ASKING: slippery handles, any remedy?
Question:
> With dry skin hands, the wooden handles of bows fell slippery on the palm …..
I use plasticote (the rubber paint like stuff for tool handles) on my grip. Primarily because it is magnesium and can really freeze my fingers. You will need several coats to make it right. You can paint on the dip version or spray on from aeresol can. Surf to my site? http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/1847 Jack
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > So I ask… > 1. Is there any covering material that could resolve this "slipperiness" problem > by providing a better adhesion of the palm on the handle? > 2. Or is there any stuff that could be applied on the inside of the bow hand at > every shooting session (other than saliva)? > 3. Or maybe this more radical alternative: simply scraping off the varnish > covering the wooden handle, but… might this harm the bow in the long run? > (Here, me wonder what stuff primitives put on their bows if they put any; oil?) > 4. (This one I’ll probably give it a try if no one tells me he has tried it already) > Scrape off the varnish, then polish it with "furniture bee’s wax" or natural bee’s > wax wich is stickier.
If the bow you’re shooting is a (traditional) longbow (you’re a little ambiguous), then the grip usually has tennis-racket style tape around it – the technique is to hold it loosely, with the thumb near-vertical (difficult to explain, easy to show!); slipping probably means you’re holding too much on the thumb, not enough on the palm. If you’re shooting Olympic-recurve style (e.g. Radian, Eolla etc.), then slipping means a poor grip position, or a poor-shaped grip. The grip should be smooth, and allow the hand to ‘plug in’ to the bow throat. Again, slipping usually means too much weight on the thumb, although it could also be that you need to rotate knuckles from vertical to be more toward 45 deg. IMHO, gloves are a bad idea, as is roughening up the grip in any way. Hot, sweaty weather usually shows up bad bow hand positions! Get a good coach to have a look at you – this stuff is hard to explain in words…. — Hywel Owen — My grandmother started to walk five miles a day when she was 60 Now she’s 95 and we don’t know where the hell she is – Ellen de Generes
Response:
> 1. Is there any covering material that could resolve this "slipperiness" problem > by providing a better adhesion of the palm on the handle?
In Korean archery, the handle is covered with a 3M scouring pad (the flat type, no soap). It is secured with serving. Thomas
Response:
>1. Is there any covering material that could resolve this "slipperiness" problem >by providing a better adhesion of the palm on the handle?
I used a tennis racket grip wrap. The wetter it got the better it held to my hand. It is like a poures rubber material. Sorry I forgot the name. Talk to a tennis shop for ideas. Mark V. a Massachusetts bowhunter
Response:
Try rough-out leather (like a suede only more texture) also I’ve seen handles wrapped with leather thong, chamois strip, braided fishing line, birch bark, sheepskin… MT — It’s not the bible that’s filled with contradictions, It’s our brains that are filled with them. J. Vernon McGee
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->With dry skin hands, the wooden handles of bows fell slippery on the >palm >of the bow hand and this compels to a tighter grab, wich is to be >avoided >’cause the bow tends to pivot on >6 release. >Now, this goes especially for one-piece common wooden recurves whose >handle is almost straight vertical >I’m mystified. Around here, "one-piece common wooden recurves" never >have straight vertical handles. And, as a matter of fact, dry slippery >hands and slick grips are sought after, so as to minimize torque effect >on accuracy. A "straight vertical grip" is actually bad design for a >recurve, unless you want to wrap the grip and shoot the bow like a >longbow, gripping firmly. >When I’m shooting, and my palms happen to be sweaty, I rub them in the >dust before each shot. Some people carry talc for the purpose, which is >probably more classy! >If you want a non-slip grip material, which IMHO makes sense for >LONGBOWS but not well designed recurves, you might want to try tennis >racket grip tape, which comes in a variety of styles and materials. I >use the heavily padded black rubber variety in order to reduce shock. >Yes, even "no shock" longbows seem to be elbow killers vs. good >recurves. The tape serves the same purpose on a tennis racket, which >also has a "straight vertical grip" and also tends to cause elbow >problems.
I did my own grip 2 days choping wood, So as not to have to worry about slipery hands the handlle must be in the same position with or without wet hands. If you are beginning to slip or need using some king of wax or others products you are transmitting torque : hand position is not good do you own handlle so as to feel confortable hand relax when shooting I even oiled my handle to reproduced wet hands when i was choping it It takes time to do it try different grips from friends you might be lucky to find one fiting you Philippe Coulon
Response:
An ancient oriental traditional solution is sting-ray skin. I think you can get it from suppliers dealing with Japanese sword-fighting (bushido). If you want to go less traditional, what about the material for wrapping tennis racquet handles available in most sports shops? — Stephen Selby | (Intellectual Property (IP) Department, Hong Kong (HK)) | | See our WWW Information Centre at – | | http://www.houston.com.hk/hkgipd/ | | Please, ALWAYS, use licensed and registered computer software |
Response:
>With dry skin hands, the wooden handles of bows fell slippery on the palm >of the bow hand and this compels to a tighter grab, wich is to be avoided >’cause the bow tends to pivot on >6 release. >Now, this goes especially for one-piece common wooden recurves whose >handle is almost straight vertical
I’m mystified. Around here, "one-piece common wooden recurves" never have straight vertical handles. And, as a matter of fact, dry slippery hands and slick grips are sought after, so as to minimize torque effect on accuracy. A "straight vertical grip" is actually bad design for a recurve, unless you want to wrap the grip and shoot the bow like a longbow, gripping firmly. When I’m shooting, and my palms happen to be sweaty, I rub them in the dust before each shot. Some people carry talc for the purpose, which is probably more classy! If you want a non-slip grip material, which IMHO makes sense for LONGBOWS but not well designed recurves, you might want to try tennis racket grip tape, which comes in a variety of styles and materials. I use the heavily padded black rubber variety in order to reduce shock. Yes, even "no shock" longbows seem to be elbow killers vs. good recurves. The tape serves the same purpose on a tennis racket, which also has a "straight vertical grip" and also tends to cause elbow problems.
Response:
With dry skin hands, the wooden handles of bows fell slippery on the palm of the bow hand and this compels to a tighter grab, wich is to be avoided ’cause the bow tends to pivot on 6 release. Now, this goes especially for one-piece common wooden recurves whose handle is almost straight vertical and forces the archer to twist his wrist in order to have the inside of his hand match the handle, a twisting that complicates the elbow clearing and puts the whole arm in a unnatural position. I’ve tried to cover the handle with the leather (inner surface out) but it still stays too slippery. So I ask… 1. Is there any covering material that could resolve this "slipperiness" problem by providing a better adhesion of the palm on the handle? 2. Or is there any stuff that could be applied on the inside of the bow hand at every shooting session (other than saliva)? 3. Or maybe this more radical alternative: simply scraping off the varnish covering the wooden handle, but… might this harm the bow in the long run? (Here, me wonder what stuff primitives put on their bows if they put any; oil?) 4. (This one I’ll probably give it a try if no one tells me he has tried it already) Scrape off the varnish, then polish it with "furniture bee’s wax" or natural bee’s wax wich is stickier. Any comment would be much appreciated, fellas, before I take a radical solution on an impulse and end up finding out how many calories delivers a wooden recurve in the wood stove! Opinions welcomed here on REC.SPORT.ARCHERY Jean-Pierre "dry hands" Gagnon, sorry if this message appears twice for it wasn’t published the day after my first sending, so I shoot it once more.
Response:
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->With dry skin hands, the wooden handles of bows fell slippery on the palm >of the bow hand and this compels to a tighter grab, wich is to be avoided >’cause the bow tends to pivot on >6 release. >Now, this goes especially for one-piece common wooden recurves whose >handle is almost straight vertical and forces the archer to twist his wrist in >order to have the inside of his hand match the handle, a twisting that >complicates the elbow clearing and puts the whole arm in a unnatural >position. >I’ve tried to cover the handle with the leather (inner surface out) but it still >stays too slippery. >So I ask… >1. Is there any covering material that could resolve this "slipperiness" problem >by providing a better adhesion of the palm on the handle?
Any number of commercially available remedies. If leather is still to slick for you maybe try some of the self adhesive neoprene products. The stuff I use as silencing material is soft and textured, can’t imagine it being slippery (I don’t use it on the handle, I *like* a smooth handle). The fleece stuff would probably work also. Lot’s of other materials out there. >2. Or is there any stuff that could be applied on the inside of the bow hand at >every shooting session (other than saliva)?
I use baseball rosin when shooting darts. It’s available in small cloth bags, you just pick up the bag and shake it in your hand for a moment. There is another type which is more chalky (might even be chalk) that comes loose in cans. Just sink your hand into it. Again, lot’s of options here. I personally wouldn’t want any extra friction on my bow hand but that’s just me. >3. Or maybe this more radical alternative: simply scraping off the varnish >covering the wooden handle, but… might this harm the bow in the long run? >(Here, me wonder what stuff primitives put on their bows if they put any; oil?) >4. (This one I’ll probably give it a try if no one tells me he has tried it already) >Scrape off the varnish, then polish it with "furniture bee’s wax" or natural bee’s >wax wich is stickier. >Any comment would be much appreciated, fellas, before I take a radical solution >on an impulse and end up finding out how many calories delivers a wooden >recurve in the wood stove!
Whoa… no need to go burning a good bow. You shouldn’t have much trouble getting as much friction between your bow hand and the grip as your heart desires. >Opinions welcomed here on REC.SPORT.ARCHERY >Jean-Pierre "dry hands" Gagnon, sorry if this message appears twice for >it wasn’t published the day after my first sending, so I shoot it once more.
- David Affleck
