What's the worst bass you ever owned?

Question:

> My worst bass is an Ibanez Destroyer.  Bought it in the 80’s because I > wanted to look cool in the hair band I was in at the time.  Look cool > is all I did, because this thing was a piece of shit and sounded > accordingly.  My $75 Bradley Steinberger copy sounds better than it > did.  I took it to a pawnshop and traded it for a necklace for my > wife.  Best thing I ever did with it.

Ibanez BTB 5-string…  I’ve since been told that I must’ve had a lemon, but there weren’t too many places on that neck where it didn’t buzz.  I took it to my local luthier and he tried all sorts of tricks to help, but the only thing left was to remove the frets, sand the fretboard and then refret it. I sold it… I might add also that the Neutrick jack was bad – every cable I tried slid around and created a storm of static.  Since it was under warranty, I contacted Ibanez and was told that "Neutrick jacks are never defective…" Okay???  Now what?  Well, after several phone calls, I got really p*ssed and wrote a nasty letter.  Then I blanket mailed it (with CC info) to every Ibanez facility on the planet:  West Coast; their PA offices; Japan… Approximately 15 copies addressed to various people… In about two weeks, I received a new jack and an Ibanez T-shirt in the mail. I had to pay to have the jack installed. So, Ibanez not only was my worst bass, it was also my worst experience dealing with a manufacturer of musical instruments. But I’m not bitter… Cheers, Mark

Response:

> The neck was as fat as a telephone pole cut in half, and it was heavier than > a pickup truck full of red necks heading to Sizzler.

LOL!! Sounds like the ‘89 Warwick Thumb 5 neckthrough I owned.  I think it was made out of petrified bubinga. I haven’t really had any bad basses, ever.  Except for my dad’s bass that I started out on.. it was a generic bass, with a generic metal covered pickup, with a crusty volume and tone pot and mile high action.. and flatwounds.  I spray painted it green for some reason. Jordan

Response:

An Eko EB0 copy. Pure crap.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Damn that’s a hard one…"worst" or "most dissappionting"? If it was the > lattter I’d have to say any number of Hofner’s I’ve owned and really tried hard > to like but just couldn’t.

Response:

I take that back.  My Aunt and Uncle owned a rental property and when the tenets moved out they left a Peavey T-40(?) behind.  They kindly offered it to me.  When I finally met up with my them they had huge smiles on their faces as the handed over this *free* bass with a neck so warped it was better suited for an archery range.  I smiled politely and said thanks as "What the …?" went through my head.  The strings were insanely tight. They had no idea that anything was wrong with the bass.  I loosened the strings all the way and let it sit for about a week.  I couldn’t take looking at that horribly warped neck anymore so pitched it into a dumpster. Bud

Response:

Gibson Grabber or might have been the hofner violin… the hofner wouldn’t stay in tune and the gibson was poorly finished…

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My worst bass is an Ibanez Destroyer.  Bought it in the 80’s because I > wanted to look cool in the hair band I was in at the time.  Look cool > is all I did, because this thing was a piece of shit and sounded > accordingly.  My $75 Bradley Steinberger copy sounds better than it > did.  I took it to a pawnshop and traded it for a necklace for my > wife.  Best thing I ever did with it.

Response:

I sure am enjoying these stories of your crappy basses.  Makes me feel like I got off light with my Ibanez Destroyer.  At least it looked cool and had a neck that was playable.  BTW, I will second the notion that Ibanez has the absolute worst customer service in the world.  I have had to deal with them twice, and the person on the other end was a complete asshole the first time making it sound like it was my fault that the bass wasn’t working properly.  The second time I got someone else who promised to send me a wiring diagram and never did.  SO even though I have played many nice Ibanez basses, I will never ever buy one again and I totally recommend that nobody else buys one either. I will take a lawsuit Rick or Jazz if anyone’s giving them away, though

Response:

A Bently P-bass copy that I received as a gift.  It weighed a ton, and the neck was so warped that it was impossible to get the strings to within a playable distance of the fretboard.  The electronics were shot and the nut was destroyed.  As it was my first bass, I didn’t know any of this and painfully learned to play on it.  I also learned how to solder and file a proper nut. Eventually some fool stole it, and I ended up buying a bass that didn’t hurt to play.  It was quite a revelation!

Response:

> This one. > http://tinyurl.com/f31v > That’s not the one I owned but is one just like it.  I bought mine in > 1972 off the captain of our high school wrestling team and tried to > impress girls with it.  I was not successful. > Kept it until I bought my first real bass – a spiffy new ‘75 Precision. > The Univox sucked but I still loved it.

I wish I still had my Hofner bass. No offense intended, but it was tons better looking than the one in your picture. Trying to play American rock and roll on it was a bit of a bummer. But it rocked on the English rock tunes of the era. Ed Cregger

Response:

> I wish I still had my Hofner bass. > No offense intended, but it was tons better looking than the one in > your > picture. > Trying to play American rock and roll on it was a bit of a bummer. > But it > rocked on the English rock tunes of the era.

No offense taken, Ed – that’s not a Hofner, it’s a cheap Univox copy. It was kinda ugly but I only paid $50 for it in 1972. Played like a $50 bass, too  ;-)

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I don’t think I ever bought a Bass I hated. > When I started playing I didn’t know any better, and nowadays I take the > attitude that just about ALL basses (and guitars) have something they do > well and it is up to the player to find and exploit it. > I’ve had a few that I fell out of love with fairly rapidly (notably every > Rickenbacker I ever owned) but even those I only unloaded to make money for > their replacements. > Probably the Basses I liked the least were the Rickenbackers and a Gibson G3 > I had. But they weren’t actually bad basses – they just turned out to be not > my "thing". > Thump

Like you, I never owned a bass that I hated. I guess the worst bass experience I ever had was when I had to use my brother’s Sears (Danelectro) super long scale bass for a few months in the late sixties. I came right from playing a Hofner violin shaped bass with a short scale, to my brother’s poorly finished 6×2" neck equipped alleged bass guitar. It sounded so good when my brother played it, that it really did a number on my ego. Later, after I had my own bass again, I asked to borrow it once to go deer hunting. I figured it would be a great arrow launcher, and if I got close enough to the deer, I could always beat it to death with the bass. My brother was not amused, but he did serve venison later that week… Ed Cregger

Response:

My first bass was the worst.  A big red Kingston hollow body short scale that was in the shape of Rickenbacker guitar (not bass).  Super high action that was never able to be corrected even after two visits to the repair shop.  Second worst was a Fender Bullet bass that I hacked on.  I installed Jackson P-bass replacement pickup.   It sounded terrible. Big thick neck.  Yuk. Bud

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My worst bass is an Ibanez Destroyer.  Bought it in the 80’s because I > wanted to look cool in the hair band I was in at the time.  Look cool > is all I did, because this thing was a piece of shit and sounded > accordingly.  My $75 Bradley Steinberger copy sounds better than it > did.  I took it to a pawnshop and traded it for a necklace for my > wife.  Best thing I ever did with it.

Response:

Mid-80’s Yamaha Motion Bass. Short or Med. scale, I can’t remember – total piece of shit. Couldn’t get a tone out of it to save my soul. I was playing with a rock cover band at the time – Doobies, Wings, Huey Lewis, S&G, that kind of stuff. There was no way to mod this thing without routing etc. Traded it for a Squier Jazz ….. I know, I know, what a step up.

Response:

A friend gave me a Hondo P-bass with a snapped truss rod. Completely unplayable. I could fit my hand between the strings and the neck. Worst bass I ever bought was an ESP B-1. Sounded fine in the store, but was crap at a gig. I gigged with it once and returned it. I also briefly had an Epiphone EB-0. Bought it just for rehearsals, but hated it even for that. My band’s site: www.strongerthandirt.com

Response:

> My worst bass is an Ibanez Destroyer.  Bought it in the 80’s because I > wanted to look cool in the hair band I was in at the time.  Look cool > is all I did, because this thing was a piece of shit and sounded > accordingly.  My $75 Bradley Steinberger copy sounds better than it > did.  I took it to a pawnshop and traded it for a necklace for my > wife.  Best thing I ever did with it.

First bass I owned was a Westone Spectrum II (I think). Cheapest bass in the shop. Horrible.

Response:

Mine was a Squier P, 5 string. Really crappy pickups, and the B was pretty weak. Wes – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Without a doubt, a Guild B-302.  Bought it new for $375 which took a lot of > mowing lawns to save.  I was a stupid young kid, there was only 1 music store > within walking/bus distance and it was the first bass I played with roundwound > strings.  My first bass was a Carlo Robelli [Ibanez] copy of a Rickenbacker > which was a great bass.  The only thing I didn’t like about it was the sound > and feel [WAIT].  What I realized was the cause was that when I bought it, I > thought rough strings would be painful so I bought a set of Rotosound heavy > flats which I found very difficult.  When I played the Guild, it had light > roundwounds which I found easy and loved the piano-like tone so I assumed it > was a better bass.  I traded the Rick copy that I bought at that store for > $150.  [As an aside, they gave me $115 for it and later re-sold it for $175 > which really pissed me off after the way he told me it was not worth much and > he'd be lucky to get what I last paid for it--not a way to get a future sale > from me].  So I get the Guild home.  Put my strap on [calm down] and watch the > neck dive to the ground.  Worst balance ever.  Next, I notice how the pickups > pickup every little finger noise and I mean EVERY.  In fact, I could literally > talk into it and hear myself as if it was a microphone.  I’ve never encountered > such microphonic pickups since.  It even picked up radio stations.  Then I > notice that I can literally put a deep gouge in the wood with my finger nail as > if the wood was balsa (which may explain part of the neck-dive; more on this). > Then I notice that I’m getting shocks and that static electricity is building > up on the back of the body.  I live with this crap for a few weeks (it was not > easy getting this to the store myself) as the neck develops a nice bow making > it impossible to play.  I bring it back and they adjust the rod.  I watched and > didn’t know this was bad at the time but they turned it a few full turns until > it was max’ed.  I said I was not happy with it and asked that it be sent to > Guild.  When it came back, I was told that’s the best they could do.  So, bad > balance, microphonic pickups, static that not only shocks me but crackles and > pops through my amp as the bass rubs against my shirt (this was in Summer > too–humid), a warped neck and a light soft wood body.  A few weeks later, when > pulling the cord out of the bass, the entire pickguard assembly came with it > and every little screw went flying across my floor (17 of ‘em if I recall). > What the hell kind of wood did I get?  Needless to say after getting no > satisfaction from the dealer or Guild, I dumped it at a huge loss with masking > tape holding the pickguard on.  Funny but a few years later, I played an > identical Guild (used) at Sam Ash now that I was old enough to take the train > alone.  The wood was much heavier and more solid so I must have had a really > inferior piece of wood. Too bad Guild would not stand behind it.

Response:

Without a doubt, a Guild B-302.  Bought it new for $375 which took a lot of mowing lawns to save.  I was a stupid young kid, there was only 1 music store within walking/bus distance and it was the first bass I played with roundwound strings.  My first bass was a Carlo Robelli [Ibanez] copy of a Rickenbacker which was a great bass.  The only thing I didn’t like about it was the sound and feel [WAIT].  What I realized was the cause was that when I bought it, I thought rough strings would be painful so I bought a set of Rotosound heavy flats which I found very difficult.  When I played the Guild, it had light roundwounds which I found easy and loved the piano-like tone so I assumed it was a better bass.  I traded the Rick copy that I bought at that store for $150.  [As an aside, they gave me $115 for it and later re-sold it for $175 which really pissed me off after the way he told me it was not worth much and he'd be lucky to get what I last paid for it--not a way to get a future sale from me].  So I get the Guild home.  Put my strap on [calm down] and watch the neck dive to the ground.  Worst balance ever.  Next, I notice how the pickups pickup every little finger noise and I mean EVERY.  In fact, I could literally talk into it and hear myself as if it was a microphone.  I’ve never encountered such microphonic pickups since.  It even picked up radio stations.  Then I notice that I can literally put a deep gouge in the wood with my finger nail as if the wood was balsa (which may explain part of the neck-dive; more on this). Then I notice that I’m getting shocks and that static electricity is building up on the back of the body.  I live with this crap for a few weeks (it was not easy getting this to the store myself) as the neck develops a nice bow making it impossible to play.  I bring it back and they adjust the rod.  I watched and didn’t know this was bad at the time but they turned it a few full turns until it was max’ed.  I said I was not happy with it and asked that it be sent to Guild.  When it came back, I was told that’s the best they could do.  So, bad balance, microphonic pickups, static that not only shocks me but crackles and pops through my amp as the bass rubs against my shirt (this was in Summer too–humid), a warped neck and a light soft wood body.  A few weeks later, when pulling the cord out of the bass, the entire pickguard assembly came with it and every little screw went flying across my floor (17 of ‘em if I recall). What the hell kind of wood did I get?  Needless to say after getting no satisfaction from the dealer or Guild, I dumped it at a huge loss with masking tape holding the pickguard on.  Funny but a few years later, I played an identical Guild (used) at Sam Ash now that I was old enough to take the train alone.  The wood was much heavier and more solid so I must have had a really inferior piece of wood. Too bad Guild would not stand behind it.

Response:

I don’t think I ever bought a Bass I hated. When I started playing I didn’t know any better, and nowadays I take the attitude that just about ALL basses (and guitars) have something they do well and it is up to the player to find and exploit it. I’ve had a few that I fell out of love with fairly rapidly (notably every Rickenbacker I ever owned) but even those I only unloaded to make money for their replacements. Probably the Basses I liked the least were the Rickenbackers and a Gibson G3 I had. But they weren’t actually bad basses – they just turned out to be not my "thing". Thump

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My worst bass is an Ibanez Destroyer.  Bought it in the 80’s because I > wanted to look cool in the hair band I was in at the time.  Look cool > is all I did, because this thing was a piece of shit and sounded > accordingly.  My $75 Bradley Steinberger copy sounds better than it > did.  I took it to a pawnshop and traded it for a necklace for my > wife.  Best thing I ever did with it.

Response:

> My worst bass is an Ibanez Destroyer.  Bought it in the 80’s because I > wanted to look cool in the hair band I was in at the time.  Look cool > is all I did, because this thing was a piece of shit and sounded > accordingly.  My $75 Bradley Steinberger copy sounds better than it > did.  I took it to a pawnshop and traded it for a necklace for my > wife.  Best thing I ever did with it.

Hah! You got off light. It would have to be my first bass. A plank of wood-chip composite, roughly hacked into a P shape, with a P pickup and a neck bolted on. Of course, the plank weighed a ton, and the composite couldn’t handle the tension, so the action was like almost 3/4 of an inch on the 12th fret. And I had to replace the neck screws because the board was stripping. But I did learn to play on that piece of crap. The most disappointing was a Washburn XB400 I got for my 21st Bday. I loved it it was pretty, it had TWO pickups instead of one… (my previous bass, wno replaced the plank, was a yamaha rbx p-copy… great bass) had active electronics… but soo afterwars I noticed it was really heavy, and the electronics wouldn’t sound like anything but shit unless the bass and the treble were maxed out. SO I was basically left with one tone (three if you count panning and that one tone wasn’t all that good, all bass and treble but no mid-bite. — Javier Gonzalez Nicolini – remove the .com to e-mail " "I don’t think so," said Rene Descartes.  Just then, he vanished.

Response:

This one. http://tinyurl.com/f31v That’s not the one I owned but is one just like it.  I bought mine in 1972 off the captain of our high school wrestling team and tried to impress girls with it.  I was not successful. Kept it until I bought my first real bass – a spiffy new ‘75 Precision. The Univox sucked but I still loved it.

Response:

> Damn that’s a hard one…"worst" or "most dissappionting"? If it was the > lattter I’d have to say any number of Hofner’s I’ve owned and really tried hard > to like but just couldn’t.

I can agree with that! I’ve never owned a Hofner (and never would), a friend of mine has one that’s his pride and joy. He proudly showed it to me and let me play it. YUK! It was far and away heads above any other bass I’ve ever met as the WORST bass in the world. ZERO sustain. Horrible tone. Cheapie parts. To this day I have NO idea why he thought that was such a wonderful instrument. {he did stress how light it was a lot!} As for "owned" mine was a Kingston P bass copy I got at an Amateur Radio flea market. At the time I was a newbie who was playing a short scale Kingston (which I still have, by the way), but the P bass was the pits. Fret buzz up the wazoo, bad tone, shoddy construction, PLUS I had to repair it FIRST to even play it. Eventually, it became a computer experiment. I took the neck apart and soldered a wire to each fret that came out in a large ribbon cable. The idea was to use the frets and strings to make "cross-point" switches to sense which note was being played to drive a synth. The synth would then track the volume of the plucked note. Cool idea, right? Wrong! I forgot that if TWO strings touch a fret it makes this path from one to the other and you get these "ghost" notes (Notes which play but are not actually fingered) appearing. Sigh! It’s still somewhere down in my guitar junk bin. Benj — Due to SPAM innundation above address is turned off!

Response:

A Cort Steinberger copy in the early ’80s. Uncomfortable to sit with. Uncomfortable to stand with. The neck twisted within weeks. Sounded thin. Wouldn’t tune. Paid full retail price for it used. Thinking about it makes me feel like a moron all over again. On the other hand the ‘76 pre, ‘78 Musicman, ‘59 Pre, Jerry Jones Longhorn, Tokai Jazz Bass (the lawsuit model), Westone Rail (I don’t care what anyone says it was great!), ‘84 – ‘57 re-issue Pre (that I still have), the mighty Azola Decobass (I also still have) and a few other good ones have kinda taken the edge off. jeffb

Response:

Damn that’s a hard one…"worst" or "most dissappionting"? If it was the lattter I’d have to say any number of Hofner’s I’ve owned and really tried hard to like but just couldn’t.

Response:

The only bass I’ve ever sold. My ‘77-78ish P bass. I bought it for $450 in the early 90’s and only kept it for a couple years. The neck was as fat as a telephone pole cut in half, and it was heavier than a pickup truck full of red necks heading to Sizzler. It sounded as fat as it was, but by the end of the 1st set with it, I was almost completely hunched over with the bass touching the stage. It was absolutely mint when I got it. I swapped the bridge to (believe it or not) a heavier one and later traded it on something I can’t even remember, but I broke even. I do miss it though, especially when I check how much they sell for now. Jay S

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My worst bass is an Ibanez Destroyer.  Bought it in the 80’s because I > wanted to look cool in the hair band I was in at the time.  Look cool > is all I did, because this thing was a piece of shit and sounded > accordingly.  My $75 Bradley Steinberger copy sounds better than it > did.  I took it to a pawnshop and traded it for a necklace for my > wife.  Best thing I ever did with it.

Response:

My worst bass is an Ibanez Destroyer.  Bought it in the 80’s because I wanted to look cool in the hair band I was in at the time.  Look cool is all I did, because this thing was a piece of shit and sounded accordingly.  My $75 Bradley Steinberger copy sounds better than it did.  I took it to a pawnshop and traded it for a necklace for my wife.  Best thing I ever did with it.

Response:

Hate to say it, but it was my ‘84(I think) Fender Elite P Bass. Bought it new from a local music store; I busted my ass washing dishes for a year to get that baby. It was my only bass for almost 10 years because I didn’t have the money to get another one. First off, The neck was as thick as a tree trunk, even for a P Bass. But what did I know? I sucked back then, so all basses were difficult for me to play. Second, it had the standard ’80’s active preamp technology, with tons of hi mid (and no way to get rid of it) that buzzed like a chainsaw. Also, it seems the preamp was VERY  touchy –  it was impossible for me to go from fingerstyle to slap without turning down the bass’ volume by at least half, and I was constantly  having to tweak volume levels on everything else. And it ate batteries like they were candy, even though I unplugged it between every set. Third, the damn recessed jack kept falling out and/or breaking, usually on a gig. Replaced it with a football jack which helped slightly. Last, and the final straw –   it developed  the dreaded "S-curve". Traded it to a music dealer who didn’t know any better and never looked back. Much like a first love,  it has a lot of sentimental value and good memories, even though the reality was rather shitty. — Learning funk bass? visit www.js3jazz.com/store.htm "Speaking the Truth in times of Universal deceit is a revolutionary act." — George Orwell

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My worst bass is an Ibanez Destroyer.  Bought it in the 80’s because I > wanted to look cool in the hair band I was in at the time.  Look cool > is all I did, because this thing was a piece of shit and sounded > accordingly.  My $75 Bradley Steinberger copy sounds better than it > did.  I took it to a pawnshop and traded it for a necklace for my > wife.  Best thing I ever did with it.

Response:

How Straight does a neck need to be?

Question:

> I bought a nice used P-bass about a month ago.  It has recieved little > use, and plays very nicely.  I just sighted down the neck, and it > appears very slightly bowed towards the strings.

Bowed TOWARDS the strings? No, it should be somewhere between flat and bowed AWAY from the strings, otherwise you will get buzz or you will have to set your strings uncomfortably high. I find a bass playable with neck relief (how low the frets are at the middle of the neck compared to the ends) somewhere between flat and maybe .025" though I like it best roughly midway in that range. YMMV.

Response:

Hi all Some time ago, I read a Roger Sadowski’s article about setting up a bass guitar. According to him, the trussrod adjustment should be just enough to avoid 1st fret buzz/rattle. I tried this with my Warwick Corvette and it worked fine. Just my two cents. Cristiano Oliveira – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I bought a nice used P-bass about a month ago.  It has recieved little > use, and plays very nicely.  I just sighted down the neck, and it > appears very slightly bowed towards the strings. > Should the neck appear this way?  I have a Les Paul that has the > flattest neck you have ever seen.  Should a bass be different? > Pete Collin > I prefer my bass necks to be nearly straight.. I tend to use far less relief > than any factory spec.. and more straight than most players. > You have to have a pretty good fingerboard and fret work to get away with > it. > But, yes, they do have some relief, and are supposed to, but it should play > nicely even so. > Twang! > — > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

> I bought a nice used P-bass about a month ago.  It has recieved little > use, and plays very nicely.  I just sighted down the neck, and it > appears very slightly bowed towards the strings. > Bowed TOWARDS the strings? No, it should be somewhere between flat and bowed > AWAY from the strings, otherwise you will get buzz or you will have to set > your strings uncomfortably high.

If you look at an archery bow. you could say the the bow was bowed toward the strings.. the middle of the bow is bowed away, but the ends bend toward.. I’m sure he meant the same thing. Twang! I find a bass playable with neck relief > (how low the frets are at the middle of the neck compared to the ends) > somewhere between flat and maybe .025" though I like it best roughly midway > in that range. YMMV.

— Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

> -Brian Pearl said…- > *…I found that it is best to wait 24 hrs before judging the > effectiveness of a truss rod adjustment…[/color] *

I recommend the same. — ‘My Website’ (http://tinyurl.com/l68a) posted via the bass forum at http://pointbeing.com

Response:

> I bought a nice used P-bass about a month ago.  It has recieved little > use, and plays very nicely.  I just sighted down the neck, and it > appears very slightly bowed towards the strings. > Should the neck appear this way?  I have a Les Paul that has the > flattest neck you have ever seen.  Should a bass be different? > Pete Collin

I prefer my bass necks to be nearly straight.. I tend to use far less relief than any factory spec.. and more straight than most players. You have to have a pretty good fingerboard and fret work to get away with it. But, yes, they do have some relief, and are supposed to, but it should play nicely even so. Twang! — Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

Response:

I like the way this page describes ’setting up’ a bass.  The only tricky part is that it lists metric feeler guages… http://www.wheatdesign.com/rmmbfaq.html#setup Bass Player also did a series of articles over 4 issues that thoroughly explains the different aspects of setting up a bass guitar (Nov ‘01, Dec ‘01, Jan ‘02 & Feb ‘02).  About a year ago, I decided to stop paying folks to tweak the truss rod, raise the strings and intonate the bridge – and the Bass Player articles were my initial handbook. There was also an article in Jan ‘03 about a bass tech at Berklee – very insightful. I’d recommend that all bass players learn to set up their instrument…it really taught me a lot about my basses.  Sure – it takes a while to get good at it…but it is pretty hard to REALLY screw up a bass, and over the long run saves a lot of $$. FWIW – I found that it is best to wait 24 hrs before judging the effectiveness of a truss rod adjustment… — be blessed…bp

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I bought a nice used P-bass about a month ago.  It has recieved little > use, and plays very nicely.  I just sighted down the neck, and it > appears very slightly bowed towards the strings. > Should the neck appear this way?  I have a Les Paul that has the > flattest neck you have ever seen.  Should a bass be different? > Pete Collin

Response:

it’s called relief and every bass (or guitar) must have it otherwise it’s almost unplayable. Have a look at Gary Willis’  pages for an explanation http://www.garywillis.com/pages/bass/bassmanual/setupmanual.html

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I bought a nice used P-bass about a month ago.  It has recieved little > use, and plays very nicely.  I just sighted down the neck, and it > appears very slightly bowed towards the strings. > Should the neck appear this way?  I have a Les Paul that has the > flattest neck you have ever seen.  Should a bass be different? > Pete Collin

Response:

Contary to the belief of many, a bass neck and fongerboad shouldn’t be laser straight.  However, it does have to be stable and in control, with a tiny amount of slope between the nut and the bottom of the fretboard, called ‘relief’.  It’s really a feel adjustment.  If you like the way the thing plays, don’t worry about changing it.  If a string buzzes at seemingly random spots on the neck, you could need a truss rod adjustment.  Under no circumstances do you turn the truss rod more than 1/4 turn at a time. One-eighth (1/8) turn at a time is wise.  After each  turn of the truss rod, re-string, re-tune, whatever it takes, and give the effect of the change a couple of hours to take hold.  Eventhough you may notice a change right off the bat, it may not set in fully right away.  All this is why if you like the bass the way it is, leave it be.  It can be a painstaking process…or relatively easy.  It just depends on the bass. Edward G. — "You don’t always get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get."  –Don King —

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I bought a nice used P-bass about a month ago.  It has recieved little > use, and plays very nicely.  I just sighted down the neck, and it > appears very slightly bowed towards the strings. > Should the neck appear this way?  I have a Les Paul that has the > flattest neck you have ever seen.  Should a bass be different? > Pete Collin

Response:

> I bought a nice used P-bass about a month ago.  It has recieved little > use, and plays very nicely.  I just sighted down the neck, and it > appears very slightly bowed towards the strings. > Should the neck appear this way?  I have a Les Paul that has the > flattest neck you have ever seen.  Should a bass be different? > Pete Collin

Needs a truss rod adjustment. Simple matter. — Neal Pollack The Bad Habit Allstars http://www.badhabitallstars.com Carbondale, CO, USA

Response:

> I bought a nice used P-bass about a month ago.  It has recieved little > use, and plays very nicely.  I just sighted down the neck, and it > appears very slightly bowed towards the strings. > Should the neck appear this way?  I have a Les Paul that has the > flattest neck you have ever seen.  Should a bass be different? > Pete Collin

That’s normal, and desirable, for a bass to have some bow in the neck.  It’s called "relief".  Read the FAQs at altguitarbass.com to learn more.

Response:

I bought a nice used P-bass about a month ago.  It has recieved little use, and plays very nicely.  I just sighted down the neck, and it appears very slightly bowed towards the strings. Should the neck appear this way?  I have a Les Paul that has the flattest neck you have ever seen.  Should a bass be different? Pete Collin

Response:

Adjusting the truss rod question

Question:

> Presuming the bass was set up right at one time, the most common causes of > too much relief are a variation in climactic conditions, in which case it > won’t buzz at the high frets, or if the player put heavier strings on, same > deal.

Absolutely.  You and I agree on that.  However, the original poster was experiencing buzz at the high frets.

Response:

> Presuming the bass was set up right at one time, the most common causes of > too much relief are a variation in climactic conditions, in which case it > won’t buzz at the high frets, or if the player put heavier strings on, > same > deal. > Absolutely.  You and I agree on that.  However, the original poster was > experiencing buzz at the high frets.

Exactly.

Response:

> "When you get fret buzz at the high frets, that’s an indication that your > neck has too much bow (relief).  You need to tighten the truss rod some." > and I thought Frank ought to try raising the saddles instead. > Raising the saddles when the relief is too great may eliminate the buzz, but > at the expense of making the action so high as to be unplayable.

Presuming the bass was set up right at one time, the most common causes of too much relief are a variation in climactic conditions, in which case it won’t buzz at the high frets, or if the player put heavier strings on, same deal.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > If neck has too much relief and strings are too low, buzz will appear > high > > on the neck. > Which is what always happens, as I said above. > "When you get fret buzz at the high frets, that’s an indication that your > neck has too much bow (relief).  You need to tighten the truss rod some." > and I thought Frank ought to try raising the saddles instead.

Not usually. If one part of the neck buzzes and another doesn’t, that is an idication the truss rod isn’t adusted properly. True, raising the action would probably minimize this, but it will have the effect that when you play harder, the high frets will buzz, and the bottom frets won’t. Also, rasing the action might be a problem for someone who is used to the action being lower.

Response:

> "When you get fret buzz at the high frets, that’s an indication that your > neck has too much bow (relief).  You need to tighten the truss rod some." > and I thought Frank ought to try raising the saddles instead.

Raising the saddles when the relief is too great may eliminate the buzz, but at the expense of making the action so high as to be unplayable.  Over the years, this has been one of the most common situations described in this forum.  When there’s too much relief, it causes the action to be too high in the middle of the neck, but right at the end of the neck, it’s low again, because the side view of the neck is like an archery bow.  To get the action low enough at the middle of the neck, you have to lower the saddles to the point where they are almost touching the neck at the tail end.  If the player complains of fret buzz at the tail end of the neck, and you ask if the saddles are almost bottomed out, the answer is almost always, "Yes". Vice-versa, if the player complains that the saddles are bottomed out but the action’s still too high:  "Do you get fret buzz at the tail end of the neck?"  "Yes."  Never seems to fail.  Basses always come from the factory with too much relief, and a lot of players don’t even know that it can be adjusted, they only think of raising the saddles.  A lot of players are just plain afraid to touch the truss rod, so they raise the saddles.  So, you get the archery effect.  Correcting action and playability problems has to start with proper neck relief, you always do that first.

Response:

>>>What does "um" mean, anyway? >It means he’s not trying to jump in your face like some 1/2 wit. >Cautiously addressing something… > Awwright, look, you — just because we’ve already got one guy named Dr. > Smartass in this group doesn’t mean I can’t be one, too.  As a matter of > fact, I’ll be a half-wit smartass.

That was actually a reference to a different "true half-wit" poster who pretends to post to worng news groups.  :-) —    O< (.) (.) /()    ^^

Response:

> Call MusicMakers on South Lamar and ask for Ohlee (O-Lee). > I have a vintage bass and I noticed a buzz on the higher frets.  When > I sight down the neck I notice that it is bowed.  It looks to me like > I need to adjust the truss rod.  My question is… do I do this with > the strings on and tensioned or with the strings off? > Also does anyone have the name/phone number of a good bass guitar > technician in Austin, TX?  I may want to have someone else give the > bass a going over to get it set up properly. > Thanks for any advice. > Frank

Thanks for everyone’s advice.  I guess we’ve all been here before… Frank

Response:

> > What does "um" mean, anyway? > It means he’s not trying to jump in your face like some 1/2 wit. > Cautiously addressing something…

Awwright, look, you — just because we’ve already got one guy named Dr. Smartass in this group doesn’t mean I can’t be one, too.  As a matter of fact, I’ll be a half-wit smartass.

Response:

Okay, no ums this time. > If neck has too much relief and strings are too high, there will be no buzz > anywhere.

But, this never happens, because the player will not tolerate the extremely high action this creates.  The player will instinctively lower the saddles to lower the action.  If there’s too much relief, the player can never get the saddles low enough to get the action he wants — but, the end result will be that there will be fret buzz, and it will come from the highest end of the neck.  This happens all the time, as demonstrated by the common posts here — "I’ve got my saddles bottomed all the way out against the bridge, but my action’s still too high."  Too much neck relief. > If neck has too much relief and strings are too low, buzz will appear high > on the neck.

Which is what always happens, as I said above. > If neck has correct relief and strings are too low, buzz will appear high on > the neck.

No, the buzz will be all over the neck. > If neck has insufficient relief and strings are too high, buzz appears

low. No, if there’s too little relief, the buzz will be at the lower frets, even if the strings are at the correct height. > If neck has insufficient relief and strings are too low, notes totally choke > out.

This is what happens here in Wisconsin every spring, as the humidity rises after the dry winter.  You take out a bass after it’s been sitting a while, and all the strings are plastered flat against the frets.

Response:

> If neck has too much relief and strings are too low, buzz will appear high > on the neck. > Which is what always happens, as I said above.

"When you get fret buzz at the high frets, that’s an indication that your neck has too much bow (relief).  You need to tighten the truss rod some." and I thought Frank ought to try raising the saddles instead.

Response:

I have a vintage bass and I noticed a buzz on the higher frets.  When I sight down the neck I notice that it is bowed.  It looks to me like I need to adjust the truss rod.  My question is… do I do this with the strings on and tensioned or with the strings off? Also does anyone have the name/phone number of a good bass guitar technician in Austin, TX?  I may want to have someone else give the bass a going over to get it set up properly. Thanks for any advice. Frank

Response:

>I have a vintage bass and I noticed a buzz on the higher frets.  When >I sight down the neck I notice that it is bowed.  It looks to me like >I need to adjust the truss rod.  My question is… do I do this with >the strings on and tensioned or with the strings off? >Also does anyone have the name/phone number of a good bass guitar >technician in Austin, TX?  I may want to have someone else give the >bass a going over to get it set up properly. >Thanks for any advice. >Frank

Keith and Robert at The Custom Shop, right around the corner from Ray Hennig’s, do good work. They handle basses and guitars, but they’re bassists first from what I hear. Most of the stores around town have someone who can do this, but the Custom Shop’s been around for awhile. Check ‘em out here: http://bassland.home.texas.net Since it’s vintage (and likely worth alot), I’d give strong consideration to having a pro do this, ESPECIALLY if you’ve never done it before.

Response:

> I have a vintage bass and I noticed a buzz on the higher frets.  When > I sight down the neck I notice that it is bowed.  It looks to me like > I need to adjust the truss rod.  My question is… do I do this with > the strings on and tensioned or with the strings off?

Depends.  With some vintage basses, you have to remove the neck to adjust the truss rod, so… With basses where you can access the truss rod without removing the body, you usually leave the tension on.  If you are flattening the neck, and the nut is pretty stiff, you should loosen the strings to see if it helps.  If it’s a vintage Rickenbacker, I believe you move the neck by external (hand) pressure, then tighten the nut when you have the preferred bow achieved. For more info: http://www.altguitarbass.com/faq.asp#Setup http://members.rogers.com/dbl-bass/setups.htm http://archive.bassplayer.com/gear/specs.shtml http://www.mrgearhead.net/faq/basssetup.html http://garywillis.com/pages/bass/bassmanual/setupmanual.html http://www.geocities.com/Hollywood/6203/page33.html http://www.harmony-central.com/Bass/setups.txt http://sadowsky.com/media/pdf/technical/bp0999_bass_setup.pdf http://www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/ElectricGuitarRepair.htm If you’re unsure, find a pro. —    O> /()    ^^

Response:

I always release the string pressure and adjust about a quarter turn at a time.  It is not hard to overadjust and put a back bow in the neck.  A back bow is sometimes impossible to get out without removing or sliding the fretboard, a real bummer and expensive.  I only remove the neck if there is no other way to get at the trussrod. Kirk

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a vintage bass and I noticed a buzz on the higher frets.  When > I sight down the neck I notice that it is bowed.  It looks to me like > I need to adjust the truss rod.  My question is… do I do this with > the strings on and tensioned or with the strings off? > Also does anyone have the name/phone number of a good bass guitar > technician in Austin, TX?  I may want to have someone else give the > bass a going over to get it set up properly. > Thanks for any advice. > Frank

Response:

> I have a vintage bass and I noticed a buzz on the higher frets.  When > I sight down the neck I notice that it is bowed.  It looks to me like > I need to adjust the truss rod.  My question is… do I do this with > the strings on and tensioned or with the strings off?

When you get fret buzz at the high frets, that’s an indication that your neck has too much bow (relief).  You need to tighten the truss rod some. Makes no difference if you do it with the strings on and tensioned or not (in my experience), but if you make the adjustment with the strings tensioned, be sure to re-tune the bass before checking the relief again. Make your adjustments in quarter-turn increments, and check after each adjustment.

Response:

> When you get fret buzz at the high frets, that’s an indication > that your neck has too much bow (relief).

Um, actually I think it means your saddles are too low.

Response:

> > When you get fret buzz at the high frets, that’s an indication > that your neck has too much bow (relief). > Um, actually I think it means your saddles are too low.

Um, when you have the correct relief in your neck, if the saddles are too low, you will get fret buzz uniformly across the entire neck.  Um, if the relief is too little, or is even negative, then you get buzz at the head end of the neck.  Um, if the relief is too great, you will have to lower your saddles way down, sometimes bottomed all the way out.  Um, if your saddles are all the way down, and your action is still too high, it means you have too much neck relief.  Um, if that is the case, and you adjust your neck relief properly, you will have to raise your saddles, because the strings will be lying flat on the neck. What does "um" mean, anyway?

Response:

Call MusicMakers on South Lamar and ask for Ohlee (O-Lee).

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a vintage bass and I noticed a buzz on the higher frets.  When > I sight down the neck I notice that it is bowed.  It looks to me like > I need to adjust the truss rod.  My question is… do I do this with > the strings on and tensioned or with the strings off? > Also does anyone have the name/phone number of a good bass guitar > technician in Austin, TX?  I may want to have someone else give the > bass a going over to get it set up properly. > Thanks for any advice. > Frank

Response:

> > When you get fret buzz at the high frets, that’s an indication > > that your neck has too much bow (relief). > Um, actually I think it means your saddles are too low. > Um, when you have the correct relief in your neck, if the saddles are too > low, you will get fret buzz uniformly across the entire neck.

No. If everything is set right when playing harder than normal, buzz is uniform. If neck has too much relief and strings are too high, there will be no buzz anywhere. If neck has too much relief and strings are too low, buzz will appear high on the neck. If neck has correct relief and strings are too low, buzz will appear high on the neck. If neck has insufficient relief and strings are too high, buzz appears low. If neck has insufficient relief and strings are too low, notes totally choke out.

Response:

> What does "um" mean, anyway?

It means he’s not trying to jump in your face like some 1/2 wit. Cautiously addressing something… —    O> /()    ^^

Response:

Any books/websites on DIY Longbow…??

Question:

Hello, I’m interested in making a traditional Longbow, and I’ve been looking for some guides/instructions on how to go about making the bow.  So far, most of the books I’ve found on the web are out of print… Does anyone know of any good books or websites describing the bow making process?? I will (of course) be using Yew. Many thanks, Jon

Response:

Here are some links http://www.primitivearcher.com/articles/bow-bld.html http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Gorge/6090/paslinks.html http://www.primitiveways.com/sapling_bow.html Or Try to search with following phrases: -bow building -primitive bow building -wood bow building – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello, > I’m interested in making a traditional Longbow, and I’ve been looking for > some guides/instructions on how to go about making the bow.  So far, most of > the books I’ve found on the web are out of print… Does anyone know of any > good books or websites describing the bow making process?? > I will (of course) be using Yew. > Many thanks, > Jon

Response:

Great links…. thanks!!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Here are some links > http://www.primitivearcher.com/articles/bow-bld.html > http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Gorge/6090/paslinks.html > http://www.primitiveways.com/sapling_bow.html > Or Try to search with following phrases: > -bow building > -primitive bow building > -wood bow building > Hello, > I’m interested in making a traditional Longbow, and I’ve been looking for > some guides/instructions on how to go about making the bow.  So far, most > of > the books I’ve found on the web are out of print… Does anyone know of > any > good books or websites describing the bow making process?? > I will (of course) be using Yew. > Many thanks, > Jon

Response:

>Hello, >I’m interested in making a traditional Longbow, and I’ve been looking for >some guides/instructions on how to go about making the bow.  So far, most of >the books I’ve found on the web are out of print… Does anyone know of any >good books or websites describing the bow making process?? >I will (of course) be using Yew. >Many thanks, >Jon

There’s a link to the Paul’s Archery pages and  Rob McNeur’s faq on my website: http://www.sinfield.demon.co.uk/bowsite If you come up with any other worthwhile links give me a shout. While you are there have a look at bow III. There must be something in the Trad Bowyers Bible but I’ve been concentrating on flat bows. I can’t get to it now, I’ll get back to you in a couple of weeks. You might also want to try alt.archery.traditional if your news server gets it (x-posted just in case) I’m starting another similar for a friend as soon as I get back from Spain in a couple of weeks. There must be something in the Trad Bowyers Bible but I’ve been concentrating on flat bows. I can’t get to it now, I’ll get back to you in a couple of weeks. Where did you manage to find the yew? David. — david sinfield http://www.sinfield.demon.co.uk/bowsite Please remove NG from address or I won’t see private replies until I clear out my junk folder.

Response:

The new issue of Archery Focus Magazine (I just got it in the mail yesterday!) has an article on making a longbow. Click on this link http://archeryfocus.com/ to see their website. To see the article itself, you would need to subscribe to the magazine, either in print or online.

Response:

English Yew  is no longer obtainable in fine enough grain for a

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hello, >I’m interested in making a traditional Longbow, and I’ve been looking for >some guides/instructions on how to go about making the bow.  So far, most of >the books I’ve found on the web are out of print… Does anyone know of any >good books or websites describing the bow making process?? >I will (of course) be using Yew. >Many thanks, >Jon > There’s a link to the Paul’s Archery pages and  Rob McNeur’s faq on my > website: > http://www.sinfield.demon.co.uk/bowsite > If you come up with any other worthwhile links give me a shout. > While you are there have a look at bow III. > There must be something in the Trad Bowyers Bible but I’ve been > concentrating on flat bows. I can’t get to it now, I’ll get back to you > in a couple of weeks. > You might also want to try alt.archery.traditional if your news server > gets it (x-posted just in case) > I’m starting another similar for a friend as soon as I get back from > Spain in a couple of weeks. > There must be something in the Trad Bowyers Bible but I’ve been > concentrating on flat bows. I can’t get to it now, I’ll get back to you > in a couple of weeks. > Where did you manage to find the yew? > David. > — > david sinfield > http://www.sinfield.demon.co.uk/bowsite > Please remove NG from address or I won’t see private replies until I clear out > my junk folder.

Response:

> English Yew  is no longer obtainable in fine enough grain for a > bow

I must tell my boyer that. He keeps making me bows from English yew that seem to work OK. — William Black On time, on budget, or works; Pick any two from three

Response:

Thanks.  I also found some really good books, ‘The Traditional Bowyer’s Bible’, comes in 3 volumes… should keep me going for a bit Cheers, Jon

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The new issue of Archery Focus Magazine (I just got it in the mail > yesterday!) has an article on making a longbow. Click on this link > http://archeryfocus.com/ to see their website. > To see the article itself, you would need to subscribe to the magazine, > either in print or online.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> There’s a link to the Paul’s Archery pages and  Rob McNeur’s faq on my > website: > http://www.sinfield.demon.co.uk/bowsite > If you come up with any other worthwhile links give me a shout. > While you are there have a look at bow III. > There must be something in the Trad Bowyers Bible but I’ve been > concentrating on flat bows. I can’t get to it now, I’ll get back to you > in a couple of weeks. > You might also want to try alt.archery.traditional if your news server > gets it (x-posted just in case) > I’m starting another similar for a friend as soon as I get back from > Spain in a couple of weeks. >. > Where did you manage to find the yew? >English Yew  is no longer obtainable in fine enough grain for a

Just back from Spain looking for property. Come to think of it a lot of the yew a few hundred years ago came from Italy (if I remember correctly <g>) — david sinfield http://www.sinfield.demon.co.uk/bowsite Please remove NG from address or I won’t see private replies until I clear out my junk folder.

Response:

archery back stop netting & boss stand & foam targets for sale – UK

Question:

hi i have back stop netting approx, 12′ by 12′. wire to hang it up by. target stand. (tripod) 2 foam targets (not wrecked). & rubber back stop for foam target.

6 weeks after breaking my elbow…

Question:

Last Sunday, 501 for an 18m FITA, using the training bow still. Came dead last (handicap) in the club indoor champs 2 weeks ago : ( Arm still too sore for more than 6 arrows using my Hoyt GM Missing out on practice too much! For those who missed them & are interested in the unnecessarily gory, the x-rays are available www.petersamuels.co.uk Remember, keep at least one foot on the floor, at the top of a flight of stairs!

Response:

Pete – I forget – are you working with a physical therapist, and more importantly if you are,   are you following his directions<G>  ??   bravado and not a little derring-do: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Last Sunday, 501 for an 18m FITA, using the training bow still. >Came dead last (handicap) in the club indoor champs 2 weeks ago : ( >Arm still too sore for more than 6 arrows using my Hoyt GM >Missing out on practice too much! >For those who missed them & are interested in the unnecessarily gory, >the x-rays are available www.petersamuels.co.uk >Remember, keep at least one foot on the floor, >at the top of a flight of stairs!

Response:

Hi Tex! Yes! (as far as our national health service allows – 2 Visits in 6 weeks) & Yes! (well kinda sortof! Very difficult to judge whats too much & whats not enough)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Pete – I forget – are you working with a physical therapist, and more > importantly if you are,   are you following his directions<G>  ?? > bravado and not a little derring-do: >Last Sunday, 501 for an 18m FITA, using the training bow still. >Came dead last (handicap) in the club indoor champs 2 weeks ago : ( >Arm still too sore for more than 6 arrows using my Hoyt GM >Missing out on practice too much! >For those who missed them & are interested in the unnecessarily gory, >the x-rays are available www.petersamuels.co.uk >Remember, keep at least one foot on the floor, >at the top of a flight of stairs!

Response:

>Last Sunday, 501 for an 18m FITA, using the training bow still. >Came dead last (handicap) in the club indoor champs 2 weeks ago : ( >Arm still too sore for more than 6 arrows using my Hoyt GM >Missing out on practice too much!

You may want to consider dropping your limb weight.  When I injured my shoulder I dropped weight considerably.  I borrowed some club equipment and started shooing a 25# bow and then slowly worked my way back up to 40#.   Alex     __O        _-<,_       (_)/ (_)

Response:

Recurve Archer in need of advice

Question:

I have been involved with archery for around 2.5 years now, and in draw length). I have been shooting well with it, but there seems to be a lot of vibration – I use a single longrod (easton aluminium, tapered), and this does make a difference but there is still a lot.  I have added more twists to the string and this makes it smoother but not much difference in vibration. Should I buy new stablilizers and/or a v-bar and twins?  I  have considered buying a beiter centralizer – but are they worth it? However, I am still using my same arrows (easton jazz) that I used with my old rolan bow which had a 22lbs d.w.  Could this be the problem, that I need new arrows?

Response:

Tom, You definitely need to get arrows that match your current draw weight.  They will fly better and will help with the vibration reduction.  Of course I am assuming that your original Jazz shafts were the correct spine for your 22# bow and so will not be the correct spine for a 32# draw.  A match between the arrow spine and draw weight is critical!  Easton spine charts will help you with this. I’m really not qualified to help you with stabilizers.  That said, I too began life with an Easton tapered 36" long rod.   I recently acquired a 33" Centralizer on which I have attached a 1 oz. weight to the end.  I have experienced a reduction in vibration and steadier "aim".  I don’t know if it is because of the design of the Centralizer or the fact that the Centralizer is much heavier, or both. I do know that you can use short Doinkers, front and back, top and the bottom,  to reduce vibration and balance the bow.  Also, I have seen Simms limb savers mounted on the limbs and risers for some recurve bows. Hopefully someone more qualified to help will come along.  In the mean, time have you read Murray Elliot’s Archers Reference http://www.archersreference.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/.  If not, you will find it helpful in many ways, and it’ a free download. Norm

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have been involved with archery for around 2.5 years now, and in > draw length). > I have been shooting well with it, but there seems to be a lot of > vibration – I use a single longrod (easton aluminium, tapered), and > this does make a difference but there is still a lot.  I have added > more twists to the string and this makes it smoother but not much > difference in vibration. > Should I buy new stablilizers and/or a v-bar and twins?  I  have > considered buying a beiter centralizer – but are they worth it? > However, I am still using my same arrows (easton jazz) that I used > with my old rolan bow which had a 22lbs d.w.  Could this be the > problem, that I need new arrows?

Response:

Forgot to paste this link http://www.tenzone.u-net.com/.  his is just one of many many good sources on the net.  Poke around there, stabs are in the equipment section (surprise!).  Also, look at http://www.texasarchery.org/L1/DocumentsRecords.htm, there is a load of good stuff Ron Carmichael has accumulated, wrote and stole (just kidding, it’s all legal and on the "up and up" with acknowledgements<G>) or otherwise acquired. There, you have 3 of the most useful links in my Favorites folder:-) Norm

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have been involved with archery for around 2.5 years now, and in > draw length). > I have been shooting well with it, but there seems to be a lot of > vibration – I use a single longrod (easton aluminium, tapered), and > this does make a difference but there is still a lot.  I have added > more twists to the string and this makes it smoother but not much > difference in vibration. > Should I buy new stablilizers and/or a v-bar and twins?  I  have > considered buying a beiter centralizer – but are they worth it? > However, I am still using my same arrows (easton jazz) that I used > with my old rolan bow which had a 22lbs d.w.  Could this be the > problem, that I need new arrows?

Response:

Tips on stuff

Question:

> Amen Brian. I believe that i am open to cirtisism, i can take it, and > well….i think i’m a very nice guy heheh, but i spose thats not really > for me to decide! > I have a gig tonight with them, and if at some point we’re all in the band > room, i’ll take that chance to go over it with them definatly. I’ll tell ya > how it all goes!

Not at a gig! Do it at practice! Gigs are for the audience. Practice is for the band.

Response:

Hello Cris Yes I’m from Brasil, but from Sao Paulo (nobody is perfect It is a coincidence, most people I know from Brasil don’t use the usenet. Perhaps we can chat now and then about stuff, like I said, I am currently living in Germany, and picked up bass again after a 11 year break. Sooooo happy I did this!!! I found out I have a neighbour here that is also from rio and plays guitar, we are going to turn my drum maschine on and jam a little now and then. Um grande abra

Tuning down compound draw weight

Question:

I purchased a Hoyt Banshee for my oldest son that needs to be tuned down in draw weight. I know to do both limbs equally, but I’m getting a little nervous because I have backed out the allen screws 4 full turns & I don’t want to back out too far & have the limbs detach. Question: Do the allen-bolts have a stop so that I cant back-out too far? (I need to reduce the draw some more and I have 5/16" limb-riser-gap right now.) I don’t have a pro-shop to go to in my area. Sincerely nervous, — Bruce.

Response:

> I purchased a Hoyt Banshee for my oldest son that needs > to be tuned down in draw weight. I know to do both limbs > equally, but I’m getting a little nervous because I have backed >out the allen screws 4 full turns & I don’t want to back out too > far & have the limbs detach. > Question: Do the allen-bolts have a stop so that I cant > back-out too far? (I need to reduce the draw some more and > I have 5/16" limb-riser-gap right now.) I don’t have a pro-shop > to go to in my area.

The allen bolts do NOT have a stop. If you keep undoing them, eventually the thing will just spring apart. I think you can take a Banshee up to 5 full turns and still have enough to shoot on. See if you can find some fishing scales – they go up to about 100# for those ambitious people and draw the bow with them. This will give you an idea of draw weight, and thus how far you have left to go before Bad Things (TM) happen. 7om

Response:

I know very little about compound bow adustments, but is it really safe to adjust a limb under tension like that when you don’t know for sure where the "oops" point is?   I understand that such a bow has a lot of stored energy, that if released while you are working on it, can be fatal. (and didn’t someone very well know in Britain suffer demise as a result of a cable loosing unexpectedly  while in a press on a compound?)   I would counsel taking this bow to a shop rather than seeking to loosen the bolts when you are unsure of how many turns you have left.  If that is out of the question, I would FIRST tighten down the bolt as far as possible, and then back off  from this "known" starting point while I was NOT over the bow, but to the side or even below.  Being a prudent person, (ie, coward)  I would also probably crouch down under the kitchen table while  I  reach around the top to unscrew it.<G>   Use a video camera or a mirror or something to see how many turns I’m backing it off. <RBG> TexARC bravado: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I purchased a Hoyt Banshee for my oldest son that needs >to be tuned down in draw weight. I know to do both limbs >equally, but I’m getting a little nervous because I have backed >out the allen screws 4 full turns & I don’t want to back out too >far & have the limbs detach. >Question: Do the allen-bolts have a stop so that I cant >back-out too far? (I need to reduce the draw some more and >I have 5/16" limb-riser-gap right now.) I don’t have a pro-shop >to go to in my area. >The allen bolts do NOT have a stop. If you keep undoing them, eventually the >thing will just spring apart. I think you can take a Banshee up to 5 full >turns and still have enough to shoot on. See if you can find some fishing >scales – they go up to about 100# for those ambitious people and draw >the bow with them. This will give you an idea of draw weight, and thus how >far you have left to go before Bad Things (TM) happen. >7om

Response:

For a compound with good cables.  The cables will hold the bow together in event of catastrophic limb failure.  I’ve seen compounds break on the firing line.  They fold up and drop straight down in a heap.  As the limb bolts are backed out the pressure on the limbs are decreasing so when and if the bolts pop out it won’t be with a lot of force.  I would mark the limbs, unstring the bow, and back a limb bolt out to see where you are.  It used to be one turn equals 2

Custom FITA recurve limbs

Question:

Does anyone know of a source for custom recurve limbs for a hoyt GM riser?  I have been out of the sport for a while (okay the GM was the only choice then)and I’m looking to replace all of my equipment. I have hoyt foam limbs now but they’re showing their age… Thanks,

Response:

> Does anyone know of a source for custom recurve limbs for a hoyt GM > riser?  I have been out of the sport for a while (okay the GM was the > only choice then)and I’m looking to replace all of my equipment. I > have hoyt foam limbs now but they’re showing their age… > Thanks,

Border will build very nice limbs to your spec. They’ll do pretty much any draw weight, and up to 72" limbs on 25" riser. And the best bit, if you go for the custom builds, you specify the weight at your drawlength. E.G. 51# at 32.5". (Real example. He’s a freak.) 7om

Response:

>Does anyone know of a source for custom recurve limbs for a hoyt GM >riser?  I have been out of the sport for a while (okay the GM was the >only choice then)and I’m looking to replace all of my equipment. I >have hoyt foam limbs now but they’re showing their age…

Why do you need custom?  Right now there are so many limbs in various price ranges that will fit a GM that I can’t see why you would need custom limbs.   Alex     __O        _-<,_       (_)/ (_)

Response:

Fully support this The Hoyt limb fiximg design has become almost universal and most suppliers have some or all of their limbs as ‘International’ fitting ie Hoyt! so : Anything is available from $100 Korean Starter limbs to see what your needs are to $600 top of the range Carbon Multi layer Limbs. And the top spec Korean limbs ( Win & Win or Samick) are very good as are Hoyts and the independants Border and KG ! And Border WILL make you some very nice custom limbs for the price, as will KG. If you want to see the possibilities why not look at http://www.altservices.co.uk/ http://www.bowsports.com/ http://www.quicks.com/ http://www.borderbows.com/ http://www.kgarchery.com/ My list is UK oriented but they will ship overseas Good luck Dave

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Does anyone know of a source for custom recurve limbs for a hoyt GM >riser?  I have been out of the sport for a while (okay the GM was the >only choice then)and I’m looking to replace all of my equipment. I >have hoyt foam limbs now but they’re showing their age… > Why do you need custom?  Right now there are so many limbs in various price > ranges that will fit a GM that I can’t see why you would need custom limbs. > Alex     __O >        _-<,_ >       (_)/ (_)

Response:

>Why do you need custom?  Right now there are so many limbs in various price >ranges that will fit a GM that I can’t see why you would need custom limbs.  

As Tom correctly pointed out, Vladimir may have very specific draw weight or length requirements. Border is the place to get that done. I was gutted, however, when they refused to make a set of limbs for my stylist ( Glad I switched to the Radian though ;o)

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