ARCHERS DODGE A BULLET !!! Archery Not among Events to be Cut from Olympic Program The International Olympic Committee is going to cut some events and entire sports from the Olympic program to size down the Olympic Games. Last month, the Olympic Program Commission of the IOC published its recommendations, and we
Hi, Does anyone know where I can find any information on Nishizawa archery equipment on the web or in real life ? I’ve looked all over, but none of the local shops (in the Netherlands) seem to carry any Nishizawa stuff, and I can’t find any websites with it either. Any pointers are appreciated. .B
>Does anyone know where I can find any information on Nishizawa >archery equipment on the web or in real life ? >I’ve looked all over, but none of the local shops (in the >Netherlands) seem to carry any Nishizawa stuff, and I can’t >find any websites with it either. >Any pointers are appreciated.
There isn’t much in the Western world. Nishizawa now manufacture under the "N-products" banner. I don’t know of a website but I know that some of the Italian team shoot their products. Perhaps if Vittorio Frangili is around here somewhere he can advise you in more depth.
Hoi daaro, Je moet eens bellen naar Dutch Archery Specialist. Ik weet dat Pieter Custers ook met het merk schiet en zijn spullen daar heeft gehaald. Vraag het maar eens. Hun nummer is : 0475 493269 Grtz, Ron
No web site, as far as I know. In Italy, the limbs are imported by Spigarelli, that also carries some stock of them. Have a look to http://www.arcosportspigarelli.com or e-mail them. P.S. / Michele Frangilli, Matteo Bisiani, Mario Casavecchia, Ilario di Buo’ and Elena Maffioli are using these limbs (also) in the Italian team. Vic Vunderle was testing a pair of them in Porec on his Matthews riser (while Michele was teting the Agulla Ultra Carbon there, but this is another story..) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Does anyone know where I can find any information on Nishizawa >archery equipment on the web or in real life ? >I’ve looked all over, but none of the local shops (in the >Netherlands) seem to carry any Nishizawa stuff, and I can’t >find any websites with it either. >Any pointers are appreciated. > There isn’t much in the Western world. Nishizawa now manufacture under > the "N-products" banner. I don’t know of a website but I know that > some of the Italian team shoot their products. Perhaps if Vittorio > Frangili is around here somewhere he can advise you in more depth.
Anybody out there that knows where to find authorized dealers for Martin Archery and Darton in the Seattle (WA) area? Thanks.
Try their home page at : http://www.martinarchery.com They should be able to tell you who the authorized dealers are in your area. Jim C.
Hoyt redline H.O. Has anyone shot one? What do you think?
I currently own A Hoyt Striker II Redline with H.O. IT has a peak weight of 70lbs. and at my short draw length of 27" I think it is an excellent bow. It was a choice of this bow or a Matthews MQ1 and even though the Mathews was a more expensive bow, I felt that the Hoyt had a lot more to offer. It shoots very quick and has the best bow grip. I can adjust the bow draw lentgh as needed and I like that fact very much. I don’t find my bow vibrating much at all and it is straight shooting. I cannot say enough about this bow. I like the fact that this Striker II is used for all aspects of archery. They use it for 3D, FITA Target, Field and Hunting. As a target bow setup it breaks world records (Dave Cousins) and as a 3D bow it wins a lot of money! Check out the bow at the Hoyt website. You can email me with specific questions if you like. Sam – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hoyt redline H.O. > Has anyone shot one? What do you think?
Have had several 3 Dshoots with it and I prefer the Matthews solo cam ,better speed and smaller price tag.
I won a Hoyt MagnaTec, I just purchased it as I was getting back into archery after a 15 year hyatus. I almost bought the Hoyt Striker, however chose the magnatec as it was a little less expensive. I ma very pleased with my Hoyt and would reccomend there products to any one – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hoyt redline H.O. > Has anyone shot one? What do you think?
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A friend has a bow that has had the sight screw holes are now striped and will not hold the screws. Is there a easy method to fill the holes and then retab to 8 x 32 thred size. If so, what is it called and where can you buy it. thanks Bill
You can purchase a helical thread insert kit at an automotive store. The thread size is 10-24; all bows. The kit consists of a tap drill , special tap, insert and an insertion tool.Before you buy all this for a one time fix, Stop at your local Pro shop, He may have it. Also check out the yellow pages for a small machine shop. They will help Joe – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > A friend has a bow that has had the sight screw holes are now striped and > will not hold the screws. Is there a easy method to fill the holes and then > retab to 8 x 32 thred size. If so, what is it called and where can you buy > it. thanks Bill
If the sight screw holes are 8-32 then retap the holes to the AMO standard of 10-24. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > A friend has a bow that has had the sight screw holes are now striped and > will not hold the screws. Is there a easy method to fill the holes and then > retab to 8 x 32 thred size. If so, what is it called and where can you buy > it. thanks Bill
|> You can purchase a helical thread insert kit at an automotive store. The thread |> size is 10-24; all bows. Is it really 10-24? I thought it was 10-32. In any case, you can buy a tap and an appropriately sized drill at many hardware stores. If you have never done this sort of thing before, do a little bit of practicing. If you have a drill press to drill out the hole, use it. It is sometimes very difficult to drill a hole with the proper alignment by hand. Marty Sasaki
My experience with archery shops is somewhat limited; however , the one in Austin (Awestin to all yew yankees) has all the tools needed for this kind of operation, including a small drill press. I’d recommend that you NOT do this yourself, but rather take it to someone who has done it before. Why screw up a good riser?<pardon the pun> — ARC in Lago Vista, TX "For an ethic is not an ethic, and a value not a value without some sacrifice to it. Something given up something not taken something not gained. We do it in exchange for a greater good for something worth more than just money and power and position the great paradox of this philosophy is that in the end it brings one greater gain than any other philosophy - Jerry Kohlberg "
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > |> You can purchase a helical thread insert kit at an automotive store. The thread > |> size is 10-24; all bows. > Is it really 10-24? I thought it was 10-32. > In any case, you can buy a tap and an appropriately sized drill at many hardware > stores. If you have never done this sort of thing before, do a little bit of > practicing. If you have a drill press to drill out the hole, use it. It is > sometimes very difficult to drill a hole with the proper alignment by hand. > Marty Sasaki
>A friend has a bow that has had the sight screw holes are now striped and >will not hold the screws. Is there a easy method to fill the holes and then
The easiest and best way is to simply drill new holes and tap them. If you do not own the proper drill bit and tap it might be more economical to have a pro shop drill and tap the riser. The sight mount bracket will coverconceal the old stripped out holes.
Just a reminder: Many bows break in this area. If it were my bow I wouldn’t drill any more holes. Joe – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > A friend has a bow that has had the sight screw holes are now striped and > will not hold the screws. Is there a easy method to fill the holes and then > retab to 8 x 32 thred size. If so, what is it called and where can you buy > it. thanks Bill
: The easiest and best way is to simply drill new holes and tap them. If you : do not own the proper drill bit and tap it might be more economical to have : a pro shop drill and tap the riser. The sight mount bracket will : coverconceal the old stripped out holes. This is NOT the best way: - Any more material removal than necessary is a minus. - Heli-coil (or equivelant) inserts are stronger than the original since they are higher strength material, allow better engagement for non-perfect thread pitch and have more contact area with the softer riser material due to their increased diameter. They are basically a diamond cross section spring wire sized and would to match the thread pitch of the existing screw. - You don’t conceal anything except a very slightly larger threaded area. -Scot — *** ANTI-SPAM ALERT *** Note the "removethis." in the return address. *** Scot E. Heath, P.E. "Nothing beats turning clay to dust." Fort Collins, CO
If you do go with this method I’d suggest filling the old holes with a two part metal weld epoxy (I’ve used J.B. Weld with good results). Make sure you overfill the hole a bit. This way you can sand it down smooth later and match the color with some touch up paint. Drilling the old holes out and installing inserts would probably be a better option though. If you do not have the right equipment or experience, I would suggest letting a proshop do it however. Peter Gussie Midwest Cimmarron Archery Richmond, IL U.S. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > : The easiest and best way is to simply drill new holes and tap them. If you > : do not own the proper drill bit and tap it might be more economical to have > : a pro shop drill and tap the riser. The sight mount bracket will > : coverconceal the old stripped out holes.
I am looking to find a college with a good club. I would like to see of any of the numerous colleges I am looking at Have clubs. I also would like to know how good they are. I am going to be a high school senior this year and I am looking at a college for next year. I will be a transfer student since my state has a program where I can go to college this year and the state will pay for it. I have to stay within the state though. I have been shooting for a few years now and I have progressed to the point that I am close to as good as the national shooters that I have seen at state. They beat me more often than I beat them but I give it to their experience more than anything. I also started shooting the Olympic Recurve and I progress very fast. I am not as good as I could be right now but most of the shooters I know think that I am better than the really cheap bow I bought. I have shot a few of their Hoyts and PSE bows and I shoot alot better with the higher quality bows. What I need most is a good coach and practice. Alot of practice. I really would like to find a college that could help me to improve my shooting along with give me a good education. I forgot to mention I will be going to school for Computer Science. — Archeryking
What state are you in ??? >I am looking to find a college with a good club. I would like to see of any >of the numerous colleges I am looking at Have clubs. I also would like to >know how good they are. I am going to be a high school senior this year and >I am looking at a college for next year. I will be a transfer student since >my state has a program where I can go to college this year and the state >will pay for it. I have to stay within the state though.
[snip] – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Archeryking
The NAA has a list and section for college clubs try www.usarchery.org also what state are you in? Jeff Glasberg
Hi Archers, again my question. I am looking for a draw stof for a MARTIN Scepter with wooden XR limbs and Tri Draw Flite Wheels. After a hint from this group, I tried this plastic stuff on the cables. But I can screw the "screw" like a devil, it does not hold. When I hold my back tension in the moment I will "release", the draw stop goes 1mm or 2mm. Any other hints? — Bye, Sven
: I am looking for a draw stof for a MARTIN Scepter : with wooden XR limbs and Tri Draw Flite Wheels. There are a few things to try. One is the Sure-lok clicker which is supposed to be made out of metal and might be better than the plastic stops. Don Kudlacheck (I hope that I spelled that correctly) can make a set of cams that will work on the XR limbs. These cams have a hard stop. You might try some Wallbangers, which are gizmos that you attach to your wheels that provide a solid stop. I think that with the setup you have (which is the same as my setup) you will have to move the y-cables to the outside of the limbs rather than right next to the wheel in order to make room for the Wallbangers. Depending on the price of the Wallbangers, I might try this, or possibly a set of Dpn K’s cams. Marty Sasaki
>Don Kudlacheck (I hope that I spelled that correctly) can make a set >of cams that will work on the XR limbs. These cams have a hard stop.
Any idea where I can find him? I am in Germany. Has Don an own web site? >You might try some Wallbangers, which are gizmos that you attach to >your wheels that provide a solid stop. I think that with the setup you >have (which is the same as my setup) you will have to move the >y-cables to the outside of the limbs rather than right next to the >wheel in order to make room for the Wallbangers.
Never heard before. Any URL where I can see that stuff? — Bye, Sven
Try Quicks web-site to view the wallbangers, and maybe contact Kudlacek via Alternative Sporting Services who market other items of his. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Don Kudlacheck (I hope that I spelled that correctly) can make a set >of cams that will work on the XR limbs. These cams have a hard stop. >Any idea where I can find him? >I am in Germany. Has Don an own web site? >You might try some Wallbangers, which are gizmos that you attach to >your wheels that provide a solid stop. I think that with the setup you >have (which is the same as my setup) you will have to move the >y-cables to the outside of the limbs rather than right next to the >wheel in order to make room for the Wallbangers. >Never heard before. Any URL where I can see that stuff? >– >Bye, >Sven
I don’t think you could mount Wallbangers on Flite wheels. And on XR limbs cams would be risky. Check correctly your draw lenght, because with wheels generally the stop is no longer needed. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Try Quicks web-site to view the wallbangers, and maybe contact Kudlacek via >Alternative Sporting Services who market other items of his. >>Don Kudlacheck (I hope that I spelled that correctly) can make a set >>of cams that will work on the XR limbs. These cams have a hard stop. >Any idea where I can find him? >I am in Germany. Has Don an own web site? >>You might try some Wallbangers, which are gizmos that you attach to >>your wheels that provide a solid stop. I think that with the setup you >>have (which is the same as my setup) you will have to move the >>y-cables to the outside of the limbs rather than right next to the >>wheel in order to make room for the Wallbangers. >Never heard before. Any URL where I can see that stuff? >– >Bye, >Sven
>Check correctly your draw lenght, because with wheels generally the stop is >no longer needed.
Please, could you explain that? Sometimes I get the feeling, I overdraw the bow. — Bye, Sven
: I don’t think you could mount Wallbangers on Flite wheels. I think this is wrong. The folks who make Wallbangers, Vital Sight, sent me some information and a full size drawing/tracing of the HTPC walbanger, for Hoyt PerformaCam, PowerCam, CommandCam 98 & 99, and Accuwheels. Mounting the wallbanger requires a hole in the cam to receive a screw. The flite wheel has two bushings, one for 65% and one for 50% letoff. It looks like the bushing can be used with a threaded insert (provided with the wallbanger). It will be necessary to move the Y-yoke attachments to the outside of the limbs (they are right next to the wheels right now), which would mean longer axels and some spacers to properly place the wheel. I’m trying to contact these folks to find out about cost and whether I can return the wallbangers if they don’t fit. : And on XR limbs cams would be risky. Don Kudlacheck recommends a fairly mild cam. He has sold a bunch of them and hasn’t had any complaints, at least that’s what he says. Using something like a Fury cam is probably a bad idea though. If it was a useful combination Martin would probably have marketed a bow with Fury cams and XR limbs. : Check correctly your draw lenght, because with wheels generally the stop is : no longer needed. This makes no sense to me at all. The wheels have a very wide valley with slowly rising back wall. I haven’t measured it, but I know that my draw length could vary over an inch withoud strict attention to what I was doing. This variation means that a different amount of energy was transmitted to the arrow during differnt shots. It also means, which is more important, that your form can change a lot from shot to shot. A solid wall means that you can’t pull any further and your draw length is the same. It also allows you to set up a little (or a lot) more back tension before releasing the arrow, which will result in a cleaner release. This probably doesn’t matter so much indoors or in short range hunting situations, but at 90 meters it could result in a big difference in score… Marty Sasaki
First, if you could go to the nearest PRO (not any other) shop and get your bow set to your draw lenght. If not, you can: On flite wheels you have three slots, giving 3" between them. If your pigtail cable (the one that connects the string) is on the middle slot you can go 1" more or 1" less in draw lenght. You feel to overdraw the bow so you need longer draw length, i. e., more cable around the wheel. Go to the Martin handbook and see what they say about adjusting draw length. You’ll need a bow press, and good know how to do the adjustment. If you don’t have any slot to go, you have two options. Buying biger wheels or, if you use a release a longer rope. With round wheels, with their longer valley it’s not need a draw stop. It’s difficult to explain in e-mail the proceedings to change draw lenght. The best advice I can give you is see someone that could do the job, because putting draw stops in your case is only covering a baddly setup bow. Best regards Pedro
>I think this is wrong.
I can agree with you. Anyone with some skill and good devices good even make wheels, so of course you could what you want, but it’s not a simple and direct way. Remember that Wallbangers aren’t made for flite wheels, the most close are Accuwheel. >Don Kudlacheck recommends a fairly mild cam.
Flite wheels are already soft cams. >: Check correctly your draw lenght, because with wheels generally the stop is >: no longer needed. >This makes no sense to me at all.
When you shoot a compound good form is vital. Trying to put draw stops to "stop" form variations is a bad idea, and groups will suffer. Best regards Pedro
: First, if you could go to the nearest PRO (not any other) shop and get your : bow set to your draw lenght. First, it doesn’t take a pro shop to set draw length correctly. Several books have been written on how to set up compound bows. Many people have written articles here in the news groups giving hints and such. It does take access to a bow press of some type. : On flite wheels you have three slots, giving 3" between them. If your : pigtail cable (the one that connects the string) is on the middle slot you : can go 1" more or 1" less in draw lenght. You can go further and put one wheel in one slot and another wheel in a different slot. In fact, that’s the way my bow is set up currently. Oh, and I lengthened my string slightly. : With round wheels, with their longer valley it’s not need a draw stop. : It’s difficult to explain in e-mail the proceedings to change draw lenght. : The best advice I can give you is see someone that could do the job, because : putting draw stops in your case is only covering a baddly setup bow. Of course you don’t need draw stops. But it’s not deniable that they can help people be more consistant. I suppose you could say that I just need to do more practice, and it’s true, but having draw stops makes more consistant now, and makes archery more fun for me now, which is really important for me. I’m human, maybe you are not. When I get tired I get a little sloppy so my draw length is a little more or a little less. This changes my form and changes the energy that goes into the arrow. If I were a more perfect being than I wouldn’t need the little crutches that I have in my life. You really shouldn’t assume that my bow is badly set up. It isn’t. It could be a little better set up, but I haven’t been shooting much recently and things change. You also shouldn’t assume that a pro shop can do a better job than I can do. There are plenty of pro shops with people who know what they are doing, but I can name two in my area who are just a little bit better than completely clueless. Marty Sasaki
: When you shoot a compound good form is vital. Trying to put draw stops to : "stop" form variations is a bad idea, and groups will suffer. You are half right here. I agree if I had better form overall, then I wouldn’t desire draw stops. But by that reasoning, Olympic archers shouldn’t need clickers and compound archers shouldn’t need releases or peep sights or kisser buttons. But the top archers use clickers and releases and peep sights. Are they all inadequate like me? 
I’ll also be sure to mention the fact that pulling to stops is bad and that scores and groups will suffer to two local members of the U.S. Archery Team. Can someone who has contact with Terry and Michelle Ragsdale notify them for me? Thanks. Marty Sasaki
One point I forgot to answer…
: You feel to overdraw the bow so you need longer draw length, i. e., more : cable around the wheel. I carefully set up the draw length to be at the center of the valley. I used a bow scale to measure this and tried very hard to make sure that this was the most comfortable spot. When I start shooting I’m right there. I know this because I put marks on my cables to see where I was drawing. Over time I start drifting. I also notice that my draw slightly lengthens as I aim. This is probably an artifact from shooting Olympic style where I’m pulling through a clicker. If I lengthened the bow’s draw length I would probably be shooting just behind the front wall, which actually might be easier to be consistant with… Marty Sasaki
>: With round wheels, with their longer valley it’s not need a draw stop. >: It’s difficult to explain in e-mail the proceedings to change draw lenght. >: The best advice I can give you is see someone that could do the job, because >: putting draw stops in your case is only covering a baddly setup bow. >Of course you don’t need draw stops. But it’s not deniable that they >can help people be more consistant. I suppose you could say that I >just need to do more practice, and it’s true, but having draw stops >makes more consistant now, and makes archery more fun for me now, >which is really important for me. >I’m human, maybe you are not. When I get tired I get a little sloppy >so my draw length is a little more or a little less.
THAT is the problem! In a tournamet, after 50 or 60 shots, I get sloopy as well. So, by instinct, I try to draw harder and in that moment I draw TO hard! Thats what I mean with "overdraw". And I thought, it would be a good idea to use a draw stop. — Bye, Sven
Sell That Bow and buy a single cam bow. Money you need to invest in a correct shooting draw setup for you will be totally waisted and you will want a new bow at the end anyway, so why postpone the end result. Buy a new bow.. — – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –
I have the wallbangers on my hoyt-superstar-meridian with E-wheels. Gives the bow a perfect wall from which to shoot. Very good if you are using release and back tension release technique. Just put another on my hoyt-defiant-carbonite with the Master Cam. Did not need the "wall" benefit of the wallbangers for this cam but it allows me to tune to the front of the cam’s valley which has picked up some speed and again with back tension release – lets me shoot from same relative point of power curve. I also have a set on my wife’s bow hoyt-superstar-fastflight with E-wheels. I have used them, along with some interesting cable/string combination to move the bow down to about a 28# draw (neat – considering the bow is rated at 50#) Essentially, if you can practice alot – you don’t need these things. For us poor slobs that must work doing something other than shooting. It is a great "crutch". I have both the old wallbanger and new model. newer models look more "polished" in looks and mfg. My only concern is that the newer do not look as sturdy as the older. Of course the newer model should not damage the limbs if a string breaks as the older ones most likely would. Then again if your string breaks – chances are you can throw the limbs away too… my 0.02 + change… stephen.
Thanks to everyone who replied with help regarding a cut off saw for carbons.If it;s of any help to anyone else, I made a great one using an old sewing machine motor, you can even control the speed using the foot pedal. Thanks for a great group, Bill.
Just a warning, there are reports of serious respiratory problems cutting carbon fibers. It really should be done in a very controlled environment, with a water misting and negative pressure ventilation. Check with Bill Baker at Teepee Archery in Acton, Massachusetts for more info.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Thanks to everyone who replied with help regarding a cut off saw for >carbons.If it;s of any help to anyone else, I made a great one using an old >sewing machine motor, you can even control the speed using the foot pedal. > Thanks for a great group, > Bill.
> Just a warning, there are reports of serious respiratory problems cutting > carbon fibers. It really should be done in a very controlled environment, > with a water misting and negative pressure ventilation. > Check with Bill Baker at Teepee Archery in Acton, Massachusetts for more > info.
Thank you for this important information. I would appreciate a reference that is more generally accessible. Best regards - H.Oe.
>>Just a warning, there are reports of serious respiratory problems cutting >carbon fibers. It really should be done in a very controlled environment, >with a water misting and negative pressure ventilation. >Check with Bill Baker at Teepee Archery in Acton, Massachusetts for more >info.
I am curious, exactly what reports are there ? I have never seen a report of this kind but now I am very concerned. I had always heard carbon is inert. If you have a reference to a specific document or web page I would really appreciate it. Ken
: I am curious, exactly what reports are there ? I have never seen a report of : this kind but now I am very concerned. I had always heard carbon is inert. If : you have a reference to a specific document or web page I would really : appreciate it. I don’t have proof, but the notion that something which is largely inert can’t hurt you is crazy. Look at asbestos. It’s rock. It doesn’t burn, it doesn’t dissolve in common solvents, but chop it up into tiny pieces and you end up with lung disease. Black lung is the result of breathing coal dust for years. The thing to take away from this is to wear a good quality mask, or to have an excellent exhaust system to cut carbon or aluminum. Nether is going to be good for you. Marty Sasaki
Bill Baker of TEEPEE Archery has had to have a lung removed and blames carbon from arrows giving him black lung disease. He is in the process of or already has attempted to sue arrow manufacturers. Anybody that cuts anything should be wearing some sort of protection against airborne matter. Aluminum isn’t exactly good for you if you inhale enough of it. The discs that everyone uses to cut arrows with is made of carborundum which I’m sure has carbon as a primary component. I’ve never seen anything in print warning about the hazards of cutting arrows. I believe that it is only common sense to protect yourself.
do like I do for cutting arrows,either aluminum or carbon. I use a Dremel with the cut-off blades available for it. Does an excellent job and lets you de-burr and edges.
> do like I do for cutting arrows,either aluminum or carbon. I use a Dremel > with the cut-off blades available for it. Does an excellent job and lets you > de-burr and edges.
A razor saw, sold in most model making shops, might do the job and if it works it would be much cheaper than the Dremel. I have not got a clue if it would work or not, but it is a thought. Phil Phil
Have put up a program for download on my web site (link below) to assist in running an archery tournament. Hope some of you may find it useful. It’s a first pass with all my built in bias for UK outdoor archery. Any feedback on what would make the thing more useful would be appreciated. http://homepage.ntlworld.com/joetapley
well, you did mispell organizer (just kidding, you foreign guy you<GGG>) Downloading it now and have forwarded the page to the current DOS of the Texas State Shoot. He’s a mite bit busy, but if he has responses or suggestions I’ll forward it…. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Have put up a program for download on my web site (link below) to assist in > running an archery tournament. Hope some of you may find it useful. It’s a > first pass with all my built in bias for UK outdoor archery. Any feedback on > what would make the thing more useful would be appreciated. > http://homepage.ntlworld.com/joetapley
This looks great! I would suspect that having a single page of "what this is and how it works" text would be very useful. As the writer you look at the whole gestalt and know how it works, but as I look at the various options, it’s hard to know all of the steps one should follow, and what are the possibilities and functions inside some of the steps/features…. This program is a superb idea! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > well, you did mispell organizer (just kidding, you foreign guy you<GGG>) > Downloading it now and have forwarded the page to the current DOS of the Texas > State Shoot. He’s a mite bit busy, but if he has responses or suggestions I’ll > forward it…. > Have put up a program for download on my web site (link below) to assist in > running an archery tournament. Hope some of you may find it useful. It’s a > first pass with all my built in bias for UK outdoor archery. Any feedback on > what would make the thing more useful would be appreciated. > http://homepage.ntlworld.com/joetapley
> Any feedback on > what would make the thing more useful would be appreciated.
"Any feedback on what I’ve forgotten would be welcome" A Mac version? 
— Marc.
> With dry skin hands, the wooden handles of bows fell slippery on the palm …..
I use plasticote (the rubber paint like stuff for tool handles) on my grip. Primarily because it is magnesium and can really freeze my fingers. You will need several coats to make it right. You can paint on the dip version or spray on from aeresol can. Surf to my site? http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/1847 Jack
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > So I ask… > 1. Is there any covering material that could resolve this "slipperiness" problem > by providing a better adhesion of the palm on the handle? > 2. Or is there any stuff that could be applied on the inside of the bow hand at > every shooting session (other than saliva)? > 3. Or maybe this more radical alternative: simply scraping off the varnish > covering the wooden handle, but… might this harm the bow in the long run? > (Here, me wonder what stuff primitives put on their bows if they put any; oil?) > 4. (This one I’ll probably give it a try if no one tells me he has tried it already) > Scrape off the varnish, then polish it with "furniture bee’s wax" or natural bee’s > wax wich is stickier.
If the bow you’re shooting is a (traditional) longbow (you’re a little ambiguous), then the grip usually has tennis-racket style tape around it – the technique is to hold it loosely, with the thumb near-vertical (difficult to explain, easy to show!); slipping probably means you’re holding too much on the thumb, not enough on the palm. If you’re shooting Olympic-recurve style (e.g. Radian, Eolla etc.), then slipping means a poor grip position, or a poor-shaped grip. The grip should be smooth, and allow the hand to ‘plug in’ to the bow throat. Again, slipping usually means too much weight on the thumb, although it could also be that you need to rotate knuckles from vertical to be more toward 45 deg. IMHO, gloves are a bad idea, as is roughening up the grip in any way. Hot, sweaty weather usually shows up bad bow hand positions! Get a good coach to have a look at you – this stuff is hard to explain in words…. — Hywel Owen — My grandmother started to walk five miles a day when she was 60 Now she’s 95 and we don’t know where the hell she is – Ellen de Generes
> 1. Is there any covering material that could resolve this "slipperiness" problem > by providing a better adhesion of the palm on the handle?
In Korean archery, the handle is covered with a 3M scouring pad (the flat type, no soap). It is secured with serving. Thomas
>1. Is there any covering material that could resolve this "slipperiness" problem >by providing a better adhesion of the palm on the handle?
I used a tennis racket grip wrap. The wetter it got the better it held to my hand. It is like a poures rubber material. Sorry I forgot the name. Talk to a tennis shop for ideas. Mark V. a Massachusetts bowhunter
Try rough-out leather (like a suede only more texture) also I’ve seen handles wrapped with leather thong, chamois strip, braided fishing line, birch bark, sheepskin… MT — It’s not the bible that’s filled with contradictions, It’s our brains that are filled with them. J. Vernon McGee
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->With dry skin hands, the wooden handles of bows fell slippery on the >palm >of the bow hand and this compels to a tighter grab, wich is to be >avoided >’cause the bow tends to pivot on >6 release. >Now, this goes especially for one-piece common wooden recurves whose >handle is almost straight vertical >I’m mystified. Around here, "one-piece common wooden recurves" never >have straight vertical handles. And, as a matter of fact, dry slippery >hands and slick grips are sought after, so as to minimize torque effect >on accuracy. A "straight vertical grip" is actually bad design for a >recurve, unless you want to wrap the grip and shoot the bow like a >longbow, gripping firmly. >When I’m shooting, and my palms happen to be sweaty, I rub them in the >dust before each shot. Some people carry talc for the purpose, which is >probably more classy! >If you want a non-slip grip material, which IMHO makes sense for >LONGBOWS but not well designed recurves, you might want to try tennis >racket grip tape, which comes in a variety of styles and materials. I >use the heavily padded black rubber variety in order to reduce shock. >Yes, even "no shock" longbows seem to be elbow killers vs. good >recurves. The tape serves the same purpose on a tennis racket, which >also has a "straight vertical grip" and also tends to cause elbow >problems.
I did my own grip 2 days choping wood, So as not to have to worry about slipery hands the handlle must be in the same position with or without wet hands. If you are beginning to slip or need using some king of wax or others products you are transmitting torque : hand position is not good do you own handlle so as to feel confortable hand relax when shooting I even oiled my handle to reproduced wet hands when i was choping it It takes time to do it try different grips from friends you might be lucky to find one fiting you Philippe Coulon
An ancient oriental traditional solution is sting-ray skin. I think you can get it from suppliers dealing with Japanese sword-fighting (bushido). If you want to go less traditional, what about the material for wrapping tennis racquet handles available in most sports shops? — Stephen Selby | (Intellectual Property (IP) Department, Hong Kong (HK)) | | See our WWW Information Centre at – | | http://www.houston.com.hk/hkgipd/ | | Please, ALWAYS, use licensed and registered computer software |
>With dry skin hands, the wooden handles of bows fell slippery on the palm >of the bow hand and this compels to a tighter grab, wich is to be avoided >’cause the bow tends to pivot on >6 release. >Now, this goes especially for one-piece common wooden recurves whose >handle is almost straight vertical
I’m mystified. Around here, "one-piece common wooden recurves" never have straight vertical handles. And, as a matter of fact, dry slippery hands and slick grips are sought after, so as to minimize torque effect on accuracy. A "straight vertical grip" is actually bad design for a recurve, unless you want to wrap the grip and shoot the bow like a longbow, gripping firmly. When I’m shooting, and my palms happen to be sweaty, I rub them in the dust before each shot. Some people carry talc for the purpose, which is probably more classy! If you want a non-slip grip material, which IMHO makes sense for LONGBOWS but not well designed recurves, you might want to try tennis racket grip tape, which comes in a variety of styles and materials. I use the heavily padded black rubber variety in order to reduce shock. Yes, even "no shock" longbows seem to be elbow killers vs. good recurves. The tape serves the same purpose on a tennis racket, which also has a "straight vertical grip" and also tends to cause elbow problems.
With dry skin hands, the wooden handles of bows fell slippery on the palm of the bow hand and this compels to a tighter grab, wich is to be avoided ’cause the bow tends to pivot on 6 release. Now, this goes especially for one-piece common wooden recurves whose handle is almost straight vertical and forces the archer to twist his wrist in order to have the inside of his hand match the handle, a twisting that complicates the elbow clearing and puts the whole arm in a unnatural position. I’ve tried to cover the handle with the leather (inner surface out) but it still stays too slippery. So I ask… 1. Is there any covering material that could resolve this "slipperiness" problem by providing a better adhesion of the palm on the handle? 2. Or is there any stuff that could be applied on the inside of the bow hand at every shooting session (other than saliva)? 3. Or maybe this more radical alternative: simply scraping off the varnish covering the wooden handle, but… might this harm the bow in the long run? (Here, me wonder what stuff primitives put on their bows if they put any; oil?) 4. (This one I’ll probably give it a try if no one tells me he has tried it already) Scrape off the varnish, then polish it with "furniture bee’s wax" or natural bee’s wax wich is stickier. Any comment would be much appreciated, fellas, before I take a radical solution on an impulse and end up finding out how many calories delivers a wooden recurve in the wood stove! Opinions welcomed here on REC.SPORT.ARCHERY Jean-Pierre "dry hands" Gagnon, sorry if this message appears twice for it wasn’t published the day after my first sending, so I shoot it once more.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->With dry skin hands, the wooden handles of bows fell slippery on the palm >of the bow hand and this compels to a tighter grab, wich is to be avoided >’cause the bow tends to pivot on >6 release. >Now, this goes especially for one-piece common wooden recurves whose >handle is almost straight vertical and forces the archer to twist his wrist in >order to have the inside of his hand match the handle, a twisting that >complicates the elbow clearing and puts the whole arm in a unnatural >position. >I’ve tried to cover the handle with the leather (inner surface out) but it still >stays too slippery. >So I ask… >1. Is there any covering material that could resolve this "slipperiness" problem >by providing a better adhesion of the palm on the handle?
Any number of commercially available remedies. If leather is still to slick for you maybe try some of the self adhesive neoprene products. The stuff I use as silencing material is soft and textured, can’t imagine it being slippery (I don’t use it on the handle, I *like* a smooth handle). The fleece stuff would probably work also. Lot’s of other materials out there. >2. Or is there any stuff that could be applied on the inside of the bow hand at >every shooting session (other than saliva)?
I use baseball rosin when shooting darts. It’s available in small cloth bags, you just pick up the bag and shake it in your hand for a moment. There is another type which is more chalky (might even be chalk) that comes loose in cans. Just sink your hand into it. Again, lot’s of options here. I personally wouldn’t want any extra friction on my bow hand but that’s just me. >3. Or maybe this more radical alternative: simply scraping off the varnish >covering the wooden handle, but… might this harm the bow in the long run? >(Here, me wonder what stuff primitives put on their bows if they put any; oil?) >4. (This one I’ll probably give it a try if no one tells me he has tried it already) >Scrape off the varnish, then polish it with "furniture bee’s wax" or natural bee’s >wax wich is stickier. >Any comment would be much appreciated, fellas, before I take a radical solution >on an impulse and end up finding out how many calories delivers a wooden >recurve in the wood stove!
Whoa… no need to go burning a good bow. You shouldn’t have much trouble getting as much friction between your bow hand and the grip as your heart desires. >Opinions welcomed here on REC.SPORT.ARCHERY >Jean-Pierre "dry hands" Gagnon, sorry if this message appears twice for >it wasn’t published the day after my first sending, so I shoot it once more.
- David Affleck
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