arrows) and put this down to not shooting enough. It’s hard to tell what part of my technique varies for each shot – I really need someone to watch me shoot I think. I’m still getting a sore bottom finger as well, even though I have the string in the finger joint – don’t know what I can do to fix this. Maybe if this new bow I keep talking about getting is longer? (Mine is a 20" riser w/ the Short limbs). How many people here get coaching of some sort? cheers hip – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> East Melbourne. My hand is under my jaw bone on the side of my face. > I use a shelf-tab and that is anchored on the right edge of my jaw bone. > The string, as far as I know, is to the left of the sight ring at full > draw. > Probably along the edge of the sight window. > cheers > hip > > What part of Australia are you from? Where is your hand on your face and > > where are you alinging the string to on your site > > > Hi, > > > I’m consistantly shooting 2nd-Class (using the Australian Rating > System) > > > scores. > > > I don’t seem to be able to improve in any great amounts, certainly not > 1st > > > class yet. > > > Now, I don’t get to shoot more than once a week (I will be trying to > build > > > an home > > > "range" one day, for practice after work in the hallway) so the > obvious > > > solution is to > > > shoot more. This is currently an impossibility given the outdoor only > club > > > i’m in and > > > the early darkness these days – hence the home practise idea. > > > Other than shooting more ( and I KNOW someone will suggest I shoot > more > > > ) > > > what can I do to improve my scores? > > > I’ve noticed that I don’t have a long follow-through when I release > too. > > My > > > hand stays > > > in basically the same position, i.e. doesn’t move back any further. I > was > > > told that my > > > arrows are too long but I haven’t wanted to cut them because I’ve been > > > considering > > > new equipment (again I’ll get around to it one day!). Could it be > possible > > > that I am so > > > far back, just getting the arrows through the clicker, that I have > nowhere > > > to follow > > > through to? I really don’t think my arm can move any further back… > > > Cheers > > > hip

Response:

Better than you might think, if you’re Surrey based. AFAIK Aussie 2nd class straddles 1st/2nd class in UK terms. Aussie first class starts just a smidgin under Bowman… The only valid reasons I know of to go for a side anchor (or any other reference position, for that matter) are that you find it repeatable and can get nicely in-line. The front of face position is great for repeatability, but for a lot of people, lousy for getting in-line. "extra power" – bad, bad, bad reason for a side anchor. A few fps aren’t going to matter if you’re out of line (bigger, faster groups!). Back to the main question: I suppose that the key to improvement is to settle on a style which can be repeated accurately each time (this ususally mean simplifying things as much as possible) then just plugging away at it. You need to work form into habit. Mostly you don’t improve by changing things, but by keeping them the same and just shooting. If any changes are made, *write them down* so it’s easy to revert if they don’t pan out. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi, > I think second class is ok(!), advancement seems to come in small changes > that can build slowly or make little bumps in the learning curve. You’ll > notice that score-wise there is less and less between the classes as they > increase. Stick at it. Is there a reason for your side of face draw > position, or did you just adopt it to pull the most out of long arrows? > I think people tend to go for a side-anchor to get more draw length if they > need the extra power to reach the further distances. (they’ll all shoot me > down now…) If you have the size and strength (what are your bow specs. and > draw length?) you may like to try a regular point of chin, > lips-kissing-the-string anchor. The advantage is that your chin stays there, > your cheek point could vary quite a lot unless you are very careful. If you > get the anchor point fixed, then get your target picture sorted, sight and > string position consistent, you should get improvement. > East Melbourne. My hand is under my jaw bone on the side of my face. > I use a shelf-tab and that is anchored on the right edge of my jaw bone. > The string, as far as I know, is to the left of the sight ring at full >  draw. > Probably along the edge of the sight window. > cheers > hip > > What part of Australia are you from? Where is your hand on your face and > > where are you alinging the string to on your site > > > Hi, > > > I’m consistantly shooting 2nd-Class (using the Australian Rating >  System) > > > scores. > > > I don’t seem to be able to improve in any great amounts, certainly not >  1st > > > class yet. > > > Now, I don’t get to shoot more than once a week (I will be trying to >  build > > > an home > > > "range" one day, for practice after work in the hallway) so the >  obvious > > > solution is to > > > shoot more. This is currently an impossibility given the outdoor only >  club > > > i’m in and > > > the early darkness these days – hence the home practise idea. > > > Other than shooting more ( and I KNOW someone will suggest I shoot >  more > > > ) > > > what can I do to improve my scores? > > > I’ve noticed that I don’t have a long follow-through when I release >  too. >  My > > > hand stays > > > in basically the same position, i.e. doesn’t move back any further. I >  was > > > told that my > > > arrows are too long but I haven’t wanted to cut them because I’ve been > > > considering > > > new equipment (again I’ll get around to it one day!). Could it be >  possible > > > that I am so > > > far back, just getting the arrows through the clicker, that I have >  nowhere > > > to follow > > > through to? I really don’t think my arm can move any further back… > > > Cheers > > > hip

Response:

i don’t think that the length of your arrows has anything to do with your dead follow through. I had the same problem and to solve it is just a matter of getting the draw from your arm and into your back. This is the hard part ,as it is not something that can be taught over the net. your best bet would be to ask a coach down at your club. Also go to www.archery-forum.com and sign up and post your questions there as most of the members of that site are from Victorian clubs.

> East Melbourne. My hand is under my jaw bone on the side of my face. > I use a shelf-tab and that is anchored on the right edge of my jaw bone. > The string, as far as I know, is to the left of the sight ring at full draw. > Probably along the edge of the sight window. > cheers > hip

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> What part of Australia are you from? Where is your hand on your face and > where are you alinging the string to on your site > > Hi, > > I’m consistantly shooting 2nd-Class (using the Australian Rating System) > > scores. > > I don’t seem to be able to improve in any great amounts, certainly not 1st > > class yet. > > Now, I don’t get to shoot more than once a week (I will be trying to build > > an home > > "range" one day, for practice after work in the hallway) so the obvious > > solution is to > > shoot more. This is currently an impossibility given the outdoor only club > > i’m in and > > the early darkness these days – hence the home practise idea. > > Other than shooting more ( and I KNOW someone will suggest I shoot more > > ) > > what can I do to improve my scores? > > I’ve noticed that I don’t have a long follow-through when I release too. > My > > hand stays > > in basically the same position, i.e. doesn’t move back any further. I was > > told that my > > arrows are too long but I haven’t wanted to cut them because I’ve been > > considering > > new equipment (again I’ll get around to it one day!). Could it be possible > > that I am so > > far back, just getting the arrows through the clicker, that I have nowhere > > to follow > > through to? I really don’t think my arm can move any further back… > > Cheers > > hip

Response:

>It’s a TD3 with 39# limbs. I don’t know my draw length but I shoot with a >clicker – could I just measure the arrows? From memory, the poundage when

If your arrows are the correct length, and your clicker is set right you should be able to do the following: Stand in front of a target (close range). Close your eyes (yep, hence the close range target). Relax your head, neck, shoulders. Come to pre-draw. Ensuring: (a) Your head hasn’t moved. (b) Your bow shoulder has moved as little as possible (keep it down) Come to full draw with the same two checks. Feel the pressure of the bow being supported by your skeletal structure. Now (without moving) open your eyes and look down at the clicker… is it on the point? It should take a small stretch from this point to drop the clicker… Repeat this a few times. If you aren’t consistently in the same place, your form isn’t ready for a clicker. If you aren’t consistently on the point, your arrows are too long or your clicker is in the wrong place. Video yourself. Compare this video with the GENERAL form of top archers. Is your body shape/shoulder/head position roughly the same? >tired by >the end of the round (90 arrows) and put this down to not shooting enough.

Everyone gets a little tired after 90 arrows (depending on how long you take to shoot them etc. etc.) Analyse your scores… how do they vary? Do they improve the more arrows you shoot? Do they get worse? Is there any consistency or pattern at all? If your scores get worse, then your form is collapsing as you tire. If they get better, then that’s good. If your style is static (i.e. no movement after the shot), this would indicate a reaction to the clicker. Try using a rubber stretch-band instead of the bow – pretend the clicker has dropped and let go – what happens to your hands? That’s the same reaction you want when you’re shooting your bow. Keep the movement going and attack the gold! >It’s hard to tell what part of my technique varies for each shot – I really >need >someone to watch me shoot I think.

Video. Great tool. Set the camera up and then watch it back. Make notes of what changes from the start to the end of the round. If you don’t have a camcorder, try to get a hold of a couple of large mirrors and set them up so that you can see your form as you shoot. >I’m still getting a sore bottom finger as well, even though I have the >string in >the finger joint – don’t know what I can do to fix this. Maybe if this new >bow >I keep talking about getting is longer? (Mine is a 20" riser w/ the Short >limbs).

20" riser and short limbs is definitely on the short side and will tend to give you "finger pinch", not only affecting arrow clearance but also putting more strain on your fingers. >How many people here get coaching of some sort?

I do. It’s invaluable IMO. Having someone experienced to bounce ideas off is very useful. They are often also are able to see when things are going bad before you notice yourself. But, like I said, video is the tool if you don’t have access to a coach.

Response:

>>I’m still getting a sore bottom finger as well, even though I have the >string in >the finger joint – don’t know what I can do to fix this. Maybe if this new >bow >I keep talking about getting is longer? (Mine is a 20" riser w/ the Short >limbs). > 20" riser and short limbs is definitely on the short side and will > tend to give you "finger pinch", not only affecting arrow clearance > but also putting more strain on your fingers.

Is it true that a longer bow has more stability (at the expense of cast)?  From the sounds of it (39# limbs but holding 41-42#) hippy’s draw length is about 29" which means he should be using ~68" bow. Hence if he were to use a proper size bow, he should gain a lot more in stability = smaller groups = higher scores.. btw hippy, which club are you in? Shawn

Response:

<snip> > Is it true that a longer bow has more stability (at the expense of cast)? >  From the sounds of it (39# limbs but holding 41-42#) hippy’s draw > length is about 29" which means he should be using ~68" bow. > Hence if he were to use a proper size bow, he should gain a lot more > in stability = smaller groups = higher scores..

Interesting. Well, I’m still saving and still have no idea what bow to actually get but I’ll make sure that it’s plenty long enough when I do get it. > btw hippy, which club are you in? > Shawn

Sherbrooke Archery Club in Upper Ferntree Gully, outer-eastern Melbourne, Victoria, Australia, Earth Are there many aussies in this group? Cheers hip

Response:

>>btw hippy, which club are you in? > Sherbrooke Archery Club in Upper Ferntree Gully, outer-eastern > Melbourne, Victoria, Australia, Earth > Are there many aussies in this group?

I’m in Box Hill City Archers. Shawn

Response:

Follow through: a couple of quick thoughts. So long as your draw hand does things consistently each time, don’t worry about it too much. The front arm is more important at that stage (last point of contact with the arrow). Commit to the shot and keep extending towards the target… Good follow through is the *result* of good form, not the cause. Get the rest right and it happens… if it doesn’t happen then fixing the symptom isn’t the way to go… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi, > I’m consistantly shooting 2nd-Class (using the Australian Rating System) > scores. > I don’t seem to be able to improve in any great amounts, certainly not 1st > class yet. > Now, I don’t get to shoot more than once a week (I will be trying to build > an home > "range" one day, for practice after work in the hallway) so the obvious > solution is to > shoot more. This is currently an impossibility given the outdoor only club > i’m in and > the early darkness these days – hence the home practise idea. > Other than shooting more ( and I KNOW someone will suggest I shoot more > ) > what can I do to improve my scores? > I’ve noticed that I don’t have a long follow-through when I release too. My > hand stays > in basically the same position, i.e. doesn’t move back any further. I was > told that my > arrows are too long but I haven’t wanted to cut them because I’ve been > considering > new equipment (again I’ll get around to it one day!). Could it be possible > that I am so > far back, just getting the arrows through the clicker, that I have nowhere > to follow > through to? I really don’t think my arm can move any further back… > Cheers > hip

Response:

I found the key to my grouping woes was post release shape; basically I was collapsing after the shot… when I concentrated on keeping the back active during and after the release [especially the left side pushing my bow arm...] I found my groups improved considerably. The same applies to the follwo through… if the right hand side of your back is active in pulling the string the follow through should be a natural reaction. Regards Ewan — Ewan Oughton 0143324 B.Sc. Comp. Sys [2nd Year] http://www.10xshot.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> i don’t think that the length of your arrows has anything to do with your > dead follow through. I had the same problem and to solve it is just a matter > of getting the draw from your arm and into your back. This is the hard part > ,as it is not something that can be taught over the net. > your best bet would be to ask a coach down at your club. > Also go to www.archery-forum.com and sign up and post your questions there > as most of the members of that site are from Victorian clubs. > East Melbourne. My hand is under my jaw bone on the side of my face. > I use a shelf-tab and that is anchored on the right edge of my jaw bone. > The string, as far as I know, is to the left of the sight ring at full > draw. > Probably along the edge of the sight window. > cheers > hip > > What part of Australia are you from? Where is your hand on your face and > > where are you alinging the string to on your site > > > Hi, > > > I’m consistantly shooting 2nd-Class (using the Australian Rating > System) > > > scores. > > > I don’t seem to be able to improve in any great amounts, certainly not > 1st > > > class yet. > > > Now, I don’t get to shoot more than once a week (I will be trying to > build > > > an home > > > "range" one day, for practice after work in the hallway) so the > obvious > > > solution is to > > > shoot more. This is currently an impossibility given the outdoor only > club > > > i’m in and > > > the early darkness these days – hence the home practise idea. > > > Other than shooting more ( and I KNOW someone will suggest I shoot > more > > > ) > > > what can I do to improve my scores? > > > I’ve noticed that I don’t have a long follow-through when I release > too. > > My > > > hand stays > > > in basically the same position, i.e. doesn’t move back any further. I > was > > > told that my > > > arrows are too long but I haven’t wanted to cut them because I’ve been > > > considering > > > new equipment (again I’ll get around to it one day!). Could it be > possible > > > that I am so > > > far back, just getting the arrows through the clicker, that I have > nowhere > > > to follow > > > through to? I really don’t think my arm can move any further back… > > > Cheers > > > hip

— Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

Nishizawa

Question:

Hi, Does anyone know where I can find any information on Nishizawa archery equipment on the web or in real life ? I’ve looked all over, but none of the local shops (in the Netherlands) seem to carry any Nishizawa stuff, and I can’t find any websites with it either. Any pointers are appreciated. .B

Response:

>Does anyone know where I can find any information on Nishizawa >archery equipment on the web or in real life ? >I’ve looked all over, but none of the local shops (in the >Netherlands) seem to carry any Nishizawa stuff, and I can’t >find any websites with it either. >Any pointers are appreciated.

There isn’t much in the Western world. Nishizawa now manufacture under the "N-products" banner. I don’t know of a website but I know that some of the Italian team shoot their products. Perhaps if Vittorio Frangili is around here somewhere he can advise you in more depth.

Response:

Hoi daaro, Je moet eens bellen naar Dutch Archery Specialist. Ik weet dat Pieter Custers ook met het merk schiet en zijn spullen daar heeft gehaald. Vraag het maar eens. Hun nummer is : 0475 493269 Grtz, Ron

Response:

No web site, as far as I know. In Italy, the limbs are  imported by Spigarelli, that also carries some stock of them. Have a look to http://www.arcosportspigarelli.com  or e-mail them. P.S. / Michele Frangilli, Matteo Bisiani, Mario Casavecchia, Ilario di Buo’ and Elena Maffioli are using these limbs (also) in the Italian team. Vic Vunderle was testing a pair of them in Porec on his Matthews riser (while Michele was teting the Agulla Ultra Carbon there, but this is another story..) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Does anyone know where I can find any information on Nishizawa >archery equipment on the web or in real life ? >I’ve looked all over, but none of the local shops (in the >Netherlands) seem to carry any Nishizawa stuff, and I can’t >find any websites with it either. >Any pointers are appreciated. > There isn’t much in the Western world. Nishizawa now manufacture under > the "N-products" banner. I don’t know of a website but I know that > some of the Italian team shoot their products. Perhaps if Vittorio > Frangili is around here somewhere he can advise you in more depth.

Response:

Best Zenit riser

Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Marc, > Just in case you don’t know, Vittorio really, *really* knows what he is > talking about. > -Mac > The Best Zenit riser has NO system to change the limbs/riser alignement. > The > manufacturer says that as he is supposed to make stright risers, there is > no > reason why manufacturers have to make bad limbs that need alignement. As a > matte of fact, he is quite righ. Why to accept to shoot with limbs that > are > NOT straight? And if limbs are not perfect, better to use them as they are > than change their axis and their planes of work. If limbs are very bad, > than > better to change them. > Vittorio Frangilli

Holy shit! Vittorio Frangilli posts in here? Im well impressed. Give my regards Michele, excellent shooter, I use the same riser / limb combo as he does no complaints Regards Ewan — Ewan Oughton http://www.10xshot.com — Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

Yes, it is very good of him to stop in and offer help – If we could all only shoot as well as his proteges! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Marc, > Just in case you don’t know, Vittorio really, *really* knows what he is > talking about. > -Mac > > The Best Zenit riser has NO system to change the limbs/riser alignement. > The > > manufacturer says that as he is supposed to make stright risers, there > is > no > > reason why manufacturers have to make bad limbs that need alignement. As > a > > matte of fact, he is quite righ. Why to accept to shoot with limbs that > are > > NOT straight? And if limbs are not perfect, better to use them as they > are > > than change their axis and their planes of work. If limbs are very bad, > than > > better to change them. > > Vittorio Frangilli > Holy shit! > Vittorio Frangilli posts in here? > Im well impressed. > Give my regards Michele, excellent shooter, I use the same riser / limb > combo as he does no complaints > Regards > Ewan > — > Ewan Oughton > http://www.10xshot.com > — > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

– TexARC publicize the sport of Archery! http://www.texasarchery.org Outgoing messages scanned for viruses by Nortons AV 2002

Response:

Hi everybody, I recently bought a Best Zenit riser. I found out how to change the weight and tiller, but I don’t know how to change the limb/riser alignement. For my old bow, a W&W Toz, I found this information on the W&W website, But I didn’t find the website of Best Archery. Does anybody knows if Best Archery have a website, and, if so, what there URL is? Or does anybody knows how to adjust the limb/riser alignement on a Best Zenit Riser? I would be very grateful if somebody could help me out. Thanks in advance, Marc

Response:

Let’s hope so. The name Frangilli was a considderable argument in the proces that finally made me choose the Best Zenit riser. Marc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Marc, > Just in case you don’t know, Vittorio really, *really* knows what he is > talking about. > -Mac > The Best Zenit riser has NO system to change the limbs/riser alignement. > The > manufacturer says that as he is supposed to make stright risers, there is > no > reason why manufacturers have to make bad limbs that need alignement. As a > matte of fact, he is quite righ. Why to accept to shoot with limbs that > are > NOT straight? And if limbs are not perfect, better to use them as they are > than change their axis and their planes of work. If limbs are very bad, > than > better to change them. > Vittorio Frangilli

Response:

The Best Zenit riser has NO system to change the limbs/riser alignement. The manufacturer says that as he is supposed to make stright risers, there is no reason why manufacturers have to make bad limbs that need alignement. As a matte of fact, he is quite righ. Why to accept to shoot with limbs that are NOT straight? And if limbs are not perfect, better to use them as they are than change their axis and their planes of work. If limbs are very bad, than better to change them. Vittorio Frangilli – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi everybody, > I recently bought a Best Zenit riser. I found out how to change the weight > and tiller, but I don’t know how to change the limb/riser alignement. For my > old bow, a W&W Toz, I found this information on the W&W website, But I > didn’t find the website of Best Archery. Does anybody knows if Best Archery > have a website, and, if so, what there URL is? Or does anybody knows how to > adjust the limb/riser alignement on a Best Zenit Riser? > I would be very grateful if somebody could help me out. > Thanks in advance, > Marc

Response:

Marc, Just in case you don’t know, Vittorio really, *really* knows what he is talking about. -Mac

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The Best Zenit riser has NO system to change the limbs/riser alignement. The > manufacturer says that as he is supposed to make stright risers, there is no > reason why manufacturers have to make bad limbs that need alignement. As a > matte of fact, he is quite righ. Why to accept to shoot with limbs that are > NOT straight? And if limbs are not perfect, better to use them as they are > than change their axis and their planes of work. If limbs are very bad, than > better to change them. > Vittorio Frangilli

Response:

This is all very true, but for reasons I won’t go in now, I am more or less obliged, or at least used, to buy my archery equipment on the internet. That’s wy I would appreciate a riser that provides riser/limb alignement. Of corse, that does’nt change the fact that you are right. If manufacturers can make correct risers, other manufacturers should be able to make correct limbs. Give my regards to Michele Frangilli, his name was one of the reasons wy I finally choose for the Best Zenit riser. Marc – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The Best Zenit riser has NO system to change the limbs/riser alignement. The > manufacturer says that as he is supposed to make stright risers, there is no > reason why manufacturers have to make bad limbs that need alignement. As a > matte of fact, he is quite righ. Why to accept to shoot with limbs that are > NOT straight? And if limbs are not perfect, better to use them as they are > than change their axis and their planes of work. If limbs are very bad, than > better to change them. > Vittorio Frangilli > Hi everybody, > I recently bought a Best Zenit riser. I found out how to change the weight > and tiller, but I don’t know how to change the limb/riser alignement. For > my > old bow, a W&W Toz, I found this information on the W&W website, But I > didn’t find the website of Best Archery. Does anybody knows if Best > Archery > have a website, and, if so, what there URL is? Or does anybody knows how > to > adjust the limb/riser alignement on a Best Zenit Riser? > I would be very grateful if somebody could help me out. > Thanks in advance, > Marc

Response:

Commercial…

Question:

Lancaster Archery in good all Pa, is a fine shop, great service, also they have a wide selection for 3D archery shooters.

Response:

I was there about 7 years ago working construction with my brother in RI… Had a Mach 6 with bad limbs ( Didn’t buy the bow from them ) & they went out of their way to be helpful…. Extremely long shooting lanes….. I live close to Lancaster Archery & pretty much get the same service when time allows to get over that way…. Both nice shops

> I was just in a somewhat local shop (80 minute drive) in Fall River, > Massachusetts, Trader Jan’s. They have in stock a pair of Aerotech and > a bunch of Axis riser. Their prices are competitive, I don’t remember > exactly, but think they are slightly cheaper than Lancaster Archery. > I don’t have any affiliation with them other than being a satisfied > customer, and they didn’t ask me to post this message. I just like to > support local shops that actually stock recurve equipment. My > experience is that this is very rare. > — > Arlington, Massachusetts USA

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I was just in a somewhat local shop (80 minute drive) in Fall River, Massachusetts, Trader Jan’s. They have in stock a pair of Aerotech and a bunch of Axis riser. Their prices are competitive, I don’t remember exactly, but think they are slightly cheaper than Lancaster Archery. I don’t have any affiliation with them other than being a satisfied customer, and they didn’t ask me to post this message. I just like to support local shops that actually stock recurve equipment. My experience is that this is very rare. — Arlington, Massachusetts USA

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I have been to Trader Jan’s many times in the old Red building across from Applebee’s resteraunt, up the elevator to the second floor down the hall, She is a very nice girl, and has struggled to keep her shop up to snuff in the city, because she loves the sport and couldn’t see herself doing anything else. Her prices are not bad, and the service is good too. I have shot down her shooting lanes a few times,overall a very good selection!  

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2nd Hand Recurve bow wanted

Question:

Hi does anyone know it there are any on sale in the Glasgow/Central Scotland area.  I’m a beginer so it doesn’t have to be the best! Around 36-38 Lbs.  I have a draw lenght of 28". Any help would be grand

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You could do worse than look on eBay (www.eBay.co.uk) Bows crop up now and then. Also, some of the club sites on the GNAS (www.gnas.org) web site LINKS page list have "STUFF FOR SALE" pages. Glasgow doesnt, but then, you probably knew that!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi does anyone know it there are any on sale in the Glasgow/Central > Scotland area.  I’m a beginer so it doesn’t have to be the best! > Around 36-38 Lbs.  I have a draw lenght of 28". > Any help would be grand

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hmm…. why not get an oak board, and carve one for yourself?? im just finishing up my first. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Hi does anyone know it there are any on sale in the Glasgow/Central >Scotland area.  I’m a beginer so it doesn’t have to be the best! >Around 36-38 Lbs.  I have a draw lenght of 28". >Any help would be grand

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There is a second hand equipment page on the Bedfordshire website at http://www.archerybeds.com run by the Clophill Club. You may find something there and you can also advertise your wants if your wish. Good luck Chris Carroll

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi does anyone know it there are any on sale in the Glasgow/Central > Scotland area.  I’m a beginer so it doesn’t have to be the best! > Around 36-38 Lbs.  I have a draw lenght of 28". > Any help would be grand

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